The amazing Templo Expiatorio de la Sagrada Familia, to give it its full name, has to be seen to be believed. Even then it's hard to comprehend. The foundation stone was laid in 1882, and Antoni Gaudi worked on the building for more than 40 years, leaving it unfinished when he died in 1926. Unfinished it remains, though work continues amid controversy: What few plans and models Gaudi left behind were destroyed or badly damaged at the outset of the Spanish Civil War, and those directing the current work are more or less guessing at the architect's intentions. You'll have no trouble distinguishing the portions that are pure Gaudi and those that are more recent additions, based on the color and condition of the stonework. Nonetheless, it's a must-see for all visitors to Barcelona (expect big crowds). Additions include color mosaics as well as materials such as carbon fiber, which did not exist during Gaudi's lifetime but are needed today to make the structure earthquake-proof. Upon completion, the building will nearly double in height.
In the crypt of the church, you will find one of the most complete explanations of Gaudi's work, including models, sculptures in progress, drawings, and photographs of the man himself and the progress of the church. We suggest you begin there so that you have a greater understanding of the rest of the building. After that, if you don't have a fear of heights, climb the dizzying circular stairway that ascends one of the massive church spires (an elevator—2 euros—will spare you some of the climbing). There are lookouts along the way, and you'll cross high walkways that yield views of the city and the ongoing church construction.
If you have time, don't miss the church Sunday school in the southeast corner of the site. It is a reconstruction of the building that mobs burned, along with Gaudi's laboratory, during the Spanish Civil War and shows the architect's ability to express his genius in a very small building. April-September open daily 9 am-8 pm; October-March till 6 pm. Guided tours are daily at 11 am and 1 pm, and also May-October at 3 and 5 pm. 8 euros adults. Guided tours and audio guides cost an additional 3.50 euros. Mallorca 401, Eixample, Barcelona. Phone 93-207-3031. http://www.sagradafamilia.org.
