Carriacou Island Travel Guide

The hilly island of Carriacou (pronounced carry-uh-COO), northeast of Grenada, reminds us of the Caribbean of years ago: The countryside is still pristine and the beaches uncrowded. You could probably walk the entire island in about five hours—and that, in our opinion, is one of the best ways to see it.

On Carriacou, islanders go about their business—fishing, farming and building wooden boats—seemingly undisturbed by tourists.

Hillsborough, the main town on Carriacou, is about a mile/kilometer long and three streets wide. Sleepy, old-fashioned sundry stores and shingled houses with stone foundations line Main Street, where several former warehouses occupying prime beachfront real estate await renovation into tourist-oriented businesses. There are a few shops along Main Street to browse through. You can also stroll down to the pier to see container ships deliver produce, mail and household goods.

Historic Sites

The Hillsborough Cemetery, which is up the hill from Barclays Bank, contains tombstones dating back to the early 1800s. Many have unusual inscriptions. North of Hillsborough is the Belair Estate, the ruins of an old plantation and sugar mill. You can get great views from this high point. Gun Point, the northernmost point of the island, is named after an 18th-century gun, aimed north toward St. Vincent and the Grenadines, that was uncovered there.

Museums

The Carriacou Museum (closed Sunday) is in Hillsborough on Patterson Street behind Gramma's Bakery. It's a pretty building that once housed cotton gins. Amerindian, African and early European artifacts are displayed in two small rooms. The gift shop has a good selection of locally made souvenirs, along with representative works of folk artist Canute Caliste and painter Frankie Francis.

Parks & Gardens

On the northeast side of Hillsborough, in Beausejour, you will find the Carriacou Botanical Gardens. It's small, but definitely worth a visit to see the lovely native plants and trees.

Other Options

If you are interested in boatbuilding, visit the village of Windward (about 4 mi/6 km northeast of Hillsborough). There, shipwrights of mixed but mostly Scottish ancestry still fashion fishing boats and traditional wooden schooners up to 100 ft/30 m long. If you are there the day a new boat is being launched, don't miss the colorful launching ceremony, complete with Big Drum music. This is also one of the beaches where fishermen haul in their catches and where conch shells are discarded—note the big stacks.

The calm waters of Tyrrel Bay on the west coast are a favorite yacht anchorage. The nearby village of Harvey Vale has a French restaurant, several beachside cafes, shops, lodging and facilities for visiting yachting enthusiasts. The bay is perfect for water sports. The Carriacou Yacht and Beach Club has the island's only tennis court.

Beaches

Almost the entire coastline of Carriacou is lined with soft, fine-grained white sand. The beaches on the east side have a bit more wave action than those on the west, but barrier reefs make swimming safe just about everywhere.

The two most convenient beaches are within walking distance of Hillsborough. L'Esterre Bay, to the south, and Silver Beach, just north of town, both have shallow, clear water and offshore reefs. For a truly secluded beach and for what some say is the best snorkeling on the island, try Anse la Roche (Cove of the Rock), which is about 3 mi/5 km northwest of Hillsborough. You can walk there (in 20-30 minutes by way of the small village of Bogles), take the bus (US$2) or a taxi (US$8). There are no facilities there, so take your own food and drink. Tyrrel Bay, also known as Hurricane Bay, is on the western side of the island. Another favorite, Paradise Beach, is easily reached by bus.

Pegus Point, the southernmost spot on the island, has isolated strips of white sand that are perfect for picnics. The ruins of an old French estate house are also nearby.

Boating & Sailing

Scooby Water Taxi & Tours (http://www.grenadines.net/carriacou/scooby.html) offers half-day charters and often organizes sunset cruises, scuba and snorkeling excursions to White and Sandy Islands. Bogles Round House Cottages (phone 473-443-7841) takes guests on full-day (or longer) sailing and diving charters.

Robinson Crusoe wannabees can hire a boatman to take them for a short ride to three uninhabited islands called The Sisters. Other small islets that are great for picnicking, swimming and snorkeling include Saline Island (with its colony of seabirds), White Island, Mushroom Island, Frigate Island, Sandy Island and Large Island. Hire a boat at the Cassada Bay Hotel, where you can also order (in advance) a picnic to take along.

Hiking & Walking

The trail between Great Breteche Bay and Grand Bay is a pleasant 2-mi/3-km walk. Because there is no forest to speak of, it is difficult to get lost. Take a taxi to one end of the route and arrange to be picked up at the other.

Scuba & Snorkeling

The name Carriacou supposedly comes from the Carib word Kayryouacou, which means "land of the reefs." And it's true—snorkeling and diving are wonderful around the island and off the shores of several nearby islets, including Sandy, Mabouya and Saline Islands, as well as The Sisters. The oldest dive shop, Carriacou Silver Diving (phone 473-443-7882), is on Main Street, at the north end of Hillsborough. The shop offers diving courses as well as snorkeling and diving excursions. Snorkeling equipment rents for US$10 a day. A one-tank dive costs US$38, plus equipment. On request, you can book all-day dive trips to Mayreau or The Sisters Islands. The trips usually include the boat ride, two dives, lunch and soft drinks, and cost about US$130 per person (minimum six divers). Tanki's Watersport Paradise (phone 473-443-8406), at Paradise Beach, offers certified instruction, diving and snorkeling trips to Sandy Island. Tanki's can also outfit you for a full range of watersports.

In the event of a diving emergency, the Divers Alert Network (DAN) will provide treatment advice and, if necessary, arrange for evacuation to Trinidad (there is no decompression chamber in Grenada). Phone 919-684-8111 or 919-684-4326 (for collect calls). Both lines connect to DAN's headquarters in the U.S. DAN also answers health-related questions about diving. For more information, phone 919-684-2948 or toll-free 800-326-3822. http://www.diversalertnetwork.org.

Nightlife

Nightlife is pretty low-key, but there are scores of bars on the island (and it's a small island). The entertainment in most establishments consists of people-watching and drinking jack iron, a 180-proof rum concoction—so strong that ice actually sinks in it. Drink too many of these and you will be the entertainment.

There are no discos or casinos, although there is impromptu dancing in the streets outside the bars. Liz's is a good place in Tyrrel Bay. It's particularly crowded on Friday night, when it attracts a mix of locals and visitors. Another good place to sample the local spirits is the Hillsborough Bar on Main Street. The hotel bars sometimes have live bands on Friday and Saturday nights—try the Silver Beach Resort in Hillsborough.

Shopping

Monday and Thursday are market days, when Hillsborough is at its liveliest. The half dozen or so shops along Main Street, adjacent to the pier, carry locally made arts and crafts. Look for the work of folk artist Canute Caliste or painter Frankie Francis. Caliste is represented in the British Royal Family's art collection. If you ask around the shops, you'll often find one of Caliste's many grandchildren, who might lead you down a path through vegetable gardens to the artist's tiny robin's-egg-blue-and-pink studio. Hanging from the rafters are whimsical mermaids, boats and canvasses vividly depicting local traditions and celebrations.

Over in Tyrrel Bay, old standby Scraper's has a good selection of gifts, as does Malik's in Hillsborough.

Shopping Hours: Monday-Friday 8 am-4 pm, Saturday 8 am-1 pm. Some small shops close for an hour at lunch.

Local Tours

Bullen & Sons (phone 473-443-7468) is an established tour operator on the island.

Day Plans

To help you make the most of your time in Carriacou, we've designed two different itineraries.

Day Plans

PLAN A

Hillsborough/Windward/Beach

Start by browsing the small shops on Main Street. Then pick up a snack at Gramma's Bakery and enjoy it at one of the porch tables. From there, it's a short walk to the Carriacou Museum to view Amerindian artifacts and the work of local artists.

Next, hire a taxi and head for Belair to see the ruins of Belair Estate, an 18th-century plantation. Just north of the estate in Dover are the ruins of the island's first church. From there, the road descends to the small coastal village of Windward. You can easily spend an hour watching skilled craftsmen transform white cedar trees into sleek sailing boats with only basic hand tools.

As you head north along the scenic east and north coasts, you can see Carriacou's sister island, Petite Martinique, and some of the other islands of the Grenadines. The road is unpaved and occasionally bumpy, but you'll soon forget the discomfort once you hike down to secluded Anse la Roche, the most picturesque beach on the island. Spend as much time as you can enjoying the surf. On the way back to town, stop at Hospital Hill to take in the view.

PLAN B

A Deserted Island For Snorkeling

Start this tour with a walk through Hillsborough, taking in the Carriacou Museum across from the tourist office. Just north of town on the beach is Carriacou Silver Diving, where you can rent snorkel gear. Walk back to town along the beach, stopping at Gramma's Bakery to stock up on snacks and drinks. At the main pier in town, you'll find a number of water taxis (converted from fishing boats) that will take you to one of the offshore deserted islands. Most of the islands are only about a 10-minute ride from Hillsborough, but Sandy Island is probably the most popular. The reef surrounding this sandy islet is excellent for snorkeling. There's now a limit on the number of people allowed to visit the island at one time, so get there early. The beaches are a good place to hunt for shells, especially following a storm.

After some snorkeling, those goodies you bought at the bakery will taste even better. Be sure to make return arrangements before you send the water taxi on its way.

Dining Overview

There aren't a lot of places to dine on Carriacou (and most are located in Hillsborough) but the venues offer good value. Most dishes are prepared West Indian style, so they are hot and spicy. Staples include pigeon peas, fish and chicken. Besides fish, try spiny lobster, crab backs, lambi (conch), mangrove tree oysters (in season) and the favorite local dish, coo coo, an adaptation of an African dish made from cornmeal and coconut.

In general, breakfast is served in the early morning, around 8 am. Lunch, eaten around noon, is the main meal of the day, and an extended lunch hour is not uncommon. The evening meal is eaten between 6 and 8 pm. On Sunday, a large and social late-afternoon meal usually takes the place of lunch and dinner.

Expect to pay within these guidelines for a meal for one, not including tax, tip or drinks: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50.

Personal Safety

It's hard to imagine any criminal deeds going unnoticed on such a small island, but you should still exercise common sense: Don't leave valuables unattended on the beach while you go off snorkeling.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Health

Your biggest concern will likely be the sun—drink plenty of liquids and use plenty of sunscreen. Also take along a hat, sunglasses and insect repellent. Ask your doctor about vaccinations for hepatitis and typhoid. Stay away from machineel trees, which grow along some beaches. The applelike fruit is poisonous, and the sap can blister the skin. Often the trees are marked with warning signs or bright paint.

It's safe to drink tap water, but bottled water is available. The food is also safe, but exercise some discretion when purchasing food from street vendors—not all adhere to strict sanitation standards.

A small but not very modern hospital, the Princess Royal, overlooks Hillsborough (phone 473-443-7400). Take along all prescription medications needed for the length of your visit. In case of an emergency, dial 911. There are a handful of pharmacies, including Vena Bullen, Charles Pharmacy, and Low Budget Drug Mart around Hillsborough.

For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S.

Beginning 1 June 2009, passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.

Time Zone: Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

Currency Exchange

U.S. dollars and major credit cards are accepted at a handful of locations, but you're better off using local currency—the Eastern Caribbean dollar. If you want to exchange currency, ATMs in Hillsborough offer the best rates. Banks are open Monday-Thursday 8 am-2 pm and Friday 8 am-5 pm.

Telephone

International calls can be made from coin or card phones near the post office. Prepaid cards are readily available from shops in the vicinity of card phones, from hotel front desks, and from the Cable & Wireless office on Patterson Street in Hillsborough.

Internet Access

There are a few Internet cafes in Hillsborough.

Mail & Package Services

You'll find the main post office on Main Street in front of the pier. It's open Monday-Friday 8 am-noon and 1-4 pm. All mail is sent to Grenada on the daily ship.

Car

Rental cars and four-wheel-drive vehicles are available from Sunkey's Auto Rental (phone 473-0443-8382), Martin Bullen (phone 473-0443-7204) in Hillsborough and John Gabriel (phone 473-443-7454) in Tyrrell Bay. Expect to pay about US$40-$50 per day, but taxis are less expensive and less hassle if you'll be on the island for less than a day. Be prepared for steep hills and narrow, pothole-pitted roads that end abruptly. A valid driver's license is required. Driving is on the left side of the road.

Ferry

A 150-passenger high-speed catamaran, the Osprey Express, makes daily crossings between Carriacou and Grenada. Service is twice daily on weekdays and Sunday, but only once on Saturday. The trip takes 90 minutes and round-trip fare is US$35. The boat also makes twice-daily runs (except Sunday) to neighboring Petit Martinique for US$11.75 round-trip. Depending on wind and sea conditions, the journey can be somewhat rough, so take appropriate precautions if you're prone to seasickness.

Public Transportation

Privately owned (but government-controlled) minibuses are the main mode of transportation for residents because they're so economical (US$2 or less to anywhere on the island). Routes begin from the jetty in Hillsborough, but you can flag down a bus almost anywhere on its route. The main routes are Hillsborough-Windward and Hillsborough-Tyrrel Bay. Service is also available to and from the Langston Airstrip. When you want to get off, tap the ceiling and the driver will pull over.

Taxi

Taxis are plentiful and reliable. There are no meters, but prices range from about US$4 to about US$11. If you want a tour, expect to pay about US$60 for two to three hours (up to four people) and about US$30 for a tour lasting one to two hours. A taxi to Hillsborough is approximately US$3.75, and to Belair, about US$5.60.

Water taxis are the easiest way to get from the jetty to the beaches.

Other

Bicycle rentals are available from Wild Track Cycles in Tyrrel Bay. Expect to pay about US$18 per day. Phone 473-443-6472.