Fez has rightly been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its walled medina is one of the largest, most intact and impressive medieval cities in the Arab world and, taken as a whole, it's the architectural highlight of Morocco. Fez also has a French-planned new city (
ville nouvelle), and the contrast between the old and the new sections makes sightseeing all the more fascinating. You truly feel as if you're stepping into the past when you walk through one of the gates to the old medina.
Our favorite spots for a panoramic view of the old city are Borj Sud (a ruined fortress atop a hill south of the medina) and the Merenid Hotel (north of the medina). The more distant view from the Zalagh Hotel in the new city is also very nice. The new city, by contrast, has a European feel, with wide streets and squares. Avenue Hassan II and Boulevard Mohammed V are the main thoroughfares there, and both are lined with restaurants, sidewalk cafes and pastry shops.
Sightseeing
Fez's medina is divided into two sections, Fez el-Bali (the older, more extensive part) and Fez el-Jedid (the newer, smaller part). Fez el-Bali is a formidable maze, and you could spend several days exploring the narrow, winding alleys. Start at the decorative gate, Bab Bou Jeloud, and walk along either Talaat el-Kebir or Talaat el-Seghir, two parallel streets that run most of the length of Fez el-Bali. The most important buildings are the Kairouine Mosque and University, and the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss II, both of which are at the center, and lowest point, of the medina. Non-Muslims are not permitted to enter these buildings, but you can peer inside the doors when they're open.
Medersas (theological schools), however, are open to the general public, and they're the best places to view the rich architectural detail for which Fez is famous. Bou Inania, near Bab Bou Jeloud, is often considered the most ornately decorated medersa in Fez—it has its own minaret and a water clock that regulates the times for prayer. The medersas of Attarine, Cherratin and Seffarine (closer to the Kairouine Mosque) are also worth visiting.
The city's most important museum of decorative arts is the Batha Museum, housed in a renovated villa. There's also a nice museum of woodwork in a converted funduq (caravansary) at Place Nejjarine. Across the river, to the east, is the Andalus Quarter. We found it to be less hectic than the rest of Fez el-Bali. The Andalus Mosque is the quarter's most important landmark. The nearby Medersa Sahrish has a beautiful courtyard pool and is definitely worth visiting.
The newer part of the medina (west of Fez el-Bali) is Fez el-Jedid. The main highlights there are the Royal Palace (whose interior is not open to the public) and the old Jewish quarter, or mellah, with its synagogues and cemetery.
Shopping
Centuries-old crafts and trades are on display in the souks in both parts of the medina. These colorful bazaars are a shopper's delight. Self-described guides will no doubt offer to take you to the tanneries, where animal hides are tanned, dyed and fashioned into everything from slippers to suitcases (be prepared for the odors). You can also see (and hear) coppersmiths and other artisans at work and gaze at bright displays of fabric, thread, spices and handicrafts.
Day Trips
There are three spas in the vicinity of Fez—Moulay Yacoub, Ain Allah and Sidi Harazem—and day trips can also be taken to Meknes, Moulay Idriss, Volubilis and Ifrane.
Calendar
A weeklong International Festival of Sacred Music is held annually in June. http://www.fesfestival.com.
