Vietnam Travel Guide

Once synonymous with tragedy and conflict, Vietnam is experiencing a rebirth. Now decades after the U.S. pullout from South Vietnam, the country shows few remaining scars from that conflict or the protracted War of Independence from France that preceded it. Many historical sites have been fully restored, the country's economy is booming and the infrastructure for tourism is developing rapidly. Visitors no longer worry about staying in contact with home—Internet cafes are everywhere. The ancient and modern coexist: Cell phones and gleaming motorbikes are ubiquitous in the towns and villages, but people still till the rice fields with the help of bullock plows.

The country's history of conflict—both internal and with others—could lead you to conclude that the Vietnamese thrive on a certain degree of contentiousness. That's just not the case. Although the older Vietnamese may find the pace of change somewhat dizzying, there is overwhelming support for the advances the country is making. Tourism is helping Vietnam ride the crest of that wave, and the country has become one of the best travel bargains in Asia.

History

Vietnam's recorded history begins in 111 BC, when the Chinese conquered the northern part of the region and ruled for more than 1,000 years. For the next 700 years, Vietnam was a collection of small, competing kingdoms (the northern and southern portions of the country vied for control even then). The Nguyen Dynasty took power in 1802 and ostensibly ruled most of Vietnam until 1954, but the Nguyen emperors were largely controlled by the French after 1887. During World War II, the Japanese invaded. After the war, the French attempted to retain Vietnam as a colony.

The Viet Minh, a coalition of communist and nationalist groups, forced the French out in 1954 (you can still see reminders from the famous Battle of Dien Bien Phu), and the country was temporarily divided along the 17th parallel. The North consolidated under communist leadership, and the South went to the nationalists. An election was supposed to have been held, but the South, suspecting that the North would win, refused to participate. A few months later, the South declared independence.

The two sides sought to undermine each other's governments from the start. The North consolidated power under popular leader Ho Chi Minh. In 1963, North Vietnamese troops openly crossed the border and the Vietnam War began in earnest. Despite support from the U.S. and a handful of other countries, the South was unable to defend itself. North Vietnamese troops captured Saigon in 1975 and ended the war.

Though it initially took a hard-line communist approach, Vietnam later began liberalizing certain segments of its economy and in 1983 announced an open-door trade policy with the rest of the world. The government maintained strict control over exchange rates, however, which helped it get through the Asian economic crisis of 1997. Today, Vietnam seems full of contradictions: It still subscribes to Marxist principles and is controlled by the party, but it is embracing capitalism and all its benefits. Although the country is gaining prosperity, it hasn't forgotten its past—the government has erected heroic war memorials and billboards extolling the virtues of the collective state.

Snapshot

Vietnam's main attractions are beautiful scenery, rich culture, beaches, delightful cuisine, courteous people, Vietnam War sites, hill-tribe cultures and ancient temples, courts and pagodas illustrating Vietnam's shifting dominant cultures throughout its 4,000-year history.

Vietnam will appeal to adventurous travelers who are interested in Southeast Asian culture and who can maintain a flexible attitude within Vietnam's still-emerging tourism industry. A handful of luxury resorts have been built around Vietnam's major tourist destinations, offering relaxation without worry to those who desire to be indulged and pampered on their holidays.

Potpourri

Dragon-skin fruit, which grows on a type of cactus plant, is found throughout Southeast Asia, but there is an abundance of it in Vietnam. The fruit has brilliant pink skin with overlapping scales tipped in lime green, and the melonlike white flesh is decorated with edible black seeds.

Most hotels and buses do not allow durian to be brought in or carried on board. It is a fruit infamous for its pungent smell.

What's the difference between a pagoda and a temple? Pagodas (chua) are dedicated to Buddha and, often, various Hindu gods and avatars. Temples (den) are built to memorialize historical figures, especially kings, emperors and victorious generals. They are frequently built next to or inside a pagoda. Prayers and incense are offered at pagodas, but not at temples.

You're more likely to see it on female hotel staffers than on the street, but many older Vietnamese women still wear the traditional ao dai to festive events. It consists of an ankle-length, embroidered silk robe slit up both sides and worn over loose pants. White wedding dresses and elaborate handmade evening dresses are more popular with younger women.

The Vietnamese refer to the Vietnam War as the American War.

Women have been a part of the warrior tradition in Vietnam since the Trung sisters led a rebellion against the Chinese in AD 40.

Try to see a water-puppet show during your visit to Hanoi. This art form is unique to Northern Vietnam and is not for children.

It is against the law to put your hands in your pockets when visiting Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum.
The name Ha Noi means "under the river." The city was built in AD 1010 and lies below the level of the Red River, protected by a series of dikes. In the rainy season, gates in the dikes are opened into neighboring provinces to keep Hanoi from flooding.

There is indeed a two-tiered price structure in Vietnam, with a tourist price and a lower Vietnamese price. You will be paying the tourist price. This is only fair, as the median wage in Vietnam is US$49 a month, while US$90 a month is considered positively middle-class.

Average amount of living space per person in Vietnam: 7.3 sq m/78 sq ft. The government's goal by 2010, when Vietnam will celebrate its fourth millenia: 9.5 sq m/102 sq ft.

There are an estimated 3 million motorbikes crowding the streets of Hanoi, small potatoes compared to Ho Chi Minh City's 5.5 million. The most frequently replaced part of a motorbike, in both cities, is the horn.

The Vietnamese practice secondary burial, in which the newly deceased body is buried in a simple wooden coffin and left to decompose for three years. During this time, a widow is expected to devote herself to prayers for her deceased husband's soul. At the end of three years, the now-clean bones are dug up and carefully gathered into an urn, which is then placed in the family's private ancestors' pagoda. These are always made of carved limestone, painted in pink, red, white or saffron, and are commonly seen at the edge of the rice fields all over Vietnam. The ritual for interring the bones is very elaborate and must be followed precisely, lest the ghost of the deceased linger to cause endless mischief for the family.

Nearly all Vietnamese practice ancestor worship, and most homes, businesses and restaurants will have a small altar at the front where incense, prayers and gifts are offered daily to keep the ancestors comfortable in the spectral world. The gifts are determined by the deceased's preferences while in the world of the living and may include glasses of whisky, cigarettes, candy, flowers and fruit.

Gay and lesbian travelers have no trouble in Vietnam, as the Vietnamese exercise a tolerance toward all genders, religions and sects.

Recreation

Vietnam's best-known beaches are white-sand Cua Dai Beach, which runs the 18 mi/30 km between Danang and Hoi An; Nha Trang Beach, 6 mi/8 km of coconut palms and powder sand edging the town of the same name; and the 7 mi/11 km of tropical perfection between Mui Ne and Phan Thiet in the south. Scuba diving and snorkeling are popular around the islands off Nha Trang, and several PADI- or SSI-certified dive shops there offer scuba instruction. Pleasure-boating and fishing are not popular, as most Vietnamese associate the sea with food and hard work, but kite-boarding and windsurfing equipment and instruction are available in Mui Ne.

Bicycling is easy along the flat, paved roads of Vietnam's coastal agricultural plain, though no tourist industry has developed around this pursuit. In the countryside, a bicycle is still the most common form of transportation, and adventurous bikers will find a warm welcome and expert bike repair all along the road. A few tour companies (Intrepid Travel is one of the oldest) organize guided bike tours of the rugged Central Highlands, with overnight stops at guesthouses or in homestays with ethnic minority villagers. These are designed for experienced bike-riders in excellent physical condition.

Spectacular birding can be had in Vietnam's national parks, especially at higher-altitude Cuc Phuong Park near Ninh Binh and Bach Na Park just south of Hue. In the hot, humid summer months, birds from the lowlands come to the mountains to enjoy the cool forests and cascading mountain streams. Bird-watching is best in July and August, but visitors should come prepared for hot weather, heavy rains and insect-rife jungle conditions. In May and June, masses of butterflies completely fill the air at Cuc Phuong National Park.

Hiking is most pleasant in the National Parks in the cooler, drier winter months of January-March. The Northern and Central Highlands are cold (sometimes below freezing), drizzly and foggy during those months, and trekking there is far more rewarding in late March, April and May. South of Nha Trang, the mountains become covered with scrub, more suitable for sheep ranches than agriculture, and offer little of interest to birders or hikers.

Shopping

From Sapa in the north to Can Tho in the south, shopping in Vietnam is an exhilarating experience. Prices for luxury goods such as silks are absurdly low, and the range of high-quality handmade goods is huge.

Bargaining is an essential skill for everything from heavy teak-wood furniture to a pack of gum. Usually, it a good-natured negotiation in which you will end up slightly higher than halfway between the original asking and your offered price: Keep that in mind when establishing your opening bid. Vietnamese shop-owners are far more skilled at the intricacies of bargaining than the average Western tourist. Avoid being persuaded to spend more by an argument that plays upon your sympathies. Don't be pushed into a pace that is faster than you can think. Remember that it's your money. Be willing to walk away. Carry a hand-held calculator for quick monetary conversions, and piece of paper or a notebook and pen, so you can do your negotiating in writing. It will slow the pace and ensure that you are both agreeing to the same number. At the end of a successful negotiation, the shopkeeper will generally display disappointment at the low price or congratulate you on driving a hard bargain: It's all part of the script. End the session with a smile and thank you, which will be returned.

Sapa is the place to shop for handwork made by ethnic minority craftspeople, who walk sometimes for hours to reach the daily market. Weaving, carving, basketry and clothing are all laid out for inspection. Many montagnards (hill people) don't speak English, so take your pen and paper for some low-key haggling. Sapa is such a popular tourist market, though, that the purchasing price is often very close to the original asking price.

Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City are unpleasant places to shop, and some of the best bargains are available in hotel gift boutiques, where quality can be examined at leisure. The Hanoi Gallery, in the Old Quarter of Hanoi, is actually more of a street stall. It sells original or reproduction propaganda posters from the 1960s and '70s during the American War, and posters from the 1980s, as the Communist government encouraged people to put the war behind them and work to rebuild Vietnam.

Halong Bay is famous for pearls from its managed oyster beds, and both Halong City and Cat Ba Island are rife with shops and vendors selling necklaces, bracelets and earrings made from the local product. The pearls are genuine, and the prices are incredibly low. Individual strings fetch the asking price, but successful negotiations can be made on larger purchases.

Near Ninh Binh, Tam Coc is the center of a small hand-embroidery industry where the work is generally of exceptional quality.

Hoi An is where the shopping is, with hundreds of stores selling silk and cotton clothing, woodcarvings, silk-covered bamboo and wood-framed lanterns in many colors and styles, and a dizzying variety of sophisticated shoes.

Every town has a market where local people go to purchase necessities from food to automobile parts at small stalls, usually arranged around a central area where prepared food is sold and consumed. Many of these markets have been running every day for more than 100 years. They are often crammed with people, and the maze of aisles and shops can be disorienting. The market is the place to buy T-shirts, smaller gifts and clothing. Sharpen up your elbows, take a deep breath and join the throng. Since the shopping-stall tenants have less overhead than store owners, bargaining in the markets can be very satisfying.

There are some talented contemporary artists at work in most towns, but especially around Hanoi, Hoi An, Nha Trang and Ho Chi Minh City. Look for their original work to be displayed in galleries or on the walls of sympathetic hotels and restaurants. There will often be a business card with their address and phone, or ask the staff how to contact them.

Shopping Hours: Generally, daily 8 am-8 pm.

Day By Day

The following is a minimum itinerary for first-time visitors:

Day 1—Arrive Hanoi.

Day 2—Hanoi and a trip to Ha Long Bay.

Day 3—Day trip by train to Sapa.

Day 4—Fly to Hue.

Day 5—Hue. Excursion to the emperors' tombs along the Perfume River.

Day 6—Travel to Hoi An, stopping in Danang along the way.

Day 7—Hoi An.

Day 8—Fly to Ho Chi Minh City.

Day 9—Ho Chi Minh City.

Day 10—Fly to Hanoi and depart Vietnam.

Dining Overview

Vietnamese cuisine is superb, as you would expect from a country that learned to combine the best of East and West. Eating out is very inexpensive, and there is an array of dishes to choose from. The national dish is pho, a spicy noodle soup served with chicken or beef. Its less-spicy cousin is listed on menus as bun. Nearly every city has its own specialty, such as cao lau (thick noodles in gravy, garnished with pork cracklings) and delectable White Rose dumplings filled with shrimp or pork in Hoi An, or ultra-fresh seafood in Nha Trang and Mui Ne. No trip to Hanoi would be complete without sampling cha ca, bite-sized pieces of fish grilled at your table and served with rice noodles and various spices. Lau is a tasty hotpot cooked at your table (every restaurant seems to have a different recipe for this dish). And all over the country, ice cream is a staple: You'll find it in interesting flavors, from coconut to lemongrass.

Crusty baguettes are available everywhere and are usually served with breakfast or any meal that doesn't involve rice. Street vendors sell sandwiches made with baguettes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and either meat or cheese: Available ingredients will be displayed on a shelf behind the food cart's glass front. Traditional Vietnamese street-front restaurants have pots of various stews and vegetables set out for inspection. The food is often quite tasty, and if it smells good it's probably safe to eat. One problem for Westerners, though, is that the plastic chairs and tables in those cafes are very short, similar to ones found in a primary school, so taller visitors will have to fold themselves up quite a bit.

Vietnam is also a coffee-lover's dream. It seems like every street cafe sells the thick coffee preferred by locals. The typical southern drink is cafe sua-da—sweetened condensed milk and strong coffee. Black coffee, whether hot or on ice, drips slowly from a special steel filter placed directly on the glass, and its slowness is a reminder to take life at a leisurely, contemplative pace.

Fresh fruit is available everywhere. Watermelons, oranges, pineapples and bananas are cheap and plentiful. Try some of the more unusual offerings such as lychees with their spiky red coats, jackfruit (also spiky, but larger and green), tamarind (long, lumpy brown pods) and dragon-skin fruit (lipstick-pink with lime-green trim). Most tourists avoid the dreaded durian, which to Westerners smells like a dead mouse in a sewer pipe, but it apparently tastes delicious if you're Vietnamese.

The Vietnamese version of French cuisine is exceptional. If at all possible, make reservations in Ho Chi Minh City for La Bibliotheque, in the home of a former legislator. Not only is the food delicious, but some nights the proprietor invites musician friends over for a jam session with Vietnamese acoustic instruments—it's extraordinary.

You will come across dog meat, or thit cho, in both restaurants and markets. The meat actually comes from dogs that are raised for that purpose. You shouldn't worry about being served dog meat without knowing it: It's a costly Vietnamese delicacy that no cook would waste.

Overview

Although Vietnam generally is considered safe for travelers, visitors should pay attention to their personal security. Petty crime and traffic accidents are the most pressing concerns, but visitors also should bear in mind the presence of land mines and unexploded ordnance. These are the reasons for the country's risk rating of 5.

Since new cases of avian influenza were reported in June 2007, the country began screening for fever visitors arriving from areas affected by bird flu. Anyone with a high fever who attempts to enter the country could be quarantined.

Overview

High-risk Areas
Areas close to the borders with China, Cambodia or Laos may be restricted, and they may not be marked. Some visitors have been detained after traveling without permission in areas close to borders. Banditry, as well as other lawlessness, has occurred in areas bordering Cambodia.

Political/social/economic conditions

Nguyen Minh Triet is the president of Vietnam, but the Communist Party of Vietnam still holds the real power in the country. Secretary-General Nong Duc Manh was reappointed party leader in April 2006. Manh, who is in his 60s, is the first secretary-general with no direct experience of the struggle for independence. He has focused on turning Vietnam into an industrialized country while fighting corruption and unnecessary bureaucracy.

There are no free elections in Vietnam. Candidates for election to the country's main legislative body, the 500-member National Assembly, must in practice be approved by the CPV. There is, however, an increasing minority of elected representatives who are not CPV members.

The assembly convenes twice each year. It has developed, in recent years, from little more than a rubber-stamp body to one increasingly able to scrutinize legislation and hold the government to account. It has, on paper at least, wide powers over the budget; its members, 25% of whom are full-time, are increasingly professional. Ultimately, however, the assembly remains firmly under the control of the CPV and is still far from being a democratic legislature. Elections to the assembly are held every five years; the latest were held in May 2007 but did not bring about any significant political changes.

Vietnam is a non-permanent member of the U.N. Security Council until the end of December 2009 and will assume the presidency of the council in October 2009.

In the past decade, Vietnam has recognized the increasing importance of growing global economic interdependence and has made concerted efforts to adjust to the evolving international economic and political situation in Southeast Asia. In January 2007, Vietnam became a member of the World Trade Organization. WTO membership will help the country maintain its high rate of growth by securing market access for the country's key exports, such as textiles, and establishing Vietnam as a destination for foreign direct investment worldwide.

Vietnam does not have the billion-plus populations of China and India. But with 85 million people, it is no minnow--it is a serious contender in the world economy. Vietnam has become the world's second-largest coffee exporter after Brazil, and the top producer of the Robusta coffee bean. It has become Thailand's main rival in rice exporting--the government recently limited exports of rice, but buoyed by a strong harvest, has announced a relaxation of the restrictions.

Vietnam is one of Asia's fastest-developing countries, with annual growth averaging 7.5% during the past decade--it also has one of Asia's most open economies. Two-way trade is around 160% of gross domestic product, more than twice the ratio for China and more than four times India's.

However, the government is set to face a number of challenging policy issues in 2009, most notably the need to control inflation and to reduce downward pressure on the currency. Consumer price inflation surged to 22.4% in 2008 but is expected to ease significantly in 2009. Economic growth is forecast to slow sharply from 6.1% in 2008 to about 3.2% in 2009 as the weakness of global trade hits Vietnamese exports hard.

The government has made this issue its number one priority and in June 2008 the State Bank of Vietnam (the central bank) raised the base interest rate to 14%from 12%. Consumer prices rose by 25.2% year-on-year in May 2008 and was the most immediate cause of the increase dramatic jump in the price of food and foodstuffs in the same period. The threat of even higher inflation was predicted in July 2008 when the government raised the price of gasoline by 31% and domestic fuel by as much as 36%. The rise put prices in Vietnam, which depends heavily on oil imports, more in line with the rest of Asia.

After 20 years of severed ties, the U.S. resumed diplomatic relations with Vietnam in 1995. The two countries since have broadened their political exchanges through annual talks on human rights and regional security. A cornerstone of the relationship remains cooperation regarding Americans still missing from the war in Vietnam.

In November 2006, U.S. President George W. Bush visited Vietnam, and in June 2007, President Triet made a state visit to the U.S. During the visit, the two leaders signed a Trade and Investment Framework Agreement and other important economic deals and contracts. President Bush also said the two men had a "frank and candid discussion" about democracy and human rights.

Political/social/economic conditions

Border and regional issues
Vietnam and China each assert claims to the Spratly Islands in the potentially oil-rich area of the South China Sea. Conflicting claims have occasionally produced small-scale, armed altercations in the area.

Political/social/economic conditions

Racial and ethnic tensions
The communist government of Vietnam recognizes only a handful of state-sponsored religions and has clashed several times with Buddhists (Buddhism is the principal religion in the country), Christians and the ethnic minorities collectively known as Montagnards.

In July 2008 security forces clashed in Vietnam's Central Highlands with ethnic minority Tay and Dao people from the north. The violence occurred when communist officials tried to reclaim forest land that the people had illegally occupied to grow coffee. Thousands of farmers from lowland rice-growing regions have flocked to the Central Highlands in recent years to grow coffee in the cool mountain climate.

According to the U.N. the population of the Central Highlands surged from 1.5 million in 1975 to 4.2 million by 2000, an influx that has brought development but also fueled land disputes. Thousands of Montagnards fled to Cambodia after security forces in 2001 and 2004 suppressed demonstrations in the Central Highlands to protest land confiscation and religious persecution of the ethnic minority.

Political/social/economic conditions

Institutional corruption
Government corruption is an ongoing problem that has been acknowledged at the highest levels. At the Communist Party's congress in April 2006, there was unprecedented frankness about corruption. A senior delegate said such frankness was becoming more common and more organized, and spreading across all areas of government.

The current leadership is focusing on tackling corruption in order to defend the party's reputation and legitimacy. The entrenched nature of corruption means that progress will be slow, but the recent graft conviction and imprisonment of a former deputy trade minister demonstrates that the government is taking the problem seriously. He was the latest among dozens of top officials given stiff penalties for dishonesty.

Political/social/economic conditions

Human-rights abuses
In its May 2008 report, Amnesty International said that human-rights violations against the Montagnards in the Central Highlands have continued. These included torture, restrictions on movement, forced denunciation of their religion, short-term detentions and ill-treatment. Several hundred Montagnards sought asylum in Cambodia in 2007-- a number of people from the Khmer Krom community also alleged persecution and fled the country.

In 2007, at least 83 people, including 14 women, were reportedly sentenced to death for drug trafficking offenses, some after unfair trials. The true number is believed to be much higher. They included one U.K. national of Vietnamese origin who was reported to be suffering from mental health problems. Several people convicted of economic crimes are believed to remain on death row.

Vietnam continues to deny access to independent human-rights monitors.

Freedom of expression remains severely limited. The Communist Party maintains tight control of the media and restricts the viewing of foreign TV stations by satellite. The authorities have intensified crackdowns on peaceful dissent and freedom of expression and association.

Several dozen people, among them lawyers, trade unionists, religious leaders and internet dissidents, were arrested between November 2006 and the end of 2007, an increased number over previous years. Most had connections to Bloc 8406, a movement calling for peaceful political change and respect for human rights. Nineteen among the 35 were known to have been tried and sentenced under vaguely worded and repressive national security legislation used to criminalize peaceful political dissent.

In May 2008 two journalists were arrested for reporting on corruption--according to Vietnam's criminal law, if found guilty, they face prison terms of one year as a minimum. Other journalists commented privately that the arrests had made people think that those who fought against corruption now faced repercussions themselves.

Trafficking in women and children for the purpose of prostitution within the country and abroad continues to be a serious problem.

Political/social/economic conditions

Land mines and unexploded ordnance
Vietnam has a serious legacy of unexploded ordnance and land mines, largely a result of war with the U.S. in the 1960s and '70s. Almost 2,000 civilian casualties a year are the result.

Political/social/economic conditions

Precautions against land mines/unexploded ordnance
In destinations with areas that have been contaminated with land mines or unexploded ordnance, never pick up any unidentified metal or plastic object. Report any finds to local authorities. Exercise caution around construction areas, as mines or ordnance could be uncovered during excavation. Travelers should be accompanied or briefed by guides familiar with mined areas. To the extent possible, remain on well-traveled roads, tracks and paths. Under no circumstances should you enter an area marked as mined.

Political/social/economic conditions

Additional information
Vietnamese security personnel sometimes place foreign visitors under surveillance. Hotel rooms, phone conversations, fax transmissions and e-mail messages may be monitored. Personal possessions in hotel rooms may be searched without the owner's knowledge or consent. Cyber-cafe patrons must enter their personal information to access the Internet, and their actions are closely monitored for dissident activity. Foreign visitors are required to present a passport or other identification at such establishments.

Large gatherings, such as those that form at the scene of traffic accidents, can become violent. Taking photographs of anything that could be perceived as being of military or security interest may result in problems with authorities. Be cautious when near military bases.

Some visitors to Vietnam have been arrested, detained and/or expelled for activities that would not be considered crimes in their home countries. Visitors deemed suspicious by Vietnamese security personnel may be detained, along with their Vietnamese contacts, relatives and friends. Local security officials have called in some U.S. nationals of Vietnamese origin for "discussions" not related to any suspected or alleged violation of law. These meetings normally do not result in any action against the traveler but are nonetheless intimidating.

Visitors are not permitted to invite Vietnamese nationals of the opposite sex to their hotel rooms, and police may raid hotels without notice. Involvement in politics, possession of political material, involvement in business activities that have not been licensed by appropriate authorities, and/or nonsanctioned religious activities (including proselytizing) can result in detention. Sponsors of small, informal religious gatherings, such as Bible-study groups in hotel rooms, as well as distributors of religious materials, have been detained, fined and expelled.

The presence of illegal explosives has been a problem, prompting the government to announce severe penalties imposed on people caught in possession of illicit explosive materials.

Crime

Violent crime is relatively rare, but petty street crime is a serious problem in Ho Chi Minh City and, to a lesser extent, throughout Vietnam. Generally, crime is limited to pickpocketing, snatch-and-grab incidents, and theft of unattended bags, briefcases and other personal items. Travelers are advised to not resist theft attempts and to report them to both police and their embassy.

Crime

Petty crime
Because travelers often are perceived to be affluent, petty criminals target them in areas where they're known to congregate, such as hotels frequented by tourists and businesspeople, tourist sites, restaurants and public parks.

While you're in your hotel, keep valuables in a safe, either in your room or at the front desk if no room safe is available. When you're out and about, don't carry anything you can't afford to lose. When on a guided tour, do not leave possessions unattended on a tour bus or boat. Keep passports and other valuables in hotel safes or other secure locations. Be aware of your surroundings and watch out for distractions, such as groups of children trying to sell something or women pretending to solicit sex who may actually be after a watch or other valuable item.

If you plan to hire a pedicab, choose one associated with a reputable hotel or restaurant. Note that there are risks associated with riding in pedicabs. Passengers ride in a reclining position that does not allow good visibility or movement and readily exposes their belongings, which makes them vulnerable to snatch-and-grab thieves. Motorcyclists, usually carrying passengers, frequently grab bags, cameras and other valuables from pedestrians, pedicab riders or people on the back of rented motorcycles. Victims may be knocked down or dragged until a bag's strap breaks. Such incidents reportedly increased during 2007.

A few instances of drink-drugging have been reported, so don't leave a drink unattended in a bar or accept a drink from a stranger.

Crime

Avoiding petty street crime
Hold bags and purses securely or carry them in an inside pocket, making sure the openings are fastened; keep the openings turned toward you and away from any passers-by. Don't carry a bag with a long strap, as such straps are easier for a thief to grab. Don't wear expensive watches or jewelry, and don't display large amounts of cash; take care with electronic equipment. If you're carrying a cell phone, take care to safeguard it, as mobile phones are highly coveted by thieves in many places. Keep car doors and windows closed and locked.

Crime

Violent crime
Several violent assaults against tourists have been reported on Cat Ba Island, close to Ha Long Bay.

Robberies that are the equivalent of motorcycle carjackings are prevalent. Groups of young men reportedly use their own bikes to stop individuals and then take victim's motorcycle.

Crime

Piracy
Take care when sailing in waters off Vietnam's southern coast. Attacks on boats in the area are not uncommon and can be deadly.

Crime

Police effectiveness
Police lack funding and training, and it's not unheard of for them to solicit bribes. Police dispatchers may speak only Vietnamese.

In the event of a business dispute, police may confiscate a visitor's passport and visa. Some individuals have been prohibited from leaving the country until after the dispute was resolved, even if the situation can't be settled for years.

Natural hazards

Vietnam is at high risk for seasonal flooding caused by tropical storms.

Natural hazards

Flooding
Northern Vietnam is most likely to experience flooding June-November, and central and southern areas are most likely to experience flooding August-November. Visitors to Vietnam should be aware of massive street flooding that commonly occurs in many of cities during these rainy seasons.

Many city streets are not equipped with the proper sewage infrastructure needed to drain the large amount of seasonal rain that falls in a very short time. This inordinate amount of rainfall often overwhelms the capacity of existing infrastructure. The resultant flooding makes navigating the streets nearly impossible.

The country was badly affected by severe flooding in 2008, particularly in rural areas--several hundred deaths and widespread damage to infrastructure was reported.

Travelers visiting flood-prone areas are urged to monitor weather conditions.

Natural hazards

Driving in flooded areas
Floods kill more people than any other weather phenomenon--and most flood deaths occur in vehicles. Do not drive in an area where flooding is expected unless your journey is absolutely necessary. Water on roadways can be deeper than it looks and could cause your vehicle to stall. Do not attempt to drive through water if you are unsure of its depth, especially if the water is flowing rapidly, such as at a flooded bridge approach--as little as 12 in/30 cm of running water can wash away most vehicles. When proceeding through water, drive slowly and steadily to avoid creating a bow wave, and allow oncoming traffic to pass first. Keep the engine revving to prevent water getting into the exhaust and stalling the engine. Note that the air intake on many modern cars is located low down at the front of the engine bay, and it only takes a small quantity of water sucked into the engine to cause serious damage. Any engine may be affected, but turbo-charged and diesel engines are most vulnerable. If your car stalls, immediately abandon it and climb to higher ground. As you move away, watch your footing. Just 6 in/15 cm of fast-moving floodwater can sweep a person off his or her feet. Test your brakes as soon as you can after driving through water.

Natural hazards

Hurricanes, cyclones and typhoons
Vietnam is at risk for typhoons. Monitor weather reports and media.

More than 200 people reportedly died in late 2007 as the country was hit by several typhoons and tropical storms.

Natural hazards

Tropical storm systems
Hurricanes, cyclones and typhoons may begin disrupting transportation, especially air travel, days in advance of landfall. Those planning travel to an area a tropical system is approaching should keep in close contact with their airline to monitor flight status. These storms can destroy everything in their path, and a single storm can kill scores of people. Take frequent note of storm advisories to monitor the approach of the storm so that you have plenty of time to evacuate--note that roads may be blocked by flooding, cutting off your escape, long before the storm itself arrives in your area. Contact local emergency services for the nearest evacuation center. Ensure your car is in good working condition and has a full tank of fuel. If you are evacuating, beware of flooding, downed power lines, and ruptured gas pipes. Drive carefully as roads may be filled with debris. Note that snakes and other wildlife may be present on streets and paths. Don't be lulled by the relative calm if the eye of the storm passes over your area--the storm will resume again as the eye moves on.

Natural hazards

Animals
Crocodiles are farmed in Vietnam for their skin and meat. Annual flooding during the rainy seasons regularly causes crocodiles to be washed from farms into neighboring rivers and lakes where they can become a hazard.

Natural hazards

Alligators/crocodiles
Don't swim or wade alone, and check the area carefully before getting in the water. Alligators and crocodiles often float with just the top of their heads showing, often resembling small floating logs. Also look for "slides" along the bank--cleared spots in the vegetation where the animals rest and then slide down into the water. Don't let your limbs dangle from a boat or dock. If you see an alligator or crocodile, leave it alone, even if it's very young--mature animals will respond aggressively to a youngster's distress call. Don't disturb eggs or nests. Never feed alligators or crocodiles, and avoid areas where others may have fed them.

Natural hazards

Additional information
Visitors intending to climb in the mountains in the country's north should engage reputable resident guides; there have been several instances of accidents that could have been avoided with local knowledge. Wilderness areas may also contain mines and unexploded ordnance.

Health & medical care

The general levels of sanitation and health care in Vietnam could present problems for some travelers. Insurance that covers medical evacuation in case of emergency is highly recommended.

Health & medical care

Medical facilities
Medical facilities in Vietnam do not meet modern standards and may not be available in rural areas. Even common supplies and medicines are not always available. Language barriers can pose serious problems. Doctors and hospitals expect immediate cash payment for services and supplies. Insurance that provides coverage for medical evacuation is strongly recommended.

Hyperbaric chambers are located in Nha Trang, Quy Nhon and Vung Tau.

Health & medical care

Diseases
Dengue fever is common year-round in many parts of Vietnam, particularly in the southern Mekong Delta region. In 2007 there was a marked increase in the number of reported cases; higher temperatures and rainfall were blamed for the nearly 20,000 new infections.

Experts predict dengue fever will increasingly spread with global warming, growing urbanization and more international travel. There is no vaccine or medication that protects against dengue so routine precautions against the disease are particularly important.

Other mosquito-borne diseases, such as malaria and Japanese encephalitis, are common in many parts of Vietnam but particularly in the South and Central Highland areas.

Typhoid can be a problem in the Mekong Delta.

Cholera is prevalent. In June 2008 the health authorities raised a nationwide alert calling for more vigilance to contain an ongoing widespread acute diarrhea and cholera outbreak after hundreds of people had been hospitalized with symptoms.

An outbreak of an intestinal virus infected several hundred children in 2008, mainly in southern Vietnam--about a dozen died. The EV71 virus, a very contagious hand, food and mouth disease, was believed to have spread from China where thousands of cases were reported.

Health officials attributed some cases to undercooked foods and unhygienic street food. Do not drink public water or water that is not bottled and sealed. Wherever possible, bottled water should be bought from reputable sources.

Vietnam has experienced outbreaks of the influenza A H5N1 virus, better known as bird flu because of its link to poultry. By the end of 2008, 52 deaths had been reported since the virus began raging across Asia in late 2003. In December 2008, following the discovery of the disease in two poultry flocks in Northern provinces; the health authorities issued a nationwide bird flu alert and warned that the killer virus could resurface strongly in the cold and wet winter months.

As many as 145,000 people contract tuberculosis in Vietnam each year, with about 20,000 of them dying from the disease.

Health & medical care

Avian influenza (bird flu)
At present there's no conclusive proof that avian flu can be transmitted from one human to another. Some health agencies are recommending that people visiting affected destinations should avoid direct contact with birds and ensure that any poultry products, including eggs, are fully cooked before eating them.

Health & medical care

Avoiding mosquito bites
Mosquitoes carry many serious illnesses, including dengue fever, malaria and West Nile virus. To prevent bites and avoid infection, reduce the amount of exposed skin by wearing long sleeves, long pants, socks and shoes when you're outdoors. Use insect repellent containing deet on exposed skin. Avoid outdoor activities from dusk to dawn, the time when mosquitoes are most active.

Health & medical care

Waterborne diseases
Waterborne diseases can cause a variety of serious health problems, including cholera, norovirus and amebiasis. In areas where chlorinated water is not available or where hygiene and sanitation are generally poor, you should consider both liquid water and ice unsafe. Stick to the following, which generally are considered safe: Beverages made with boiled water, such as tea and coffee; canned or bottled carbonated beverages; beer; and wine. It's usually safer to drink beverages directly from the bottle or can, but be sure to wipe off any water on the outside of the container. In areas where water may be contaminated, avoid brushing your teeth with tap water.

Health & medical care

Additional information
Beware of counterfeit versions of the antimalaria drug Artesunate. A recent study indicated that half of all artemisinin sold in Vietnam is fake.

Avoid drinking local wine without a brand name. In September 2008, several people reportedly died in Ho Chi Minh City as a result of fatal levels of methanol in certain types of rice wine.

Transportation

Because of poorly developed infrastructure, overland travel in Vietnam is hazardous. Some 12,800 traffic fatalities were reported in 2008. Travel arrangements should be made through reputable agencies or by trusted local associates. Road travel in heavy traffic is particularly problematic and can pose serious hazards for motorists and pedestrians.

Transportation

Road conditions
Road conditions are poor nationwide. Outside the cities, livestock compete with vehicles for road space. Exercise extra caution in the countryside and on national routes 1 and 5, as sections of both roads are in poor condition. Driving at night is especially dangerous, as roads are poorly lit and signage is minimal. Buses and trucks often travel at high speeds with bright lights. Vehicles of all types often stop in the road without any illumination.

Traffic in Vietnam is chaotic. Injuries from traffic accidents are a significant hazard; both motorists and pedestrians are at risk. At least 30 people die each day from transportation-related injuries. Traffic moves on the right, but drivers frequently cross to the left to pass or turn. Horns are used constantly, often for no apparent reason.

Streets in major cities are choked with motorcycles, cars, buses, trucks, bicycles, pedestrians and pedicabs. Drivers on motorcycles and bicycles often make sudden stops. There is little adherence to traffic laws or enforcement by traffic police. There are few traffic lights. Drivers do not yield the right-of-way.

Transportation

Public transportation
The bus network in Vietnam is cheap and comprehensive but also slow, crowded and ramshackle. The recommended alternative is to hire a car or minibus, complete with driver, through a reputable hotel. Note, however, that police may stop such vehicles and "fine" travelers for indeterminate offenses.

Stick to marked, metered taxis instead of cyclos or pedicabs, especially late at night.

Visitors transferring to and from airports should only use licensed taxis or prearranged hotel pickup. Don't accept offers of free hotel transfers, as they're likely to be bogus.

Train travel can be even slower than bus travel but usually is more relaxed. Local trains, however, are crowded. Travelers are advised to keep the metal shields in place on windows to avoid the frequent missiles thrown by children.

Transportation

Additional information
You must obtain a Vietnamese driving license from the Vietnamese Road Administration in Hanoi (fax 84-4-8571440) before driving any vehicle. It's no longer legal to ride a motorcycle without a helmet.

Penalties for driving under the influence of alcohol or causing an accident resulting in injury or death include fines, confiscation of driving permits or imprisonment. Travelers involved in traffic accidents have been barred from leaving Vietnam until they have paid compensation (in an amount often determined arbitrarily) for property damage or injuries.

Infrastructure

Facilities for travelers are not highly developed, but they have been improving in recent years. Visitors who wish to tour Vietnam War sites should understand that some battle sites are relatively inaccessible, and the Vietnamese government may deny admittance.

The country's power plants are struggling to meet the growing requirements of consumers. In 2007, planned but increasingly regular power cuts left factories at a standstill, plunged homes into darkness and turned off traffic lights--a situation typical of a country growing so fast economically. Nearly 40% of Vietnam's power comes from hydroelectric production, which is a problem in the event of drought.

Indeed, a lack of water was one of the factors behind recent power cuts. Vietnam is appealing to foreign investors, and several are already helping. In the meantime, Hanoi is trying to persuade consumers to save energy and is importing more and more electricity from big neighbor China. Anxious to keep growth on track, it wants to prevent a shortage of electricity from becoming a drag on the economy.

Travel precautions

No matter how safe you perceive a destination to be, it's important to use good judgment.

• Pay attention to local media.
  
• Avoid open displays of wealth, jewelry or other valuables. Safeguard travel documents such as passports and airline tickets.
  
• Avoid confrontations with locals.
  
• Avoid demonstrations and protests, especially if they appear political in nature.
  
• Don't permit people you don't know to enter your accommodations. Keep your door locked. Don't leave valuables in your room unless they can be locked in a safe.
  
• Avoid illegal drugs, and don't drink alcohol if its use is prohibited. Even if drinking is legal, don't overindulge.
  
• Be cautious of unsolicited offers of assistance from strangers.

In recent years, political terrorism has become a global phenomenon - an attack could occur with little warning anywhere in the world, even in destinations long regarded as safe. Travelers should keep themselves informed of developments that could affect their safety, no matter what their destination.

Personal Safety

In general, Vietnam is a fairly safe country, and the vast majority of Vietnamese are scrupulously honest. Street crime—pickpocketing and purse snatching—does occur in the bigger cities, most often along major roads and around tourist hotels. If you're riding in a cyclo (tricycle rickshaw), it's wise to keep your purse tucked away behind you, because purse snatchers have been known to whiz past on motorcycles. If you're the one on a motorbike, put your purse and valuables between you and the driver, or ask him to put it on the floor between his feet.

It's been 30 years since the fall of Saigon, and Vietnam has worked hard to clear the land of unexploded ordnance, especially near tourist areas. Unless you are hiking in extremely remote regions, it is unlikely to be a problem.

Ho Chi Minh City has a bad reputation for muggings, so be extra careful there. Do not wear jewelry or keep cell phones in back pockets, and do not drape your camera or handbag over one shoulder. Carrying your camera and valuables in a double plastic shopping bag held firmly in hand will keep them out of view. Purses should be worn around the neck and under one arm, with a protective hand firmly gripping the strap.

Hanoi has a well-earned reputation for imaginative fraud schemes, but they occur in other towns as well. Travelers should be wary of too-good-to-be-true offers. Your hotel will be able to advise you on proposals for tours or "special promotions" from restaurants.

Solo women travelers report moving through Vietnam without problem, though the young and lovely receive their share of romantic overtures. None are harmful or threatening.

In case of an emergency, call 113 for the police, 114 for the fire department and 115 for an ambulance.

For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.

Health

Hanoi, Da Nang and Ho Chi Minh City all have full-scale, modern medical facilities. Health clinics in every town can handle first-aid and minor injuries, and they will refer you to the larger centers if necessary. Medicines are often free, but donations are encouraged. There are state and private hospitals, which can provide good standard care. Sanitary conditions throughout the country can cause problems for some visitors. Most hot, freshly cooked food should be safe, but peel fresh fruits and raw vegetables, make sure meat is cooked thoroughly and never drink the tap water. Stick with bottled water, soft drinks and, of course, beer. Wine, both imported and domestic, is widely available in Vietnam (another legacy from the days of French rule). These precautions should also help prevent diseases such as cholera and typhoid, which have been reported in Vietnam.

Malaria is present in most rural areas of the country, so see your doctor about obtaining malaria suppressants. Dengue fever is becoming more prevalent, and you should remember to liberally cover all exposed areas with deet-based insect repellent (take this from home, as high-strength deet-concentration products are uncommon in Vietnam). The mosquitoes that cause dengue fever bite during the day. If you plan to travel to more remote areas, talk to your doctor about getting a rabies vaccination.

Bird flu is a source of ongoing concern in Vietnam, but mostly for duck farmers. To date, no human-adapted form of the H5N1 virus has been identified anywhere in the country. The four people who have died were all poultry farmers in remote towns; unless you plan to pursue a strong interest in poultry farming, you will not be in danger. Many women wear masks across their nose and mouth; these protect their skin from the sun (pale skin is most desirable among Vietnamese women) and are not a response to threats of a pandemic.

The sun can be very strong, so use sunscreen liberally and wear a hat. Don't forget to take along a pair of comfortable walking shoes and an adequate supply of any needed medications.

For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Disabled Advisory

Surprisingly, in a country where there are so many amputees (the result of land-mine accidents), there is little help for the disabled traveler. Only upmarket hotels have made efforts to ease travel. Staffers in all service industries are extremely helpful, but great care needs to be taken on the streets.

Dos & Don'ts

Do avoid visiting during the weeklong Tet holiday, Vietnam's lunar new year celebration that occurs in either January or February. Travel is difficult, if not impossible, during that time. Hotels are either overfilled and/or offer substantially reduced services.

Don't cross your fingers for good luck—the gesture is considered obscene by Vietnamese.

Don't point your finger at people or beckon them with the palm facing upwards.

Do remove your shoes before entering Buddhist pagodas, most private homes and even businesses. If there's a pile of shoes outside the door, add yours to it.

Don't let the soles of your feet face any sacred monument, such as a statue of Buddha.

Do not argue loudly or shout. A show of bad temper is a sign of poor emotional control and is a sure loss of face in the eyes of Vietnamese people.

Do exercise extreme caution combined with bold self-confidence when crossing the street in larger cities. Choose a thin section in the oncoming traffic, and after you've left the curb, don't hesitate, stop or run. Continue at a steady pace, and the cycles and cars will flow around you. After evaluating the traffic, do not make eye contact with motorbike or automobile drivers, as this will give them an advantage. Trucks and buses do not yield to pedestrians.

Don't be surprised if taxi drivers swarm around as soon as you clear immigration at the airport. The best plan is to have your hotel send a taxi for you. Otherwise, have your destination written out, choose one driver and stoutly ignore all the others. Taxis usually have a rate for airport-to-town transfers posted in their cabs: Locate this and verbally agree on that price before you get in the car.

Do carry a small packet of tissues in your pocket or purse. Most bathrooms (called WCs) in Vietnam are equipped with toilet paper, but it's a good idea to have your own supply with you. Many public WCs charge a small fee for their use. If you are confronted with a squat toilet, use the nearby bucket or ladle to scoop fresh water into the basin to flush waste. Wash your hands at every opportunity.

Do take a facecloth if you are accustomed to using one. They are not easily found in Vietnam. Quick-drying, antimicrobial versions are sold in the backpacking-supplies section of sporting-goods stores.

Don't, under any circumstances, be tempted to deal in the black market. Never change money on the street—it's against the law.

Don't bow from the waist as Chinese, Japanese and Koreans do. Close a conversation or transaction with a sharp bow of the head only. Shake hands only if your partner initiates the gesture. Do not touch people of the opposite sex. If you find yourself in friendly conversation with a Vietnamese friend, expect to be gently touched on the forearm or shoulder as a sign of trust.

Do receive objects and even change with both hands if that is the way it is offered. It is respectful to do so.

Don't make eye contact with street peddlers or even glance at their wares unless you're prepared for a long siege. The best gesture for "no, go away" is a flat hand moved back and forth in a sharp cutting motion at waist level.

Do negotiate a price with your moto, cyclo or taxi driver before getting in or on the vehicle. Your hotel will be able to advise you on what is a reasonable offer.

Do dress neatly and modestly. Pants should be below the knee for both men and women. Shirts should have sleeves, especially if you're visiting a religious site.

Do keep a sense of humor about you. Most Vietnamese enjoy a joke and often engage in a form of good-natured ribbing that may seem aggressive to new arrivals. Feel free to respond in kind. Where spoken language fails, a smile and pantomime that includes amusing body language will win you many friends.

Do be yourself. Most Vietnamese are as eager to learn about your culture as you are to visit theirs.

General

Business travelers will find the Socialist Republic of Vietnam one of the more Westernized countries in Asia. Vietnamese people are literate and multilingual. English, French, Russian and Spanish are widely spoken in business and government circles, as many people have been educated in France, Russia or Cuba. Unlike other countries in the region, Vietnam's traditions tend to be based on Chinese Confucianism rather than Buddhist beliefs, although both exist in harmony. Many Vietnamese are Christians, as evidenced by the cathedrals that dot the countryside. The influence of socialism is more strongly felt than the dominance of any single religion. Most Vietnamese are staunchly individualistic and proud of their independence. With this in mind, visitors will understand some behaviors that, upon first glance, appear rude. For example, when standing in a line, there may be much jostling for position, and a visitor may soon find it necessary to struggle to maintain a place in line. While this would be rude by Western standards, to the Vietnamese, proper "line etiquette" involves continual repositioning. Visitors may find they need to adjust their behavior and expectations according to a broader definition of politeness.

Personal Introductions

A handshake is the common form of greeting between foreigners and Vietnamese people of both genders. A foreign woman may extend a hand to a Vietnamese man without appearing too forward.

An alternative form of greeting would be to place the palms of the hands together and to bow the head, which elder Vietnamese sometimes initiate. A foreigner should not initiate this but may return the gesture in response to being greeted in this fashion.

Visitors should stand when introduced to someone.

Standing as a woman enters the room is not customary, unless she is being introduced as she enters.

Age is a factor in introductions in Vietnam. Vietnamese people give reverence to the older generations. Visitors should do the same, following the lead of their hosts. Older men (in their 50s through their 80s) are held in particular regard since few from those generations survived the last war.

Business cards are widely used in Vietnam. The proper etiquette when receiving a business card is to accept it between the thumb and forefinger of each hand simultaneously. (This means your hands must be free of all other objects prior to exchange of business cards.) After receiving the offered card, you may then offer your business card in the same way, with both hands.

Accepting a business card more casually is considered disrespectful. Never slide your card across the table as if you are dealing cards.

Since most Vietnamese have an excellent grasp of English, it is not necessary to have a dual-language business card. If you opt for dual-language cards (English on one side, Vietnamese on the other), the tonal marks must be perfect in order for the business card to be read in Vietnamese. Dual-language cards are not recommended unless they are perfectly executed.

Vietnamese hosts will use titles even after they have become friends with a visitor since the Vietnamese language employs modifiers for all relationships.

If the host's title is unknown, adding Mr. or Miss to the surname shown on the business card will suffice.
The last name shown on the business card is usually the person's first name. The surname is listed first.
Also note that a common first name is Dung (pronounced Zoong).

The Vietnamese use titles not only based on gender or marital status, but also based on whether the person is older or younger than the speaker and whether additional respect is due the speaker. To avoid insulting the host by making a wrong assumption regarding age or status, it is best to use the English titles Mr., Miss, Mrs., Dr. or Professor, as listed on the business card.

Vietnamese names have three parts, written in this order: surname, middle name, first name. For example, Nguyen Xuan Huong (Nguyen is the family name, Xuan is the middle name, and Huong is the first name). Taken together as a phrase, the middle and first names often bear special meaning. In this example, Xuan Huong means "spring essence.” Vietnamese would call this woman "Chi Huong" if she was a good friend, was slightly older than the speaker and was in her 30s. A foreigner would be better off calling her "Miss Huong" if she were unmarried or if her marital status was unknown to the speaker.

The first business meeting will be quite formal, often with an arrangement of chairs facing one another in two lines. A sense of familiarity is not encouraged and will not be appreciated at this first meeting. The local hosts will speak first and then will give the floor to the foreign guest of highest rank. It is best not to push too hard for your own agenda, but let the meeting take a course determined by the host. Typically, everyone of note in the meeting will be given the opportunity to speak at length.

The host will conclude the meeting, not the guest. It may require more than one meeting to establish a rapport during which business may be discussed.

Marital status is irrelevant in business. However, Vietnamese women place a high priority on being married. Therefore, if a woman introduces herself as being married, it is wise to remember this and to refer to her thereafter as Mrs., lest she take offense.

Body Language & Gestures

Vietnamese tend to require less personal space than do foreigners, because of the cramped living quarters to which they are accustomed. Visitors should prepare for some sense of personal-space infringement while conversing.

Foreign visitors should not touch Vietnamese, even in a gesture of friendliness. Visitors should stand in a relaxed style while keeping their hands out of their pockets. Crossing your arms or placing your hands on your hips will most likely be viewed as confrontational.

A Vietnamese host may gently place a hand on the guest's shoulder as an escorting gesture when they both leave a room, but this is not standard. The visitor should never reciprocate nor initiate such a gesture.

Pointing one's finger at the host is viewed as sending that person bad energy. Crossing the fingers (in a sign of good luck) is considered obscene by many. Beckoning someone to come closer by pointing a finger at your own head is considered very impolite, as is pointing at, touching or patting anyone's head.

An acceptable gesture for hailing a taxi or requesting someone to come closer is to raise the hand to waist-height, palm down, and to move the fingers in the direction of your own feet.

Conversation

English is widely spoken in Vietnamese society. Visitors should expect their hosts to understand English quite well, even if it appears they do not.

Vietnamese hosts may use an interpreter for business meetings. This formality allows the hosts to consider their answers carefully while the interpreter interprets what the hosts may already understand. Use of an interpreter also ensures that the host fully comprehends the meaning of the visitor's words so that misunderstanding is minimized.

If a visitor hosts a meeting, the visitor must bring a interpreter to avoid embarrassing the Vietnamese counterpart who may not fully grasp English or the speed with which it is spoken.

Useful Vietnamese phrases:

Xin loi (pronounced seen loy) "I'm sorry."

Toi phong tieng Viet (pronounced toy home tieng viet) "I don't speak Vietnamese."

Tieng Anh? (pronounced tieng aing) "Do you speak English?"

Xin chao (pronounced seen chow) "Hello."

Chao, tam biet (pronounced chow, tom bee-et) "Goodbye."

Bau nhieu tien? (pronounced bow nee-ew tien) "How much does it cost?"

Cam on (pronounced come earn) "Thank you."

Hen gap lai (pronounced hen gahp lah) "See you again!"

Vietnamese tend to speak softly. Reducing the volume of your speech slightly and slowing the speed will sound more polite and will be appreciated by your host.

Slang should always be avoided.

Profanity should always be avoided.

Loud behavior, wild gestures, or open-mouthed guffaws are considered impolite. Smiling is fine, and light laughter is always welcome. Pointing at your own temple (in an "I know" or "I understand" gesture) is also considered rude.

Business Appointments

It is always wise to have a local intermediary to schedule business meetings and to make the necessary arrangements in advance of and during your visit.

A government sponsor is typically not required, unless the purpose of one’s visit is especially significant to the Vietnam government. (An example of such a visit might be someone involved in trade negotiations on behalf of the U.S. government. That person might be sponsored or chaperoned in order to show Vietnam in its best light and to ensure the foreigner's safety at all times.)

It is best to contact the Vietnam embassy nearest you to receive advice on which intermediaries they recommend.

Plans for a business trip to Vietnam should ideally begin three months before the date of arrival. This will allow background checks to be completed, a Vietnam visa to be obtained, and all meetings to be properly scheduled to avoid conflict with major holidays (which are taken seriously in Vietnam). Advance time will also allow for accurate translations of all documents. Appointments may be scheduled one month in advance.

Vietnamese are extremely punctual. Visitors should be on time for all meetings and should expect the host to arrive at the meeting room within minutes of the guests. (Be assured that the host was not late but rather was awaiting your arrival, allowing you a moment to become seated before entering.)

Business Negotiating

Business meetings are conducted in offices or meeting rooms. Usually the meeting rooms are quite formal. Allow the host to indicate where you should be seated.

Business is never conducted over meals. Discussing business over a meal is considered to be in very bad taste. The visitor may discuss business after the meal is completely finished and may begin that discussion over the coffee or tea that signals the conclusion of the meal—not before.

Business travelers are well advised to avoid suggesting business lunches, as these will prove unsatisfactory from both a culinary and a business perspective.

Vietnamese tea or coffee (sweetened with condensed milk) will be poured before the start of the business meeting. The green tea is bitter to Western palettes, but it should never be refused or sweetened with sugar.

The host may not drink until the visitor does, so do not hesitate to taste your cup after everyone is seated. Do not empty the cup since the host is bound to keep your cup from being emptied. If you drink it dry, your host will keep refilling it to be polite. If you don’t wish to have more, don’t put your hand over the cup. Simply say, "No, thank you.” If you never empty the cup, you will not have to say this. The host may "top off" your cup, but it can remain untouched without disgrace.

The format of the meeting will typically run as follows: welcome by the host, introduction of everyone in attendance, statement by the host, statement by the guest, statements by all those in attendance who are relevant to the purpose of the meeting, short discussion as to the purpose of the meeting and conclusions by the host. (It is not reasonable to expect important decisions to be made in the context of the first meeting.)

If fruit is served, wait until all business is concluded before you eat. The host will gesture when you may take fruit. If you refuse, the host will also not eat, and if the host does not eat, no one will touch the fruit. Therefore, you must take one and attempt to eat it.

Typically, all business begins with a recapitulation of the purpose of the meeting, not with small talk. The host will usually provide the recap unless the visitor has called the meeting. In that case, the visitor must provide the recap, including items well known to all participants.

Prior to the formal meeting, there may be small talk about the health of one's family, the weather or the quality of the visitor’s flight.

For obvious reasons, if you are visiting from the U.S., all references to the Vietnam War or your own participation in it should be avoided, as it will make the hosts uncomfortable (and note that Vietnamese refer to it as the American War).

Comments about communism, socialism and capitalism should generally be avoided since most foreign visitors do not understand how these apply to modern-day Vietnam. Politics (past or present) should similarly be avoided.

Visitors should not attempt a hard sell in Vietnam, as this tactic is not appreciated.

A soft-sell tactic in which the hosts are advised of all the facts and references will be most acceptable. Allow two or three meetings in order to ascertain the answer to your sales pitch. Vietnamese people do not like to be pressured into making decisions.

Meals & Entertainment

Vietnamese eat regularly at noon and do not take kindly to delay. After lunch, most people take a short rest, which ends at 1:30 pm. Scheduling a business lunch that effectively robs the hosts of their nap is not wise.

A business dinner may be scheduled. However, business may not be discussed until the final coffee or tea is served.

Business breakfasts are not common.

It is unlikely that a business-related meal will take place in a private home, as the Vietnamese reserve their home for people whom they seek to befriend. Otherwise, they keep business at the office.

If you are invited to the home of a Vietnamese business associate, consider this a high honor, but be sure to leave all discussion of business out of the event.

Meals in restaurants will usually last 90 minutes, depending largely on the speed of service.

A meal in a modern Vietnamese home is usually consumed while seated around a table, Western style.
In homes in the countryside, meals are still taken while the family is seated on the floor, around a central soup dish or rice bowl. This style of dining may also be seen in the cities in more traditional households or for casual dining.

There is no set seating arrangement, although the host will indicate where the guests should seat themselves.

Men and women always dine together. It is not customary for men to rise when women arrive or leave the table.

Cool moist towels are given to guests to clean their hands before a meal. These may also be used again if one's hands become soiled during the meal.

Cloth napkins are standard in most fine restaurants. For the more common restaurants, a roll of toilet paper hidden in a container on the table will be your main source of napkins. The rules for use of napkins are the same as in the West.

Vietnamese meals are served in courses. The first course is usually a nem (similar to an egg roll appetizer). Main dishes follow the appetizer course.

Since meals are often served in central bowls from which everyone takes food, it is most polite to serve yourself with the reverse end of your chopsticks.

When eating with chopsticks, never point or gesture with them. Never rest the chopsticks in the bowl—place them on the chopstick rest next to your plate or across the rice bowl, parallel to the person opposite you.

Many visitors find that they cannot use chopsticks with any degree of dexterity. Losing one's food can be embarrassing, so most Vietnamese households and restaurants provide standard utensils upon request. Just ask.

Typically, Vietnamese officials will eat in a leisurely fashion, taking an hour to eat a meal. The occasion may begin with a toast of wine or champagne and will conclude with tea or coffee. After the meal, the Vietnamese person of highest rank will rise to leave. This signals the end of the occasion. Everyone else will file out within moments after that person has exited. It is not good practice to suggest that some stay and "party" or even "talk further.”

It is never acceptable to refuse the food that the host puts on your plate. And it insults the host if you put the food back or give it to someone else.

In Vietnamese culture, a polite host gives the best portions to the guest and always makes sure that the guest is getting enough food to eat. This tends to conflict with the Western belief that polite guests eat everything on their plate. Doing so while in the presence of your Vietnamese host will result in the host giving you more food as rapidly as you clean your plate. It is best to eat slowly, pacing yourself according to the pace of your host. You may find that leaving some small amounts of food untouched for long periods will allow you to finish simultaneously with your host.

The same rule applies for drinks. If your glass runs dry, it will be refilled promptly, and you may find that the refills never end. Instead, drink slowly and leave some in the glass.

It is important to know that the main course of a Vietnamese meal ends with rice. Therefore, even though rice is served with the meal, it is only eaten at the end of the meal, to "fill the gaps" if one is still hungry. This rice is usually eaten with soup, which is put into the rice bowl along with rice to conclude the meal.

Vietnamese people love desserts and will either serve custard, ice cream, a fruit plate or an exceptional cake or pastry. This will be served with green tea or coffee.

If you do not like the taste of something, you may eat it very slowly or you may pretend to eat it, if you can do so convincingly. Ultimately, you may leave it on your plate if you really do not like it.

Spitting out chewed food is taboo. However, manually removing pits or bones from one's mouth is not taboo when done delicately.

If you have allergies or strong preferences, you must advise your host in advance.

You may decline to eat something by making a joke on yourself (for instance, "watching my weight" or "too rich for me"). You should never make a joke of the host or the cook.

Remember that millions of Vietnamese people have starved in the past 50 years. Many people you may meet today remember those times. Therefore, if they serve sumptuous foods, it is likely that they are giving you higher quality food than they usually eat. If they mistakenly serve meat and you are vegetarian, try to eat along with them. Otherwise, your well-mannered host will not eat it either.

At the conclusion of the meal, make sure there is no food attached to your chopsticks. Leave the chopsticks either on the chopstick rest next to your plate or place them together across your plate or bowl, parallel to the person opposite you.

For foods such as chicken wings, the fingers may be used. At the conclusion of this course, or at the conclusion of the meal, a bowl of warm water with lemon, tea leaves, or fragrant flowers floating in it will be brought to the table. Do not drink this—it is for finger dipping. The hands may then be dried using your napkin.

After the meal, everyone will use toothpicks to clean their teeth while at the table. You may do this as well, but be sure to cover your mouth with your free hand while you perform this operation.

Simply excuse yourself and leave if you must use the restroom.

Vietnamese people enjoy fine beer, wine, vodka and champagne. If you cannot drink for some reason (either religious or medical), it is quite acceptable to request a glass of water with which to join the toast. It is not uncommon for Vietnamese people to refrain from alcohol, and many other beverage choices are given during a meal.

A typical toast would be "To your health!" It is always best to allow the Vietnamese host to make the toast. It is most appropriate to suggest that the highest-ranking Vietnamese at the table make the toast, even if the foreign visitor is the host of the evening.

If your Vietnamese hosts take you to a restaurant, they will be insulted if you attempt to pay the bill.

If you are paying the bill, a standard 10%-15% tip is acceptable without seeming effusive. More than that is considered showing off.

Be sure to double check the bill, as many restaurants add the tip as a matter of course. In that case, you leave no additional tip.

Dress

In business situations, men may wear a business suit with a tie. However, it is not uncommon to see short-sleeved shirts, with or without a tie, as the climate can be very hot and the air conditioning inadequate.

Women should strive to be more smartly dressed than men in order to garner appropriate respect.

White is the color of funerals and mourning, so this color should be avoided until the culture is more familiar to you. White shirts are fine, but all-white outfits should be avoided, particularly white headbands, which are only worn by the grief-stricken.

Vietnamese are more casual in their dress than most Asians. T-shirts and jeans are perfectly acceptable on vacation or when relaxing.

Shorts are quite acceptable while on vacation. However, short shorts are to be avoided. Shorts or revealing shirts should never be worn when visiting temples or pagodas.

Sneakers are acceptable for casual attire but should not be worn in business situations.

Gift Giving

When visiting a host's home, always bring flowers, wine or a small gift. A wrapped gift may not be opened in the presence of the giver.

In a business context, you may give a small gift to the host or to the host organization, but do not expect that it will be opened in your presence.

For business gifts, it is ideal to bring something from your own country. Bear in mind when selecting a gift that Vietnamese have access to fine French wines, Russian vodka, Belgian chocolates and Cuban cigars. Try to find a gift that admirably represents your country.

A gift costing from US$25-$50 is recommended.

When selecting flowers, it is wise to rely on the florist's advice. Some flowers in Vietnam are used only as funeral flowers. There are no rules governing colors or numbers of flowers.

It is always a good policy to send thank-you notes after entertainment or the conclusion of business meetings. These may be sent by mail or e-mail, handwritten or typed. There is no standard rule.

Gender Issues

The Vietnamese constitution protects the rights of women, and there have been many efforts toward equality over the years.

Women often hold key positions in Vietnamese business, and it should never be assumed that a woman in a business meeting is playing a supporting role.

Foreign women are held in high regard and will encounter no obstacles when conducting business meetings.

Women are not prevented from visiting any places or events in Vietnam.

The rules on public transportation are the same for both men and women.

Vietnamese dress for women is increasingly modern and sexy by Asian standards. However, for business attire, foreign women are advised to use good judgment when selecting their clothing. Revealing blouses or miniskirts should be avoided in order to garner respect.

Although it is not generally stated, married women are more respected than are single women. Similarly, married women with children are more revered than are married women who are childless.

A woman won't experience any unwanted attention or censure if she is unaccompanied in public.

Other Useful Information

Hand Holding—Vietnamese have one of the most open Asian cultures with regard to displays of affection. It is not uncommon to see women holding hands as they walk or to see men walking arm in arm or hugging each other as they amble along. These signs of affection are considered natural among good friends.

The Tet Holiday—Tet is the Lunar New Year festival, and during this holiday, all shops and businesses close. The first year I lived in Hanoi, I failed to reckon with this fact and found myself without necessities during a three-day period, unable to proceed with work and generally stymied. Work slows in the weeks prior to Tet and resumes slowly in the days afterward. However, if you are in Hanoi during Tet, it is a wonderful opportunity to see the culture in blossom, as families draw close together, eat special cakes and treats, and give gifts for a prosperous new year. And similar to "first footing" customs in the U.K., the first people to come to your house on the first day of Tet bring their good (or bad) luck. If you are invited to come to a Vietnamese home the first day of Tet, accept only if you have had a prosperous past year, no deaths in your family or other calamities. If any of these have befallen you, you must respectfully decline to come the first day and must give a brief explanation as to why. Your hosts will thank you and will likely ask you to come the following day, after others have brought them a store of good luck. Business travelers who do not wish to celebrate the holiday should avoid traveling the weeks before, during and after Tet. The dates change every year, so consult the Vietnam embassy or consulate in your area.

Taboo & Other Issues

The only taboos are references to the war with America. This taboo holds in social and business situations.

When entering a temple or pagoda, it is wise to step completely over the threshold, not to step directly on it. And even if you do not recognize the deity, it is best never to point your feet at the deity.

Inquiries about the host's family are always appreciated, as it demonstrates a willingness to go beyond merely business.

Visitors to Vietnamese homes are expected to remove their shoes before entering, regardless of what the host says. For that reason, slip-on shoes may be preferable to shoes with laces.

Visitors to a Vietnamese home may compliment the home in general terms but should avoid complimenting a particular possession in the home, as the host may feel obliged to offer it to the guest. Should this occur, the guest must not refuse the gift, however embarrassing it may be to accept it. It is wise to avoid this situation by generalizing your compliments.

Some Vietnamese may judge visitors by their choice of hotel, feeling that an expensive hotel connotes respect. Other Vietnamese may consider visitors very shrewd for saving on their travel allowances by staying at a more modest hotel. There is no hard-and-fast rule on this.

It is unwise for visitors to drive themselves. The traffic patterns are not typical, and the pace is alarming. Hiring a car and driver is optimal for safety and security.

It is polite to ask people if you may photograph them or their house. If they shake their head "no,” you may not photograph them, as they will be shamed if you do so. Some Vietnamese do not like to be photographed and will refuse if they feel your photograph will demean them. Therefore, always ask permission. If they deny it, simply thank them and walk away.

It is taboo in Vietnam to photograph three people standing together. When you are arranging formal photographs of significant meetings or events, always make sure to avoid this arrangement. Vietnamese people believe that a photograph thus shot means that the person in the center will soon become separated from the other two.

Hotel Overview

Since 1997, Vietnam has seen a veritable explosion of hotel construction. In Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, as well as popular tourist towns such as Hoi An, you'll find both five-star hotels and a good range of four-star and business hotels, often run in joint-venture arrangements with international groups. In Ho Chi Minh City, the classic place to stay is the Continental, where Graham Greene wrote The Quiet American. Most of the major hotels now include spas, beauty treatments and gyms.

Guesthouses and mini-hotels are to be found in all but the smallest towns. For a very low price, you will have a clean, comfortable room with daily housekeeping service, air-conditioning and hot-water shower. Most guesthouse prices include breakfast, and in the south there is frequently a small swimming pool in a courtyard or private garden. Ask to see the room you will be staying in before signing the registration form. As a rule, you will be asked to leave your passport at the desk—don't forget to retrieve it at checkout time.

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: Passports and visas are necessary for citizens of Canada and the U.S. Passports must have at least a year left before expiration. Visas must be obtained prior to arrival. They are available from any Vietnamese Embassy, whether in the U.S. or in the capitals of neighboring Cambodia, Laos or China. You will need three passport-size photos to complete your application. When leaving, expect to pay a departure tax at the airport and make sure you still have the departure form that was given to you when you arrived in the country. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your travel agent before departure.

Population: 84,402,966.

Languages: Vietnamese (official), French, English, Chinese..

Predominant Religions: Buddhist (Theravada and Mahayana), Christian (Roman Catholic), Taoist..

Time Zone: 7 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+7 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.

Telephone Codes: 84, country code; 4,Hanoi city code; 8,Ho Chi Minh City code;

Currency Exchange

The dong is the currency of Vietnam. ATMs frequently offer 2 million dong withdrawals. This takes some getting used to. You will learn to count zeros backward from right to left to determine if you are holding a 1,000- or 10,000-dong note in your hand. U.S. dollars are accepted in most locations, but you'll have a better time negotiating a good price if you stick to the dong.

The easiest way to obtain local currency is through ATMs, which are found throughout the country in towns and cities. ATMs only dispense dong, never U.S. dollars. Banks and better hotels also offer exchange services, but the rates won't be as favorable. Do not change money on the street. All major credit cards can be used in more upscale locations but are rarely accepted in smaller shops and restaurants. Any credit card transactions will incur a 3% or 4% surcharge on the purchase price. As ATMs become more widespread, traveler's checks are becoming less negotiable and will be subject to at least a 2% surcharge where they are accepted.

Do spend down all your dong before leaving Vietnam, because dong cannot be converted back into American or Canadian currency, nor is it possible to exchange dong for the currency of any neighboring countries.

Banking Hours

Banks are open Monday-Friday 8 am-3 pm.

Tipping

Tipping is fairly new in Vietnam, and it's more commonly seen in the southern part of the country. Gratuities usually aren't necessary in inexpensive restaurants, but even a small tip will be greatly appreciated. If you're going to visit a restaurant regularly, a tip is a worthy investment to ensure prompt service. Upscale places will often tack on a 5%-12% service charge. Tips for taxi drivers are purely optional (and most appreciated, however small). Good service should always be acknowledged with a small tip left behind on the table.

Weather

If you plan to visit the entire country, the best months are October-December, when temperatures are relatively mild and nights are cool (highs around 88 F/31 C, lows around 71 F/22 C). Temperatures are lower in the northern part of the country, so take along a sweater and a wind- and rain-protective jacket. January-March is foggy and drizzly in the north, but sunny and pleasant in the south. The mountains can be quite cold in winter, with occasional snowfall at higher elevations. May-September is the hot, humid monsoon season in the south, when temperatures reach 92 F/33 C and fall to only about 76 F/24 C. Be warned that monsoons can turn roads to mud, and keep your travel plans flexible if visiting at that time of year.

What to Wear

Pack lightly when preparing for your trip to Vietnam. Clothes are inexpensive to purchase as needed, depending on where and when you choose to travel. Here are a few items you won't find available, though:

Sweaters and hoodies—you'll want these for evenings in the Central Highlands at most times of the year, and in the north during the winter months.

Comfortable shoes—both sandals for warm weather and sneakers or trekking shoes for cooler climes and rougher terrain.

Cosmetics—most face creams for women in Vietnam have names such as "white beauty" or "pale as moonlight," which indicates that it contains a white pigment. A streaky white complexion is probably not the look you're aiming for.

If you're traveling for business, prepare to dress sharply in well-tailored business suits (for both men and women). It may be easier (and more fun) to have a couple of suits custom-made for you by the expert tailors in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City or Hoi An. The price for a bespoke suit in Vietnam is a fraction of what you'd pay for off-the-rack ones in the U.S. Silk ties are a bargain, too, and are sold in most hotel boutiques. Do remember to take business shoes. The only conservative office shoes available in Vietnam are second-hand from Europe and North America. Women's shoes are considerably easier to find, though larger sizes are not.

Most all Vietnamese dress conservatively in clean, pressed clothes with short- or long-sleeved shirts (not sleeveless or halter-top) and full- or capri-length pants. Tight or revealing clothing is not acceptable, even in the major cities.

Telephone

Pay phones are everywhere, but you will need a phone card (available at pharmacies and convenience stores) to call overseas. International direct-dial phones can be found in Internet shops and are the most cost-effective way to phone home. Hotels will often have direct-dial-out from your room, but be sure to ascertain the rate before you dial. If your mobile phone requires a SIM card, you can buy one from a Vietnamese phone company at phone stores in almost every town. GSM-enabled phones allow you to use the same phone number no matter where you travel.

Internet Access

Even in very small towns, travelers will find at least one Internet cafe, and in the more popular tourist cities there are sometimes two or three per block around the hotel zones. All four- and five-star hotels have some form of broadband connectivity in guest rooms, with Wi-Fi in public areas and the business center. It's wise to pack a LAN cable for times when wireless service isn't installed. Many Internet cafes will allow laptop owners to plug into their ADSL server.

Mail & Package Services

The Vietnamese postal system is dependable, but costs for large parcels are comparable to a private carrier such as DHL. The process of filling out all the required forms in duplicate, by hand, can take up most of the morning. Don't bother to tape your package shut, as postal workers will need to approve all contents, and you must list them item by item on the shipping form.

DHL and FedEx have offices in the major cities, and their protocol is considerably easier to follow. DHL offers packaging, even for odd-shaped and bulky items. The post office will pack your treasures up, also, but often in a collection of used cardboard cobbled together with yards of packing tape. Some postal workers are grand masters of this useful craft, and it's fascinating to watch them fabricate a sturdy box out of bits and scraps.

Newspapers & Magazines

The Viet Nam News is the country's nationwide English-language newspaper, with well-written international news and local features with a decidedly pro-Party slant. More local information about restaurants and nightlife is best obtained from brochures in the hotels or from your knowledgeable desk clerk.

Bus

Public buses are relatively modern but often overcrowded. For intercity travel, the Open Bus system is a fine alternative to air or train travel. One inexpensive ticket from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City allows you to stop in any of the cities along its route (and most tourist destinations are on that list) for as long as you like, then pick up the bus for the next leg of your journey. Check with any Sinh Cafe office for details.

Car

Travel between cities by private car and driver is not only possible but affordable, and it is especially recommended for a trip over the mountains between Hue and Hoi An. Renting a car for self-drive expeditions is quite expensive. It's only possible if you return to the same city you've hired it in. A lack of service stations and confusing multiple speed limits argue for hiring a driver who knows the rules and speaks the language.

Train

Rail service is quite comfortable but not particularly speedy. The fastest service between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City takes between 29 and 46 hours. "Soft seat" class is quite comfortable for daytime travel, but we recommend a "soft sleeper" berth at night. Be sure to ask for an air-conditioned car. Trains should be booked a day or two ahead of time, especially during peak holidays. Each segment of the rail journey requires a separate ticket: There are no on/off privileges. There's also an international train that connects Hanoi to Beijing, China.

For More Information

Tourist Offices

The Vietnam Tourist Boards in the various towns will advise on trips you wish to make, but they have no handouts or information on the area.

Vietnam does not have tourist offices in Canada or the U.S.

Vietnam Embassies

Canada: Embassy of Vietnam, 470 Wilbrod St., Ottawa, ON K1N 6M8. Phone 613-236-0772. Fax 613-236-2704.

U.S.: Embassy of Vietnam, 1233 20th St. N.W., Suite 400, Washington, DC 20036. Phone 202-861-0737. Fax 202-861-0917. http://www.vietnamembassy-usa.org.

Foreign Embassies in Vietnam

Canadian Embassy, 31 Hung Vuong St., Hanoi. Phone 4-823-5500. Fax 4-823-5333. There is also a consulate in Ho Chi Minh City.

U.S. Embassy, 7 Lang Ha St., Hanoi. Phone 4-772-1500. Fax 4-772-1510. There is also a consulate in Ho Chi Minh City.

Additional Reading

The Quiet American by Graham Greene (Penguin). The story of an American adviser in Vietnam during the last days of French occupation.

A Good Scent From a Strange Mountain by Robert Olen Butler (Grove Press). A selection of superbly crafted stories that provide insight into modern Vietnam.

Shadows and Wind by Robert Templer (Penguin). An exceptional introduction to modern Vietnam, without sentimentality or political slant.

When Heaven and Earth Changed Places by Le Ly Hayslip (Plume). Arguably the best book ever written about life in Vietnam's central provinces during the war with the U.S. (It was the basis for Oliver Stone's movie Heaven and Earth.)

A Dragon Apparent: Travels in Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam by Norman Lewis (Eland Books). Vietnam before it was engulfed by war.

Romancing Vietnam by Justin Wintle (Viking). Contemporary travel writing.