Playa del Carmen Cruise Guide

The small town of Playa del Carmen on the Yucatan coast is the geographic and cultural center of the Riviera Maya, one of Mexico's fastest-growing destinations. It is enjoyable for what it is, but perhaps more for what it's not. It's not Cancun, the major resort area that's about an hour's drive north. For those who find Cancun too large and glossy and too lacking in local character, Playa del Carmen is the cure: cozy, funky and quite international, though still with a Mexican flair.

But Playa del Carmen is changing quickly and its future is uncertain: Large numbers of new hotels, boutiques and restaurants have opened in recent years, and the town's lovely beach is becoming sandwiched between large-scale developments that weren't part of the town's original vision. The Playacar complex just south of the Playa del Carmen town center now includes more than a dozen luxury resorts, with further development continuing all along the Riviera Maya.

These days, Playa del Carmen's main pedestrian walkways are often jammed with tourists and aggressive salespeople trying to lure them into stores and restaurants. Lovers of the relaxed vibe shouldn't give up on Playa just yet, however. Despite the town's growing popularity, the pace remains delightfully slow much of the time. And the core of this pleasant town is still decidedly homegrown: During the day, the central plaza is full of local youngsters playing games, and in the evenings it takes on a festive air, as seemingly everyone in town gathers for a stroll.

Some cruise ships arriving at Playa use smaller boats to tender passengers to the ferry terminal, which is conveniently located near the town's central plaza. After they drop off their passengers, the cruise ships often continue to Cozumel. Passengers who stop at Playa return to their ship by taking the ferry from Playa to Cozumel. Some cruise ships dock at Puerto Calica, a deepwater port about 5 mi/8 km south of Playa. There's not a lot to see around Puerto Calica, but there are buses and taxis waiting outside the terminal. Expect to pay about US$15 for a taxi ride into Playa.

Consider signing up for the excursions offered by your ship. They may not be the least expensive way to see the sights, but you won't have to waste your limited time making arrangements yourself—and you won't have to worry about missing the ship. Shore excursions—and their prices—vary from cruise line to cruise line. Typical tours may offer snorkeling or golf in town, or trips to Cancun, Xcaret, Xel-Ha, Tulum, Coba or Chichen Itza. Check with your ship's shore-excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information.