Remote and sparsely populated, Barbuda has the world's largest frigate-bird population (those large black birds that blow their big red throats up to unbelievable dimensions) and offers solitude and lots of beautiful, powdery white- and pink-sand beaches—but not much else. The island is very flat, scrubby and covered with cacti, hibiscus and red flamboyants. Most guests stay at one of four luxury resorts: Coco Point Lodge, The Beach House Hotel, North Beach or the K Club (which has been allowed to deteriorate of late), but there are guesthouses and budget accommodations available as well. There are many possibilities for snorkeling and diving among the splendid coral reefs just offshore, and about 100 shipwrecks are accessible to divers. (The big hotels rent snorkeling and dive gear to their guests, but there are no dive shops on Barbuda.)
Barbuda's main town,
Codrington, is tiny and can be seen in a few minutes. Aside from the resort hotels, it has only four basic—but good—restaurants. If you're a guest on the island, you will feel as if you're part of this friendly community immediately.
The Frigate Bird Sanctuary covers most of the island: It's home to some 150 species, including tropical mockingbirds, warblers, ducks and, most notably, frigates, which have a wingspan of 6 ft/2 m and an amazing courtship ritual: The males inflate bright-red throat pouches that can be seen from quite a distance. Codrington Lagoon, on the west side of the island, is a favorite place to see the frigates September-February. You may need to hire a boat to get a good look at them. The birds also nest in mangrove bushes near other lagoons on the island. Some are accessible by small motorboats with guides.
Also on Barbuda are excellent hiking and biking trails, from which it's possible to encounter wild pigs, deer and donkeys. Ancient petroglyphs carved by the Arawak Indians are located in underground caves in the Highlands area. The island's highest point, at 143 ft/43 m above sea level, is also in the Highlands. Most people visit Barbuda only on a day trip, but for true solitude and quiet, you might want to stay three or four nights. And consider hiring a local guide or boatman to explore the island: It's not the easiest place to navigate on your own. Barbuda is about 25 mi/40 km north of Antigua.