Washingtonians are keen on their seafood, especially crab. This casual place on Capitol Hill has an avid following and is often packed. Crab cakes and fried oysters are always popular (the local Maryland species is only available June-September). New Orleans gumbo and traditional shrimp and grits are also excellent. Open Monday-Friday for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. $$$. Most major credit cards. 400 N. Capitol St. N.W. (Metro: Union Station), Washington, D.C. Phone 202-737-0400. http://www.johnnyshalfshell.net.