Cameroon Travel Guide

Cameroon is often referred to as "Africa in miniature" because in many ways it is a microcosm of the continent: It has mountains, volcanic highlands, coastal plains, jungle rivers, rain forest and savanna. Its jagged boundaries, drawn up arbitrarily by German colonizers during the 19th century, enclose more than 150 different ethnic groups, scattered around five distinct geographical regions. In recent years, corruption and poverty have prevented the country from taking advantage of its natural resources. Yet while Cameroon reflects much of what Africa has to offer, it's a bit too rough around the edges to be a good introduction to the continent. For adventurous, experienced African travelers, however, it offers a remarkable range of attractions.

History

Cameroon had a difficult coming of age. After the Germans were defeated in World War I, the colony was divided between the British and the French. Both colonies achieved independence in 1960. A year later, they formed a loose federation, with capitals in Yaounde and Buea. The federation proved difficult to manage, however, and in 1972 the two Cameroons were finally united as a republic.

In its first years as a new nation, Cameroon appeared to be a model for developing African countries: a stable, multicultural society, with a well-maintained infrastructure and a high standard of living. The only thing lacking was democracy—the country had always been under strict one-party rule, and in the years after independence, tensions slowly developed. The ruling party, headed by Paul Biya, finally agreed to hold democratic elections in 1992, and although the opposition was heavily intimidated—six members were shot and its rallies were dispersed by riot police—Cameroonians for the first time were allowed to choose who would run their country.

The ruling party's victory did little to ease the pressures building in the country, however. Despite its rich resources, Cameroon began to languish economically and had to be rescued by the International Monetary Fund. Biya was re-elected again in 1997 and 2004.

Snapshot

Game parks, spectacular jungle scenery, mountain resorts, friendly people, coffee plantations, African art and local handicrafts are among the chief attractions of Cameroon.

Cameroon will appeal to experienced, adventurous travelers who love African history, culture and game parks and who don't mind the risks associated with political instability. Though some modern services are available, expect the delays and inconveniences that typically occur in developing countries.

Potpourri

Cameroon has an extra currency: beer-bottle caps. When cash is in short supply, people pay for taxis and food with bottle caps. The catch is that the bottle tops have to be special tops—developed as a promotion by local beer companies—that can be exchanged for a free beer.

The Indomitable Lions (Cameroon's soccer team) are a source of great national pride.

Among the Bamileke people of western Cameroon, a shaved head traditionally indicates a recent death in the family.

Mt. Cameroon is an active volcano. It has erupted twice since 1999.

Georges Collinet, longtime host of the popular (U.S.) National Public Radio program AfroPop Worldwide, is from Bitye, Cameroon.

You'll hear modern African pop music in discos, cafes and bars. At the Hotel Meridien in Douala and in other discos, this music takes over very late at night after a round of more traditional European music. Only then do the local African nightclub-goers arrive and liven up the scene. Consult the hotel concierge for these hours.

Some 1,700 people were killed in 1986 when an enormous cloud of carbon dioxide wafted out of Lake Nyos in northwest Cameroon. Scientists believe carbon dioxide is seeping into and becoming trapped within Lake Nyos from underground springs. Area residents have always believed the crater lake to be inhabited by spirits.

Shopping

Cameroon is a center of African wood sculpture—shop for masks and other wood carvings (some with glass beads). If you're interested in buying African sculpture, first visit a museum with an African collection or get a library book about African art to familiarize yourself with what's available. No matter what the salesperson says, don't be fooled into thinking you're getting an original art treasure: Everything is an imitation of objects once used in traditional ceremonies. (That doesn't mean you shouldn't consider purchasing what's available—many of today's copies are nicely executed—and bargains, to boot.) Other locally made objects include pottery, leather, copper statues, engraved abbia stones, batiks, brassware, pipes, carved and painted calabashes and baskets. Tie-dyed material can be bought by the yard or made up into dresses and shirts in the local markets. "Friping," or shopping for secondhand clothes from Western countries, is a popular pastime in Cameroon, and you'll see lots of old but wearable items for sale in local markets. If you're not shopping in a Western-style store, be prepared to bargain. Generally speaking, the shopping is better in Douala than in Yaounde, but most items are less expensive in smaller regional centers.

Shopping Hours: Monday-Friday 7:30 am-noon and 2:30-6 pm. Hours may vary from store to store.

Day By Day

A minimum of one week is required to see Cameroon. We suggest the following as a basic itinerary:

Day 1—Arrive Douala.

Day 2—Drive to Foumban in the morning, stopping in Bandjoun on the way. Overnight in Bafoussam.

Day 3—Drive to Bamenda and visit Bafut. Overnight in Bamenda.

Day 4—Drive to Buea, stopping at Ekom Falls along the way.

Day 5—Drive to Korup National Park and spend the night there.

Day 6—Korup National Park.

Day 7—Drive to Limbe and lounge on black-sand beaches.

Day 8—Return to Douala and depart Cameroon.

If time allows, rather than returning to Douala on Day 8, consider the following:

Day 8—Fly to Maroua in the Extreme North province. Tour Maroua and overnight there.

Day 9—Drive through the Mandara Mountains via Mabas and Djingliya to Rhumsiki.

Day 10—Spend the day in Rhumsiki and return to Maroua.

Day 11—Fly from Maroua to Douala and depart Cameroon.

Adventurous travelers who have no time pressures may want to take the train from Yaounde to N'gaoundere (and overnight there) before going on by car to the Extreme North. If it's not possible to travel on the days the train runs, go by car with a private driver (it will take at least two days, but it's worth it). You'll pass over the Adamaoua Plateau and through the Mandara Mountains.

When in the south, you might consider a few days on the beach at Kribi. Travelers pressed for time can fly to N'gaoundere and rent a car and driver there to visit the game parks and other northern points of interest. You may also arrange to depart from Douala by road or air, bypassing Yaounde.

Dining Overview

Try some of the delicious fish dishes and the excellent grilled chicken. Cameroon has tasty street food for the strong of stomach: dishes include ndole (a hot green sauce) and njamojamo (greens). Most of the restaurant food is Continental, tending toward French and Italian. The fare at restaurants serving local-style food is quite reasonably priced, but if you're eating at a Continental or Asian restaurant, be prepared to pay dearly.

Overview

Cameroon is a developing but relatively stable country with limited facilities, extreme weather conditions and a notoriously corrupt political climate.

Civil unrest sometimes occurs, and the authorities' response can be violent. In February 2008 rioting in Douala spread to Yaounde and some other provinces. In November 2007, security forces fired on a crowd of people in Kumba who were protesting the arrest of four high school students.

Banditry, carjacking and street crime are also serious security threats.

Overview

High-risk Areas
Although Cameroon and Nigeria have reached an agreement on the future of the Bakassi peninsula, local feelings are sensitive and there have been recent clashes between militants and troops.

Because of banditry and carjackings, the borders with Central African Republic and Chad should be considered hazardous.

For the same reasons, you should avoid the Meiganga-Ngaoundere road to the Belel area. Exercise extreme caution if traveling on any other route between the north and south of the country, especially the eastern route through Garoua-Boulai.

Maintain a high level of security awareness in the main cities of Yaounde, Douala and Bamenda, where the risk of armed robbery is high.

Political/social/economic conditions

President Paul Biya has held office since 1982, and he was re-elected by a wide margin in October 2004. His ruling party, Democratic Rally of the Cameroonian People, won 152 of the 180 national assembly seats in elections in July 2007, in which opposition parties alleged massive fraud.

In early January 2008, Biya again angered the opposition when he hinted that he might change a clause in the constitution that limits the head of state to two terms in office. The amendment would open the way for him to run for president again in 2011, should he choose to do so. He had previously revised the constitution, extending the presidential term of office from five to seven years and now said that he was merely responding to popular demand. Opposition parties described such an initiative as an attempt at manipulating public opinion and a threat to the peace.

Cameroon has one of the highest literacy rates in Africa. However, its development is hampered by a need for growing defense and internal security expenditures and by widespread corruption. Because of its oil resources and favorable agricultural conditions, the country has one of the best-endowed primary commodity economies in sub-Saharan Africa. It also faces many of the serious problems facing other underdeveloped countries, such as a top-heavy civil service and a generally unfavorable climate for business enterprise.

Nevertheless, Cameroon has one of the most diversified economies in Africa, with vast agricultural, forestry and energy (oil, gas and hydroelectricity) assets. Petroleum has been exported since the 1970s and now accounts for 40% of export earnings. Although production has leveled off and will be depleted in the current fields in about 10 years, the June 2006 signing of the Bakassi Peninsula agreement opened up enormous potential. The government already had signed a new offshore reserves exploration agreement with Total in March 2006.

The oil pipeline from Chad to Cameroon ports also has boosted the country's prospects for growth. Although Cameroon's agricultural exports are subject to the vagaries of the international market, a stable exchange rate and manageable inflation are maintained through its membership in the Franc Zone.

In October 2000, Cameroon became eligible for debt relief under the Heavily Indebted Poor Countries Initiative. The HIPC completion point was achieved in May 2006 after several lengthy delays. These delays were related to concerns about the government's financial management, but that has been addressed in part by a series of reforms, including moves against corruption. Achievement of HIPC has led to significant debt relief for Cameroon.

Political/social/economic conditions

Separatist movements
Language-based tensions between two English-speaking provinces and eight French-speaking provinces have led to calls for secession and are said to have sparked violent incidents in the 1990s. These tensions remain today, and the potential for violence still exists.

Political/social/economic conditions

Border and regional issues
As a result of confusion about colonial boundary settlements, the border between Cameroon and Nigeria in the Bakassi Peninsula in the Gulf of Guinea had never been defined clearly. In appreciation for Cameroon's neutrality during the 1967-70 Biafran civil war, a Nigerian military leader made an apparent gift of the region to Cameroon. In 1994, fighting flared up between the two countries after it became apparent that the peninsula held up to 10% of the world's oil and gas reserves.

In October 2002, a World Court ruling based upon a 1913 treaty between former colonial powers Britain and Germany awarded the disputed territory to Cameroon and ordered Nigeria to withdraw its military, police and administrative personnel from the area. In June 2006, Nigeria agreed to hand over the peninsula to Cameroon. Nigerian troops began withdrawing from the region shortly afterward. There was further progress in March 2008, when the two nations agreed on a maritime border.

Under the terms of the deal, there would be a two-year transition period for the Nigerian administration to leave. Nigerian nationals will be able to continue to live there for four years after Cameroon takes control and can stay after that if they wish.

Most of those who live in Bakassi, however, are Nigerians who are strongly opposed to coming under Cameroonian jurisdiction and said they would fight for independence if Bakassi were turned over to Cameroon. A group calling itself the Bakassi Movement for Self Determination said that it would press for an independent Bakassi state.

In November 2007, the Nigerian senate approved a motion declaring that the agreement to give the peninsula to Cameroon had been illegal and that the territory could not be ceded without changing the constitution. The government rejected the proposal and said the planned handover would go ahead.

The vote came at a time of heightened tensions in the area. In an incident several days earlier, unknown Nigerian guerillas attacked a Cameroon post on the peninsula, killing 21 soldiers. Several more similar clashes have been reported since then--in July 2008, Cameroon security forces killed a dozen Nigerian Bakassi militants.

Nevertheless, the handover occurred as planned in August 2008, in line with the ICJ 2002 ruling. In late October 2008, armed gunmen in speedboats kidnapped and threatened to kill 10 crew members, including seven French nationals, from an oil vessel off the Bakassi peninsula.

Resolution of another disputed area near Lake Chad has been completed. Nigeria handed over control of 32 border villages in December 2003, and Cameroon withdrew from the town of Dambure around the same time.

The border with Congo is closed, making travel overland across the border impossible.

Political/social/economic conditions

Religious and sectarian issues
Tensions between Christians and Muslims flare occasionally. The government has created a special joint task force to conduct raids against those suspected of encouraging religious extremism.

Political/social/economic conditions

Civil unrest
Civil unrest sometimes occurs, and the authorities' response can be violent. In late February 2008 troops opened fire on rioters in Yaounde, Douala and Bamenda--up to two dozen deaths were reported. In November 2007, security forces fired on a crowd of people in Kumba who were protesting the arrest of four high school students. The students themselves had been demonstrating over a two-week-long power cut.

Avoid demonstrations, protests and other large public gatherings, especially if participants' passions seem to be aroused.

Political/social/economic conditions

Institutional corruption
Transparency International, the Berlin-based organization that advocates good governance and transparent management, regularly has rated Cameroon as one of the most corrupt countries in the world.

Political/social/economic conditions

Bribes
Bribes
Be patient and civil and avoid provoking a confrontation with any official you encounter. Try to deal only with the person who seems to be in charge. If you're accused of some misdeed, ask if you can pay the "fine" on the spot. Overtly offering a bribe could make your situation worse. Instead, offer to make a "donation" to the official's organization for fuel, expenses or other needs.

Political/social/economic conditions

Human-rights abuses
Despite some improvements in recent years, security forces reportedly have committed unlawful killings with impunity, as well as acts of torture and mistreatment of prisoners. Human-rights monitors, opposition politicians, journalists and others have been arbitrarily detained incommunicado for long periods without trial. Freedom of speech, movement and the press are restricted.

Homosexual behavior is illegal in Cameroon and carries penalties that include up to five years in prison. In May 2008, Amnesty International said that about a dozen men had been arrested in 2007 for allegedly practicing homosexuality and one gay man was released who had reportedly been detained for two years without charge.

Violence and discrimination against women and indigenous pygmies have continued, as well, and there have been reports of slavery and trafficking of children for labor.

Political/social/economic conditions

Additional information
As a first step in establishing a presence in the Cameroonian market, business travelers should contract for the services of a local agent. In recent years, business travelers have experienced difficulty in obtaining adequate services from Cameroon's banking sector. Caution is required in pursuing joint ventures and licensing arrangements.

Crime

In the cities, the risk of street and residential crime is high, and criminals are known to target areas frequented by tourists. Historically, criminal activity increases during holiday periods. In January 2007, a French woman was shot dead during the course of an attempted robbery.

Police efforts to crack down on criminals have been harsh but largely ineffective. Don't move about at night, especially if you're alone and/or female, and avoid displays of affluence. In Yaounde, avoid all isolated and poor areas, especially La Briquetterie, Mokolo and Mvog-Ada. If confronted, don't resist--criminals will use violence, so just hand over any valuables.

Crime

Petty crime
Street crime is endemic in cities, and people thought to be wealthy are routinely targeted. Petty theft is common on trains and all forms of public transport. There is an increasing circulation of counterfeit currency in the country.

Crime

Violent crime
Armed banditry is a serious problem throughout all 10 provinces of Cameroon, but it's most common on roads between the cities of Garoua and Kouserie in the northern provinces, as well as Adamaoua province. Besides committing robberies, these bandits reportedly have abducted children for ransom. Travel only during daylight hours and go in convoy.

To curb banditry, security personnel at random checkpoints may require people to show their passports, residence cards, driving licenses and/or vehicle registrations. There have been numerous reports of police and other officials demanding bribes at these checkpoints, as well as at airports.

There were a number of violent attacks on foreigners in September 2007 which resulted in the death of two foreign nationals in separate incidents. Several expatriates robbed in a restaurant in Yaounde in April 2007.

There had been many earlier reports of violence against foreigners. In January 2006, a U.S. family was robbed by a gang of armed men while visiting a deserted section of beach near Limbe and Buea. Two Swiss nationals were attacked by highway bandits near Wum in March 2006 and robbed of computers, cameras, cell phones, travel documents and cash. There were more than 20 incidents of robbery and three rapes committed against the European community in Douala in 2005.

Reports of carjackings remain high, particularly in Yaounde, Douala, Kribi and Maroua, with four-wheel-drive and double-cab pickup trucks the favored targets; thieves most desire Toyota Landcruisers and Mitsubishi Pajeros.

Most carjackings are directed at vehicles with a single occupant, so avoid driving alone. In some instances, thieves have driven their victims for miles/kilometers in an effort to deactivate antitheft devices, so it's safer to remove the antitheft devices and simply give up the vehicle if confronted. Carjackers will not hesitate to use violence if a victim resists.

Crime

Car hijacking/carjacking
To reduce the risk of carjacking, avoid driving alone, especially at night. Keep an eye on persons and vehicles in the vicinity of your vehicle at all times, particularly when stopped at intersections or crosswalks. When driving, try to stay near the center lanes when possible. Always try to leave sufficient maneuvering room between your car and the cars beside and in front of you, especially when stopping in traffic. Check your rear-view mirror regularly to ensure you are not being followed. If you are, do not return to your hotel/residence. Proceed instead to a public place such as the front of a hotel or a police station; get out of the vehicle and seek assistance. Keep your windows rolled up and doors locked at all times. If you encounter a roadblock that does not appear to be manned by uniformed police or you notice a disturbance on the road ahead, turn around and use an alternate route. To minimize the chance of being trapped by a car pulling up behind you, do not pull into a driveway. Be prepared to drive away if you notice persons approaching your vehicle. Plan before you start your trip where you will go to seek assistance if a car attempts to block you or if you are prevented from reaching your destination.

Crime

Armed robbery/muggings
In cities where armed robbery is a problem, keep valuables in hotel safes when available. Avoid displays of affluence, such as wearing obviously expensive jewelry or designer clothing. Keep cell phones and other electronic devices hidden from view. Carry only the cash or credit cards that will be needed on each outing. Avoid deserted, remote or poorly lit areas. If the worst happens and you are accosted, most authorities advise cooperating with the robbers--resisting can provoke a violent response.

Crime

Unauthorized roadblocks
If you encounter a roadblock that does not appear to be manned by uniformed police or you notice a disturbance on the road ahead, turn around and use an alternate route. To minimize the chance of being trapped by a car pulling up behind you, leave some space between your vehicle and the vehicle in front of you. Be prepared to drive away if you notice people approaching your vehicle. Plan before you start your trip where you will go to seek assistance if a car attempts to block you or if you are prevented from reaching your destination.

Crime

Kidnapping
In June 2007, bandits from Central African Republic crossed the border into Cameroon and kidnapped 16 people.

Crime

Police effectiveness
Police are thoroughly corrupt and should be avoided. Officers are poorly trained and poorly equipped, and many of them are as likely to perpetrate crimes as to prosecute them.

Crime

Bribes
Bribes
Be patient and civil and avoid provoking a confrontation with any official you encounter. Try to deal only with the person who seems to be in charge. If you're accused of some misdeed, ask if you can pay the "fine" on the spot. Overtly offering a bribe could make your situation worse. Instead, offer to make a "donation" to the official's organization for fuel, expenses or other needs.

Crime

Additional information
Recent local media reports have highlighted the growing number of acts of so-called jungle justice, reflecting the frustrations of a public that has lost faith in the police and judiciary. Suspects have been clubbed and burned to death by mobs within minutes of being apprehended for crimes that, in some cases, they had not committed.

Alarmed by the high incidence of lynching, the authorities have made radio broadcasts to try to persuade the population not to take the law into their own hands. Cameroonians are anxiously awaiting the implementation of a new criminal law aimed at speeding up police investigations and court trials.

Natural hazards

The Mont Cameroon volcano has been active as recently as 2000. Check conditions locally before climbing the mountain and avoid the Nyois and Monoun lakes, as toxic fumes have been building up on their bottoms. Carbon dioxide building up at the bottom of Lake Monoun erupted in 1984, killing 37 people in nearby towns. A similar but deadlier eruption at Lake Nyois in 1986 killed nearly 2,000.

Since then, the government has installed in each lake a fountain designed to disperse the gases before they reach dangerous levels. However, geologists hae said that erosion is threatening the dam that holds back Lake Nyois. Failure of the dam could be catastrophic, the experts said, releasing both water and toxic gas into surrounding valleys inhabited by more than 10,000 people.

Health & medical care

The level of health care in Cameroon is poor.

Health & medical care

Medical facilities
Medical facilities in Cameroon are very limited, with outdated equipment and shortages of trained personnel. Sanitation levels are low, even in the best hospitals. Although some medicines are available, you should take your own supplies of any needed medication. Medical insurance that covers emergency evacuation by air is essential.

Health & medical care

Diseases
Malaria is endemic, so see your doctor about preventive medications and take precautions against mosquito bites. Waterborne diseases, HIV/AIDS, meningitis and polio are also prevalent.

Cameroon experiences regular cholera outbreaks, particularly December-June. The areas most often affected are Douala city, Littoral province, and the West and South West provinces. There also have been cases in the capital, Yaounde.

Anthrax has been reported in primate populations in Cameroon. Do not touch any primates or eat any foods made from primate parts.

In March 2006, the H5NI strain of avian influenza was identified in a domestic duck that came from a poultry farm near the northern town of Maroua. No human infections have been reported. The risk to humans from avian influenza is very low.

Health & medical care

Avian influenza (bird flu)
At present there's no conclusive proof that avian flu can be transmitted from one human to another. Some health agencies are recommending that people visiting affected destinations should avoid direct contact with birds and ensure that any poultry products, including eggs, are fully cooked before eating them.

Health & medical care

Avoiding mosquito bites
Mosquitoes carry many serious illnesses, including dengue fever, malaria and West Nile virus. To prevent bites and avoid infection, reduce the amount of exposed skin by wearing long sleeves, long pants, socks and shoes when you're outdoors. Use insect repellent containing deet on exposed skin. Avoid outdoor activities from dusk to dawn, the time when mosquitoes are most active.

Health & medical care

Waterborne diseases
Waterborne diseases can cause a variety of serious health problems, including cholera, norovirus and amebiasis. In areas where chlorinated water is not available or where hygiene and sanitation are generally poor, you should consider both liquid water and ice unsafe. Stick to the following, which generally are considered safe: Beverages made with boiled water, such as tea and coffee; canned or bottled carbonated beverages; beer; and wine. It's usually safer to drink beverages directly from the bottle or can, but be sure to wipe off any water on the outside of the container. In areas where water may be contaminated, avoid brushing your teeth with tap water.

Transportation

The threat of banditry makes nighttime travel outside major cities very hazardous. Take current local advice from friends and colleagues or your embassy before setting out on any journey within the country.

Exercise extreme care if traveling on the Meiganga-Ngaoundere road, to the Belel area, or on any other route between the north and the south of the country, especially the eastern route through Garoua-Boulai.

Police have set up many checkpoints in an effort to crack down on banditry. However, police officers themselves often use these checkpoints as a means of collecting bribes, especially from anyone who doesn't have personal and/or vehicle paperwork in order.

Transportation

Road conditions
Both paved and unpaved roads are in poor condition and are mostly unsafe. In general, roads and vehicles are poorly maintained. During the rainy season (May-October), many roads are passable only with four-wheel-drive vehicles. There are few road and traffic signs. Livestock and pedestrians create constant road hazards, and road-safety rules are routinely ignored. Many drivers haven't had any formal training, and fake driver's licenses are common. Buses and logging trucks traveling at high speeds are a threat.

Transportation

Public transportation
Assaults on taxi passengers have been reported recently. The Hilton and Mont Febe hotels offer shuttle service from the airport. Use the shuttle or arrange to be met by someone, especially if your flight is arriving after dark.

Cameroon's transport ministry reports that more than 1,200 people die in road accidents every year, many through poor or careless driving. Avoid public buses. Two dozen people were killed and the same number injured in a triple bus crash in October 2007; a few days later several more died when a bus driver lost control while using his cell phone.

Transportation

Air travel
Mbang Airport has experienced two recent incidents of small aircraft being met on the tarmac by robbers with machetes and rifles who took valuables from the airplanes and then fled.

Cameroon Airlines, or CamAir, continues to experience severe financial difficulties. On several occasions, passengers have been left stranded, reportedly because insurance contracts for aircraft had not been renewed--many airplanes have had maintenance problems.

Douala airport is known for unusual and dangerous weather and atmospheric conditions. In May 2007, a Kenya Airways flight crashed shortly after take-off from the airport with a number of Westerners on board--there were no survivors.

Infrastructure

Facilities for travelers are limited. Credit cards are not widely accepted.

Travel precautions

No matter how safe you perceive a destination to be, it's important to use good judgment.

• Pay attention to local media.
  
• Avoid open displays of wealth, jewelry or other valuables. Safeguard travel documents such as passports and airline tickets.
  
• Avoid confrontations with locals.
  
• Avoid demonstrations and protests, especially if they appear political in nature.
  
• Don't permit people you don't know to enter your accommodations. Keep your door locked. Don't leave valuables in your room unless they can be locked in a safe.
  
• Avoid illegal drugs, and don't drink alcohol if its use is prohibited. Even if drinking is legal, don't overindulge.
  
• Be cautious of unsolicited offers of assistance from strangers.

In recent years, political terrorism has become a global phenomenon - an attack could occur with little warning anywhere in the world, even in destinations long regarded as safe. Travelers should keep themselves informed of developments that could affect their safety, no matter what their destination.

Personal Safety

The possibility of isolated acts of violence exists throughout the country. For travelers, this means you should avoid large demonstrations, even if they don't appear to be related to politics. Street crime is common in Douala and Yaounde. Also, check your money carefully—counterfeiters have been circulating false U.S. dollars and Central African Francs. Cameroon and Nigeria occasionally clash over their disputed border along the Bikassi Peninsula.

Bandits are a problem throughout Cameroon, including some tourist destinations and the Extreme North province. Carjackings in Douala and Yaounde are becoming more frequent, too. Hiring a reliable local guide is the best way to avoid being caught in an unsafe place. Do not travel anywhere at night. As you drive through the country, stop at all military checkpoints. Have your passport ready and available for inspection at any time. We suggest you show a photocopy of the passport first; show the original only if it's requested. Register with your embassy upon arrival.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Health

Decent hospitals and medical care are available in Yaounde. Clinics and very basic medical services can be found in the outlying regions. (U.S. and French dentists are available.) There is a pharmacy in Yaounde that stocks U.S. medicines, but we recommend that you take along all prescription and nonprescription medications needed for the trip. Before you go, consult your doctor about vaccinations against yellow fever, tetanus, typhoid, polio and hepatitis as well as antimalaria medication (chloroquine-resistant malaria is present throughout the country).

Sanitary conditions in most restaurants in Cameroon can pose problems for travelers. Most hot, freshly cooked food should be safe (especially if it's included on a package tour), but peel fresh fruit and raw vegetables before eating them, make sure meat is cooked thoroughly, avoid dairy products and assume the water is unsafe (stick with prepackaged or boiled drinks). Don't be lulled into letting your guard down about these precautions, even in deluxe surroundings.

When you're in Cameroon, don't set foot in fresh water—it may be contaminated with the parasite bilharzia, which can cause fatal liver problems. If you hang clothes outside to dry, make sure to iron them, as an insect called the tumbu fly lays eggs in moist cloth. (The eggs then hatch and the resulting larvae burrow into the skin when you don the clothes, causing a gruesome affliction called myiasis. Ironing kills any larvae in the cloth.)

Respiratory ailments can occur during the dry season, when there's lots of dust in the air. Don't walk barefoot—fungus infections and worms are easily contracted. The sun is very strong, so use sunscreen liberally and wear a hat. Don't forget to take along a pair of comfortable walking shoes.

For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Dos & Don'ts

Do try to take public transportation in Cameroon at least once for the cultural experience. It's a good way to meet local people.

Don't plan to spend much time in either Douala or Yaounde—they are crime ridden and lack the charm that pervades the rest of the country.

Don't take photos without asking first. Photos of government buildings are not allowed, and many of the buildings are unmarked. Your camera might be confiscated if you snap the wrong scene. Stop at the Ministry of Information and Culture in Yaounde to get the Cameroon Photography Regulations and a document stating that it's not necessary to have a permit to take general photos. You may have to show it outside of tourist areas (police occasionally harass those carrying cameras). Generally, carrying a camera will put some distance between you and Cameroonians.

Do change your money in Douala or Yaounde, because banks in small towns may not be able to exchange foreign currency. Don't exchange currency on the black market—it's illegal and dangerous.

Do register at the tourist office before hiking up Mt. Cameroon. Technically, you're supposed to hire a guide, but that rule is not strictly enforced (the path is lined with rocks painted white, so it's easy to stay on the trail). Wear sturdy hiking boots, and if you're staying overnight, take plenty of water and warm clothing.

Don't buy animal skins. They're usually poorly tanned, and the export of many kinds is prohibited (your purchase may be confiscated).

Do examine the bolts of cloth women use to make their wraps. The patterns range from stunning to campy (one we saw featured a repeated image of Queen Elizabeth).

Don't step into a prayer circle (a circle of rocks, often in front of a house).

Hotel Overview

Accommodations range from game-park lodges and deluxe, international-standard hotels to truly abysmal properties. For health, safety and convenience considerations, we recommend that you stay in the best property possible. The Meridien in Douala overlooks the port and is out of the hustle and bustle of downtown. The Mont Febe Sofitel in Yaounde offers beautiful views—it's not downtown, so if it isn't critical to stay in the city center, the rural setting can provide relief from the noise, traffic and dust of the city.

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Passports, visas, proof of onward passage and sufficient funds are required of Australian, Canadian, U.K. and U.S. citizens. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departing.

Population: 15,421,937.

Languages: English, French, indigenous languages..

Predominant Religions: Animist, Christian, Islamic..

Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 237, country code;

Banking Hours

Monday-Friday 7:30-11:30 am and 2:30-4:30 pm. Try to get to the bank well before closing because you will often find long lines of people ahead of you.

Tipping

Tipping is generally not necessary or expected in Cameroon. If you decide a situation deserves an exception, tip 10%.

Weather

Because of Cameroon's varied topography, no one time is perfect for visiting the whole country. We prefer December-March, because that period is generally the driest nationwide and most of the game parks are open (some are closed April-November). The rainy months of April and May set the stage for the high humidity and soaring temperatures in June and July. The humidity and heat are joined by yet more rain in August and September. When we were last in Douala in October, it was still raining every night (though days were clear). The rains inevitably taper off in November. Bring a sweater if you're going to higher elevations, where it can be cool—temperatures in the 50s F/10-15 C, or even colder, are not uncommon in the highlands.

Transportation

Douala Airport (DLA) is 3 mi/5 km south of the city. Yaounde Airport (YAO) is 2 mi/3 km south of the capital. Cameroon Airlines flies from Douala and Yaounde to many towns within the country.

There is rail service between many major towns, though we don't recommend it except to hardy travelers (it's usually a long, crowded and mostly uncomfortable trip). But if you're up to it, the train that runs the 600 mi/965 km (more than double the straight-line distance) from Douala to N'gaoundere is rather interesting—the scenery and people make it worthwhile. (We spent nearly 20 hours on this train, and though we would never do it again, we're glad we did it once).

Bus travel is also for adventurous travelers—it's uncomfortable, but it's often the only way to get to some of the more interesting parts of Cameroon.

Taxis de brousse—Peugeot 504 station wagons that carry several passengers on a fixed route—are the best means of intercity travel. Trucks for hire also take passengers to various destinations. Taxis within the major towns are dependable, but be sure to agree on the fare before getting in the cab. Many international flights arrive and depart at strange hours of the night and early morning, so try to reserve a taxi or other transportation before arrival.

It's best to take an escorted tour or hire a car with an English-speaking guide on a first visit to Cameroon. If you drive carefully and alertly, however, a trip without a driver is manageable if you are staying in the vicinity of Limbe or Buea.

For More Information

Tourist Offices

Cameroon does not have tourist offices in Australia, Canada or the the U.K.

Cameroonian Embassies

Canada: High Commission of Cameroon, 170 Clemow Ave., Ottawa, ON K1S 2B4. Phone 613-236-1522. Fax 613-236-3885. E-mail cameroon@comnet.ca.

U.K.: High Commission of Cameroon, 84 Holland Park, London W11 3SB. Phone 20-7727-0771. Fax 20-7792-9353.

U.S.: Embassy of Cameroon, 2349 Massachusetts Ave. N.W., Washington, DC 20008. Phone 202-265-8790. Fax 202-387-3826.

Cameroon does not have diplomatic representation in Australia.

Foreign Embassies Serving Cameroon

Australia is represented by its embassy in Nigeria: 2 Ozumba Mbadiwe Ave., Victoria Island, Lagos. Phone 234-1-261-8875. Fax 234-1-261-8703. E-mail ahclagos@hyperia.com.

Canadian High Commission, Immeuble Stamatiades, Place de l'Hôtel de Ville, Yaounde. Phone 232-311. Fax 221-090. E-mail yunde@dfait-maeci.gc.ca.

British High Commission, Avenue Winston Churchill, Yaounde. Phone 220-545. Fax 220-148. E-mail BHC@yaounde.mail.fco.gov.uk.

U.S. Embassy, Rue Nachtigal, Yaounde. Phone 234-014. Fax 230-753. There is a U.S. Embassy office in Douala. Phone 425-331. Fax 427-790.

Additional Reading

Travels in West Africa by Mary Kingsley (Phoenix Press). The Victorian explorer's account of her travels in west and central Africa.

The Innocent Anthropologist: Notes from a Mud Hut by Nigel Barley (Waveland Press). An anthropologist's humorous look at his experiences in northern Cameroon.

Your Madness, Not Mine: Stories of Cameroon by Makuchi (Ohio University Press). Short pieces of fiction about women in Cameroon.