Near the casino, this well-rounded 19th century hotel is in the heart of town. This six-story chalet-hotel brims with unpretentious style from its garden pool and creaky lounge floors right to the fire escape, which spirals gracefully down the six-story exterior. The period look is relatively new yet seems authentic, and rates are surprisingly low.
The staff in the parquet-floored reception area provides a warm welcome. Though the hotel has no concierge, the tourist-information office in the building can book any ticket in town. The lounge off the lobby is the kind more hotels should have: creaky herringbone parquet, comfortable Chesterfield sofas, a grand piano, a glowing hearth, and desks for writing letters. Parlor tables topped with chessboards and current magazines round out the comfortable feel. Steps drop down to a room where tour leaders lecture their groups out of earshot of the rest of the guests.
The bi-level restaurant has wood flooring, elegantly swagged curtains, oval back chairs and a barbecue on the lawn. The attractive decor keeps guests on-site for elaborate five-course dinners making reservations essential some evenings. The bar area opens to a lawn and to the heated pool sparkling in the garden. Guests can sample regional wines for a small charge, and they enjoy signing privilege at neighboring properties under the same management.
A clay tennis court is also on the grounds, but guests may have to groom it themselves. Muscles can be soothed in the sauna. A free shuttle to the slopes stops right at the door. Guests with cars pay for garage parking. An e-mail desk is in the lobby and complimentary wireless high-speed Internet access signals beam throughout the property.
An elegant stairway winds toward the rooms. Guest rooms look good in Alpine attire, with cheerful print fabrics and sturdy stain-hiding carpeting. Their age is concealed by good quality, but given away by decade-old styling. All the necessities like phones, flat-screen TVs, minibars, safes, and simple baths with hair dryers are standard. Industrial-looking baths need additional attention to bring them up to par. Beds are firm and feature thinning spreads.
Surveying Mont Blanc from flower-draped balconies, front rooms are safe bets. But the large corner rooms and spacious deluxe rooms with sitting areas large enough for entertaining are the real prizes. Pets are permitted for a daily fee. Room service follows the hours of the restaurant.
A cosmopolitan crowd rubs elbows with well-heeled families year round except November. Sadly, maintenance issues are beginning to take a toll with worn fabrics and stains being a notable sign. This classic old-school hotel is a solid choice for those wanting to be in the very center of Chamonix at modest prices without sacrificing refined service. Nitpickers will spend plenty of time researching the hotel's faults and should be aware before booking here.
