This capital city sits on a 1-sq-mi/2-sq-km atoll—the whole place can be seen on foot in about an hour. Home to about one-third of the population, it's packed to the gills with buildings and people—in fact, it's become so crowded that a neighboring island is being readied to take the overflow. (And several land reclamation projects were needed just to get Male' to its current size.) Some of the older buildings have been demolished to make way for tall, modern ones. And unfortunately, although the place is tiny, everyone seems to own a car or motorbike, and traffic has become unpleasant. Male' has no beaches, being surrounded by seawalls on all sides. However, a landscaped artificial beach and adjoining breakwater have been built around the harbor on the southwest side of the island, which has become popular for jogging and strolling.
Start your tour of Male' (pronounced MAHL-ee) at the waterfront near Jumhooree Maidan, the main square. Pass by the main fishing harbor, crowded with dhonis (traditional fishing boats) unloading their catch. The area has some interesting markets, along with hangouts for the fishing folk. Take time to visit the small National Museum and look at the stone figures collected from sites in the Maldives by adventurer Thor Heyerdahl. The pleasant Sultan's Park surrounds the museum. Tea shops offer a good way to meet people, and you can shop for souvenirs at Singapore Bazaar.
The population of the Maldives is overwhelmingly Islamic, and there are more than a dozen mosques in Male'. The modern Grand Friday Mosque dominates the city's skyline, but the mosque known as Hukuru Miski is the city's oldest and most distinctive. Unlike most mosques in the Maldives, visitors are not allowed inside, but the surrounding courtyard contains a cemetery full of elaborately carved coral headstones. Many Maldivian leaders, including Abu Al Barakat, the man who brought Islam to the Maldives in the 12th century, are entombed in the mosque's crypts.
There are some interesting dive sites near Male', although the nearby waters are littered with cast-off bicycles and other trash. Of particular interest is the wreck of the Maldive Victory, a cargo ship that hit a reef and sank in 1981—it's now covered with coral and lots of fish.
Male' is surrounded by North Male' Atoll and South Male' Atoll, which were the first places in the country to be developed for tourism. North Male' Atoll has the best surfing in the Maldives, as well as some shipwrecks that make fascinating dive sites. Banana Reef, a protected marine area, is probably the country's best-known dive site. The Helengeli and Eriyadu Resorts are among the most popular in the area with divers. South Male' Atoll also has a number of good dive sites, many of which include small caves and tunnels.