This province (with a capital city of the same name) in western Cuba is one of the most beautiful in the country: Stunning
mogotes (limestone mountains) tower over lush fields of the tobacco grown to make the legendary Cuban cigars. The premier-quality tobaccos are grown in Vuelta Abajo and in Hoyo del Monterrey, both southwest of the city of Pinar del Rio. (The growing season is December-April.) Tour buses leave for daylong trips from Havana and stop at a cigar factory in the city of Pinar del Rio along the way. We recommend renting a car to make the trip, though: That will allow you to stop when you want to take photos.
For the most magnificent scenery, take the main highway from Pinar del Rio city to the exit for Vinales. Although the road is potholed in some parts, the scenery becomes more dramatic as you approach Vinales, a sleepy colonial village with two appealing hotels and plenty of casas particulares (private room rentals). The valley is studded with tall limestone outcroppings laced by caverns and interspersed between fertile valleys. Vaqueros till their tobacco fields in age-old fashion using ox-drawn ploughs. You can stop along the way for refreshments (or a dance) at a cave that has been converted into a disco bar. Good country-style tourist restaurants are found at the Valley of Prehistory (where restaurant patrons have an excellent view of a 590-ft/180-m mural that adorns the cliff face of Mogote Dos Hermanos) and at the Cueva del Indio (site of an eerie subterranean river that can be toured by boat). Stick with the northern coastal road on the way back to Havana (the water is on your left, beautiful hills and valleys to your right). Although the entire drive can be made as a day trip from Havana, we recommend taking things at a slower pace, overnighting along the way.
Southwest of Pinar del Rio, lying on the southwestern tip of Cuba itself, is Maria La Gorda. It's definitely off the beaten track but divers rave about untouched reefs teeming with marine life lying only minutes from the shore. At least 5 mi/8 km of splendid white-sand beach front the warm, crystal clear water. Guanahacabibes National Park has plenty of endemic wildlife, plus trails—guided hikes are offered. It's a very long drive to get there, so be sure that driving or nature hikes are on your agenda, as there is nothing else to see or do, and there is only one hotel. The city of Pinar del Rio is 100 mi/160 km southwest of Havana.
