To
Niepokalanow,
Zelazowa Wola and
Nieborow. These three sites are located southwest of the city. Any two can be covered in a short day; all three can be covered in a full day. Niepokalanow, one of the most widely visited sanctuaries in Poland, was established in 1927 as a Franciscan cloister by St. Maximilian Kolbe. During World War II, Kolbe was held in Pawiak Prison and later killed at Auschwitz. In Zelazowa Wola, the house where Frederic Chopin was born, is a small museum—it's treated as a shrine by most Poles, who revere everything about Chopin. It's a bit of a tourist trap, with large crowds packing the tiny house, but the gardens surrounding it are peaceful and a pleasant place to sit during Chopin recitals (May-September). The baroque-style Nieborow Palace was built in 1690 and enlarged over the years. An impressive work of art and a rare architectural survivor of World War I, the palace itself is a national museum.
Travel to these sites either by tour bus or by car. Head west out of Warsaw on Solidarnosci, which becomes Highway E-30. About 25 mi/40 km out, there will be signs for Niepokalanow, Paprotnia and Teresin. Turn left at the intersection (the road may not be numbered). Niepokalanow is just down the road. After your visit, return to E-30 and continue west for 5 mi/8 km and turn right at the road to Zosin, Feliksow or Nowe Mostki. Follow the road about 3 mi/5 km and you will arrive at the parking lot for Zelazowa Wola at the intersection with Route 580. Leaving Zelazowa Wola, take Route 580 in the direction of Sochaczew. Continue through Sochaczew and follow the signs for Route 705 and Nieborow, about 9 mi/15 km south of Sochaczew. To return to Warsaw, take Route 705 north to E-30, following the signs to Warszawa Centrum.
To Plock. The 1,000-year-old city of Plock was the capital of Poland briefly (1075-1138) and the capital of Mazovia through the Middle Ages. Although it was burned to the ground several times between 1261 and 1616, it survived World War II with beautiful examples of 400 years of architecture intact. The old town, castle and cathedral sit on a high bluff overlooking the Vistula, along which are a sandy beach, marinas (with riverboat rides), extensive paths and two waterfront amphitheaters where concerts are held on summer evenings. On the cobbled rynek (old town square) you'll find a beautifully restored town hall, cafes and outdoor pubs. The Mazovian Museum has an extraordinary collection of art-nouveau glass, metalwork, porcelain, furniture, fabric and antique stained-glass lamps. Contact the Plock Tourist Information Center at Stary Rynek 8 (phone 24-367-1944) for maps and other information on the city.
Polski Express buses leave Warsaw three times a day from a tiny kiosk on Jana Pawla II, just north of the central train station. The 90-minute trip ends at the PKS/PKP station in Plock. From there, take a cab to the rynek. For additional information on the area and its attractions, visit http://www.ump.pl/en.
Local Tours
A handful of companies offer city tours that usually combine some walking with rides either in vans or buses. Besides the major sites, some trips take in attractions within an hour's drive of Warsaw. Full-day excursions are also available to Gdansk, Krakow and Lublin. Most companies will pick you up from your hotel.
Day By Day
Day 1—Spend some time at the Warsaw Historical Museum learning the history of the city before heading out on the Royal Way to see the sites. Have a traditional Polish dinner at a restaurant in town.
Day 2—Visit the Jewish ghetto or go museum-hopping. Rest before heading out to Paparazzi or Piekarnia for some late-night cocktails and dancing.
Day 3—Take a day trip to Plock or Nieborow Palace, or spend the day in Lazienki Park.
Day 4—Visit one of the open-air markets or look for bargains along the shops of Plac Zamkowy.
