The yuppies all flock to this chain of Szechuan restaurants that specializes in the perennially popular water-boiled fish (shui zhu hu), a spicy concoction of fish, peppers and bean sprouts. Also try the spicy crab (xiang la xie) and spicy snails (fu shou luo). Expect long lines. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order 10:30 pm). $$. No credit cards. 1 Gongti Beilu, 36 Xingfu Yicun Sixiang (off of Chunxiu Lu), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6415-3764.