The center of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The evzones, dressed in traditional garb, guard the monument to the unknown soldier, which stands in the forecourt of the Greek Parliament. The changing-of-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour on the hour. It sounds sedate, until you witness the choreographed high kicks, all executed by soldiers in short, pleated skirts and clogs with pom-poms. In the metro station just beneath Syntagma Square is an exhibition of archaeological finds that were unearthed during the construction of two of the city's metro lines.