Ukraine Travel Guide

The natural charms of Ukraine are slowly supplanting the dismal Soviet legacy that has deterred so many visitors in the past. Despite the ominous ruins of Chernobyl (the corroded nuclear reactor there is now a tourist attraction) and the economic hardships that have persisted since the dissolution of the Soviet Union, we've found much to enjoy in Ukraine—from roaming its rolling countryside, where villages are set amid silver birches, to basking in the aging grandeur of Yalta or exploring nightclubs in the sophisticated capital city, Kiev.

Kiev has transformed itself into an outpost of Western Europe amid a sea of Soviet-style cities. The cafe culture has returned, with elegant bars and restaurants vying for trade among foreign visitors, entrepreneurs and local gangsters. Young Ukrainians wear stylish clothes—they're probably the best-dressed young people of any city in the former Soviet Union (except, perhaps, for Moscow).

The countryside west of Kiev is particularly charming. In fields and gardens surrounding green-painted cottages, villagers grow sunflowers, potatoes, apples and corn in the rich black earth that earned Ukraine the title, "breadbasket of the Soviet Union." In these places, simple Ukrainian life seems not to have changed for centuries.

Yet many aspects of Soviet life have lingered in Ukraine. While Ukrainian is the official language, people in the eastern and southern portions of the country, especially Crimea, continue to speak Russian. Many government leaders, including former President Leonid Kuchma, held powerful positions during the Soviet regime. Even current President Viktor Yushchenko was a card-carrying member of the Communist Party.

Tourism development in the country has improved greatly in the past few years. Many new hotels and restaurants have been built in major cities such as Kiev, Odessa, Donetsk and Yalta. With them has come a new emphasis on customer service, but anyone going to Ukraine should be aware that glitches and delays are commonplace. The key to enjoying a trip to Ukraine is to be flexible, tolerant and patient. Be prepared to expend a lot of energy just to get through the day. Although your trip might not be relaxing, a glimpse of this colorful part of the world will definitely be worth the effort.

History

Located in the flat, geographic center of Europe, Ukraine has often had outside visitors: Scythians, Goths, Huns, Khazars and Avars invaded the land in its early days. In the ninth century, these diverse peoples were united by Scandinavian traders, who conquered the area and established a kingdom in Kiev. The kingdom, called Kievan Rus, formed the basis of the Belarusian, Russian and Ukrainian nationalities. Kievan Rus reached its apex under Yaroslav the Wise, who unwisely split his kingdom among his sons in 1054. The power of these princedoms dwindled, and in the 13th century the people were completely overrun by the Mongol invasion. The Mongols were finally driven back in the late 14th century, and Ukraine was absorbed by Lithuania, then Poland and finally Russia.

In Czarist Russia, Ukraine was considered little more than a province of the Russian Empire and the Ukrainian language was banned. A resurgence of nationalism began in the middle of the 19th century, thanks to exiled national poet Taras Shevchenko, who sought to promote and further the development of the language and culture. Shortly after the October Revolution in 1917, Ukraine declared independence, but this freedom was short-lived, snuffed out by advancing Red Army troops little more than a year later.

Under Stalin, a heavy-handed Russification program of Ukraine took place. The Ukrainian language was again banned, and more than 7 million Ukrainians died during a mass famine, called the Holodomar, in 1932-33. Following World War II, Stalin resettled millions of ethnic Russians in Ukraine's heavily industrialized east in order to foster the development of the Russian language in these areas and curb the growth of Ukrainian nationalism.

Chernobyl, a small town near the border with Belarus, was the site of the world's worst nuclear accident in late April 1986. It made world headlines after a fire broke out in one of its reactors. Radiation spewed into the atmosphere, contaminating hundreds of thousands of acres/hectares of productive farmland and forcing the evacuation of several hundred thousand people. More than 1,000 people died trying to put out the fire and contain the radiation. The area around the reactor, now virtually deserted, is off-limits to the general public.

During World War II, one consequence of the Yalta conference had been that Ukraine became a full member of the United Nations (the U.S.S.R. took three seats in all). In 1991, the Ukrainian delegation used its seat to justify the nation's independence. During a referendum in the fall of 1991, Ukrainians voted overwhelmingly in favor of independence. After negotiations with Russia over the Crimean peninsula, which has remained a part of Ukraine, and the port city of Sevastopol and its Black Sea naval fleet, the two countries signed a friendship accord, which seems to have lessened tensions in the region considerably.

Despite independence, rampant inflation and government corruption weakened Ukraine's economy. In November 2004, millions of Ukrainians took to the streets in Kiev, Lviv and other cities to protest the alleged rigging of the presidential elections. The bloodless protests, dubbed the Orange Revolution, lasted for more than a month in subzero temperatures and forced a new round of elections. The winner, the reform-minded Yushchenko, has ushered in a new era in Ukraine's relations with the west. Ukraine now seeks membership in the World Trade Organization, NATO and the European Union.

Snapshot

The main attractions of Ukraine include antiquities, mountains, cathedrals, Black Sea beaches, art, historical sites, relics of Soviet culture and the historical sections of Kiev, Yalta and Lviv.

Experienced travelers who are flexible and open-minded will enjoy Ukraine. Deluxe accommodations and dining can be found in all major cities. Nightlife has also improved dramatically in recent years, and Kiev and Odessa can compete with leading European cities in this regard.

Potpourri

Ukraine no longer has a nuclear arsenal. Since the ending of Cold War hostilities, the 1,900 strategic warheads and silos that littered the countryside south of Kiev have been removed and destroyed. The region, traditionally Ukraine's agricultural region, has been returned to wheat and sunflower crops.

The western portion of Ukraine is predominantly Catholic, and the eastern half of the country adheres to the Orthodox faith.

In the past, Crimean politicians have made moves toward declaring independence or joining with Russia, but Ukraine is determined to keep its hold on the region, largely because it guards Kiev's access to the Black Sea.

Ukrainians have developed a sophisticated shadow economy, undeclared to the authorities. Transactions range from old women selling fruits and vegetables on the sidewalk to cash sales for top-of-the-line BMWs.

About 70% of the words of the Russian and Ukrainian languages are the same.

Kiev's Independence Square is the location for the Ukrainian version of Speakers' Corner in London's Hyde Park. Drop by to see unlimited free speech (and unlimited heckling) in action.

Kiev boasts the world's deepest subway. It doubles as a fallout shelter.

The poet dearest to the heart of a Ukrainian is Taras Shevchenko (1814-61), whose collection of poems, Kobzar, helped fuel Ukrainian nationalism in the years before his death.

Cossack cavalry troops, made up of fierce fighters who symbolized Ukraine's independent nature, were used in combat as recently as World War II. They were quite successful in winter operations, when subzero temperatures froze all mechanized equipment.

Ukraine's flag, a horizontal stripe of light blue set above a stripe of wheat yellow, symbolizes the richness of its agriculture under an endless sky.

Like most Slavs, Ukrainians use a patronymic (modification of their father's first name) as their middle name, and use first and middle names in all situations. A male named Oleksandr, with a father named Volodymyr, is called Oleksandr Volodymyrovytch. In formal conversation, he would be addressed not with a title such as Mr., but by calling him Oleksandr Volodymyrovytch.

Recreation

Ukraine offers many types of outdoor adventures. In Kiev, horseback riding has become a popular pastime; many clubs offer opportunities to ride both in the city and in the surrounding countryside. The Carpathian Mountains in the southwest and much of the south coast of Crimea are popular for climbing, hiking, spelunking and mountain-biking enthusiasts. In the southwest and extreme southeast of Ukraine, there are some excellent rivers for canoeing and kayaking. Sailing and most watersports are common in Kiev and off the Black Sea coast resorts of Odessa and Yalta. Big-game hunting can still be pursued in the rugged west and southwest of the country.

Shopping

Shop for fur caps, caviar, vodka, avos'ka (knit bags), rushniks (decorative towels), hand-painted pysank and krashenki (Easter eggs), plates and wall plaques from Petrikivka (a village famed for its ceramics), wood and metal sculpture, hand-painted lacquerware, and balalaikas and other musical instruments. In most places, souvenirs are sold in outdoor stalls near the center of town. The operative rule is to buy it when you see it—supplies of everything are limited. Window shopping can be fun, but actually buying something in a larger store may involve standing in several long lines before receiving your purchase. Some shops will not allow new customers to enter if it is less than 30 minutes before closing.

Shopping Hours: Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 10 am-6 pm. Some stores and businesses retain the Soviet-era practice of closing for lunch from 1-2 pm, but most remain open throughout the day.

Day By Day

It used to be that there were only two ways to see Ukraine: escorted tour or prepaid independent travel (which includes business travel and homestays). We think first-timers should take an escorted tour, but shop around when it comes to hotels, because many of the best ones are much more expensive than they would be in the West.

Day 1—Arrive Kiev.

Day 2—Kiev. Tour the city.

Day 3—Kiev and depart for Yalta. Overnight.

Day 4—Yalta. Excursions to nearby resorts.

Day 5—Depart for Lviv.

Day 6—Lviv. Depart for Kiev.

Day 7—Kiev. Depart Ukraine.

Dining Overview

Ukrainian cuisine is hearty and substantial. Choices abound, and making reservations and dining out can be a wonderful experience in color, taste, music and hospitality. Among our favorite Ukrainian dishes are the marvelous Ukrainian borscht, Lviv sausage and, of course, chicken Kiev. In the summer, when vegetables are plentiful, you'll find okroshka, a cold soup made from cucumbers, potatoes, radishes, dill sausage and buttermilk. In Crimea, several Tatar dishes are worth sampling: lagman, a hearty soup with meat, noodles and a spicy broth; plov, spicy rice with meat and carrots; and shashlik, kebabs with different kinds of meat.

Most dishes include potatoes, the "second bread" for Slavs. Ukrainians say that you should drink pepper horilka (vodka) with your meal for a feeling of real paradise. Other people will joke about the popular snack known as "Ukrainian Snickers"—vodka and salo (cured pork fat)—which are eaten in small bites or with bread.

In recent years, Ukraine has experienced an explosion in the growth and development of its restaurant industry. Diners in most major cities, but especially in Kiev, can choose from restaurants serving top-notch French, Italian or German cuisines. More exotic fare includes Georgian, Indian, Korean and Chinese. Japanese sushi restaurants are popular in Kiev as well as in Yalta, Dnipropetrovsk and Donetsk, particularly among the country's political and cultural elite.

Overview

Ukraine has experienced considerable political unrest in recent years. Squabbling and scandals in government have stalled reform, and the political divide between the more nationalist west and the Russian-speaking east has grown.

The political situation had stabilized since legislative elections in September 2007 resulted in Yulia Tymoshenko, a charismatic heroine of the orange revolution, returning as prime minister and allied with Viktor Yushchenko's presidency. However, their relationship proved uneasy and in October 2008 Yushchenko dissolved parliament and set fresh parliamentary elections for 7 December 2008.

In view of worries about Moscow's attitude in the longer term and ongoing uncertainty about what the future may hold, Ukraine's risk rating has been set at 7. Crime that often targets visitors is also a major concern.

Monitor local media, remain alert and avoid demonstrations.

Overview

High-risk Areas
None.

Political/social/economic conditions

Ukraine considers gaining membership in the European Union as its primary foreign-policy objective. It has a close relationship with NATO and hopes to be approved as a candidate for membership of the alliance when NATO foreign ministers meet in December 2008--it already is a member of the Partnership for Peace. However, Russia is keen to maintain its own influence in the country and has been working to turn Ukraine away from Western influences, a situation that has contributed to infighting within the Ukrainian government.

President Viktor Yushchenko is regarded as a pro-Western liberal reformer. He promises to build a nation in which there is freedom, democracy and rule of law, and he has said he wants to heal divisions in the country. However, the optimism that followed the Orange Revolution has faded for many Ukrainians. Economic growth has slowed, and prices have risen. One of Yushchenko's key pledges was to fight corruption. In a country where business and politics remain closely entwined, achieving progress has turned out to be tricky. Yushchenko himself has faced allegations of cronyism.

Months of wrangling to form a government followed parliamentary elections in 2006, in which Yushchenko's Our Ukraine Party took third place in parliamentary elections; the Party of Regions led by his former rival for the presidency, Viktor Yanukovych, was well in front. Eventually a coalition headed by Our Ukraine proposed Yanukovych as prime minister; Yushchenko approved the nomination, saying it offered a chance to unite the country.

The cohabitation between Yushchenko and Yanukovych proved uneasy. Differing interpretations of the constitution led to disagreements about the respective roles of president, prime minister, cabinet and parliament. On 2 April 2007, Yushchenko issued a decree dissolving parliament and ordering new elections to be held on 27 May 2007. Both the government and parliament refused to recognize the president's decree and instead forwarded it to the constitutional court to rule on its legality.

On 26 April, Yushchenko issued another decree superseding his earlier one. The new decree again ordered the dissolution of parliament but extended the date for fresh elections to 24 June 2007. Parliament again forwarded the decree to the constitutional court.

The political situation remained deadlocked until the end of May 2007, when all concerned agreed on a compromise package of measures to end the crisis. This package included provision for early parliamentary elections to be held on 30 September 2007. Shortly before the poll, Yushchenko and former prime minister Yulia Tymoshenko struck a deal to form a coalition in parliament, under which the president would make Tymoshenko his prime minister. Final poll results, released in mid-October 2007, showed that Yushchenko and Tymoshenko had won enough for a thin majority in parliament.

After 10 weeks of political wrangling, parliament appointed Tymoshenko prime minister--the opposition boycotted the vote. Tymoshenko's telegenic style and scathing attacks on Ukraine's political and industrial elite, as well as the perceived influence of Moscow on the country, have won her a large popular following, particularly in western Ukraine.

However, her critics have accused her of unpredictability and opportunism, and have pointed out that she herself reportedly made a fortune in the energy sector in the 1990s. Her first challenge is to keep together the Our Ukraine orange coalition of 10 parties.

In June 2008, two deputies quit the coalition, depriving it of its majority in parliament and leading observers to speculate on the possibility of a new coalition or a fresh election. Some of Yushchenko's supporters cannot stand Tymoshenko, and Yushchenko may feel justifiably threatened by her as a potential presidential candidate in 2010. Tensions between the pair deepened during the Russian-Georgian war in August 2008, with Yushchenko supporting Tbilisi and charging Tymoshenko with "treason" for her more neutral stance.

The coalition fell apart in September 2008 when Yushchenko's party pulled out in protest at Tymoshenko's decision to support a bid by the pro-Russian opposition to reduce the president's powers. Some analysts said the main aim of the president's decision to dissolve parliament and order new elections was to eliminate Tymoshenko. Her government will, however, remain in place until a new one can be formed.

With rich farmlands, a well-developed industrial base, highly trained labor and a good education system, Ukraine has the potential to become a major European economy. Although countries of the former Soviet Union remain important trading partners--especially Russia and Turkmenistan for energy imports--Ukraine's trade is becoming more diversified, with Europe now the destination for more than 33% of exports.

In May 2008, Ukraine became a fully fledged member of the World Trade Organization, giving it the opportunity to negotiate even better access to its two biggest markets, the EU and Russia. Meanwhile, as a result of lower export prices and easing external and domestic demand growth, analysts expect annual gross domestic product growth to slow to an average of 6.1% in 2008.

In July 2008 the International Monetary Fund expressed anxiety about the country's unsustainable inflation rate which, because of strong global growth in food prices and rising energy prices, is forecast by some analysts to exceed 20% by the end of the year.

Political/social/economic conditions

Historical background
A presidential election in November 2004, which opposition and international observers said was rigged, sparked the so-called Orange Revolution with large-scale demonstrations in Kiev and other cities.

The stage was set for political upheaval when former President Leonid Kuchma proposed constitutional amendments in advance of the 2004 elections that observers said would have enabled him to shape the political agenda and, therefore, the election. Noisy protests and international criticism forced abandonment of some of the more contentious amendments, including one that would have allowed the president to be elected by parliament, rather than directly by voters.

As candidates positioned themselves for the vote, a number of attacks on opposition candidates were reported, including an attempted assassination by poison on Viktor Yushchenko, then the leading presidential candidate.

In the first round of voting in October 2004, Kuchma's hand-picked successor, then-Prime Minister Viktor Yanukovych, and Yushchenko each received 39% of the vote. Yanukovych was declared the victor of a second round of voting, but opposition and international observers said the election had been corrupted by fraud. Tens of thousands of opposition supporters immediately held nationwide protests, and Yushchenko headed a rally in Kiev during which he declared himself president and took an oath of office.

As the protests continued and spread around the country, the Ukrainian Supreme Court decided to nullify the November runoff election and to hold a new one on 26 December 2004. The result of this rerun was a win for Yushchenko, who took 52% of the vote.

Although international observers said the rerun had been much fairer than the earlier vote, Yanukovych said constitutional and human rights had been violated, and he made four appeals to the Supreme Court. All were rejected; in January 2005, Ukraine's electoral commission declared Yushchenko the official winner of the presidential election.

Political/social/economic conditions

Border and regional issues
The country has generally friendly relations with its neighbors, especially Poland.

Given Yushchenko's pro-Western views, there is close interest in future relations between Ukraine and Russia. Relations with Russia are complicated by energy dependence and by payment arrears. On 1 January 2008, Russia stopped all gas supplies to Ukraine after the collapse of talks to end a row over unpaid bills and prices. Ukraine insisted it has paid off its debts but Russia contested this--the two countries also failed to agree on a price for 2009.

The European Union urged Russia and Ukraine to resume negotiations and not to let the dispute disrupt supplies to Europe which pass through Ukraine. A similar row at the beginning of 2006 led to gas shortages in several EU countries.

Ukraine became a member of the Commonwealth of Independent States in 1991. The country also is a founding member of Georgia-Ukraine-Uzbekistan-Azerbaijan-Moldova group, an assembly of Western-oriented former Soviet states that would prefer to limit CIS authority to economic relations.

Political/social/economic conditions

Racial and ethnic tensions
Anti-Semitic attacks occur regularly. Unprovoked racially motivated assaults on individuals of African and Asian heritage also have occurred, even in areas commonly frequented by tourists, and reportedly have increased in frequency recently.

In mid-July 2008 Amnesty International said more than 60 people had been targeted in racist violence in 2007, six of whom had died. More than 30 people had suffered in racist attacks since the beginning of 2008 and at least four were killed.

Ultra-right-wing groups and skinheads have been blamed for arson attacks and vandalism at synagogues and other Jewish-affiliated locations in Ukraine. In March 2007, embassies in Kiev issued a specific warning of racially motivated violence in Ukraine's capital. Non-Caucasian visitors sometimes have been targeted for official harassment by police.

Southern Ukraine is home to a sizeable Chechen population, and the country serves as a shipping point for weapons and explosives to Chechnya. Military equipment and sophisticated weaponry are available on the black market. It is believed that Chechens regularly (and illegally) try to cross the borders of Ukraine, and the activities of some of them may pose additional hazards.

Friction between Tatars and the majority ethnic Russians in the autonomous Crimean Republic periodically leads to confrontations.

Political/social/economic conditions

Civil unrest
Sporadic strikes, demonstrations and protests have continued--now usually to protest increases in natural-gas and electricity prices. Recently, most have been small and peaceful, but because of political uncertainty, the possibility of civil unrest that could escalate into violence should not be discounted.

Political/social/economic conditions

Demonstrations and protests
Avoid large public gatherings and plan routes around any rallies or demonstrations. Government buildings, such as police stations, and businesses with foreign affiliations can provide a focus for anger and should be avoided. Remain alert to your surroundings and maintain a low profile--don't do, say or wear anything that would call undue attention to yourself. If violence breaks out, quickly but calmly move away and seek shelter in a hotel or large public building, such as a museum or library. Traffic and public transport may be disrupted; plan alternate routes you can use if roads are closed or blocked, and allow extra time for any travel in the area. If you encounter a roadblock or barricade erected by either demonstrators or security forces, be patient and avoid provoking a confrontation.

Political/social/economic conditions

Institutional corruption
Because of tolerance and apathy by authorities at lower levels, corruption remains an issue in Ukraine despite recent government efforts to combat it. In its 2008 report, corruption watchdog group Transparency International rated Ukraine at 118 out of 179 countries.

Political/social/economic conditions

Human-rights abuses
In May 2008, Amnesty International said that torture and ill treatment in police detention continue to be routine. Crowded conditions in police detention have led to high levels of tuberculosis. Domestic violence is widespread.

Also in May 2008, a local senior human-rights worker was accosted and badly injured by unidentified attackers. The authorities later said that the man had been deliberately attacked because of his human-rights activities.

Trafficking in women for the sex trade is a major concern. Some observers report that Ukraine is one of the largest exporters of women, many of them underage, to the sex industry. The government has enacted legislation to criminalize human trafficking but lacks the resources to combat the problem effectively.

Political/social/economic conditions

Land mines and unexploded ordnance
Ukraine has land mines of indeterminate number, most of them left over from World War II. Civilian casualties have occurred.

Political/social/economic conditions

Precautions against land mines/unexploded ordnance
In destinations with areas that have been contaminated with land mines or unexploded ordnance, never pick up any unidentified metal or plastic object. Report any finds to local authorities. Exercise caution around construction areas, as mines or ordnance could be uncovered during excavation. Travelers should be accompanied or briefed by guides familiar with mined areas. To the extent possible, remain on well-traveled roads, tracks and paths. Under no circumstances should you enter an area marked as mined.

Crime

Criminals view foreign nationals as lucrative targets, and visitors should be vigilant, keeping valuables and cash out of sight. Take particular care on public transportation and in crowded areas, especially tourist spots, where pickpockets and bag snatchers operate. Beware of accepting drinks, which could be spiked, from casual acquaintances in bars. If traveling by overnight train, it is safest to be accompanied by a trusted companion. Secure the compartment from the inside by tying the door closed with wire or cord.

Street crime ranges from pickpocketing and mugging to violent crimes such as armed robbery (sometimes with the aid of drugs to ensure the victim won't resist) and shootings.

Crime

Petty crime
The most common types of nonviolent property crime are auto vandalism, auto theft, and residential and office burglaries. There has been an increase in reported crimes, including gassings and robberies, on trains.

Embassies in Kiev have warned of a common criminal scam that involves a crook claiming to have found a lost wallet. If you're approached in that way, it's best to walk away without engaging the individual in conversation.

Crime

Violent crime
Violent property crimes, including carjackings, armed residential break-ins, and attacks in the hallways and elevators of residences, are rare but have been increasing. Use of weapons is becoming more common, so offer no resistance if confronted.

Crime

White-collar crime
ATM and credit-card fraud are major problems.

Crime

Credit-card fraud
In areas where credit-card fraud is a problem, keep an eye on your card during any transactions you make and get the card back as soon as you can. Void any incorrect receipts and destroy any carbons. Save your receipts, so you can compare them you’re your statement when it comes in. Make sure you have a record of account numbers and the phone number and address of the company issuing the card so that you can report any questionable charges as soon as possible. Notify the company immediately if your address changes. Don't leave receipts lying around, and never sign a blank receipt.

Crime

ATM safety
It's safer to use an ATM that's inside a store, bank, hotel or airport than a kiosk out on the street. Try to visit ATMs during daylight hours only. If you must go at night, try not to go alone. Be aware of your surroundings as you approach and leave the machine--if the situation looks suspicious or doesn't feel safe, go to another ATM or come back later. Memorize your PIN, and don't write it down anywhere, especially on your ATM card. Be sure no one can see you enter your PIN, and be aware of the practice of using camera phones to capture PINs. Put your money away before leaving the machine, and take any receipts with you. Never allow someone you don't know to "assist" you with the machine.

Crime

Organized crime
Organized crime gangs sometimes target foreign businesses for extortion and protection rackets. Businesspeople should pay close attention to security when establishing operations in Ukraine. Locally hired staff members and partners should be selected only after conducting background checks. Consider installing security hardware (reinforced doors, alarms, etc.) to protect office equipment and hiring security guards to protect property and personnel.

When using local service firms, such as banking, medical, legal and security services, provide as little personal information as possible. There are reports of people who work in these sectors passing information on to criminal gangs, which then use the knowledge to plan burglaries and extortion. In general, only business addresses and phone numbers should be provided.

Don't assume that confidential documents or computers used to store sensitive data will be secure in a hotel safe.

Crime

Drug-related crime
A significant drug culture exists, particularly in the Kotovskoho area of Odessa, sometimes called "Palermo" because of its mafia-style culture. Of that section's 52 houses, 49 reportedly produce the low-grade opium solution known locally as shirka, to which thousands are addicted.

Crime

Police effectiveness
Response has been described as adequate, but police experience shortages of equipment such as vehicles, fuel and communications equipment. The police force is understaffed and underpaid; language barriers may pose problems. Corruption is a significant problem. Police are not accustomed to dealing with loud or assertive individuals.

Some incidents of police harassment against individuals of Asian or African descent have been reported.

Natural hazards

Avalanches can occur in the Carpathian Mountains.

Health & medical care

Health care generally is poor in Ukraine.

Health & medical care

Medical facilities
Medical facilities are limited, and elderly or ailing individuals could be at risk.

In Kiev, the American Medical Center is a private clinic that offers its own insurance plan and provides basic outpatient and diagnostic services for a fee. Language barriers may be a problem for visitors who speak only English. Patients in hospitals are responsible for providing their own bandages, medication and food.

Perhaps the best way to get medical care for serious conditions is evacuation to Helsinki, Geneva, London or other cities in western Europe. This is an expensive option and may take several hours to secure. You should have medical evacuation insurance or substantial lines of credit to cover the cost. There are several European firms that provide private jet evacuations; the American Medical Center in Kiev can organize and assist with evacuation for a fee.

Health & medical care

Diseases
Because several serious diseases are endemic, it is important to seek medical advice before traveling to Ukraine.

Avian influenza was reported in the Crimean Peninsula in 2005, but no human cases have been reported so far.

A measles outbreak that began in February 2005 is ongoing in 27 administrative territories of the country. Most of the cases have been in people 15 years of age or older.

Diphtheria is common. Tick-borne encephalitis is common in wooded areas. Tuberculosis is widespread. Some 670,000 residents are now monitored by tuberculosis clinics, and the incidence of drug-resistant strains is a serious concern.

There is a high level of sexually transmitted diseases in Ukraine. HIV/AIDS reportedly has reached epidemic proportions; the United Nations estimates that 1.5 million people could be infected by 2010. Both HIV/AIDS and tuberculosis are mostly concentrated in the southern and eastern regions, but it's wise to take precautions no matter where you are in the country.

Health & medical care

Additional information
Drink only bottled water or public water that has been boiled.

Avoid purchasing produce on the street. Wild berries, mushrooms and wild game have been found to contain above-average levels of radiation, a consequence of the Chernobyl nuclear incident in 1986.

Transportation

Criminal activity and poor infrastructure can make travel hazardous in Ukraine.

Transportation

Road conditions
Roads in Ukraine are in generally poor condition and poorly lit. Major roads are passable during the day; travel between cities at night and in winter can be extremely treacherous. Roadside services such as gas stations and repair facilities are becoming more common but remain inadequate.

Drivers can be aggressive and often don't respect the rights of pedestrians.

Transportation

Public transportation
When traveling in a taxi, make sure the driver opens the trunk so that you can remove your luggage before exiting the vehicle, and don't close the passenger door until you have your belongings back in your possession.

Thefts on trains have been reported. Most frequently these occur in compartments that have been left unattended or in which the occupants are asleep.

Infrastructure

Facilities for travelers are improving but vary widely in quality and remain underdeveloped in many areas. Public facilities generally are not accessible to people with disabilities. Many establishments don't accept credit cards, and ATMs may not be available in smaller cities or towns. Transferring funds from overseas, as well as replacing lost or stolen items such as credit cards or airline tickets, can be very difficult.

Cell-phone coverage can be unreliable, although it has been improving.

Travel precautions

No matter how safe you perceive a destination to be, it's important to use good judgment.

• Pay attention to local media.
  
• Avoid open displays of wealth, jewelry or other valuables. Safeguard travel documents such as passports and airline tickets.
  
• Avoid confrontations with locals.
  
• Avoid demonstrations and protests, especially if they appear political in nature.
  
• Don't permit people you don't know to enter your accommodations. Keep your door locked. Don't leave valuables in your room unless they can be locked in a safe.
  
• Avoid illegal drugs, and don't drink alcohol if its use is prohibited. Even if drinking is legal, don't overindulge.
  
• Be cautious of unsolicited offers of assistance from strangers.

In recent years, political terrorism has become a global phenomenon - an attack could occur with little warning anywhere in the world, even in destinations long regarded as safe. Travelers should keep themselves informed of developments that could affect their safety, no matter what their destination.

Personal Safety

Fuel shortages may affect both transportation and heating in remote regions, especially during the winter. As in any large city, travelers should be on their guard against crimes of opportunity, particularly petty theft on public transportation and scams involving wallets or plastic bags found with large amounts of cash. A number of racially motivated assaults have also occurred. Travelers should exercise special caution in major cities, particularly at night. Ukrainian police occasionally stop travelers, especially those who appear to be from an ethnic minority. Always carry your passport, or a good copy of it, with you at all times to avoid hassles. For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Health

Generally speaking, medical care is adequate but limited. Most larger cities have hospitals, and Kiev also has a branch of the international American Medical Centers, a well-equipped clinic staffed by AMA-certified doctors that can deal with outpatient care and emergencies. In smaller cities, however, many basic supplies and medications are scarce. Visitors who need specific prescription medicines and/or disposable syringes should take their own supply. Travelers needing medical care should ask hotel personnel or their tour guide to direct them to the proper facilities. Those in poor health are advised not to visit the country. The smog in some cities may be a hazard for some visitors.

There have been a few cases of typhoid in rural parts of the country and tuberculosis in some parts of the east. HIV infection rates in Ukraine, transmitted through intravenous drug use and unprotected sex, are among the highest in Europe. Anyone engaging in high-risk behaviors should use all necessary precautions. Boosters for hepatitis and diphtheria are also recommended. Consult your physician for precautionary measures. Do not drink the tap water: Stick with boiled or prepackaged drinks. For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Dos & Don'ts

Don't use the old way of referring to the country as "the Ukraine." The definite article implies that it is still a province of Russia, and the name alone means it's independent.

Do learn a few words of Ukrainian and Russian. (You'll find the phrases "Hello" and "To your health" are indispensable in both languages.).

Do learn the Cyrillic alphabet—it's not as hard as it looks, and it's well worth the effort: You'll be able to read signs phonetically (e.g., METPO is pronounced metro and means subway; PECTPAH is pronounced restoran and means restaurant).

Do be prepared to remove your shoes if you're invited to someone's home (you will usually be furnished with slippers).

Do take toilet paper and a universal bathtub stopper (the round, flat type) if you're traveling in rural areas.

Do see a traditional dance concert. The energetic style is bound to give you a lift. In larger cities, impromptu dance and music celebrations by senior citizens are worth checking out.

General

Business travelers to Ukraine will find that, despite 70 years of communist rule, the country still remains a European nation. And with every passing year, it moves closer to the West. Business practices tend to be more formal than those in the U.S. but are on par with those in the rest of western Europe. The businessperson should be conscious of a more European attitude in western Ukraine and in the capital city of Kiev. However, eastern Ukraine does retain a veneer of the old system, and unfortunately, bribes or special treatment may be expected as part of doing business. While Ukrainian is the official language, Russian is understood by almost everyone older than 30. English is not widely spoken, except by young recent university graduates. Overall, Ukrainians are friendly and welcoming and are happy to deal with foreigners on both a personal and business level.

Personal Introductions

A handshake upon introduction is an appropriate greeting for both men and women.

Ukrainians respect age, and younger people usually initiate an introduction with an older person first.

In western Ukraine, it is not unusual for an older gentlemen to kiss a woman's hand when introduced, regardless of her status.

Foreigners should not offer an alternative form of greeting to a Ukrainian. Kissing on the cheeks is reserved for relatives and close friends.

When visitors enter the room, they are introduced, and people usually rise to acknowledge them.

Men stand the first time a woman enters the room, especially in formal or business settings.

Business cards are widely used and are frequently exchanged in Ukraine. Most Ukrainians will have bilingual business cards, with the understanding that most foreigners do not know Ukrainian and use English for business. It is considered polite to read a person's card in their presence. Business cards are often referred to as "coordinates.” When someone asks you for your "coordinates," they are asking for your business card.

Visitors should use Ukrainian titles in all conversation until instructed otherwise—Pan (pronounced pahn) for a man and Pani (pronounced pahnee) for a woman. There is no special title for "Miss" or "Ms." Pan and Pani should be used with the person’s last name, as in Pan Shevchenko. Those with professional titles are referred to as Pan Doctor, Pan Advocate (lawyer), Pan Engineer, etc.

The use of surnames can be complex. The father's first name, or the patronymic, is used in formal situations and addresses. For example, a professor named Ivan whose father's name is Stepan is introduced as Pan Professor Ivan Stepanovich (ovich is the ending placed on the father's first name for a male). For women, the patronymic ending is ivna (pronounced eevna). A female doctor named Marta would be introduced as Pani Doctor Marta Stepanivna. If you have any breath left, you can then add the "real" last name.

Visitors should continue to use titles and surnames until instructed otherwise. Sometimes, after you get to know someone, you might perform a ritual of crossing your arms and drinking a brudershaft (especially in western Ukraine). First names may then be used.

The use of Ukrainian and English is appropriate anywhere in the country. Sometimes, in eastern and central Ukraine, English and Russian will be used. Be advised that the use of Russian in western Ukraine may be considered an insult.

Ukrainians prefer to become acquainted with an individual on a personal level before initiating serious business discussions. This may require several long dinners with drinking, toasts and off-color jokes.

Married visitors, especially women, are taken more seriously than unmarried ones. Single men will be taken more seriously than will single women. Attractive single women should be aware that their male hosts and business contacts are likely to flirt with them, regardless of their position or status. Flirting is considered to be a compliment to a female, not an insult.

Body Language & Gestures

Ukrainians are comfortable with very little personal space.

There can be friendly touching, especially of arms and hands, during a conversation, and this should not be misconstrued as sexual or offensive. Never speak to someone with your hands in your pockets, as this is considered rude.

Except in very formal situations, it is normal to expect such friendly gestures as a pat on the back or even a bear hug.

Beckoning with an upraised index finger is only used with small children and dogs and should be avoided. A fist with the thumb in between the index and middle fingers is the equivalent of the raised middle digit and should never be used. Tapping your temple with an index finger, which implies craziness, is an invitation to a fight. Flatulence and belching are never joked about, even among friends and family.

Ukrainians find putting your feet on a coffee table or other furniture to be extremely rude.

Wearing a hat inside the house, restaurant, church or office is considered the height of rudeness.

Conversation

Visitors should not expect their business hosts to speak any English other than basic phrases, unless they are young recent university graduates. English is not yet widely spoken in Ukraine, but this is slowly changing.

It is advisable to hire an interpreter.

Useful Ukrainian phrases:

Vybachte, ya ne govoyu po Ukrainski (pronounced VY-bach-te, ya ne ho-VO-ryu po u-kra-YIN-ski) “I'm sorry. I don't speak Ukrainian.”

Vy govorite po Angliski? (pronounced vy ho-VO-rhite po an-HLEE-ski) “Do you speak English?"

Dobry den! (pronounced DO-bry den) “Good day!”

Do pobachennya (pronounced do po-BA-chen-ya) “Goodbye.”

Do zustrichi (pronounced do ZU-stri-chi) “Until our next meeting.”

Vybachte! (pronounced VY-bach-te) “Excuse me,” or “I’m sorry.”

Dyakuyu (pronounced DYA-ku-yu) “Thank you.”

Proshu (pronounced PRO-shu) “Please.”

Ya (ne) rozumiyu (pronounced ya (ne) ro-zu-MI-yu) “I (do not) understand.”

Volume of speech tends to be on the quiet side, especially in public places such as restaurants.

Slang should be avoided so that there are no misunderstandings.

Profanity should always be avoided.

Ukrainians love to smile and laugh, and they have a great sense of humor.

Business Appointments

It is essential for a visitor to have a local contact to help schedule meetings, interpret, find directions, etc. However, a local sponsor is not required by the government.

There are business-service contacts that can be researched on the Internet via Ukrainian Web sites. There are chambers of commerce in the major cities, and your local embassy in Kiev will probably have an active interest in business development and can provide helpful lists to business travelers.

Business appointments should be made as far in advance as possible. Ukrainians dislike last-minute meetings and do not take them as seriously.

Punctuality is expected of businesspeople, both visitors and hosts. However, in personal relations, time is more flexible.

Business Negotiating

Business negotiations occur most frequently over meals, especially during long dinners (including home visits). Less frequently, businesspeople meet for lunch. Meetings never take place over breakfast. Final negotiations and formal meetings are usually held in the office.

During business meetings, there are always refreshments available. These will include bottled water and sometimes fruit juices, soft drinks and canapes. Coffee and tea will be served during breaks. If it is a late afternoon or evening meeting, do not be surprised to see wine, beer and hard liquor offered. There are no special rituals or practices that take place during the meeting itself.

Negotiations in Ukraine always begin with small talk, never business first.

Small talk typically includes questions about the visitor’s impressions of the country and complimentary comments about architecture, culture or scenery are welcome. Discussions dealing with cars, computers, travel and sports, especially soccer, will endear you to your hosts. Ukrainians do not consider golf a sport, and therefore, it is not worth talking about.

Avoid political discussions if at all possible, unless you are extremely well versed in local matters. If you want to make some comments about your country, Ukrainians will listen politely.

Visitors should expect a fairly hard sell in Ukraine. It may be a good idea to spend some time at your local embassy to talk to their economic and business attaches ahead of time. Also speak with the chamber of commerce.

Meals & Entertainment

Business lunches in Ukraine take place in the early afternoon, starting somewhere between 1pm and 3 pm. A business dinner may begin as early as 6 pm or as late as 10 pm and may continue for several hours. There are no business breakfasts in Ukraine. Dinner is the preferred meal for business gatherings. Late and lengthy lunches are also popular for doing business.

Business-related meals occur both at homes and at nicer restaurants. If invited to a meal at a host's home, you must never come empty-handed. Appropriate items to present to the host and hostess include a nice bottle of wine or champagne, an elegant box of chocolates, or a bouquet of flowers (always an odd number of flowers).

Visitors should expect a lunch to last two to three hours and a dinner to last at least three hours. Rushing a Ukrainian meal is not an option.

All meals occur around a table, with diners seated on chairs. The host chooses a seat for himself and the most-honored guest. After this, seating is open unless otherwise indicated by the host. Men and women dine together.

Meals are typically served in courses, usually an extensive selection of appetizers with alcohol and toasts first, followed by the main course, which will always have some type of meat. Salads are not very common, but soup is. At the end of the meal, there will always be dessert, as well as coffee and tea. Ukrainian women pride themselves on their cooking, especially their cakes (called tortes).

Overall, expect massive quantities of food to be served, all homemade, and dishes to take up every inch of the dining table.

Meals are almost never served buffet style except at receptions or art gallery openings.

When serving dishes are passed around the table, if there is a female sitting next to you, you hold the dish for her to serve herself.

You are expected to take a small portion of every dish that is offered, no matter how mysterious it may look to you. Food is very important to Ukrainians, and the host and hostess will have gone to great lengths to present home-cooked dishes representative of the country.

If you eat everything on your plate, you will be hounded to eat more. If you have finished your meal, make sure to leave something (but not too much) on your plate. Too much left on your plate signifies waste, which is considered rude.

If you don't like something on your plate, pretend to eat a little bit of it and leave the rest. Do not express your dislike of the item to the host.

You may be frank with your hosts if you must decline something based on religious or medical reasons. They will not hold this against you, and it is not necessary to tell them in advance. There will always be plenty of other dishes to choose from.

As a visitor, you can eat as you would at home without fear of repercussions.

The European style of eating with the fork in the left hand and the knife in the right hand is the accepted standard. Between bites, the fork and knife are placed upside down on the sides of the plate. After finishing a meal, you should leave your fork and knife crossed in the middle of the plate.
Fruit is the only food that should be eaten with the hands. Cutlery is used for just about everything else, including pizza and fried chicken.

Napkins are provided—both paper and cloth are used. There are no special rules concerning the use of napkins, except that you should never tie it around your neck in a bib style.

When someone asks you to pass the salt, you must never hand it to him. Instead, place it in front of the person.

If you must use a toothpick, turn sideways and cover the act with your other hand. It is best is to wait and do this in private.

Visitors may stand and say "excuse me" if they need to leave the table. Before leaving the table for the evening, and also during the meal, a visitor should compliment the hostess on the food. Invariably she will have spent many hours preparing the dishes with tender, loving care. Your comments will be appreciated.

Alcohol plays a central role in Ukrainian entertaining and meals. It is wise to advise the host beforehand if you do not drink for whatever reason. A visitor is expected to drink and toast along with the group. Be advised that Ukrainian vodka (called horilka), served in small shot glasses, is meant to be downed in one gulp. Sipping is considered an insult, so practice before you arrive. Also, you must eat a lot of food before and during these toasts in order to stay sober. Forget about counting calories. One of the reasons for the heavy foods is to absorb the alcohol, so try that delicious black bread with Ukrainian sausage and salo (raw bacon), a local delicacy.

The Ukrainian meal is punctuated with frequent toasts. Everyone at the table will be expected to propose at least one toast during the meal. The host always will make the first toast, usually to everyone's health (bud-mo!). The second toast is usually to welcome the guest or guests of honor, at which point, the third toast is given by the guest. Appropriate toasts include: za vas! (here's to you) and za-ho-spo-da-riv! (here's to our hosts).

It is considered polite for a visitor to offer to pay a restaurant tab. Chances are your host will take care of the tab before the check is presented at the table. If, in a rare instance, you decide to split the bill, split it in half regardless of who ate what. It is considered poor manners to analyze the bill.

Tipping is a relatively new concept in Ukraine, but it is catching on quickly, especially in finer restaurants frequented by foreigners. As wages are very low, a 10%-15% tip, depending upon the level of service, is greatly appreciated.

Dress

In business situations, a suit is the requisite attire for men. Women can either wear a suit, a dress and jacket ensemble, or a dressy pantsuit.

It is better to be overdressed than underdressed.

An all-black ensemble (black shirt, tie, pants) for men may be misconstrued as "mafia." A white shirt is most welcome.

If visitors are expected to dress casually, they will be informed of this by their hosts. If nothing is mentioned, expect to dress nicely.

Men and most women in Ukraine will never be seen wearing a pair of shorts, except in the outdoors for activities such as camping or hiking. Never attempt to enter a Ukrainian church, a nice restaurant, theater, or concert hall in shorts and a T-shirt.

Sneakers are worn for sports, and that's about it. They are not used as casual footwear outside of the house. The same is true for T-shirts or any collarless shirt.

Gift Giving

It is a common practice and good etiquette to present your business host with a gift.

Gifts that are always considered appropriate and appreciated include a nice coffee-table book about your country, a nicely wrapped box of chocolates or a bottle of brandy (something that is not locally available). Gifts should always be wrapped.

Tickets to a concert performance or an opera are highly prized and are usually difficult for locals to obtain. Even if they cannot attend, they will give the tickets to relatives or friends.

Inappropriate gifts would be those that are obviously prepared at the last moment: a six-pack of beer, a cheap, locally available box of chocolates or a cheap bottle of liquor.

If you know your host and have met the lady of the house previously, a nice silk scarf presented to her when you visit their home is a classy gift. If you know your hosts well and if you know that they have children, you should bring something age-appropriate for the children also.

The cost of the gift is not the issue. Quality and thoughtfulness count for more.

When giving flowers, always present an odd number to the hostess. Avoid yellow flowers. Never give white Easter lilies—they are for funerals only.

Visitors are expected to send thank-you notes, preferably handwritten. Always recognize the hostess' efforts if there was a reception at home.

Gender Issues

Unfortunately, women in Ukraine are still "unofficially" second-class citizens, but the situation is changing quickly.

Many women currently work, and have traditionally worked, outside of the home. However, Ukraine is still largely a male-dominated society, with men holding most of the high-ranking jobs. Women, although highly educated, are underrepresented in the business sector and hold most of the service-oriented jobs.

Foreign women will be treated differently and will not be taken as seriously as their male counterparts. As Ukraine is absorbed into the rest of Europe, this is changing, especially among those in the younger generation.

Women in Ukraine can visit any place freely. The only exception to this is when visiting some religious places, such as an Orthodox Church, where women are forbidden to go behind the altar.

Men and women are treated equally on public transportation. Age is the deciding factor, and it is considered good manners to give up your seat for anyone older whether male or female.

There are no special requirements for women in terms of attire, other than good taste. In a few Orthodox churches, women may be required to wear a skirt to enter, although this is rare.

Married women are taken more seriously and treated with more respect than are single women. This is applicable in both business and social settings. It is interesting, however, that this also applies to men.

A young attractive female may experience some attention when unaccompanied in public. It is best to avoid places frequented by inebriated men. It is also best to ignore any comments, rather than to respond angrily.

Taboo & Other Issues

Never keep your hands in your pockets while speaking with someone or while making a presentation. Ukrainians will consider it rude and disrespectful.

Hats and gloves should be kept off of tables.

Do not shake hands or conduct a discussion in a doorway or over a threshold. This is considered bad luck.

Do not shake hands with gloves on. This is considered rude.

Do not wear a hat inside a home, restaurant, museum or church.

There are no religious taboos.

It is considered good manners to inquire about your host’s family. Ukrainians enjoy your interest, especially in the success or accomplishments of their children.

When entering a Ukrainian home, you are likely to see a pile of shoes in the foyer. This is your cue to follow suit, even if your hosts protest that you don't need to do so. Chances are they will offer you a pair of slippers for your visit. So, don't wear socks with holes in them!

Ukrainians are very knowledgeable about other countries and may surprise you with their knowledge of your country and culture.

Ukrainians especially appreciate comments about their art and book collections. Feel free to wander about the house admiring things. If you over-focus your attention on some inexpensive item, they may feel the need to present it to you as a gift when you leave.

Ukrainian businesspeople are status-conscious and will make a value judgment based upon your choice of hotel.

Ukrainians tend to be somewhat laid back, until they get behind the wheel of a car. Rules are frequently broken, and they like to drive fast. Avoid driving between cities at night, as lighting is sporadic and road conditions vary.

If at all possible, it is better for a visitor to hire a car and driver.

It is common courtesy to ask before taking anyone's photo. Chances are that they'll be flattered, but if they decline, accept this graciously. Some ethnic groups, such as the Muslim Tatars in Crimea, will decline for religious reasons. The Gypsies may ask for a small tip.

Hotel Overview

Accommodations range from luxurious to basic, depending on the region of the country. Five-star hotels exist in Kiev and Donetsk, and four-star hotels can be found in Lviv, Odessa, Dnipropetrovsk, Kharkiv and Yalta. They are clean, comfortable and adequate, though expensive. Homestays offer more independence and freedom, and apartment rentals, especially in Kiev, Odessa and Yalta, are preferred by many foreign visitors. The apartments typically meet high standards and come fully equipped with everything from modern furnishings, air-conditioning and satellite TV to housekeeping.

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Australia, Canada, the U.K. and the U.S. must have a passport and a visa, though this is quickly changing. As of September 2005, citizens of Canada and the U.K. will no longer need a visa to enter Ukraine for periods of 90 days or less. Citizens of the U.S. who have entered Ukraine on a work visa within the last six months will be eligible to extend their visas without having to reapply. Visas are still required for citizens of Australia. To get a visa, which must be obtained in advance if there is a Ukrainian embassy or consulate in the traveler's home country, the traveler must have a letter of invitation from a Ukrainian individual or business or a tour voucher. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.

Population: 47,732,079.

Languages: Ukrainian, Russian..

Predominant Religions: Christian (Ukrainian Orthodox, Roman Catholic)..

Time Zone: 2 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+2 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 380, country code; 44,city code for Kiev; 48,city code for Odessa;

Currency Exchange

Paying for your purchases in Ukraine can get complicated. These days, it's a cash-and-carry economy, and your traveler's checks and credit cards, especially American Express and Diner's Club, may not be accepted everywhere. There are many banks in larger cities that can cash traveler's checks (you must show your passport to do so), and ATMs can be found in all major cities and in most smaller ones with populations of 200,000 or more. (Only use ATMs that are in well-lit areas and display a wide range of international banking symbols on the front. If your card is not returned, contact the bank whose machine you've used immediately).

For a good exchange rate, compare rates at the exchange kiosks on the street.

The Ukrainian hryvnia is the sole legal currency in Ukraine. At major restaurants in larger cities you may ask the staff to change your foreign currency for you before paying for your meal in hryvnias. Dollars or euros are only acceptable as payment for large-ticket items such as airline tickets and luxury items, including automobiles and jewelry.

Do be aware that if you choose to change money with or buy from black marketeers you're engaging in an illegal activity. You also run a significant risk of being cheated or robbed.

Banking Hours

Monday-Friday 9 am-4 pm. Some banks close for lunch from 1-2 pm.

Tipping

Tipping is still largely a North American habit. Some service staff expect a tip from travelers; 10% should suffice for most restaurants, hotels and taxis.

Weather

In general, the best time to visit is May-September, when the days temperatures are 50s-70s F/11-25 C. Spring and early fall, however, are unpredictable; snow flurries and low temperatures in the 30s F/0-10 C are possible as late as May and as early as September.

What to Wear

Travelers visiting Ukraine in summer should pack a mix of light cotton tops and pants or skirts as well as comfortable walking/hiking shoes or sandals. Take a good hat to keep the sun off and an umbrella for when it rains. In rural areas, travelers should think ahead and take long-sleeved shirts and full-length pants in order to protect themselves from mosquitoes and poison ivy, which is common in many wooded areas. Good hiking boots or shoes are recommended for trips into the Carpathian Mountains or hilly areas in Crimea. In winter, wear a heavy coat, warm hat, and warm, waterproof boots with good traction.

Transportation

Borispol (KBP), Kiev's airport for international arrivals, is 24 mi/38 km southeast of town. Taxis will accept either hryvnias (typically 70-80 hryvnias) or hard currency (US$15-$20) for the ride into town—be sure to haggle over the price. Snilow Airport (LWO), is 4 mi/6 km away from Lviv. Central Airport (ODS) is 8 mi/13 km from the city center of Odessa.

Decent train service is available internally and enters Ukraine from throughout Europe. Book first-class seats—you'll still meet Ukrainians and you'll have a modicum of comfort. If you're willing to put up with a bit more crowding and less privacy, book second class. Reserving seats involves a considerable amount of bureaucracy and fighting crowds, but it's worth the effort.

Various cruises and ferry services are available at Black Sea ports and along several of Ukraine's rivers—the Dnieper River cruises are especially picturesque. The ferry service from Odessa to Istanbul is particularly memorable. There is also limited ferry service between Yalta and Istanbul.

You can drive some rental cars from Europe into Ukraine, but check with the rental company first. Rental cars can be hired in Ukraine, but prices are much higher than in the west, often four or five times as much. Gas and repair services are not always readily available off the main roads. A good rule of thumb is to top off your tank whenever you see gas (benzin) available.

Subways and buses are available in Kiev and Kharkiv. Taxis are readily available in large cities and often easy to find in smaller ones, as well. Most do not have meters—settle on a price before you get in the cab. In some cities, you can call for a metered taxi, though the fare will be slightly higher. To complicate matters, drivers generally do not understand any language other than Ukrainian or Russian. Keep a pad and pen handy for when you're trying to haggle over a price when language is a barrier.

For More Information

Tourist Offices

Ukraine: Ukrainian Travel Information System, 29-A Elektrikiv, 04176 Kiev. Phone 537-2727. http://www.utis.com.ua.

Ukraine does not have tourist offices in Australia, Canada, the U.K. or the U.S.

Ukrainian Embassies

Australia: Embassy of Ukraine, George Center, Level 2, 60 Marcus Clarke St. Canberra, ACT 2601. Phone 612-6230-5789. Fax 612-6230-7298. http://www.ukremb.info.

Canada: Embassy of Ukraine, 310 Somerset St. W., Ottawa, ON K2P 0J9. Phone 613-230-2961. Fax 613-230-2400. http://www.infoukes.com/ukremb.

U.K.: Embassy of Ukraine, 60 Holland Park, London W11 3SJ, England. Phone 20-7727-6312. Fax 20-7792-1708. http://www.ukremb.org.uk.

U.S.: Embassy of Ukraine, 3350 M St. N.W., Washington, DC 20007. Phone 202-333-0606. Fax 202-333-0817. http://www.ukraineinfo.us. There are also consulates in Chicago and New York.

Embassies in Ukraine

Australian Consulate, 18 Komniterna, Apt. 11, 01032 Kiev. Phone 235-7586. Fax 235-4481.

Canadian Embassy, 31 Yaroslaviv Val, 01901 Kiev. Phone 270-7144. Fax 270-7130.

British Embassy, 9 Desyatinna, 01025 Kiev. Phone 490-3660. Fax 490-3662.

U.S. Embassy, 10 Yuria Kotsubinskoho, 01901 Kiev. Phone 490-4000. Fax 244-7350.

Additional Reading

The Icon and the Axe by James H. Billington (Random House). A survey of Russian culture, which has its foundations in Kiev.

Borderland: A Journey Through the History of Ukraine by Anna Reid (Westview Press). A look back at the history of Ukraine and how it has contributed to the rise of the Ukrainian nation.