
This property, abutting one of Morocco's most exclusive 18-hole golf courses (the king's favorite), in an isolated location 15 minutes southeast of the medina, is the most exclusive hotel to open in Africa in quite a while (with the exception of La Mamounia's recent renovation). Though it fails to match the sophisticated intimacy of its Asian brethren, it is undeniably grand and luxurious—a fanciful Arabian Nights fantasy with distinct Moroccan flavor. A formidable stone and stucco barricade provides a secure setting at this former olive orchard, where the daily tariff often exceeds the annual income of the average working-class Moroccan. The hotel's striking minimalist decor is grounded with the use of red adobe and surrounded by an impeccably manicured garden.
Moorish "keyhole" arches, used abundantly, are layered in symmetrical fashion, unfolding like intricate origami patterns as guests wander about the grounds. Nothing welcomes guests more comfortably than a glass of steaming mint tea offered by a helpful, welcoming staff (proud of its heritage and this lovely property). A vast reflection pool sits at the center of the hotel, with the public areas and accommodations pinned to its perimeter. In Aman fashion, sit-down registration is at a sleek desk in the lobby. Just beyond, paired immense green marble fountains—quarried and carved in Ouarzazate—gurgle under open atria, where fresh seasonal blossoms infuse the air with a soothing aroma. In winter, a pair of fireplaces crackles in the breezy sitting area to provoke a homey atmosphere. This opulent tribute to Arabic design is also a study in geometry:
Everything here seems to have its diametric opposite.
The lounge's curving black marble bar is crafted, incredibly, from just two pieces of carved marble. Here, too, a pair of fireplaces warms the space in winter. The main restaurant, which serves all meals, is a narrow, rather plain-looking room. Interest lies in the ancient saddles hung on the walls, and thuya-wood tables that are covered with tablecloths for dinner. The fine international menu features global delicacies, such as succulent foie gras and tandoori chicken, and the flexible chef is always open to suggestions. Eighty alabaster pillars, a spectacular cedar screen, a scalloped onyx fountain and a skylight that opens in summer mark the formal and expensive Moroccan room. Guests here dine to the strains of traditional musicians at work. The well-trained chef prepares Moroccan as well as Thai dishes.
There is a dual-level library with locally pertinent reading material, up-to-the-minute international magazines and periodicals, a crackling fireplace and a computer with Internet access (free to all guests). Artists flock to the front desk to acquire the complimentary watercolor or paint supplies supplied for those wishing to express their creativity. Souvenir hunters will find two exclusive shops with made-for-Aman merchandise: locally crafted jewelry, exquisite silk jellabas and even sunscreen.
The
heated pool is a surprisingly simple affair, though well-furnished and watched over by an eagle-eye attendant at the ready with towels, mineral water and aloe for the fair-skinned. Lounge chairs surround the tranquil water, but become occupied quickly. A small, well-stocked health center includes an open-air gym, whirlpools, hammams, and a variety of herbal cures and beauty treatments in the expansive and exotic spa. Guests require staff assistance to activate the whirlpool's jets and the hammam's steam, and the locker facilities are small. Two hard courts for tennis are lighted at night, and golf is just steps away. Excursions are organized with a level of expertise and creativity that one comes to expect from this chain: bird-watching, wine-tasting sojourns and wildlife expeditions. There is even a private plane (capacity six with pilot) that can whisk guests off on one-of-a-kind itineraries. Small gatherings (maximum 25) can be accommodated in the meeting space, and a lovely gazebo in the garden is gaining popularity with wedding and anniversary parties.
The standard, air-conditioned accommodations (Pavilions), all private villas with two entrances, furnished patios and small tiled fountains, are the most opulent digs in Morocco. The buildings' square-looking facades are full of surprises. Inside, the large bedrooms—with attached sitting areas—sit under capacious dome ceilings, and the talents of Morocco's top art trades are featured in high fashion: twisting, satiny thuya-wood tables and hand-planed cedar doors that hide modern conveniences; vibrant hand-woven Berber carpets atop rustic but rich-hued tiles
for floors and vanities; platform beds; exquisite ceramics from Fez lighted under traditional brass lanterns; and settees and custom-designed armchairs. Amenities include CD and DVD players, TVs, in-wall sound systems, in-wall safes, dual-line phones, modem jacks, high-speed Internet access, minibars, thermostats and large closets. Nearly as large as the living quarters, the baths have glassed-in soaking tubs overlooking private gardens, stall showers, two spacious vanity areas, stacks of plush towels, robes, hand-sewn Moroccan slippers, a slew of toiletries neatly displayed in hand-blown-glass bottles, and bowls of fragrant rose petals. Those who want the ultimate in privacy can book one of the eight Maisons. Each of these vast two-bedroom duplex villas provides two baths, a dining room and a private heated pool. Three of these pricey quarters offer large gardens with gazebos and butler's quarters—butler included. Others come with fireplaces, waterfalls and secluded gardens.
Room service never stops, and housekeeping is always at the ready. Dozens of roses are fresh upon arrival, bowls of fruit are replenished daily, bottled water is plentiful, and a choice of international newspapers is delivered each morning. No other hotel in Morocco comes close to offering up Amanjena's level of luxury, but none other charges such high rates. Many of the city's riads (especially the Villa des Orangers) provide high-end experiences, but this stunning Aman hotel is at the top of the ranks.