Small, crowded and struggling to attain a bit of prosperity, the city is undergoing improvements and does have some sights of historic interest—enough to merit a day's tour. Some old frame houses on stilts are being fixed up, and several Victorian mansions have been converted into small bed-and-breakfasts with restaurants. Even so, Belize's biggest city has a long way to go before it will be considered charming. If you're doing more than passing through, expect to encounter a town that's rough around the edges. Crime, though not rampant, is a concern; use the same common sense you would in any bigger city and always take a taxi at night.
Most visitors who overnight there stay in the northern part of the city in Fort George, considered the nicest neighborhood. The area has a small lighthouse and a park with good views of the water. To reach the heart of the city, you'll cross the Swing Bridge, one of the few manually operated bridges still in use. Nearby is the Belize Commercial Center, which has produce and fish markets as well as arts-and-crafts stands. Farther south is the Bliss Institute, which contains a library and several Maya exhibits and artifacts; St. John's Cathedral, the oldest Anglican cathedral in Central America; and the House of Culture, formerly Government House (built in 1814 with displays related to Belize's colonial history and grounds that are home to many birds). The Museum of Belize is built in a historic prison and often features Maya exhibits from the Archeological Department in Belmopan as well as historical artifacts from Belize City.
Excursions to all parts of the country can be booked in Belize City. Travelers wanting to get to Ambergris Caye or Caye Caulker by boat should go to the Caye Caulker Water Taxi Terminal near the Swing Bridge, where vessels leave about every hour all day long. (Going by boat can be wonderful, but be prepared to get sick and wet in rough weather.) The Belize Zoo, on the road to Belmopan, can easily be reached by taxi or bus. Although you can see many of the country's indigenous animals in the wild (if you are patient), we didn't get to see all of them until we visited the zoo. And we were pleasantly surprised to find that the zoo is really a kind of wildlife preserve, with more than 100 animals residing in spacious habitats lush with vegetation. (The jaguar's enclave is so dense with flora that we waited for several minutes before the sleek cat appeared, posed for a few pictures and then melted back into the greenery.) The zoo is a must-see if your interests include native animals. Morning is the best time to visit; afternoons can be steamy.
