Laos' capital is one of the most low-key, friendly capital cities in the world. With its tree-lined avenues and manageable traffic, Vientiane still retains an old-fashioned charm, despite its haphazard attempts at economic development. Though urbanization is slowly transforming it, the city's character is preserved in the many small neighborhoods (really former villages known as
bans), each with its tree-cloistered
wat and paddy fields.
Sightseeing
In Vientiane, signs of the country's turbulent history abound; the colonial legacy of the French reduced to crumbling architectural gems, tree-lined avenues and crusty baguettes sold in the morning market. Russia, too, left its mark with austere buildings, khaki uniforms, golden epaulets, reams of red tape and an economy in tatters.
A visit to the Lao National History Museum on Samsenthai Road, formerly known as the Lao Revolutionary Museum, is a fascinating place to get a perspective on the country's history. The building contains a display of artifacts and pictures charting the rise of the Pathet Lao, while other rooms are dedicated to the French colonial period, the struggle for independence and the resistance against the U.S. More quirky is Patuxai, Laos' concrete-and-rebar answer to its former colonizer's Arc de Triomphe.
Major points of interest include Pha That Luang (the national symbol of Laos, built in 1566) and the wats Sisaket and Haw Pra Keo (graceful old temples with historic Buddha images).
Vientiane has more than its fair share of stunning temples and monuments. The most significant is Pha That Luang, one of Laos' most important cultural sites. Despite having had communism thrust upon them, the people have remained deeply religious. Buddhist ritual and observance remain part of everyday life. Pha That Luang is a glorious golden monument.
Recreation
Although Vientiane has enough to keep its grip on visitors for many days, a trip out to the Xiengkuane Buddha Park, a spectacular site created by one of Laos' great eccentrics, is essential. Located next to the Mekong River, 15 mi/25 km south of the city and just 2 mi/3 km from Friendship Bridge, the park was established in 1958 by Bounlua Sulilat. The shaman priest recruited local people to help realize his religious vision, one that combined elements of Buddhism with Hindu mythology. The park features a 150-ft/50-m reclining Buddha and a host of other surreal large-scale sculptures. Bounlua developed a large following in Laos and Thailand, and in later years, established another even more spectacular park in Nong Khai, just across the border in Thailand. You can also ride around the Vientiane Plain and visit the 11th-century Khmer Buddha images at Vang Sang.
Nightlife
With its authoritarian government and religious observances, Vientiane is a conservative town. Nightlife is severely limited compared to other Asian cities, but things are changing—fast. Not so many years ago, little happened after 9 pm and curfews were often imposed. Today, the young of Vientiane, clearly influenced by Thai TV beamed into their homes, are keen to catch up with their neighbors. Nightclubs have flourished in the city, and although most close down by midnight, they pull in crowds of teenagers.
Live bands are still a major feature at clubs, many playing Western songs. However, traditional Lao music is still incredibly popular, and clubs in hotels usually play Laotian music all evening. With ladies dressed in the local sarong or pa sin, the dance there is all considered steps, graceful hand gestures and flirtatious eyes. Vientiane certainly dances to a different beat, and it's worth tuning into.
Shopping
Rural people go in to shop at the ubiquitous street stalls and Talat Sao, the morning market. Its name is somewhat of a misnomer these days, as the market is open all day. At the market, bundles of
kip are exchanged for bolts of fabulous silk, Laos silver and gold. Just across from the Talat Sao, tucked behind the bus station, is Khua Din, a fresh market piled high with local produce and intriguingly unfamiliar ingredients—an excellent place to get a taste of local life, especially early in the morning.
Dining Overview
The culinary landscape of Vientiane is no less effected by its past than its architecture or politics. In the late 1960s and 70s, when Vietnam was at war with the U.S., many Vietnamese sought refuge in Laos. Today, the rich culinary tradition that they brought with them is extremely popular in the city. It doesn't come much better than what is served at Nam Naung Viengsavanh on Heng Boon Road. This superb little restaurant is packed to the rafters with locals every lunchtime, all eager for tasty
naem neaung,
bee bun noodles and
yor kao, fresh spring rolls.
An early-evening walk along Fa Ngam Road reveals one of the favorite dining spots for Laotians and tourists alike. Every evening, food vendors gather to cook up local delicacies for diners as they down a bottle of Beer Laos and watch the sun add a welcome orange glow to the murky waters of the Mekong. The riverfront is also a good place to sample jim jum, a local dish of meat and vegetables cooked at your table in an earthenware pot set on a charcoal brazier. Food is available along the banks of the Mekong from around 5 pm until late.
Transportation
Traffic remains relatively light in Vientiane but is increasing every year. Even so, rush hour in the city causes no real delay, and the city is free of any noticeable air pollution from cars.
Tuk-tuks are excellent for getting around the city, but agree on a price before you begin your journey. Scooters can be hired in Vientiane for US$6 a day, and bicycle rental is also available.
Calendar
Pha That Luang is the location of an annual festival held in November. The spectacular temple fair features religious ceremonies, carnival games and stalls selling local crafts and food. The atmosphere is one of celebration, and thousands of monks from all over Laos gather to receive alms at the site.
Around late October or early November are the Awk Phansaa festival boat races, in which teams paddle traditional dragon-prow longboats on the Mekong, much to the merriment of the spectators who line the banks.
