Puntarenas, Costa Rica, is a small Pacific-coast city about 50 mi/80 km west of San Jose now making a comeback as a port and resort town. For foreign tourists, however, it remains mainly a place to pass through en route to or from the Nicoya Peninsula.
Built at the tip of a long, narrow peninsula (puntarenas is Spanish for "sandy point"), Puntarenas is a good base from which to visit nearby national parks or the towns of Quepos or Jaco because of its central location on the west coast. Puntarenas has also been the best place to catch ferries to the Nicoya Peninsula or to take day cruises to nearby islands. The beach can get crowded on holiday weekends, when Ticos from San Jose flock to it. ("Ticos" is a term Costa Ricans apply to themselves and anything Costa Rican.)
Other than some spectacular sunsets, the city itself previously didn't have much to offer. That is changing: The once-polluted Puntarenas beach has been cleaned up and refurbished with sand, an aquarium has opened, and the pier area, where large cruise ships dock, has been transformed into a pleasant place to stroll.
Restaurants and shops now line the Malecon, a pedestrian walkway that runs along the waterfront north of town. Ticos on weekend holiday are again mingling with tourists there. Take an hour or so to explore the city—it's a good place to shop for supplies and souvenirs, have coffee and take photos. Note, however, that the climate is usually hot and muggy.
Must See or Do
Sights—A catamaran cruise to Isla Tortuga.
Museums—The maritime displays in the Museo Historico Maritimo.
Memorable Meals—Buffet-with-view at Club del Mar Sandales Restaurant on Jaco Beach; fresh seafood at Cevichito Bar and Restaurant.
Walks—The seafront boardwalk known as Paseo de los Turistas; the Malecon, a pedestrian walkway that runs along the waterfront north of town.
Especially for Kids—Parque Marina del Pacifico aquarium; zipline adventure and horseback riding at Hotel Vista Golfo Adventure Park; a crocodile safari on the Tarcoles River.
History
The slender peninsula with a sheltered harbor on its north side provided an advantageous anchorage for Spanish ships exploring the New World, and the first settlement at Puntarenas was built in 1522. The port remained tiny for centuries but was given a major boost in the late 18th century with the growth of coffee's popularity in Europe.
At the time, Costa Rica lacked a viable path eastward to the Caribbean coast, and Puntarenas was quickly able to assert its role as the prime port for exportation of coffee, which was brought from the highlands by convoys of mules. Electric streetcars were installed, and the city enjoyed a brief period of prosperity.
However, ships sailed from Puntarenas to Europe via Cape Horn—a dangerous journey—and the completion of the Atlantic Railroad in 1890 put an end to the city's short-lived import. Life revived in the 1920s when a Pacific railroad connected San Jose to Puntarenas, which soon became a popular beach resort for the middle classes. The town also developed a large fishing and shrimping fleet, and the industry remains important.
Potpourri
The Pan-American Highway network runs from Alaska to southern South America. The stretch between the U.S. and Panama, which runs through Costa Rica, is called the Inter-American Highway.
Although Ponce de Leon did not find the Fountain of Youth that he sought in Florida, in 1519 he did discover Quepos and the area that is now the Manuel Antonio National Park.
The guanacaste tree is the national tree of Costa Rica. This towering shade tree, predominately found in Guanacaste Province, takes its name from the indigenous Indian words for tree (guana) and ear (caste), as the curled seed pods resemble a human ear. It was selected as the national tree in honor of Guanacaste Province's act of voting to leave Nicaragua and join Costa Rica in 1826.
Palm-oil plantations are found in southern Puntarenas Province on the way to Quepos, where miles/kilometers of stately palms in neat rows line the highway, along with an occasional palm-oil processing plant.
Sightseeing
Puntarenas is mostly a down-at-heels port town, although city fathers have made a valiant effort to spruce things up. Caution should be used when wandering around obviously dilapidated and rough areas, where drunks abound. Sightseeing is extremely limited in town. The Museo Historico Maritimo, housed in the former city jail, has an interesting display related to city history and pre-Columbian cultures, and the old stone church to the rear is intriguing. More rewarding is to walk the Paseo de los Turistas, the seafront promenade lined with souvenir stalls and other vendors. However, the city can be explored in three hours.
Recreation
Recreational opportunities are few and far between in Puntarenas and the immediate area. However, the Doubletree Resort by Hilton Puntarenas sells day passes that grant full access to its facilities, which include meals, drinks, volleyball, tennis, windsurfing, sea kayaks and Jet Skis. US$60 per person. Phone 2663-0808. http://www.puntarenas.doubletree.com
Fishing
Costa Rica is considered by many to be the sportfishing capital of the world. You can make arrangements with local Puntarenas City fishermen, but you are likely to get better results with a half-day or full-day sportfishing charter out of the only marina in Costa Rica, in Jaco.
Nightlife
Puntarenas City has relatively little nightlife. Several bars line Paseo de los Turistas. Most feature karaoke and large-screen TVs and draw local youth. Avoid the sleazy bars in the center of town, where drunks abound.
The real action is in Jaco, with all the splendor of the surfer-dude culture. A lot of bars, many right on the beach, provide a full range of meals, drinks, music, dancing and fun.
Quepos-Manuel Antonio offers more refined nightlife with a lot of gourmet restaurants; there are both individual establishments and restaurants that are part of the many good hotels in the area.
Shopping
There is an artisans' plaza at the entrance to the cruise terminal in Puntarenas. Craft stalls along Paseo de los Turistas also serve the cruise ships and sell the usual assortment of hammocks, hardwood boxes and carvings, paintings of typical rural scenes and locally crafted jewelry. Otherwise the town has little to offer in the way of shopping.
A lot more choice is available in the very touristy Jaco Beach area, with many nice gift shops and galleries along the main drag, Pastor Dias Avenue.
Quepos-Manual Antonio offers has some very fine gift shops and galleries associated with the major hotels, including Gaia Hotel and Reserve, Best Western Kamuk—which is right on the waterfront in downtown Quepos—and the Si Como No Hotel, located on the road to Manuel Antonio National Park.
Day Trips
To
Monteverde—This town is known worldwide for its cloud forest reserve teeming with animals and birds, including the resplendent quetzal. Wildlife guides are available. Other attractions of this Quaker community in the mountains include a serpentarium displaying snakes and a butterfly farm. The steep, unpaved road to Monteverde is almost as famous as the destination. Prices for a guided tour alone are US$37 adults, US$32 children.
To Doubletree by Hilton—The time-challenged tourist can enjoy a day trip to this all-inclusive resort, which is a 10-minute taxi ride from the cruise ship pier in Puntarenas City to the base of the peninsula (a 30-minute ride from the port of Caldera). Beautiful ebony volcanic-sand beaches, sparkling pools, and food and drink available. Daily tickets are US$60 per person.
To Tambor and Montezuma—Catch the ferry at the west end of Puntarenas to Paquero, then take a 15-minute bus or taxi ride to the beautiful and tranquil beach village of Tambor. Travel another 15 minutes and check out the surfing action at Montezuma.
To Manuel Antonio National Park—Located just outside Quepos, this is one of the smaller national parks in Costa Rica and one of the most popular. It covers only 1,687 acres/683 hectares, yet it contains an astounding diversity of wildlife, plants, beautiful beaches and coral reefs. Tour companies can provide transportation and the required licensed guide. The number of visitors is limited to 600 per day during the week, and 800 per day on weekends. There is a US$10 entrance fee for adults; children are admitted free. Phone 506-2777-5185. http://www.manuelantoniopark.com.
To Arenal Volcano—Take an overnight trip to the Arenal Volcano near La Fortuna. There are luxurious accommodations and wonderful cuisines available. On an evening trip to the Arenal Volcano Observatory, you can watch the fiery show of lava flows and erupting lava rocks; or take a swim by magical evening light in one of the thermal pools nearby.
To Carara National Park—The park, a rain forest with walking trails, is about 20 mi/32 km south of Puerto Caldera. (The drive takes about 30 minutes; expect to pay about US$25 each way.) The Tarcoles River runs by the park. You can see crocodiles from a bridge on the main highway but far more rewarding is to take a crocodile safari by boat, offered from Tarcoles Village.
Local Tours
Among the companies offering tours in Costa Rica are Horizontes (phone 506-2222-2022; http://www.horizontes.com), Costa Rica Expeditions (phone 506-2257-0766), Swiss Travel (phone 506-2282-4898), Tam Tours (offers vacation packages as well as tours; phone 506-2256-0203) and Expediciones Tropicales (phone 506-2257-4171). Most are based in San Jose but all will arrange for transportation and a guide to meet you at the cruise-ship piers.
Day Plans
It doesn't usually take more than a day to see everything in Puntarenas, but there are a lot of adventures you can fit into the 12 hours that cruise ships are typically in port. The following plans can certainly be squeezed into a single day, and we suggest as much time as possible with your toes in the sand.
Day Plans
Plan 1—In the morning, take a taxi to downtown Puntarenas City. Visit the market and Museo Historico Maritimo, as well as Parque Marino del Pacifico; then stroll the Paseo de los Turistas or the Malecon, taking time to shop for souvenirs. In the afternoon, take a taxi to the Doubletree Resort Hotel for a day pass to enjoy lunch, then while away the remaining hours with watersports or relaxing on the beach.
Plan 2—Take a taxi to the beach resort of Jaco, stopping en route to view the crocodiles in the Tarcoles River. Enjoy a ride on the Pacific Rain Forest Aerial Tram or spend the morning shopping for souvenirs. For lunch, head to Villa Caletas, where you can admire the fabulous views over the Gulf of Nicoya. If time permits, treat yourself to a spa treatment, then take the hotel shuttle to the beach; spend the rest of the afternoon at the beach club before catching a taxi back to Puerto Caldera.
Dining Overview
Puntarenas City has only a fistful of restaurants that can be recommended. Basic budget meals can be had at
sodas (open-air snack counters) near the Central Market (Avenida 3, Calle 2) and along Paseo de los Turistas. Good seafood dishes are to be had at many restaurants—we recommend
corvina al ajillo (sea bass with garlic). Several inexpensive Chinese restaurants cluster around the junction of Avenida Central and Calle Central, although none are remarkable.
Outside of the city itself, the are great dining experiences to be enjoyed throughout Puntarenas Province, especially at resorts and hotels around Jaco and Quepos.
Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$5; $$ = US$5-$10; $$$ = US$11-$20; and $$$$ = more than US$20.
Cafes & Tearooms
Be sure to try the Musmanni pastries from the little bakery shops found in all shopping areas in Costa Rica. Select your goodies from the glass-door display cases and place them on your tray, leaving the tongs that you use on the tray. Hand the tray to a clerk, pay the very modest bill (about US$0.60 per item), sit down at a little table, and enjoy.
Personal Safety
Puntarenas is a mostly down-at-heels port town and, as such, displays more than its fair share of drunks and low-class hookers. Most parts of the city are relatively safe. However, we advise against wandering around the obviously run-down parts of Puntarenas, easily identified by the tumbledown condition of housing. This is especially true of the area immediately east of the Central Market. Always lock the door to your hotel room and ensure that the windows are secure: There's a good reason that almost every building in the town (and Costa Rica, for that matter) has barred windows.
Travelers have been the victims of pickpocket theft, purse-snatching and car break-ins. A growing body of malfeasants have devised clever schemes specifically aimed at trusting tourists. Violent crimes are far less common, but muggings aren't unknown. Many women report Peeping Toms in cheaper accommodations.
Drugs have also had an impact in Costa Rica. Locals have reported that what used to be incidents of simple purse-snatching are now accompanied by more violent behavior, sometimes with firearms. As anywhere in the world today, just be aware and alert, and avoid suspicious or more rundown areas.
Visitors should exercise common sense and be especially cautious of natural dangers at nearby national parks, beaches and tourist attractions. Do not leave valuables in a car, especially at national parks and other remote areas. You should consult park authorities before setting off on hikes to be sure trails are safe. Never hike alone, and always stay on marked trails. Women should be especially cautious in isolated areas and should never hike alone.
Adventure tourism is big business in Costa Rica, but it's a largely unregulated industry. We recommend playing it safe and dealing with well-established operators that you've researched prior to your arrival. Never hire a freelance guide other than through a respected local tour operator. Again, be aware that an independent tour guide will probably not have the insurance that is required for licensed tour companies. Tourists have occasionally been robbed, or left stranded in the middle of a national park, by unscrupulous freelance tour guides.
Health
The major hospitals are in the more-populated San Jose and the Central Valley of Costa Rica. Every province has a series of clinics that are operated by the health arm of the national health insurance program, CAJA. Serious cases in the rural area are usually evacuated to San Jose.
There is one hospital in Puntarenas City area. The Monsenor Sanabria Hospital is located in the nearby city of El Robles. Phone 2630-8000.
The hospital in Quepos is located between the center of Quepos and the airport, 980 ft/300 m from the airport. Phone 2777-0922. Paramedic service is available 24 hours daily at 2777-1632.
Disabled Advisory
Puntarenas City is not set up for the handicapped. Few sidewalks have ramps, and even fewer public buildings have ramps, special elevators or other facilities catering to handicapped travelers.
The Costa Rican-based Vaya con Silla de Ruedas (Go with Wheelchairs) can provide information. It provides an extensive menu of special tours for the handicapped and also operates a specially equipped vehicle as a taxi and for transfers. Phone 454-2810. http://www.gowithwheelchairs.com.
Dos & Don'ts
Do learn a little Spanish. Costa Ricans are warm and friendly, and they really appreciate your attempts to speak in their language.
Don't take the rules of the road for granted if you drive anywhere in Costa Rica, but especially in San Jose. Normally warm and friendly Costa Ricans have a split personality when it comes to driving, and Mr. Hyde takes over when they get behind a wheel. Pedestrians do not have the right-of-way, and Costa Rican drivers know it well and take full advantage of that fact. Exercise great caution.
Do leave a little extra for a tip in restaurants, even though tips are included in the bill. The annual income is not great for the people who serve you, and they really appreciate that extra token. Do bring extra US$1 bills. They make that extra tip easy.
Don't be afriad to take an occasional ride on the public buses. These buses are plentiful, cheap and the primary transportation of average Costa Ricans. Ticos like to see you sharing this feature of their lives.
Do get very specific when you ask for directions. Costa Ricans are a little vague in that area, often referencing directions from a certain location or landmark that may no longer exist. When they say "You can’t miss it," you probably will.
Don't collect any plants or animals. They are considered precious resources and are protected by law.
Do stop at Mi Finca, the Interbus stop on the route between San Jose and Puntarenas, and visit with the macaws at home in the tall trees there. Not only will these beautiful birds come down to the lower limbs to allow you to admire them, they will also perform "flybys" over you to show off the colors on their tummies and their flying skills.
Don't be afraid to ask questions. Costa Ricans are proud of their country and are eager to answer questions and share information. Be aware though, that Costa Ricans also hate to provide bad news, so they will often phrase answers in the best possible light, just to keep from making someone unhappy.
Do conserve resources. Costa Rica has become very ecosensative, and Ticos from small children to adults are practicing conservation. They are concerned with maintaining sustainable tourism to protect their future.
Hotel Overview
Other than one all-inclusive beach resort 8 mi/13 km east of town, Puntarenas City has two types of accommodations: budget options in old wooden homes downtown and modest tourist hotels along or near Paseo de los Turistas. The cheapest of the budget options are very basic and attract drunks and prostitutes. Before checking in, ask to see the room (some of the cheaper places can get pretty bad) and don't be shy about asking for a better one. Although most hotels have air-conditioning, we recommend hotels as far west as possible, to catch the ocean breezes in the muggy town.
Accommodations improve, however, as you travel south. The Jaco area has any number of budget, modest and more upscale hotels, as well as a few more luxurious options.
The city of Quepos, at the entrance to the very popular Manual Antonio National Park, offers a wide variety of hotels and resorts.
Book well in advance for Christmas, New Year's, Easter, October Carnival and for the mid-July Festival of the Virgin of the Sea. Keep in mind that some hotels close in October—the rainiest month in Costa Rica.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: U.S. and Canadian citizens need passports but not visas. Proof of sufficient funds and onward passage are also required. There is a departure tax of US$26 when leaving Costa Rica, although cruise lines normally include this fee in their rates for passengers.
Population: 113,000.
Languages: Spanish.
Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).
Time Zone: 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-6 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.
Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.
Telephone Codes: 506, country code;
Currency Exchange
Generally speaking, the most convenient place to change money is at your hotel, though you may get a slightly better exchange rate at banks. Be forewarned, however, that many banks have a time-consuming process for changing money and often have long lines if you choose not to use an ATM. Be aware that US$100 bills are becoming increasingly suspect because of counterfeiting. Some bills have actually been confiscated.
Do not exchange money on the street. Currency forgery has become a major problem in Costa Rica—you could end up with useless paper as well as being robbed in the process.
Costa Rica's currency is the colon, which has been gradually and steadily losing value for years. U.S. dollars are widely accepted throughout the country and are welcomed everywhere, except on buses. Even the smallest soda shop owners will accept your dollars, whip out a calculator, and give you change in colons—often at a good exchange rate.
Few places accept traveler's checks. It is best to carry U.S. dollars, as other currencies can be difficult to exchange.
There are several banks on Avenida 3, between Calle Central and Calle 3 in Puntarenas City. Most banks have ATMs, and there's one at the cruise terminal also. You can usually withdraw either colons or U.S. dollars. Banks are usually the least crowded in the early morning, but there always seem to be people waiting to see a teller, sometimes forming long lines outside the bank.
Taxes
There is a 13% tax at restaurants and a 16% tax at hotels.
Tipping
Restaurants add a 10% service charge, so it isn't necessary to tip. An extra tip for good service is always appreciated, however. Taxi drivers are not tipped unless they provide a special service such as assisting with luggage or a tour of the city en route to your hotel.
Weather
The town is known for its hot, humid weather year-round. Despite jutting out into the Gulf of Nicoya, Puntarenas receives relatively few ocean breezes, which tend to come from the south. The best time to visit is the relatively dry period of December-May, but we suggest avoiding the Christmas and Easter holidays because everyone seems to go to the beach. (Businesses are shut down and all the hotels are full.) January is our favorite time to go, but Puntarenas is really a year-round destination.
Tourism promoters are trying to encourage travel in the rainy season (June-October) by selling it as the "green season." The vegetation looks nicer then and prices are lower, but you can almost be guaranteed at least a brief thunderstorm every day in late afternoon or early evening. October is the wettest month of the very wet "green season," and some restaurants and hotels close down for the entire month.
What to Wear
Dress in Costa Rica is conservatively casual. Puntarenas is a hot and humid town, so you'll be glad for shorts and short-sleeved shirts. However, bathing suits and short shorts are for the beach. You'll feel comfortable during the evening in casual sports clothes.
In Puntarenas, businesses are slightly less formal than in San Jose, Costa Rica's capital city in the cooler highlands. Tico men wear collared shirts (short sleeves are fine), such as guayaberas worn outside the pants, and slacks. Women wear skirts or dresses, though jackets are rarely seen.
For hiking in nearby national parks, wear comfortable shoes or sneakers (which will most likely get muddy) or lightweight hiking boots, along with lightweight pants and long-sleeved shirts to guard against thorns and biting insects. Take along a hat, not only as protection against the sun, but to keep leaves and other rain-forest debris out of your hair.
Carry a light raincoat or poncho in wet season (and stick a couple of plastic bags in your pocket to protect your camera). We also recommend a change of socks (especially on long day tours) to prevent blisters.
You will need your bathing suit and plenty of sunscreen for a day trip to Isla Tortuga.
Telephone
Costa Rica's phone service is very good. International calls can be made from any pay phone. Some pay phones accept coins, but most are now designed for use with prepaid phone cards—available at post offices and many shops.
All local numbers now have eight digits, and no additional area codes are necessary. (Dial just the eight-digit local number, even if you're calling another town.) If you encounter an old seven-digit number, simply add a "2" at the beginning (for a land line); for a cell-phone number, add an "8."
Dial 114 for access to international direct-dial service and 116 for an English-language operator-assisted call. Dial 0 before all toll-free 800 numbers. Dial 113 for local directory assistance or 124 for international directory assistance. Canadians can reach a Canadian telephone operator by dialing 0-800-015-1161.
Internet Access
You shouldn't have any trouble finding an Internet cafe or other place to check your e-mail in Puntarenas. Most hotels offer e-mail service, as does the Millenium Cibercafe, near the cruise terminal on Paseo de los Turistas. Phone 2661-4759.
Mail & Package Services
The main post office, Correos de Costa Rica, is located at Avenida 3, Calle Central 1 in Puntarenas City. In Jaco, the post office is one block west of the main street, in the southern part of the town. The post office in Quepos answers the phone at 2777-1471. Hours are Monday-Friday 8 am-5 pm, Saturday 8 am-noon.
Newspapers & Magazines
The country's leading daily Spanish-language newspaper is
La Nacion, which publishes a weekly entertainment section on Thursday; it's sold at street stalls in Puntarenas. The weekly English-language paper,
The Tico Times, comes out on Friday and does an excellent job of covering national news; it is available at gift shops in some hotels.
Transportation
Puntarenas City is easily reached by car from San Jose—a two- or three-hour drive, most of it on the Inter-American Highway. You can also catch an Empresarios Unidos express bus, which runs every hour from Calle 16 and Avenida 12, in San Jose. Phone 506-2222-0064.
The easiest way to travel between cities, especially to the more secluded areas, is to book a tourist bus from one of the companies that specializes in this industry. The major players are Interbus (phone 506-2283-5573), Shuttle Me (phone 506-2292-9016), Costa Rica Shuttle (phone 506-2289-9509), Gray Line (phone 506-2220-2126) and Easy Ride (phone 506-2220-21260. One-way fares range US$21-$49, depending on the distance involved. The bus will usually have a specific drop-off point, often requiring an additional taxi ride, but sometimes you can arrange to be taken directly to your hotel or resort. If you happen to be the last passenger to be dropped off, the bus driver will often go to great lengths to accommodate you, expecting to be rewarded for this extra effort.
Local buses run along Avenida Central and Avenida 2 in Puntarenas City. Distances from downtown to the touristy tip of the peninsula are easily underestimated. Allow at least an hour to walk, but note that it is often extremely hot and humid, so you may want to take longer.
Ferries from Puntarenas City for the Nicoya peninsula depart from Avenida 3, Calles 33-35. From Naviera Tambor to Paquera (Tambor), phone 506-2661-2084; Ferry Peninsular to Playa Naranjo, phone 506-2641-0515. Ferries make four round-trips each day. Fare US$1.50 for an adult, US$10 for a car.
Local buses are available between Puntarenas City and Jaco or Quepos. Although infrequent and often crowded during rush hours and weekends, they can be a fun and inexpensive way of getting around Puntarenas Province.
Costa Rica also has a good intercity bus system for those interested in exploring on their own.
Calendar
The town of Puntarenas comes alive each mid-February for Carnival Puntarenas, when a beauty queen is chosen, locals dress up in costume, floats parade through the streets, live concerts are held, and the whole town gets in the groove to Latin rhythms hot enough to cook the pork. The celebration begins with the crowning of the carnival queen in the Plaza Pacifico on the first day of events, followed by continuous parades of
comparsas (organized groups of carnival dancers) and vivid
mascaradas (giant, smiling painted heads) on the Paseo de los Turistas in the town center. The biggest event is the carnival procession on the Saturday of the final weekend, starting in the Balneario Municipal and filing up the Paseo de los Turistas.
Another good time to visit Puntarenas City is mid-July—the Festival of the Virgin of the Sea celebrates an incident in 1913 when four seamen were miraculously saved from a storm immediately after praying to the Virgin Mary. On the Saturday closest to 16 July, a regatta of gaily decorated fishing boats and yachts parades up and down off the Puntarenas beaches. One of the boats carries an image of the patron saint of Puntarenas, the Virgin of Monte Carmelo. Masses, processions, concerts, dances, sports contests and fireworks contribute to the festivities.
Montezuma hosts an International Film Festival in November. Inaugurated in 2007, the festival presents five days of free screenings, lectures, art exhibitions and live music in this surfing city. International films of all genres and lengths are shown in three venues. http://www.montezumafilmfestival.com.
With all Central American countries, Costa Rica celebrates Independence Day on 15 September. The celebrations begin on 14 September, when a freedom torch is brought from Nicaragua by Costa Rican relay runners, who arrive in the old capital of Cartago in time for the singing of the National Anthem at 6 pm. This is followed by parades, marching bands and parties that continue until dawn on the next day.
All of Costa Rica also celebrates Mother's Day on 15 August, when Mom is queen for the day. This special tribute to mothers is celebrated on the anniversary of the Virgin Mary's ascent to heaven.
