This spectacular river valley has a little bit of everything: dark forests, craggy cliff faces, a majestic river, and medieval castles and villages of honey-colored stone. The river rises in the Massif Central and flows about 250 mi/400 km westward to enter the Atlantic Ocean near Bordeaux.
Among the valley's nicest villages is Domme, a quiet medieval bastide (fortified town) that affords panoramic views. Don't miss the grottes: You enter this cave system through the market in the heart of town. After you walk among some amazing stalactites, a glass elevator brings you back up a sheer cliff to the surface. Note that the roof height in the caves is quite low at times (about 6 ft/2 m).
The nearby village of La Roque-Gageac is worth seeing, too. It is built into an overhanging cliff, and its houses, paths and minuscule gardens are nestled in the cliffside, one almost on top of another. There is plenty of parking along the river at the bottom. It's well worth the walk up, but it's steep—take your time, especially if the day is hot.
Castles of note are Chateau de Beynac (which has an extraordinary view of the valley and a historical park with demonstrations of such traditional crafts as tool making) and Chateau de Castelnaud (an imposing castle particularly popular with children, although beware of steep drops).
Les Milandes, a Renaissance castle, is also worth a visit; it was the home of Josephine Baker, the American vaudeville star who was the darling of Paris from the 1920s through 1940s. She worked with the French Resistance during World War II, used the castle to hide people from the Nazis during World War II and was later awarded the Legion d'Honore.
Abbeys that deserve a visit include Carennac, Souillac and Beaulieu-en-Rouergue. There are also many prehistoric caves in the area, including Les Eyzies and Rocamadour. If you are in the area on a Sunday morning, check out the charming market at St. Cyprien.
This is serious food country—the Perigord cuisine is famous throughout France. Foie gras, duck, wild mushrooms and walnuts are central ingredients, all served with plenty of fresh garden produce. Be prepared to eat leisurely and well. Plan to spend two to three days in the region.
