Winnipeg Travel Guide

Winnipeg surprises. It's a large and cosmopolitan city rising from the vast plains of southern Manitoba, not the regional town some may expect. Winnipeg is home to the world-class Royal Winnipeg Ballet, the Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra, the Blue Bombers football team and many other treasures. Fine museums, good local transit and a stimulating, multicultural atmosphere contribute to the sophistication.

Settlers in Winnipeg have included indigenous aboriginal people, French- and English-speaking Canadians, Germans, Ukrainians, Chinese, Filipinos and others. This mix gives the town its international flavor, which manifests in a wonderful variety of markets, restaurants and cultural centers.

This sophistication is nicely balanced by the town's wide-open, Western feel, its proximity to the surrounding farmlands and by the fact that it's relatively small, as big cities go. Winnipeg is easy to get to know and yet complex enough for an interesting visit.

Must See or Do

Sights—Esplanade Riel Pedestrian Bridge; St. Boniface Basilica; The Forks; the Riel House National Historic Site.

Museums—Folk art at Oseredok Ukrainian Cultural and Educational Centre; the world's finest collection of contemporary Inuit art at the Winnipeg Art Gallery; bush planes that opened up the north at the Western Canada Aviation Museum; The Costume Museum of Canada, with its 35,000 pieces of clothing, accessories and textiles spanning 400 years.

Memorable Meals—Quebecois cuisine in a restored train station and railcar at La Vieille Gare; bison and pickerel (the local term for walleye) at Allora; a kubie, Ukranian-style hot dog, from a Broadway Street vendor.

Late Night—Line dancing at the Palomino Club Lounge; cocktails at the Palm Room; dancing at Alive.

Walks—Wandering through the lovely outdoor Leo Mol Sculpture Garden; strolling around The Forks, especially at the point where the Assiniboine and Red rivers meet; meandering through the 20-block Exchange District with its vintage buildings, galleries and boutiques; Chinatown and Little Italy.

Especially for Kids—The Manitoba Children's Museum; Assiniboine Park, where children will find the Assiniboine Park Zoo and a miniature railway; the planetarium and science center at the Manitoba Museum.

History

Winnipeg takes its name from the Cree word winnipee, or "muddy water." The area gained its first permanent colonial occupants in 1812 with the Red River Settlement, when Scottish Lord Selkirk began taking Scottish and Irish immigrants to the area where French-speaking fur traders and Metis people had been living since the late 1700s. (The Metis are those descended from unions between the Scots or French and the Native Americans.) Metis native son Louis Riel (after whom a provincial holiday in mid-February has been named) became a prominent local leader, heading a provisional government 1869-70 that eventually negotiated an act with the Canadian government to establish Manitoba as a province and to protect French-language rights. Riel, however, also led civil insurrections against a fledgling Canadian government in both southern Manitoba and neighboring Saskatchewan. Although hanged as a rebel in 1885, Riel later came to be recognized as the father of Manitoba.

Winnipeg was incorporated as a city in 1873, and the arrival of the railway in 1881 formalized the city's role as Canada's "Gateway to the West." Once called "Chicago of the North" for its early rail yards and meat-packing industry, Winnipeg today is Manitoba's largest city and its capital. It is also home to a growing biotechnology sector, with the Canadian Science Centre for Human and Animal Health (Canada's version of the Atlanta-based Centers for Disease Control) and the National Research Council Institute for Biodiagnostics. Now one of Canada's largest cities, Winnipeg covers more than 145 sq mi/375 sq km.

Potpourri

The Manitoba Legislative Buildings located in downtown Winnipeg are made of Manitoba Tyndall stone and said to possess the design of a secret Hermetic Hode (the Manitoba equivalent of da Vinci's Code.) Read the book The Hermetic Code or take the on-site tour to learn more of the intrigue.

When construction began in 1875 on Winnipeg's original City Hall, the city fathers placed a tin box of dead grasshoppers in the building's cornerstone. The building was torn down in the 1950s and replaced, but the box of bugs was lost in the demolition.

A favorite bear of children around the world, Winnie the Pooh was named after Winnipeg. Captain Harry Colebourn, who bought a bear cub in 1914 in Ontario and took it with him to England, named the little cub for his hometown. Colebourn gave the bear to the London Zoo, where writer A.A. Milne and his son Christopher encountered Winnie—and the rest is literary history.

Winnipeg is the Aboriginal capital of Canada, with 10% of its population declaring themselves indigenous people. It is therefore no wonder that The Aboriginal Peoples Television Network (APTN)—the world's first and only national aboriginal network—is headquartered in Winnipeg.

Winnipeg-born Olympic athlete Clara Hughes was the first Canadian to earn medals in both the summer and winter Olympics, while teammate and fellow Winnipegger Cindy Klassen was the first Canadian to win six Olympic medals. (Both achieved their historic status at the 2006 Winter Olympics in Turin, Italy).

The Royal Winnipeg Ballet, granted royal designation in 1953 by young Queen Elizabeth II, was the world's first "royal" ballet company and is Canada's oldest and North America's second-oldest dance company.

Winnipeg's film industry has been booming. Big-name films such as Shall We Dance?, The Assassination of Jesse James, Capote and You Kill Me were all filmed in Winnipeg's historic Exchange District. Also worth a look: local filmmaker Guy Maddin's bio-doc My Winnipeg.

Sightseeing

There's plenty of history to be found in Winnipeg, since this city is where Canada's west truly began. Replicas of the earliest settlements—wood-stake construction from those days didn't last long—can still be seen at the former center for fur-trading, Lower Fort Garry and at Fort Gibraltar, once a favorite place of the voyagers. Visitors can chat with role-playing, costumed employees to learn a bit of history.

The Exchange District presents a more modern and different kind of living history, where contemporary businesses, galleries, shops, bars and restaurants occupy a carefully preserved, late-19th-century district. The Exchange District Biz operates a historic walking tour well-worth taking.

The city's much more modern downtown is characterized by the intersection of Portage Avenue and Main Street, each with eight-lane traffic. Said to be the windiest intersection in Canada, pedestrian traffic is prohibited at Portage and Main. Underground corridors and shopping facilitate a year-round safe and climate-comfortable crossing.

Winnipeg's vast green spaces should be seen to be appreciated. Early-20th-century city fathers showed remarkable prescience when setting aside large tracts as parks for the use of future residents. Neatly manicured Kildonan Park, Assiniboine Park and the neighboring, purely wild Assiniboine Forest are all worth leisurely strolls.

Casinos

The Club Regent and McPhillips Street Station casinos are operated by the Manitoba Lotteries Commission. South Beach Casino is independently operated on the Brokenhead Ojibway Nation reserve. Dress is casual. All three casinos have an excellent restaurant and bar to keep you refreshed during your visit.

Public smoking is banned in Manitoba except on native-owned land. South Beach currently allows smoking, but will become smoke-free at the end of 2008.

Historic Sites

You might want to start your visit at The Forks or one of three historic sites of note. The Riel House National Historic Site is on the Red River in southeast Winnipeg. It is where Louis Riel, the father of Manitoba, lay in state after he was hanged for treason in Saskatchewan. Riel's grave is on the cemetery grounds of the St. Boniface Basilica, across the Red River from The Forks. St. Boniface Basilica is, in part, the oldest Roman Catholic cathedral in western Canada. The current building came into being after the original basilica burned in 1968. A modernist structure was grafted onto the original facade in 1972, resulting in a startling building. (Whether the results are pleasant is a matter of heated debate.)

In a small park across the street from The Forks, near Main and Broadway downtown, you'll find the stone gateway of Upper Fort Garry, the only remaining part of the fort that was constructed by the Hudson's Bay Company in 1821 (the gate dates to 1835).

Downtown you'll find the Legislative Building (look for the Golden Boy statue on top of the dome), the Winnipeg Commodity Exchange (one of the largest grain exchanges in the world) and the city's MTS Centre, its sports and concert arena.

Neighborhoods & Districts

Winnipeg's Exchange District is 20 downtown blocks of lovingly restored 19th-century buildings that now house antiques shops, restaurants, nightclubs, theaters, galleries and boutiques. This is the location of Winnipeg's City Hall and Old Market Square, as well as the heart of Winnipeg's arts community: The ballet and the symphony perform at Centennial Concert Hall, and several theaters operate in the area, including the Manitoba Theatre Centre, MTC Warehouse Theatre and Pantages Playhouse Theatre.

Cross the Provencher Bridge by vehicle or along the pedestrian walkway (the Esplanade Riel) that spans the Red River north of The Forks to reach St. Boniface, the largest French Canadian community in Canada outside of Quebec. Stroll along Provencher Boulevard and sample the restaurants and shops that reflect the vibrant local francophone culture. Also, be sure to visit the Centre Culturel Franco-Manitobain, which has art exhibits, craft sales, performances and food.

North of downtown (near the Exchange District) is the city's tiny Chinatown, with Asian gift shops, grocery stores and dim sum restaurants. In sharp contrast to the cramped quarters of many big-city Chinatowns, this one has an open feel: Wide streets and low buildings characterize the little neighborhood. The Chinese Cultural Centre—note the two huge marble lions—has a small, pleasant ornamental garden.

In the city's prosperous south end, Corydon Avenue is home to Little Italy's restaurants, gelati shops, and avant-garde furniture and clothing-design boutiques. Chic Winnipeggers head to the Corydon strip for summer-evening gelati and walkabouts, or to the Osborne Village, just across the bridge from the Legislative Building, to visit funky pottery shops and a thriving jumble of ethnic restaurants. A 10-minute drive from both Osborne and Corydon, another spot to see and be seen is Academy Road with its upscale boutiques and restaurants.

Recreation

If cycling, walking and skateboarding appeal, Winnipeg has the paths and trails, as well as the new Plaza at The Forks Skateboard Park—considered Canada's best such urban park. At almost 40,000 sq ft/12,400 sq m, it is also Canada's biggest. Located at The Forks Market and National Historic Site area, its central plaza covers 30,000 sq ft/9,300 sq m with ramps, stairs, guardrails and ledges, and the adjacent 8,500-sq-ft/2,635-sq-m bowl complex incorporates sharply angled slopes and curves that challenge even the pros.

Also fun are the water taxis that run from The Forks up and down the river. Check at The Forks info booth to see if they're running, as water levels vary greatly from year to year and occasionally prohibit their operation. Often the river level is so high in spring and early summer that you cannot use the walking trails and water taxis.

Golf

Winnipeg boasts more than four dozen golf courses within the city limits and even more within a one- or two-hour drive outside the city, though some are private. Top public courses can require up to seven days' advance tee-time booking.

Phone 204-986-2032 or visit http://winnipeg.ca/ppd/golf.stm for a list of city-run public courses.

Hiking & Walking

The city's walking and cycling trails are serene and not too strenuous. Most are located in Assiniboine and Kildonan parks, and in Assiniboine Forest. The city's signature Riverwalk runs along the Red River through the city center, stretching north and south of The Forks.

Skiing

In winter, The Forks' skating rink opens (rentals are not available on-site), and the Red River becomes one long skating rink/cross-country ski trail. Nordic skiers will want to try the Windsor Park Nordic Centre, the winter training headquarters for Manitoba's Nordic skiers. It's the longest night-lit set of cross-country trails (two trails total more than 5 mi/8 km) in Canada.

Nightlife

The city's primary nightlife areas are in Osborne Village, along a section of Portage Avenue just west of the city center, and around the busy East Exchange District, where many clubbing hot spots reside in historic old buildings. Some of the names may change frequently, but they remain clubs of one sort or another, and there are plenty of after-hours bars and restaurants to sustain party-hearty sorts into the wee hours of the morning.

For more rough-and-tumble bar-hopping, some watering-hole bars in local hotel chains are not tricked out for tourists and can get rowdy. They can be recognized by the nicknames locals use for them: A bar with an informal moniker like "the Jimmy" or "the Pemby" usually means a neighborhood pub frequented by testosterone-laden young males out to prove their masculinity by picking a fight or two. Be mindful that there have been several occurrences of violence at nightclubs in The Exchange District.

More sedate but equally adrenalin-charged forms of entertainment can be found at the city's two casinos, Club Regent and McPhillips Street, where lounge shows range from Abba or Elvis tribute singers to touring jazz combos.

Performing Arts

Winnipeg's known nationally as the Canadian city that most strongly supports its arts and culture, as evidenced by the fact that, on average, Winnipeggers spend more than any other Canadians on tickets for their favorite performing arts groups. The flagship cultural organizations in turn are fueled by smaller community-theater, dance and music groups ranging from the Winnipeg Jewish Theatre to the Manitoba Chamber Orchestra. The performing-arts scene is not as vibrant during the balmy summer months, however, as many locals abandon the city for vacations at lakeside cottages and campsites. Things pick up again October-May, when the audience is back home and thirsting for art.

Spectator Sports

Fiercely supportive of their sports teams, Winnipeggers turn out in droves to watch their baseball team, the Goldeyes, at its home ballpark, Canwest Global Park near The Forks. The MTS Centre, the indoor arena downtown that houses the AAA Manitoba Moose hockey team, is locally dubbed the Phone Booth (after sponsor Manitoba Telecom Services). The center seats 15,000 comfortably and is said to be one of the busiest such venues in the country, hosting events that range from big truck pulls to major rock concerts.

Winnipeg's CFL Blue Bomber team may perform sporadically, but fans in this city are "True Blue" loyal, and a home game there can be one noisy event if the team's losing. When it's Winnipeg's turn to host the annual Grey Cup (the national football championship), temporary seats are added to top the stadium's 22,000-seat capacity to 40,000—and, to the city's pride, every seat is filled. A new stadium is in the works for the Bombers and likely to be in place for the 2009 football season.

College-level teams at the University of Manitoba and University of Winnipeg flesh out local spectator sports with hockey, football, soccer and volleyball teams. (The University of Winnipeg routinely turns out Olympic-level female volleyball players.) The University of Manitoba Bisons have been college football champions and won the Vanier Cup in 2007.

Shopping

Look for leather products, antiques, and arts and crafts (especially Inuit soapstone carvings and other Native American works). Shoppers will want to browse through the Bay Department Store, Winnipeg Square and Portage Place, all in downtown Winnipeg.

The city's largest malls are Polo Park and the St. Vital Centre. Polo Park is located at 1485 Portage Ave., just 10 minutes west of downtown (phone 204-784-2500, http://www.polopark.ca). St. Vital Centre is located at the intersection of Bishop Grandin Boulevard and St. Mary's Road in the south Winnipeg suburb of St. Vital (phone 204-257-5646, http://www.stvitalcentre.com).

A series of big-box and bargain outlets is located along busy Kenaston Boulevard in the southwest suburbs. A few small, distinctive shops are clustered around Main Street and Selkirk Avenue in the Mosaic District, a funky, multiethnic neighborhood. Winnipeg's hottest shopping spots include the Exchange District, The Forks Market, Academy Road and Corydon Avenue.

Winnipeg also has a well-established history in the garment trade. Designers such as Peter Nygard built his clothing empire there. His designs are sold everywhere in the city under various labels. Phone 204-982-9320. http://www.nygard.com.

Galleries

Winnipeg values its culture and fine art. You will find numerous galleries peppered throughout the city, each with its own style and specialty.

Day Trips

To Grand Beach to see Grand Beach Provincial Park, an expanse of powdery, white-sand dunes along Lake Winnipeg. The elevated wooden boardwalk there is a locally famous stroll for young lovers, and the surrounding provincial park offers secluded hiking trails and is a nesting area for endangered piping plovers. If you're a gambler, stop in at the South Beach Casino on your way there or back. It has a great seafood buffet.

To St. Andrews to the National Historic Site of Lower Fort Garry, North America's only remaining fur-trade-era stone fort, located some 20 mi/33 km north of Winnipeg. In summer, Parks Canada employees bring historic characters to life there. The Selkirk Marine Museum, just 10 mi/15 km farther north on the same highway, has several restored historic steamboats and fishing boats that can be explored inside and out. A short drive west of Selkirk is Oak Hammock Marsh, a great birding destination for nature lovers, with optional paddling trips available through the wetland area. The interpretation center offers seasonal programming, from birdhouse-building in summer to winter bird-feeding techniques.

To Portage la Prairie, an hour's drive west of Winnipeg and just north of the TransCanada Highway. Visitors will find the Fort la Reine Museum and Pioneer Village, the site of explorer Pierre Gaultier de la Verendrye's fort, with pioneer and Native American artifacts and antique railcars. There are also small deer and a nice park in the city's Island Park.

To Gimli, an hour northwest of Winnipeg. This beach-resort village bustles as a popular getaway, with a thriving cottage community and a pebbly beach that's a popular summer-weekend spot for Winnipeggers. The marina is a favorite hangout for weekend anglers, and the town's main street offers numerous tearooms and shops, including Manitoba's oldest family-owned retail store still in existence, Tergeson's. In early August, Gimli hosts Manitoba's Icelandic Festival (Islendingadagurinn). Just south of Gimli is Winnipeg Beach, another resort community with a historic lakeside boardwalk to stroll along, a clean swimming beach and some fun shops and cafes.

Local Tours

There are several companies that run unique tours to help you really get a feel for what is special about Winnipeg.

Cruises aboard the Paddlewheel Queen are relaxing and provide some nice views of the Winnipeg skyline. The boat operates May-October and offers day, evening, dinner and dance cruises. It leaves from a dock near The Forks.

Day By Day

We suggest a minimum of three nights in Winnipeg. The following itinerary assumes you're visiting during the summer, when being outdoors is generally pleasant rather than bitterly cold.

Day 1—See the Legislative Building and then stroll through the Osborne Village for a little souvenir-hunting. Afterward, head back across the river and east down Broadway Avenue. On a weekday, grab a Ukrainian-style kubie hot dog from a Broadway Street vendor for lunch or, if you have a bigger appetite, have lunch at The Forks. Next, enjoy more shopping and a look at The Forks. Spend the remainder of the afternoon at the Winnipeg Art Gallery. In the evening, take a dinner cruise on the river, and/or do a bit of gambling at one of the city's casinos. If you time your visit right, enjoy one of Winnipeg's many wonderful festivals.

Day 2—After spending the morning at the Manitoba Museum, break for lunch in nearby Chinatown or in one of the comfortable restaurants surrounding the Old Market Square. Browse for antiques or gallery-hop in the Exchange District. Tour the nearby Ukrainian Cultural Centre, then walk or ride along the city's new Waterfront Drive past the Canwest Global Park. Head across the river to St. Boniface, where you can end your day with a long, leisurely dinner at one of St. Boniface's French Canadian restaurants. If you love a good old-fashioned baseball game, we recommend checking out a Winnipeg Goldeyes game, if they are playing at home. If so, grab a bite at a French cafe instead of a long dinner, then hop back across the river to the ballpark for the game.

Day 3—Venture to southeast Winnipeg to tour the Royal Canadian Mint in the morning. Stop along the Corydon Avenue strip for a hearty Italian lunch, then burn off the calories with a walk along the strip and Academy Road. Spend the rest of the afternoon exploring Assiniboine Park and the zoo, the Pavilion Gallery and, if there's still time, the Leo Mol Garden. Choose an Osborne Village spot for dinner, then spend your evening at one of Rainbow Stage's outdoor stage productions, a summer symphony concert or a ballet performance at Assinboine Park's Lyric Theatre.

Dining Overview

Winnipeg claims to have the most restaurants in Canada on a per-capita basis, so newcomers to Manitoba and Winnipeg will be pleasantly surprised by the sheer number of restaurants and the wide variety of ethnic cuisines available. More than 40 nationalities are represented in Winnipeg's various restaurants, including Chinese, Italian, Greek, Polish, Japanese, Mexican, Caribbean, Ethiopian, East Indian and Thai.

One of the best places to shop for gourmet food items is The Forks Market. We found a big variety of sophisticated and exotic delicacies there. If you're looking for organic, gluten-free or vegan options, try the Organza Natural and Organic Market located next to the Dandelion Eatery at 230 Osborne St,, Winnipeg's "Crazy Corner" (where Pembina Highway, Osborne Street and Corydon Avenue converge). Phone 204-453-6266 or visit http://organzamarket.com.

For a choice of several good international restaurants and cutting-edge eateries, try Osborne Street in Osborne Village, Corydon Avenue's Little Italy, Academy Road or the eastern Exchange District.

Here is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, excluding taxes, drinks and tip: $ = less than Can$15; $$ = Can$15-$30; $$$ = Can$31-$40; $$$$ = more than Can$40.

Coffeehouses

Winnipeg has many chain coffee shops, the most popular of which are the Tim Horton's that you'll find in every neighborhood throughout the city. Starbucks is also popular. Independent coffeehouses are far less common, but they do exist.

Personal Safety

Winnipeg is a generally safe city for tourists. Suburban neighborhoods and parks are fine to stroll in, and pedestrians line busy streets in shopping, cultural and theater districts. Offenses involving handguns and other violent crimes including assaults and homicides have increased somewhat in recent years because of an increased presence of gangs and drug trafficking.

Auto theft has been a persistent problem, but authorities have cracked down on offenders and occurrences are dropping. Panhandlers occasionally appear in the downtown area, but local bylaws do not permit them to actively solicit passersby.

Teams of local civilian Downtown Watch ambassadors wearing bright red shirts routinely walk the streets and can be called upon for directions or other help. City police maintain community offices and high-visibility foot patrols and cycle police in business and entertainment districts. Pickpockets are rare, and tourists are not generally targeted by thieves.

Dial 911 in case of emergency or for police, ambulances or the fire department.

Health

In the event of emergency, police, ambulances or the fire department will respond quickly to 911 calls. For urgent medical care, all hospitals have emergency wards. The largest are at the city's two teaching hospitals: the Health Sciences Centre downtown and the St. Boniface Hospital in the city's southwest quadrant.

Health Sciences Centre, 820 Sherbrook St. Phone 204-774-6511.

St. Boniface General Hospital, 409 Tache Ave. Phone 204-223-8563.

Misericordia Urgent Care Centre, 99 Cornish Ave. Phone 204-774-6581.

The Misericordia Urgent Care Centre in the city's center accepts walk-ins, and there are dozens of smaller walk-in clinics around the city (check the local telephone directory for one near you). There are also several smaller hospitals scattered around the city, including the Concordia (East Winnipeg), Grace (West Winnipeg), Seven Oaks (North Winnipeg) and Victoria (South Winnipeg).

Full information on care and facilities is available from the Winnipeg Regional Health Authority, the regulatory body that coordinates all public health care in the city. Phone 204-926-7000. http://www.wrha.mb.ca. The Health Links line is also available to ask questions about various health concerns. Toll-free 888-315-9257 or 204-788-8200.

Nonresidents are not covered by Canada's universal medical care system—it's wise to carry travelers' medical insurance just in case, and you should have your insurance information and documentation on hand.

If visiting in deep winter, be aware that frostbite is always a danger: Avoid exposing bare skin for more than a minute or two in the coldest temperatures (-20 F/-29 C or lower). Summers can bring heavy, periodic infestations of mosquitoes, some of which carry West Nile virus or, much more rarely, Western equine encephalitis. Fortunately, these tiny pests are the only problematic wildlife in the area. Carry and use mosquito repellent containing deet.

Disabled Advisory

Disabled travelers should find public areas in Winnipeg fully wheelchair-accessible, as it is required under Manitoba law. All public parking lots reserve premium spaces for disabled parking; public restrooms provide wheelchair-friendly stalls; and roadway curb-cuts are routine at intersections. For detailed information, contact the Society for Manitobans with Disabilities, 1111 Winnipeg Ave., Winnipeg. Phone 204-975-3257, toll-free 800-836-5551. http://www.smd.mb.ca.

Dos & Don'ts

Don't complain about the winter weather. Winnipeg's reputation for frigid conditions is sorely undeserved; other prairie cities (both north and south of the border) endure seasonal cold just as severe, if not more so.

Do appreciate the number of sunny days you'll see while in Winnipeg, and the wonders of each distinct season.

Do try local cuisine when you spot it on a menu: delicate, white-fleshed pickerel (called walleye in the U.S.), nutty-flavored wild rice, or lean and healthy bison.

Do see a Winnipeg Goldeye home baseball game and enjoy the sport as it was meant to be played—small-town-style with sportsmanlike good fun and great ballpark food to boot.

Don't miss the city's Christmas-lights displays if you're there for the holidays. The downtown sparkles in what local tourism officials like to call Canada's Christmas Capital, and there are special drive-through displays mounted in many neighborhoods, most notably Canad Inns Winter Wonderland at Red River Exhibition Park. The Festival of Trees and Lights at Assiniboine Park Conservatory is also worth a look.

Don't be afraid to look people in the eye and say hello to strangers while in Winnipeg. People are friendly there.

Hotel Overview

Visitors to Winnipeg will find accommodations ranging from budget motels to bed-and-breakfasts to first-class hotels. Several national hotel and motel chains are represented there, and recent airport-area construction has brought in a handful of new hotels.

Properties of special interest include the splendidly restored Fort Garry Hotel, a historic hotel that resembles a French chateau, and the renovated Ramada Marlborough Hotel, which was built in the 1910s—be sure to check out Churchill's restaurant with its vaulted ceilings, stained-glass windows and wooden gargoyles along the walls. The movie Shall We Dance? was filmed in the hotel's Skyview Ballroom.

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S.

Beginning 1 June 2009, passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.

Population: 641,483.

Predominant Religions: Protestant and Catholic.

Time Zone: 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-6 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November.

Voltage Requirements: 120 volts AC.

Currency Exchange

The Canadian dollar is Manitoba's official currency, but U.S. dollars are widely accepted, with an exchange-rate close to par. Smaller establishments may become flustered if asked to calculate exchange, so carry a supply of colorful Canadian bills. Can$1 and Can$2 bills have been replaced by coins, commonly called the loonie and the toonie (the former nickname deriving from the loon on the Can$1 coin, the latter because it rhymes with the former).

ATMs are widely available. Banks operate Monday-Saturday during standard business hours. Credit cards or cash are the easiest way to handle transactions. Debit cards are in increasingly common use as well.

Taxes

Manitoba collects a federal Goods and Services Tax (GST) of 5% on all transactions except for grocery-store food purchases, and a universal 7% provincial retail-sales tax (PST). Visitors may be eligible for a rebate of the federal tax. For details, contact the Canada Customs and Revenue Agency. Phone toll-free 800-668-4748 or visit http://www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca/visitors.

The province does not charge a separate hotel tax.

Tipping

Tippers will find 15% appropriate for good service, with a slightly higher amount (up to 20%) suggested for excellent care. Hotel porters will appreciate Can$2 per piece of luggage handled for a guest.

Weather

Winnipeg winters are for the hardy—it's sunny but cold (-4 F to 18 F/-20 C to -8 C), windy and snowy. Travelers who don't find that climate invigorating might prefer to visit in late spring or summer, when warm to hot days and cool nights are the rule. Expect May temperatures of 41 F-64 F/5 C-18 C, with June warming up some 10 degrees F/5 degrees C. There are more rainy days May-July than later in the summer. July is the hottest month (averaging 63 F-90 F/15 C-30 C), with August slightly cooler. Most attractions are open throughout the year.

Weather Forecast

Weather forecast not available at this time.

What to Wear

Summer leisure travelers will want light, airy, layered clothing for daytime, and light-colored, long-sleeved shirts and pants for evening, when mosquitoes can be fierce. Sunscreen is standard summer procedure. Summer wear for business travelers is business casual, with short sleeves or golf shirts common and ties a rarity. Light jackets may be carried for daytime meetings or for evening wear, when temperatures can cool considerably.

Winter means layering for both leisure and business: heavy winter coats, mittens or gloves, sturdy headgear and snowboots to wear over whatever is worn indoors. Because Winnipeg uses sand and salt to battle icy streets in winter, boots should be weather-protected by commercial boot spray, and fine suede footgear avoided entirely.

Telephone

For local directory assistance, dial 411. Local calls require only the use of the local seven-digit number, and calls outside the city must be made by dialing 1, then the area code. Most toll-free lines are identifiable as 800, 866, 877 or 888 numbers.

To dial direct overseas, dial 011, then the country code, the routing code and finally the number you are calling. For operator-assisted calling, dial 0. If you want to know how much the call will cost, tell the operator "time and charges" before you place the call.

Cell-phone coverage is not a problem in any part of Winnipeg or areas within an hour of the city. Locations farther from the city may have spotty, and occasionally no coverage. The prevalent cellular-service provider is Manitoba Telecom Services (MTS). Visit http://www.mts.ca for details and a map showing areas of coverage.

Internet Access

Wireless Internet access is becoming common in Winnipeg. MTS is the province's primary provider. Visit http://www.mts.ca/WifiMap for a complete listing of places you can get service.

Find service at Bar Italia at 737 Corydon Ave. (phone 204-452-1929), Java-Bytes Techno Emporium at 1130 Nairn Ave. (phone 204-668-1002, http://www.java-bytes.net) and at Twist Cafe at 392 Graham Ave. (phone 204-668-9478).

Salisbury Houses around the city offer wireless access for Can$1.50 per hour (credit cards can be billed), and a recent city-sparked project has opened up free wireless hot spots around the downtown area: the University of Winnipeg; the International Centre for refugees and immigrants at Central Park; Red River College's Princess Street campus; the Point Douglas neighborhood; and at the Aboriginal Centre.

The city's public library branches offer free Internet access, and most major hotels and dozens of restaurants and cafes offer paid Internet access.

Newspapers & Magazines

The Winnipeg Free Press and the Winnipeg Sun are the city's major dailies. Both run entertainment listings every Thursday, and more comprehensive information may be found in the free-distribution, weekly Uptown magazine, which is available at most retail areas. Where magazine, published bi-monthly, is useful and available at most hotels, some restaurants and the Winnipeg airport.

The Winnipeg Free Press is the province's major daily newspaper and offers well-balanced news reporting. The paper includes entertainment and events listings. http://www.winnipegfreepress.com.

The Winnipeg Sun is a tabloid-style daily newspaper. http://www.winnipegsun.com.

Transportation

James A. Richardson International Airport (YWG) is 4 mi/6.5 km west of the city center. Limousines, taxis and city buses provide transportation to and from downtown. Major rental car agencies have offices at the airport. The entry area can be occasionally chaotic for incoming traffic, though the exit area and traffic flows are usually fine. Phone 204-987-9400. http://www.waa.ca.

VIA Rail currently stops at Winnipeg three times a week, and trains also run north to Churchill year-round. Winnipeg's train station, which also houses a railway museum, is located at Broadway and Main, just a few steps away from The Forks and the Fort Garry Hotel.

The east-west highway through the city is the TransCanada (Highway 1). Highway 1 becomes Fermor Avenue when arriving from the east and Portage Avenue when arriving from the west. Highway 75 heads south to the border with the U.S. where it becomes Interstate 29.

Winnipeg Transit provides bus service throughout the city. For more information, visit http://www.winnipegtransit.com. Attractions within Winnipeg can be reached by bus or taxi (and often on foot, if you're feeling energetic). Taxis can only be summoned by telephone or at a few designated cabstands located at major hotels. Bus fare is Can$2.25 per adult (exact change required), but Downtown Flyer buses, which circulate frequently on designated routes, are free. In summer, water taxis based at The Forks run up and down the river and are an inexpensive (Can$3 per person) way to tour downtown by water. If you're planning on making any day trips, however, you'll need to rent a car.

For More Information

Destination Winnipeg, 279 Portage Ave., Winnipeg, MB R3B 2B4. Phone 204-943-1970. Toll-free 800-665-0204. Fax 204-942-4043. http://www.destinationwinnipeg.ca.

Calendar

Winnipeg offers visitors a number of cultural and sporting pursuits. It boasts a highly regarded ballet, some fantastic museums, and hockey and football teams.

For detailed information about happenings in Winnipeg, visit the city's official Web site at http://www.winnipeg.ca/interhom. For even more information about events in Winnipeg, visit http://www.tourism.winnipeg.mb.ca. You can also contact Destination Winnipeg. Phone 204-943-1970. Toll-free 800-665-0204. http://www.destinationwinnipeg.ca.

To call any of the numbers listed in this calendar from outside the U.S. or Canada, you must first dial your country's international access code, followed by Canada's country code, 1.

Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.

January, 2009

1 Jan—New Year's Day Public holiday.

Throughout January—Dance The Royal Winnipeg Ballet performs several classic ballets each season at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For information, call 204-956-0183, or toll-free 800-667-4792. For tickets, call Ticketmaster at 204-253-2787. http://www.rwb.org. Continues through late April

Throughout January—Opera The Manitoba Opera presents a season of performances. Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-942-7479. http://www.manitobaopera.mb.ca. Continues through late April

Throughout January—Performance The Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra performs a season of concerts at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-949-3950. http://www.wso.mb.ca.
Continues through mid May

February, 2009

Mid February—Centara Corporation International New Music Festival Explore the evolution of sound during this festival, which stretches the accepted boundaries of classical music. Composers channel influences such as Jimi Hendrix and delve into musical genres such as rap and techno to come up with new works. Also discussions and competitions. Hosted by the Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra. For more information, call 204-949-3999. http://www.wso.mb.ca.

13-22 Feb—Festival du Voyageur A huge, award-winning winter festival celebrating Winnipeg's fur-trading heritage. A snow-sculpting symposium and dogsledding play prominent roles. Voyageur Park and other venues. For more information, call 204-237-7692. http://www.festivalvoyageur.mb.ca.

21 Feb—Winnipeg Scottish Festival A traditional Scottish festival with Highland games, bagpiping, a ceilidh and other cultural activities. Winnipeg Convention Centre, 375 York Ave. For more information, call 204-489-4485. http://www.winnipegscottishfestival.org/index2.html.

Late February—NSI FilmExchange Canadian Film Festival This festival's focus is on established and emerging Canadian artists in film, television and new media. The festival is presented by the National Screen Institute. For more information, call 800-952-9307. http://www.nsi-canada.ca. Continues through early March

Throughout February—Dance The Royal Winnipeg Ballet performs several classic ballets each season at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For information, call 204-956-0183, or toll-free 800-667-4792. For tickets, call Ticketmaster at 204-253-2787. http://www.rwb.org. Continues through late April

Throughout February—Opera The Manitoba Opera presents a season of performances. Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-942-7479. http://www.manitobaopera.mb.ca. Continues through late April

Throughout February—Performance The Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra performs a season of concerts at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-949-3950. http://www.wso.mb.ca.
Continues through mid May

March, 2009

Early March—NSI FilmExchange Canadian Film Festival This festival's focus is on established and emerging Canadian artists in film, television and new media. The festival is presented by the National Screen Institute. For more information, call 800-952-9307. http://www.nsi-canada.ca. Concludes early March

Throughout March—Opera The Manitoba Opera presents a season of performances. Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-942-7479. http://www.manitobaopera.mb.ca. Continues through late April

Throughout March—Dance The Royal Winnipeg Ballet performs several classic ballets each season at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For information, call 204-956-0183, or toll-free 800-667-4792. For tickets, call Ticketmaster at 204-253-2787. http://www.rwb.org. Continues through late April

Throughout March—Performance The Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra performs a season of concerts at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-949-3950. http://www.wso.mb.ca.
Continues through mid May

April, 2009

Mid April—Winnipeg Comedy Festival Pros and amateurs face the firing squad during a series of stand-up and troupe performances throughout Winnipeg. For information, call 204-284-9477. For tickets, call Ticketmaster at 204-780-3333. http://www.winnipegcomedyfestival.com.

10 Apr—Good Friday Public holiday.

Throughout April—Performance The Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra performs a season of concerts at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-949-3950. http://www.wso.mb.ca.
Continues through mid May

Throughout April—Dance The Royal Winnipeg Ballet performs several classic ballets each season at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For information, call 204-956-0183, or toll-free 800-667-4792. For tickets, call Ticketmaster at 204-253-2787. http://www.rwb.org. Concludes late April

Throughout April—Opera The Manitoba Opera presents a season of performances. Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-942-7479. http://www.manitobaopera.mb.ca. Concludes late April

May, 2009

Early-Mid May—Performance The Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra performs a season of concerts at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-949-3950. http://www.wso.mb.ca.
Concludes mid May

Mid-Late May—Winnipeg Goldeyes The Winnipeg Goldeyes play regular-season home baseball games at CanWest Global Park, 1 Portage Ave. E. For more information, call 204-982-2273. http://www.goldeyes.com. Continues through early September

18 May—Victoria Day Public holiday.

June, 2009

Mid June—Jazz Winnipeg Festival Local and international musicians perform free and ticketed concerts. Various downtown venues. For more information, call 204-989-4656. http://www.jazzwinnipeg.com.

Mid-Late June—Winnipeg Blue Bombers Part of the Canadian Football League, the Winnipeg Blue Bombers play regular-season home games at Canad Inns Stadium, 1465 Maroons Road. For more information, call 204-784-2583, or toll-free 888-266-2377. http://www.bluebombers.com. Continues through mid October

4-7 Jun—Winnipeg International Children's Festival This event provides entertainment and education for kids of all ages. The Forks (junction of the Red and Assiniboine rivers). For more information, call 204-958-4733, or toll-free 800-527-1515. http://www.kidsfest.ca.

24 Jun—St. John Baptiste Day Public holiday.

Throughout June—Winnipeg Goldeyes The Winnipeg Goldeyes play regular-season home baseball games at CanWest Global Park, 1 Portage Ave. E. For more information, call 204-982-2273. http://www.goldeyes.com. Continues through early September

July, 2009

1 Jul—Canada Day Public holiday.

9-12 Jul—Winnipeg Folk Festival This family-friendly festival hosts some 40,000 visitors every year and offers folk and world music along with lots of food and craft booths. The Folk Festival takes place in Birds Hill Provincial Park, a beautiful park just a few minutes northeast of the city on Highway 59 North, with an excellent campground, man-made lake and cycling paths. For information, call 204-231-0096. http://www.winnipegfolkfestival.ca.

15-26 Jul—Winnipeg Fringe Theatre Festival This theater festival features local and international companies and encourages interaction between performers and their audience. More than 60,000 people attend more than 1,000 performances. The final bash, Fringestock, is an outrageous homage to the Summer of Love. Various venues. For more information, call 204-956-1340. http://www.winnipegfringe.com.

Throughout July—Winnipeg Goldeyes The Winnipeg Goldeyes play regular-season home baseball games at CanWest Global Park, 1 Portage Ave. E. For more information, call 204-982-2273. http://www.goldeyes.com. Continues through early September

Throughout July—Winnipeg Blue Bombers Part of the Canadian Football League, the Winnipeg Blue Bombers play regular-season home games at Canad Inns Stadium, 1465 Maroons Road. For more information, call 204-784-2583, or toll-free 888-266-2377. http://www.bluebombers.com. Continues through mid October

August, 2009

Early August—Folklorama The tastes, sights, sounds and smells of other cultures are brought to life in this highly regarded festival. Drink a stein of beer in the Germany pavilion or learn to tango in the Argentina tent. Various venues. For more information, call 204-982-6210. Toll-free 800-665-0234. http://www.folklorama.ca.

Throughout August—Winnipeg Goldeyes The Winnipeg Goldeyes play regular-season home baseball games at CanWest Global Park, 1 Portage Ave. E. For more information, call 204-982-2273. http://www.goldeyes.com. Continues through early September

Throughout August—Winnipeg Blue Bombers Part of the Canadian Football League, the Winnipeg Blue Bombers play regular-season home games at Canad Inns Stadium, 1465 Maroons Road. For more information, call 204-784-2583, or toll-free 888-266-2377. http://www.bluebombers.com. Continues through mid October

September, 2009

Early September—Winnipeg Goldeyes The Winnipeg Goldeyes play regular-season home baseball games at CanWest Global Park, 1 Portage Ave. E. For more information, call 204-982-2273. http://www.goldeyes.com. Concludes early September

Early-Late September—Performance The Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra performs a season of concerts at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-949-3950. http://www.wso.mb.ca.
Continues through mid May 2010

7 Sep—Labor Day Public holiday.

Throughout September—Winnipeg Blue Bombers Part of the Canadian Football League, the Winnipeg Blue Bombers play regular-season home games at Canad Inns Stadium, 1465 Maroons Road. For more information, call 204-784-2583, or toll-free 888-266-2377. http://www.bluebombers.com. Continues through mid October

October, 2009

Early-Mid October—Winnipeg Blue Bombers Part of the Canadian Football League, the Winnipeg Blue Bombers play regular-season home games at Canad Inns Stadium, 1465 Maroons Road. For more information, call 204-784-2583, or toll-free 888-266-2377. http://www.bluebombers.com. Concludes mid October

Mid-Late October—Dance The Royal Winnipeg Ballet performs several classic ballets each season at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For information, call 204-956-0183, or toll-free 800-667-4792. For tickets, call Ticketmaster at 204-253-2787. http://www.rwb.org. Continues through late April 2010

12 Oct—Thanksgiving Day Public holiday.

Late October—Opera The Manitoba Opera presents a season of performances. Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-942-7479. http://www.manitobaopera.mb.ca. Continues through late April 2010

Throughout October—Performance The Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra performs a season of concerts at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-949-3950. http://www.wso.mb.ca.
Continues through mid May 2010

November, 2009

Early November—Manito Ahbee Festival This Aboriginal celebration features music, pow wows, arts and crafts. Call toll-free 866-449-0251 or 204-956-1859. http://www.manitoahbee.com.

Throughout November—Performance The Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra performs a season of concerts at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-949-3950. http://www.wso.mb.ca.
Continues through mid May 2010

Throughout November—Dance The Royal Winnipeg Ballet performs several classic ballets each season at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For information, call 204-956-0183, or toll-free 800-667-4792. For tickets, call Ticketmaster at 204-253-2787. http://www.rwb.org. Continues through late April 2010

Throughout November—Opera The Manitoba Opera presents a season of performances. Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-942-7479. http://www.manitobaopera.mb.ca. Continues through late April 2010

December, 2009

25 Dec—Christmas Day Public holiday.

26 Dec—Boxing Day Public holiday.

Throughout December—Dance The Royal Winnipeg Ballet performs several classic ballets each season at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For information, call 204-956-0183, or toll-free 800-667-4792. For tickets, call Ticketmaster at 204-253-2787. http://www.rwb.org. Continues through late April 2010

Throughout December—Opera The Manitoba Opera presents a season of performances. Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-942-7479. http://www.manitobaopera.mb.ca. Continues through late April 2010

Throughout December—Performance The Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra performs a season of concerts at Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St. For more information, call 204-949-3950. http://www.wso.mb.ca.
Continues through mid May 2010