Founded in the 10th century, Vilnius (pop. 549,000), the capital of Lithuania, exudes a warm, Northern European charm. Start your tour of Vilnius on Castle Hill, where Gedimino Tower offers a spectacular view of the city. It was there that Lithuania's yellow, green and red flag was raised in 1988 for the first time in decades. To the northeast is the 14th-century church of Saints Peter and Paul, with a plain facade that belies its sumptuous interior. And just to the west, at the foot of the hill, is Gediminas Square, with a Roman Catholic cathedral (built on the site of a pagan temple) and bell tower.
Another, even more haunting monument has dominated the city since 1989—the hill of the three crosses. The crosses, which can be seen for many miles/kilometers around, were erected in the 1600s to commemorate Franciscan martyrs (so the story goes) but were torn down by the Soviets. The crosses were triumphantly re-erected in 1989.
We enjoyed walking from the square, through the University of Vilnius (baroque architecture, lovely frescoes and picturesque courtyards—especially in St. John's Church) and past the domed Church of St. Casimir. Casimir is the patron saint of Lithuania and, under Soviet rule, the church became a museum of atheism in 1966. (It became a church again in the late 1980s.) Continue from St. Casimir's to Ausra (Dawn) Gate, the last remaining part of the city walls. The icon of the Virgin Mary still resides in the chapel above the gates, and you can see the devoutly Catholic people of the city cross themselves as they pass into the city.
There are a number of museums in the city, including the Jewish History Museum. Vilnius, once known as "Northern Jerusalem," claimed a prewar population of 70,000 Jews. But Nazi atrocities took a terrible toll, reducing the population to about 800. The current Jewish population is less than 5,000. The Amber Museum is a chic, modern place that's best known for its gift shop: You can buy some lovely pieces of amber there. The National Museum of Lithuania, a historical museum with folk costumes, folk art and archaeological exhibits, is also worth a look.
The Victims of Genocide Museum, located in a section of the former KGB headquarters, documents the cruel treatment of political prisoners by the KGB during the Soviet era. Guided tours are given by the facility's former "guests."
To the west of town is Vingio Park, a large grassy area where mass meetings took place to protest the Soviet occupation. During the Dairu Svente (Festival of Songs), a choir of up to 20,000 voices performs at the open-air theater in the park.
Outside of town is the lively Gariunai market, where residents go to buy hard-to-find goods from Poland, Turkey and China. A day trip can be made to Paneriai, a World War II death camp, where more than 100,000 Lithuanians and Poles (mostly Jews) were murdered by the Nazis. A visit to the site is extremely moving.
