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Benin Travel Guide

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Destination Guidebook for Benin
  
Benin was once the center of the great Dahomey empire, producing striking bronze sculptures. The royal palace in Abomey is only a remnant of what was once the grandest structure in all of West Africa. The practice of vodu, however, is as strong as ever, and it’s now one of the country's top cultural attractions. You can visit a museum to learn about vodu's past—or visit a market and buy a fetish from a current practitioner.

Benin’s other main export was slaves—for some 300 years, it was part of the "slave coast." Its animistic religion was shipped abroad along with enslaved practitioners and brought voodoo to the Western hemisphere. The population remaining today, about 7 million people tucked in between Togo and Nigeria, is poor and has survived years of political and ethnic strife.

The country’s tourism business is developing and draws on Atlantic beaches, fishing villages built on stilts along Lake Nokoue, and fine restaurants in Cotonou.

 
GeographyTop  Back to the top

With the exception of the Atakora Mountains in the northwest, Benin is a mostly flat country covered with dense vegetation. The coast is basically a sandbar protecting lagoons and marshes. The Oueme River forms a "highway" through the middle of the country. Most visitors don't stray from the country's southern half—the north of Benin is only for those who can put up with constant discomfort, dreadful food and hours of driving on awful roads.
 
HistoryTop  Back to the top

Benin, formerly Dahomey, is sandwiched between Togo and Nigeria on what was once known as the "Slave Coast" of Africa. People from nearly every tribe in West Africa passed through the town of Ouidah. Portuguese slavers and French colonists exerted their influence on the country, as did freed Brazilian slaves who returned to settle there.

After obtaining its independence from France in 1960, Benin struggled through 12 years of coups, countercoups and counter-countercoups. Then a group of army officers headed by Mathieu Kerekou took over and held power for almost 20 years. In an effort to break with the colonial past, Kerekou took Benin through a Marxist-Leninist period. His economic policies failed—strikes, demonstrations and coup attempts (as many as six in one year) became common as the situation worsened daily.

In 1990, Kerekou called for a national convention to draft a new constitution. The convention met, announced plans for the creation of a multiparty system and demanded Kerekou's resignation. Surprisingly, he agreed. Elections were held in 1991, and Kerekou stepped down, becoming the continent's first leader to be voted out of office. In 1996, however, he was reelected and has served as president ever since.

Benin, to Western eyes, is one of the most progressive nations in the sub-Sahara—there is far greater equality of the sexes there than in other countries in the region, and the country places heavy emphasis on education. (On the flipside, the emphasis on education has led to a bloated bureaucracy and high unemployment, as few jobs are available in the tiny private sector.) Serious problems of tribal and regional rivalry, a poorly developed infrastructure and extreme poverty continue to buffet the fledgling democracy. And, the continued presence of 20,000 refugees who fled neighboring Togo's political violence in early 2005 has exacerbated problems there.

Elections for a new president are scheduled to take place in March 2006. Kerekou is barred from running for a third term because of age and term limits set by the 1990 constitution.

 
SnapshotTop  Back to the top

Benin's foremost attractions are tribal culture, game reserves, markets, vodu sites and ceremonies, fishing villages, beautiful scenery and interesting architecture.

It's a good destination for adventurous travelers who are interested in African history and culture. Benin will not appeal to travelers who require deluxe accommodations or high standards of service.

 
PotpourriTop  Back to the top

Vodu is not just a tourist attraction in Benin—it is the state religion. Vodu National Day is 10 January.

Djimon Hounsou, the model and actor who played Cinque in Steven Spielberg's film Amistad, is from Cotonou.

An unknown number of Beninoise children are sold into slavery every year as "house helps" for wealthy Nigerian families. The Child Welfare League of Nigeria and the government of Benin are working to stop this trade.

The African Reparations Movement and other groups are lobbying the governments of Britain, Germany and other nations for the return of the royal art—the magnificent bronze sculptures—that were taken from the palace of the King of Benin during the colonists' "punitive expeditions" at the end of the 19th century. Some of the pieces are worth millions (whether calculated in U.S. dollars, British pounds or Central African francs). So far, no objects have been returned.

Angelique Kidjo is Benin's most well-known international name. The music star is known for mixing pop and jazz styles with the traditional Beninese zilin vocal style. Her recordings available internationally include Logozo and Aye.

Cobra Verde, a film by Werner Herzog, is a loose adaptation of Bruce Chatwin's book The Viceroy of Ouidah. It focuses on the bizarre life of Don Francisco Felix de Souza, who arrived in 1754 to run the Portuguese slaving fort in Ouidah. The movie was actually filmed in nearby Ghana.

Artisans (primarily weavers) still work in the open courtyard of the old royal palace in Abomey.

When it was a very powerful kingdom in West Africa, Dahomey had an army of women. The French called these women warriors Amazons because, like their mythological counterparts, they cut off one breast to facilitate combat.

The temples in Abomey attained their unique coloration during the preparation of the clay: War prisoners were killed and their blood was mixed in until the right hue was reached.

Roughly two-thirds of Benin's population lives in the south.

Among the ethnic groups represented in Benin are Yoruba (southeast), Fon (south-central), Mina (southwest), Bariba (northeast), Dendi (north-central) and Somba (northwest).

Only government-owned cars can be black.