On Virgin Gorda, the hallmarks of a British Virgin Islands vacation—scenery, relaxation and the sea—become even more pronounced. You won't find a lot of activities on Virgin Gorda, but if you enjoy superb snorkeling, scuba diving, sailing and small-scale exclusive resorts, you'll be quite pleased. Because there's only one tiny town—Spanish Town—visitors spend most of their time unwinding at a resort or beach or enjoying the sea.
Although it's a small island, Virgin Gorda's landscape is diverse, with the south rather flat (though partially covered with granite boulders) and the north mountainous (one peak reaches more than 1,300 ft/400 m). Four islands lie very close to its north: Drake's Island (also called Mosquito Island), Prickly Pear Island, Necker Island and Eustatia Island. A group of islands called the Dogs lies to its west. The granite boulders in the south bring many visitors to Virgin Gorda. An area called the Baths is a must-see and is one of the most photographed areas of the British Virgin Islands.
History
Archaeological evidence suggests that Virgin Gorda's first residents were tribes of Ciboney, Arawak and Carib Indians. In 1493, Christopher Columbus became the first European visitor to the cluster of islands, which he dubbed
Las Virgenes. Not long after, notorious pirates such as Bluebeard and Captain Kidd saw Virgin Gorda as a land of plenty in that its many hidden coves and shallow waters made a perfect headquarters from which to ravage ships bound for Europe from the New World.
The island's population didn't begin to grow until the British took control in the late 1700s and established a thriving sugar industry. The abolition of slavery in 1838 severely bruised the plantation economy and sent most of the island's European settlers packing. It was not until the 1960s, when Laurence Rockefeller established a resort on Little Dix Bay, that the sleepy island's economy saw a rebirth in tourism. Much to the delight of its residents and visitors, it has remained a quiet and unspoiled destination that has not fallen victim to overdevelopment.
Potpourri
One of the most impressive and photographed natural phenomena is The Baths, an area of massive granite boulders that form a series of grottoes and caves partly flooded by the sea.
Virgin Gorda is the ideal habitat for rare amphibians, including three species of tree frogs and the world's smallest lizard, the Virgin Gorda gecko.
Virgin Gorda means fat virgin in Spanish and received its name from the profile Columbus' sailors saw in 1493 when they spotted the island.
Copper was extracted by Carib Indians in Virgin Gorda for trade. In the 1500s, Spaniards from Puerto Rico mined for gold but only found copper.
Google cofounder Larry Page wed Lucy Southworth on Necker Island in 2007 and rented all of Virgin Gorda for their wedding guests.
Historic Sites
Coppermine Point, on the island's southeast tip, offers some rather sketchy ruins of a Cornish copper mine dating back to the mid-1800s and possibly an even older Spanish mine. All that's left are remains of a chimney, boiler house, cistern and mine shaft. But it's the view that attracts—the strong surf makes for lots of waves crashing against the rocky point, and in the distance is nothing but a vast stretch of the Caribbean Sea. If you like ruins, you may also want to check out the remains of a sugar mill up near Nail Bay, not too far from the Gorda Peak National Park.
Parks & Gardens
If there is one must-see place to visit in Virgin Gorda, it is undoubtedly The Baths. This beach studded with giant granite boulders has caves, grottoes and large rock pools. It lies on one corner of the Sir Francis Drake Channel and is one of several national parks in Virgin Gorda. http://www.bvinationalparkstrust.org.
To the east of The Baths and on the southwestern tip of the island are Spring Bay and Devil's Bay national parks. Just south of Yacht Harbour in the southern region lies Little Fort National Park, a 36-acre/15-hectare wildlife sanctuary that was once the site of an old Spanish fortress. On a larger scale, Gorda Peak National Park is a 265-acre/107-hectare national park with a variety of indigenous and exotic plants. The park, which contains the second-highest peak in the British Virgin Islands at 1,370 ft/425 m above sea level, features an observation tower at the top. It has hiking trails and picnic benches.
Beaches
The southwestern shore of Virgin Gorda has several small, beautiful beaches strewn with giant, smooth-surfaced boulders. On most days, the water is calm and the snorkeling is good.
The most famous—and crowded—of these beaches is The Baths, an area of giant, house-sized boulders that create sea caves and grottoes for swimming and snorkeling. There's a path through the boulders that has staircases and rope holds to help you along the difficult parts. The Baths are one of the most-photographed areas in the British Virgin Islands and justly so—the way the light plays amongst the crevices between the mammoth rocks and the shallow pools of seawater is quite stunning. But don't expect to be alone—the area is always fairly crowded with daytrippers. A walk to the top of the hill above the Baths takes you to a restaurant, a little shopping complex and, around the corner, a popular open-air bar with a pleasant view.
If you're looking for more privacy, walk 15 minutes south from the Baths to Devil's Bay. Another beach to consider is Spring Bay Beach, which lies between the Baths and the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour. Five minutes north of the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour by car, Savannah Bay Beach is probably Virgin Gorda's prettiest stretch of sand. It's long and generally has calm water. Vixen Point on Prickly Pear Island is one of the best northern beaches.
Boating & Sailing
For sailing lessons or to rent any craft from Windsurfers on up, try the Bitter End Yacht Club on the North Sound (phone 284-494-2746; http://www.beyc.com). Leverick Bay Water Sports Center (phone 284-495-7376; http://www.leverickbay.com) also rents Windsurfers, Sunfish, kayaks and small powerboats. Expect to pay about US$20-$30 per hour for personal watercraft such as kayaks, Sunfish or Hobie Waves. A full-day rental of a small powerboat—a great way to see the islands—costs about US$210-$350. You can also make arrangements to charter a sailboat from the Yacht Harbour. A skippered outing starts at about US$55 for a half-day, US$80 for a full day.
Hiking & Walking
Gorda Peak National Park, managed by The National Parks Trust, is home to Virgin Gorda's highest point (1,359 ft/414 m). The park has two entrances off the road that runs between North Sound and Spanish Town. Self-guided trails lead through a forest that includes mahogany trees (a large number of them were planted in an attempt at reforestation). The views are not particularly good on the way up because the underbrush is thick, but once you get to the top, you'll find the views are an ample reward for the rather strenuous 45-minute hike. Take water and wear hiking shoes. But Virgin Gorda's most popular hike—a rather short trek requiring no shoes—is known as
The Crawl. It originates from The Baths and travels to the beach at Devil's Bay. The adventure includes crawling through caverns and crossing over the trademark boulders of The Baths.
Scuba & Snorkeling
Snorkeling is the favorite watersport of Virgin Gorda. Besides The Baths, several other places have good snorkeling—notably Devil's Bay. But inquire locally before selecting a site: The best place varies from day to day depending on the direction of the wind. At the Blinders, near The Baths, you can also explore submerged boulders.
Divers will also enjoy these sites, as well as deeper spots around South Bay on Ginger Island, where there's a gently sloping wall of hard coral. Longer excursions head to other dive sites in the B.V.I. One of the best-known is the wreck of the RMS Rhone, near Salt Island. It lies on a slope with the stern in water shallow enough for snorkelers. The wreck is covered with coral and attracts many fish.
Dive B.V.I. at the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour and Leverick Bay (phone 284-495-5513; http://www.divebvi.com) offers both snorkeling and scuba-diving excursions. Half-day snorkeling trips cost about US$80, and you can rent flippers, mask and snorkel. You must be a certified diver and present your C card to rent equipment and go diving. A one-tank dive runs about US$65, a two-tank dive about US$100. Another outfit providing snorkel and scuba trips is Kilbrides Sunchaser Scuba at the Bitter End Resort (phone 284-495-9638; http://www.sunchaserscuba.com). It's best to make reservations in advance.
Nightlife
Virgin Gorda is a quiet island. Live bands entertain at some of the resorts several nights a week and at some bars in Spanish Town and elsewhere on weekends.
Three resorts to try for evening activity are Little Dix Bay, Leverick Bay and Bitter End Yacht Club. At Leverick Bay (284-295-7154, http://www.therestaurantatleverickbay.com), Jumbies Beach Bar and Grille features live reggae music on Tuesday night and live Caribbean music on Friday.
Several restaurants feature live music one or two nights a week, including Chez Bamboo's Friday night jazz jam (phone 284-495-5752), the Mine Shaft Cafe on Tuesday and Friday (phone 284-495-5260), and Bath & Turtle on Wednesday evenings (phone 284-495-5239). You can also find live music most nights of the week at the Bitter End in North Sound (phone 284-494-2745).
Shopping
There is limited shopping on Virgin Gorda. The Spanish Town Yacht Harbour has the largest collection—about a handful—of shops on the island. The stores, which sell jewelry, local crafts, clothing, souvenirs, film and sunscreen, are clustered around two courtyards. There are also several souvenir stores and a T-shirt shop at the Baths.
If you visit Virgin Gorda on a cruise ship, be aware that the local shops recommended by tour operators, taxi drivers and your ship's port lecturer generally pay for the privilege. Prices at the shops recommended by the ship may be somewhat higher than others, but passengers usually get a money-back guarantee, valid for 30 days.
Shopping Hours: Generally Monday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm. A few shops are also open on Sundays.
Local Tours
Typical tours around Virgin Gorda include stops to the mountains of Gorda Peak National Park, copper mine ruins, The Baths and other island beaches, and to Yacht Harbour and Leverick Bay.
There aren't many local tour companies, but options include Andy's Jeep Rentals and Tours (phone 284-495-5252) and Speedy's & Virgin Gorda Transport LTD (phone 284-495-5240/5235; http://www.speedysbvi.com). Most taxi drivers are happy to give island tours on the spur of the moment. Expect to pay US$20-$25 per person for a 90-minute tour. (There's no set hourly rate.) L&S Jeep Rental in South Valley (phone 284-495-5297, http://www.landsjeeprentals.com) and Mahogany Car Rentals in Spanish Town (phone 284-495-5469, http://www.mahoganycarrentalsbvi.com) also offer island tours.
For a bird's-eye view of the island, check into a sightseeing charter tour via Island Helicopters. Call for pricing. Phone 284-499-2663.
Dining Overview
Virgin Gorda is so sparsely populated that there aren't many restaurants, and most are very casual. Those you find serve sandwiches, pizzas and hamburgers at lunch and offer typical beef, chicken and lamb entrees plus local fish and lobster in the evening. Prices are generally reasonable, but those in the island's resorts may be a bit on the high side.
Expect to pay within these guidelines for a meal for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$15; $$ = US$15-$25; $$$ = US$26-$50; $$$$ = more than US$50.
Personal Safety
Crime is rare on Virgin Gorda, but take the usual precautions: Don't tempt fate by leaving valuable items unattended. Tourists are not the targets of crime, nor is purse snatching or pickpocketing common.
For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Health
You can eat the food and drink the water on Virgin Gorda. The island does not have a hospital, just two small medical clinics. The emergency number to call for an ambulance is 999.
For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
Dos & Don'ts
Do visit The Baths—and don't miss the 20-minute hike under, around and over the rocks to Devil's Bay. The Baths is a natural phenomenon of granite boulders and grottos, an awesome experience and one of the most-photographed beaches in the world.
Don't touch the poisonous manchineel trees that grow along some coastal sites. These trees have a sap that causes blisters and painful eye irritation, and the fruit is toxic.
Do keep covered while at the beach because nudity and topless bathing are frowned upon.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S.
Beginning 1 June 2009, passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.
Languages: English.
Time Zone: 4 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-4 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.
Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.
Telephone Codes: 284, area code;
Currency Exchange
First Bank at the Yacht Harbour in Spanish Town offers Visa and MasterCard cash advances and also has an ATM.
Taxes
There is no sales tax in the British Virgin Islands (so shop 'til you drop at the few stores). However, there is a 7% accommodation tax to guests who stay for six months or less in hotels, apartments, houses, cottages, villas and similar accommodations. In addition, visitors should be aware of the departure tax: US$20 per person leaving by air, US$7 per cruise ship passenger and US$5 per person leaving by private boat or watercraft.
Tipping
Some establishments add a service charge of 10%, but tips are generally up to you. It's customary to leave 15%, provided you are pleased with the service. A 10% service charge is usually added to hotel bills.
Telephone
There are telephone booths for long-distance calls at the Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour and Leverick Bay.
Internet Access
Two spots in Yacht Harbour offer computers with Internet access: Trintek (phone 284-495-6562) and Kaunda's KYSY Tropics (phone 284-495-5636). Little Dix Bay has wireless Internet access available for a nominal charge. Saba Rock has free high-speed wireless access for resort guests.
In Virgin Gorda, connect at the Leverick Bay Internet Cafe open 24 hours (phone 284-495-7421) and Yacht Harbour in Spanish Town.
Mail & Package Services
The post office is located just south of the Yacht Harbour. (You'll need to purchase local stamps, and your mail could arrive long after you get home.) The Craft Shop in Yacht Harbour also has mailing and package services.
Newspapers & Magazines
You can find
The New York Times and
USA Today at Little Dix Bay, but for the most part, newspapers in Virgin Gorda are limited to three local weekly publications—
The Beacon,
The Island Sun and
The Standpoint, all of which can be found in local grocery stores and at hospitality properties. The
BVI Welcome Tourist Guide, published every two months, is the best source for helpful entertainment and recreational information. You can pick up a copy at the Tourist Board office or at any hotel.
Transportation
Virgin Gorda Airport (VIJ) is a tiny strip of dirt 5 mi/8 km from Spanish Town. Most flights are to and from St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands and San Juan, Puerto Rico. You can also reach the island by ferry. Regular service connects Virgin Gorda to Road Town, Tortola, in the British Virgin Islands and to Charlotte Amalie on St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands.
For a rental car, try L & S Jeep Rental and Taxi Service (phone 284-495-5297; http://www.landsjeeprentals.com) or Mahogany Car Rentals (phone 284-495-5469 http://www.mahoganycarrentalsbvi.com). You must be 25 years old and pay the US$10 fee for a British Virgin Islands driver's license (be sure to take your driver's license from home, as well). Driving is on the left. Because of the hills and twisting roads, driving between Spanish Town and North Sound is difficult. (It's a good idea to give a little toot on the horn when you're entering a tight turn or hairpin curve to let approaching vehicles know you're there.) Driving on the relatively flat land around Spanish Town is much easier. Cruise-ship passengers and others spending only a short amount of time on the island will be better off using taxis, which are easily found in Spanish Town.
