Italians say that Turin (Torino), the major city of the western Alps, seems more French than Italian. Its wide boulevards in a grid pattern and its 17th- and 18th-century architecture do bear more resemblance to Paris than Florence. A stroll about the city center provides architectural enthusiasts examples of Renaissance, baroque, turn-of-the-century and modern buildings. The city is also distinguished by miles/kilometers of 18th-century colonnades.
Turin is the capital of Piedmont, a region that even Italians consider to have the best food in Italy. Many years of French occupation have left a mark on Piedmontese cuisine, which includes more cheese dishes and sauces than is common in traditional Italian cooking. The Piedmontese are an independent-minded people who have invented their own style of cuisine that is neither French nor Italian, but incorporates the best of both. Turin also has a well-deserved international reputation for its coffee and claims to have invented chocolate, or at least gianduitto, the delicious confection made from chocolate and hazelnut. Temptation beckons in every window, so it is best to leave your diet at home.
Must See or Do
Sights—The Mole Antonelliana for its marvelous 360-degree views of Turin; the Turin Shroud, especially the display of a replica in San Lorenzo; Palazzo Reale (the royal palace of the Savoy dynasty); Madre di Dio and the Holy Grail; Basilica di Superga.
Museums—GAM, the modern art gallery; the National Museum of Cinema; the Egyptian Museum.
Memorable Meals—Bicerin (a hot drink made with chocolate, coffee and cream) at Al Bicerin; fritto misto alla piemontese at Tre Galline; aperitivo buffet at Caffe Roberto; cakes at Baratti & Milano.
Late Night—Discos along the Po River near Piazza Vittorio Veneto; Pier 7-9-11; Barrumba.
Walks—Strolling under the colonnades along Via Po; window-shopping on the old Roman road, Via Garibaldi.
Especially for Kids—The cinema museum; the panoramic lift to the top of the Mole; the tram to Basilica Superga.
History
Turin's geographical position at the foot of the Alps has made it an ideal place for travelers to rest both before and after the difficult journey through the mountains. The settlement was originally named Taurasia, after the Taurini tribe who lived there in about 500 BC. Hannibal rested there with his exhausted troops and one remaining elephant after a terrifying winter journey through the Alps during the Punic wars of 218 BC. He burned the village to the ground.
The foundations of this Roman colony named Taurinorum were laid under Julius Caesar in the final decades of the first century BC. The Roman Empire declined around the fourth century AD, and Turin was once again subject to barbarian invasions. After rule by the Lombards (568-774) and Franks (778-888), Turin passed to the house of Savoy in 1046. The Savoy family ruled for 900 years, eventually becoming kings of Italy—the last Savoy king, Vittorio Emanuele III, abdicated in 1945.
Turin was severely bombed in World War II by Allied forces. The damage was so great that parents loaded their children onto trains bound for the relative peace of Tuscany. One woman, Iris Origo, protected and cared for more than 500 Torinese children on her farm near Montepulciano. Turin benefited from the post-war boom when many southerners moved north looking for work. The city became a company town and its population soared along with the output of Fiat cars. The car manufacturer's heyday was in the 1970s: Fiat bought Ferrari in 1969 and Lancia in 1978. The decline of Fiat coincided with the death of its founder, Gianni Agnelli, in 2003. Hosting the XX Winter Olympic Games (February 2006) has revitalized the city.
Sightseeing
Turin's main sights are within easy walking distance of Piazza Castello, the city's central square. Palazzo Reale and Palazzo Madama are two grand Savoy palaces located on the piazza. Just off the north end of the square are two churches: the Duomo and San Lorenzo. The Turin Shroud is hidden away in a large black marble box in the Duomo, but there is a small museum in San Lorenzo with a full-size reproduction on view. Views from the top of the Mole at sunset are stunning, but beware that on sunny weekends the wait for the lift can be more than one hour. Just south of Piazza Castello is the Egyptian Museum (Museo Egizio) featuring the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts outside Cairo. Farther south, across Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, is the Civic Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art (GAM), and still farther south in Lingotto, is the tiny but perfect Giovanni and Marella Agnelli Picture Gallery.
Note that most of Turin's sights and museums are closed on Monday, as are many shops and restaurants. All sights are closed on Christmas day, New Year's Day, Easter and All Saints' Day (1 November). Most attractions and museums do not accept credit cards for admission.
It is highly recommended that you purchase a Torino+Piemonte Card if you plan to do any sightseeing in Turin. The card is available in 2-, 3-, 5- and 7-day versions and allows free admission to more than 150 museums, monuments, royal residences and fortresses throughout Turin and Piedmont, as well as free access to the Torino Tourism Bus, to the panoramic lift in the Mole Antonelliana, to the boats for river navigation on the Po and to the rack tramway Sassi-Superga. It also allows for reductions on guided tours, as well as on theater, opera and concert tickets. The Torino+Piemonte Card varies in cost: 2 days, 18 euros; 3 days, 20 euros; five days, 30 euros; one week, 35 euros. Purchase the card at any tourist office or transport station, or ask your hotel concierge, as many keep a stock of cards to sell to guests.
Two useful Web sites for up-to-the-minute information on current exhibits and hours are http://www.extratorino.it and http://www.comune.torino.it. Probably the most efficiently run outfit, though, is the Turismo Torino office, which will give you the best information on museums, events, shows, bed-and-breakfasts and hotels. http://www.turismotorino.org.
Recreation
There are many opportunities for recreation in and around Turin. The Alps are an hour's drive away and offer summer and winter activities: mountain-biking and hiking trails, river-rafting, horseback riding, world-class downhill and cross-country skiing and snowboarding. Lifts and runs were upgraded for the Olympics. Visit http://www.torinopiemonte.com for more information on places to ski/snowboard, cross-country ski or play golf.
Nightlife
Turin is a young city with a thriving nightlife of bars, restaurants, cafes and clubs. Turin's clubs don't usually get going until after 11 pm but the city comes alive well before then; at 6 pm people gather at their favorite bar for an after-work drink called
aperitivo. Two of the most popular after-work beverages, Martini and Cinzano, are made in Turin. Sparkling wine, either Prosecco or Spumante, is another popular
aperitivo.
The Torinese have taken the Italian custom of aperitivo to new heights. Establishments compete with each other to offer the most bountiful and splendid buffets during the period between 6 and 9 pm. For the price of a drink, you can help yourself to a lavish selection of food including pasta, tiny pizza, stuffed tomatoes, bruschetta, mushroom caps, olives and crisps. Drinks cost one or two euros more than usual, or you may be charged an extra two euros for the buffet. The food is meant to whet the appetite, but you will see many Torinese students tucking into what looks like their evening meal.
The two most popular areas of Turin for aperitivo are Via Po and around Piazza Vittorio Veneto and in the lanes of the Roman Quarter (Il Quadrilatero). Just northwest of the Roman quarter is an area known as Borgo Dora, an abandoned industrial district that has been taken over by all-night clubs and discos. Prepare to take a taxi both ways, as buses stop running before the clubs open. A row of dance clubs is located along the Po River that have outdoor dancing in the summer months. Turin also has a number of English and Irish pubs, especially along Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.
Performing Arts
During the Savoy reign, the performing arts existed only to please the monarchy. Public concerts were rare; most performances were held in one of the Savoy palaces for members of the ruling elite. Turin's opera house, Teatro Regio (inaugurated in 1681), was the only public theater until the 19th century. Needless to say, opera was very popular and the great Italian composers Rossini, Verdi and Puccini had their works performed there, as did the Austrian composers Wagner and Strauss.
Piedmont has a long tradition of puppet theater that developed out of commedia dell'arte in the 18th century. Commedia dell'arte is an Italian theatrical tradition with a specific cast of characters, including a Harlequin character and a Punch-like clown called Pulcinella. Certain Italian cities identified themselves with characters in commedia dell'Arte. Naples is forever associated with Pulcinella, Turin is associated with Gianduja, from whom the name of the chocolate confection gianduiotto is derived. Gianduja has a big red nose and wears a three-pointed hat, and he is often the central character in the free Sunday afternoon productions held at Borgo Medievale in summer.
Turin has a variety of small theater and dance companies and an RAI orchestra and chamber-music ensemble that performs in various venues. Only the opera company has its own dedicated theater.
Spectator Sports
Turin has two football teams: Torino FC (http://www.torinofc.it) and the internationally popular Juventus FC (http://www.juventus.it). They play at Delle Alpi Stadium and the renovated Olympic Stadium (previously the 1930s-era Municipal Stadium). Tickets can be purchased at tobacco shops or via the clubs themselves. Tickets for the most important matches of Juventus, especially, are extremely difficult to acquire, but many of the smaller neighborhood bars will have large-screen TVs tuned to the games.
Shopping
Turin is an excellent city for shopping because prices are 30% less than in Milan, Florence or Rome. Italy is the best place to buy accessories no matter what city you visit, and Turin is no exception. There is an abundance of leather and shoe shops and great deals on belts, bags, scarves, hats and gloves—especially leather gloves.
Turin has beautiful cashmere sweaters and cardigans in a great variety of colors and styles at reasonable prices. This is the city to purchase skiwear and sports clothing, mountain and hiking clothing and footwear. You will notice the many nice jackets and coats in the shop windows as well as large selections of boots.
Turin has more bookshops than any other city in Italy and is considered the country's literary capital. And its oversupply of chocolate and sweets shops is a hazard to anyone attempting to maintain a bellafigura.
Shopping Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-7:30 pm. Generally, shops are closed Monday, but some may open on Monday afternoon, and some may open for a short time on Sunday. Small boutiques and other specialty shops that are owner-operated will close for lunch between 1 and 3 pm.
Day Trips
To
Sestriere. A prime ski resort built in the 1930s by Gianni Agnelli. In 2006, it hosted the ski events of the Winter Olympics. Less than one hour west of Turin, it is a friendly yet fashionable ski resort that has had all its facilities and lifts upgraded for the Olympics. Contact the tourist board for information and a map of "The Milky Way," a network of ski lifts and runs that straddles the Italian/French border. It is possible to ski to France and arrange for a bus to drive you back to Italy.
To Alba. Alba is a one-hour's drive south of Turin. It is the white-truffle capital of the world and the center of a wine region known for producing both the king and queen of wines: Barolo and Barbaresco. This region is called the Langhe, and it is developing a reputation as the new Tuscany because of its vineyard-covered hills and fortified hilltop towns. The people are friendly, and the wine prices still reasonable. The Langhe boasts more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other region in Italy.
To Stupinigi. This large palace was the favorite hunting lodge of the Savoy dynasty. The grand building was designed by Filippo Juvarra and so were the residences on both sides of the road approaching the palace. Stupinigi was once the residence of Paulina Bonaparte and Camillo Borghese. The interior decor follows a hunting theme with many representations of wildlife, especially deer. There are some interesting paintings, but the ballroom, with its immense crystal chandelier, is definitely worth a visit.
Dining Overview
Piedmont is a large region where grains such as risotto (rice) and polenta (corn) are grown in the Po River Valley. Cheese and high-quality meats are to be found in Valle Maira and Valle Grana in the Alps, and Langhe produces Barolo and Barbaresco wines as well as chestnuts, hazelnuts, mushrooms and the world-famous white truffles.
The Savoy dynasty transformed Turin into a glamorous city, attracting chefs, architects and artists from throughout Europe. Although the capital of Italy was later moved to Rome, the influence on the cuisine of the region can still be felt today. Piedmontese cuisine uses sauces that reflect a French influence, and there is a decidedly Austrian influence in its cakes. Turin is the birthplace of the sweet treat gianduiotto, a chocolate and hazelnut confection that dates back to the 19th century, and it also claims that solid chocolate was invented there (a royal decree issued in 1678 authorized its production for export). Turin has a great many historic cafes and chocolate shops: Caffe Forio is an old baroque cafe dating back to 1750 where the Savoy family would gather, and Platti is from the art-nouveau period that took Turin by storm in the early 1900s. Gianni Agnelli, the late chairman director of Fiat, formed the soccer team Juventus at one of its tables.
Over the past 10 years, there has been a steady increase in not only the volume of restaurants but the quality as well. The region has nine Michelin-star restaurants—many of them chef-owned and serving traditional regional dishes with new, creative twists. The wines of the region, most famously Barbaresco and Barolo, become more interesting when consumed with local cuisine. Today, it is the restaurateurs who are preserving many of the traditional Piedmontese recipes that are time-consuming and difficult to prepare at home, such as tajarin, a remarkably light, hand-rolled pasta or agnolotti del plin, a small, handmade ravioli that is closed with a pinch (the Piedmontese word is plin). Families often go out to enjoy many of the traditional dishes rather than prepare them at home; fortunately, there is no shortage of good restaurants. It is no coincidence that the Slow Food Movement is headquartered in Piedmont. This movement was founded in the town of Bra in the 1980s, and its members take pride in bringing to light the effects of fast food and modern growing techniques on culture, specifically the loss of diverse culinary traditions and recipes.
In May and June and from September to mid-November, it is wise to call ahead for a weekend lunch or dinner reservation, especially if there are more than four people in your party. If you don't have a reservation, arrive early, which in Piedmont is 8 pm. It is polite to notify the restaurant if you need to cancel. Dining is an experience not to be rushed. Dinner generally begins at 8 pm, and it's acceptable to occupy the table for the entire night. It is also not unusual to see tables sitting empty waiting for guests who don't arrive until 9:30 pm. Restaurants and many osterias (taverns/bars) open at 12:30 or 1 pm for lunch and generally do not serve past 2:30 pm. If you want a quick meal, look for a cafe with meal service, as they typically serve food throughout most of the day or night. Don't feel you must order every course at every meal. However, ordering only a single course at dinner is considered impolite.
Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks or tip: $ = less than 10 euros; $$ = 11 euros-25 euros; $$$ = 26 euros-50 euros; and $$$$ = more than 50 euros.
Tax is almost always included in the price of meals. In establishments where you eat sitting down, your bill will generally include coperto, a type of cover charge. Some restaurants will automatically include a service charge, so be sure you look at the bill. Italians are not known to tip much, if at all; tourists are expected to tip 10%-12%.
Personal Safety
Turin is a relatively safe city by day and night. Tourists are not specifically targets of crime, but it is always advisable to be aware of your surroundings, especially near the Porta Nuova train/bus station. Women can walk alone in the evening without fear of being accosted or approached. Be aware that at night, certain areas in the Parco Valentino become pick-up places for gays.
Health
Medical facilities are generally very good, and the water, although heavily chlorinated, is safe to drink. You'll see that locals stick to bottled water, but it's a matter of preference—the tap water is fine. Turin can get particularly hot in summer—carrying a bottle of water can help prevent dehydration. Also, as everywhere, don't forget your most comfortable pair of walking shoes, as Turin is a city best seen on foot.
Travelers in need of a pharmacy should know that most are open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-1 pm and 3:30-7 pm.
Disabled Advisory
Turin is a modern city and is better than most Italian cities for disabled access to transport and public buildings. Many of the newer trams and buses are equipped for wheelchairs. Contact Informa Handicap for additional information (phone 011-442-1631).
Dos & Don'ts
Do plan out your shopping and errands carefully, as shops keep somewhat short and irregular hours.
Do check the fine print to make sure your train runs on Sunday and holidays. Many do not.
Do pack some lightweight pants or long shorts for summer in the city. Turin can be hot and sticky, and men generally do not wear shorts, certainly not at dinner.
Do not worry about language barriers in Turin the same way you might in other parts of Italy. The Torinese are generally pretty handy with English.
Hotel Overview
Once upon a time, Turin was not particularly well-known for its hotels, as it rarely received the influx of tourists that most other cities in Italy did. After the Olympics in 2006, though, much of that has changed, as many previously dreary hotels have been refurbished and brought up to speed with the rest of the country. Bedrooms tend to be large, the beds comfortable and the service more efficient than almost anywhere else in Italy. Newer hotels are located south of the city center in Lingotto, where many of the Olympic stadiums and venues are located. The disadvantage to staying there is that you must take a tram or cab to see the major sights or to have a choice of restaurants.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Canada and the U.S. need only a passport. Check travel document requirements with your carrier before departing.
Population: 1,660,000.
Languages: Italian.
Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).
Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.
Telephone Codes: 39, country code; 011,city code;
Currency Exchange
The best way to access money is to use ATMs, called
bancomats. There are two at the airport and many in and around Turin. Most
bancomats have a choice of languages, and English is an option. Your bank may charge you a premium, but it is worth the time saved waiting at a bank. It also allows the withdrawal of small amounts of cash, which is desirable for reasons of personal safety.
Taxes
VAT (value-added tax), called IVA in Italy, is added to goods and services and can be refunded to non-European Union residents. With a little paperwork, visitors can obtain a tax refund for purchases of more than 180 euros from one visit to a single store. Refunds usually amount to about 13%-16% of the purchase price. If you choose to apply for the refund when you leave Italy, you will need to present three things to the VAT refund officer at the airport: the article you purchased, the receipt and a refund form (which must be picked up at the place of purchase). Without these three things, your refund will be denied. Note that only
unused articles are eligible for a refund: If the article looks used, you won't get your money back. If everything is in order, the VAT refund officer will give you a final form to be mailed in for your refund. (For your own convenience, see the VAT officer before checking your bags and have your purchases in an easy-to-reach place.)
Some larger stores have a streamlined process: They handle most of the paperwork and then mail the refund to you, sometimes minus a fee. Private VAT refund services, located at the airport, will give you an immediate refund minus a fee, which is usually a percentage of the refund.
Tipping
Italians don't tip because service is often included in the bill. But they won't necessarily admit to it in the hopes of receiving a more generous tip. Italians will round up the bill and add an extra few euros if the service has been very good, or if they are well-known in the restaurant.
Weather
Turin is hot and humid in summer, cold and crisp with the possibility of snow in winter. Spring and autumn tend to be rainier, but there is often a beam of sun breaking through by the end of the day. Miles/kilometers of colonnaded walkways in Turin mean that you aren't exposed to the rain while shopping in the center.
What to Wear
Turin is a more casual city than Milan or Florence, and people tend to dress informally even for business meetings. It is acceptable to turn up at a restaurant without a jacket or tie; and even though as Italians, the Torinese are obsessed with shoes, you see many more people wearing comfortable shoes and trainers (sneakers) than in other cities in Italy. Women tend to wear skirts and boots in the daytime and casual trousers in the evenings. However, in keeping with the rest of Italy, women will don their most recent fashionable purchases for the Sunday afternoon stroll or
passeggiata. Turin's proximity to the Alps means that evenings can be chilly, so it is advisable to take a wrap or cardigan even in the summer. Mosquito repellant may also be a good idea in the summer because of the city's proximity to a number of lakes.
Telephone
Within Italy, the three-digit code for Turin is 011—every Turin telephone number begins with these three numbers. Pay phones generally take telephone cards, which you can buy at most bars and newspaper stands, and anywhere that sells cigarettes. These also include cards with discounted rates for a particular country, such as a U.S. or Australian card. Cell-phone coverage is good in rural areas and excellent in the city, although many buildings in Italy have such thick walls that it blocks out coverage completely and you must go outside or near a window to make a call.
Newspapers & Magazines
Turin does not have an English-language magazine. However, check the Web site of the Turin tourist board (http://www.turismotorino.org) for entertainment listings, as well as http://www.extratorino.it and http://www.torinocultura. All three Web sites have English-language online pages.
Turin's major newspaper is the highly regarded La Stampa, although you are more likely to find the occasional English-language insert inside Milan's Corriere della Sera, also widely available.
Transportation
Turin International Airport (also called Caselle) is 10 mi/16 km north of the city center. It can be reached through a main road or Turin's ring road, which—thanks to its junction with the motorway network—connects it quickly to the major cities of northern Italy and southern France. The ride into/from the city center to the airport is 20 minutes (30 minutes during peak traffic hours). http://www.aeroportoditorino.it.
Bus
Turin's efficient bus and tram network, which runs from 5 am to midnight, is operated by GTT (Gruppo Torinese Trasporti). Bus and tram routes are clearly indicated on large signs at the stops. Trams serve the city center; buses go farther afield. Tickets are valid across the network and can be purchased at bars and newsagents or at the GTT office at Porta Nuova, the central bus and train station located on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.
A single ticket is 0.90 euros and is valid for 70 minutes. A block of 15 tickets is 12.50 euros. Tickets must be stamped in the machines on board. An all-day pass is 3 euros, and a shopping (negozio) pass is valid for four hours at a cost of 1.80 euros.
Useful tram routes are the No. 4, 9, 13 and 15. The No. 4 travels north-south, the No. 13 travels east-west, the No. 9 travels northwest-southeast and the No. 15 travels northeast-southwest.
Calendar
Food, music and film festivals will keep any visitor to Turin busy. Music lovers, in particular, have a full calendar of events from which to choose. Settembre Musica, an annual festival that lasts for the entire month of September, features top quality concerts, from symphonies and chamber music to jazz and new-age music. In October, Music Fair attracts more than 200,000 visitors to six days of concerts at the Lingotto Exhibition Centre. For opera lovers, the Regio Theatre stages marvelous performances year-round.
Chocoholics won't want to miss the annual chocolate festival in March. And food lovers have Salone del Gusto, a series of events "dedicated to the knowledge and pleasure of food," to look forward to in September. More than a dozen Slow Tours, which allow participants to visit interesting food and wine areas in the Piedmont, are offered during Salone del Gusto, as well as Dinner Dates at more than 30 restaurants and dozens of food education workshops.
The International Women's Cinema Festival, showcasing features, shorts and documentaries by and about women, takes place in March. The Turin Film Festival is held in November.
For detailed information about upcoming events in the Turin area, contact Turismo Torino. Phone 011-535-181. http://www.torinoturismo.com.
To call numbers listed in this calendar from outside Italy, you must first dial your country's international access code, followed by Italy's country code, 39. Turin's city code of 011 must always be dialed, regardless of whether you are calling in Turin or outside the city. Note that phone numbers may not have the same number of digits.
Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.
