| Dining Overview | Top  |
Both the variety and quality of Beijing's restaurants may surprise you. The city had fewer than 700 restaurants when Mao Zedong died in 1976 (restaurants were considered bourgeois), but energetic entrepreneurs have boosted that number considerably. Today, you'll find thousands of restaurants serving the cuisines of the world. Western chains are well-established and ubiquitous, including McDonald's, Starbucks, Outback Steakhouse, Pizza Hut, Tony Roma's and T.G.I. Friday's. International restaurateurs have also moved in to take advantage of the Beijing Olympic buzz, and several major restaurant openings are expected in spring and summer 2008.
If your itinerary will take you only to Beijing, you can visit the different regions of China by sampling their representative foods—from fiery Szechuan cuisine to the milder Cantonese (dim sum). Do try a restaurant specializing in Beijing (Peking) duck.
If you wish to save money or if you are adventurous, you may want to try street food in Beijing. Although most health organizations discourage this, visitors do it all the time—usually with mixed results. Our advice: The night market at Donghuamen is usually safe and is an exotic, delicious dining experience. Exercise good judgment when it comes to the small food stalls along the street, however. If no one's buying or if it looks at all unclean, don't take the risk.
Generally, lunch is served 11 am-1 pm. Restaurants then close and reopen for dinner 5:30-9 or 10 pm. A few places stay open without a break, 11 am-10 pm, and there are more places that stay open late. Less-expensive restaurants almost never have English speakers on staff. Usually reservations are not required unless you have more than five people in your party or it's a holiday. Credit cards are not widely accepted.
Note: Do not tip at restaurants. It's not expected and may even be construed as offensive. Some restaurants add a 15% service charge, which is sufficient to cover any gratuity.
Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks and tax: $ = less than 100 yuan; $$ = 100 yuan-200 yuan; $$$ = more than 200 yuan.
| Local & Regional | Top  |
This Xinjiang restaurant has become so popular (and, consequently overpriced) that reservations are necessary almost every night of the week. The primary dish is lamb, served in any number of styles—as roasted kebabs (
yang rou chuan), roasted and stir-fried (
chao kao yang rou) or served with chopped noodles and vegetables (
chao mian pian). The lamb tends to be spicy, so those with sensitive palates should choose stir-fried, rather than roasted, dishes. Dinner becomes a real event after 7:30 pm, when the resident Uighur musicians pick up their instruments. They're joined on stage by gyrating Uighur dancers. Be warned: Afunti is difficult to find. A taxi is the best way to get there. English menus are available. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order 10:30 pm). Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 2 Houguaibang Hutong, Chaoyangmennei Dajie, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6525-1071.
Near the embassy district, Da Dong is less romantic perhaps than Liqun, but it makes up for this with a bustling atmosphere and a broader range of homestyle dishes to go with the roast duck. Daily 11 am-10 pm. $$. Building 3, Tuanjiehu Beikou, Dongsanhuan Lu, southeast corner of Changhong Qiao, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6582-2892.
This super-hip dining spot specializes in Taiwanese cuisine and caters to a late-night hipster set. Nice decor and tasty food—try the Chongqing spicy chicken (
Chongqing laziji) and the famous ice snaps (
bao bing) for dessert. Take along your laptop: Bellagio outlets offer free wireless Internet connections. Two locations. Daily 24 hours. $$. Most major credit cards. 35 Xiaoyunlu (next to Kiss Disco), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 8451-9988.
The centerpiece of this converted Ming dynasty courtyard is a 100-year-old tree set amidst the refined traditional settings. The menu offerings are classified as
si jia cai, meaning that many of the varied regional dishes are unique to the restaurant. Try the
huang jiu (yellow wine) and
yi tiao lu buo—a delicious dish made from a single giant turnip. Daily for lunch and dinner (till 9 pm). $$. No credit cards. 32 Xiheyan, Xuanwumen, Xuanwu District, Beijing. Phone 8315-4678.
Located in a picturesque walled courtyard in a quiet
hutong near the Drum Tower, this family-owned Yunnan restaurant is a cherished gem. The set menu changes daily, and the homely terrace and outdoor garden are a perfect combination for laid-back spring and summer dining. $$. Most major credit cards. Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 8404-1430.
A refreshingly clean and modern environment serves up some of the best mutton hot pot in Beijing—fresh slices of lamb, searing broth and great sauces make this the perfect meal for cold weather. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order at midnight). $$. No credit cards. First floor, 14 Dongzhong Jie, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6417-2546.
This exquisite restaurant inside historic Beihai Park serves the kind of imperial cuisine the royals used to eat. The perfect tourist trap without the tackiness. Daily for dinner (last order 8 pm). $$$. Most major credit cards. 1 Wenjin Jie (inside Beihai Park), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6401-1889.
The yuppies all flock to this chain of Szechuan restaurants that specializes in the perennially popular water-boiled fish (
shui zhu hu), a spicy concoction of fish, peppers and bean sprouts. Also try the spicy crab (
xiang la xie) and spicy snails (
fu shou luo). Expect long lines. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order 10:30 pm). $$. No credit cards. 1 Gongti Beilu, 36 Xingfu Yicun Sixiang (off of Chunxiu Lu), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6415-3764.
Get a taste of old Beijing at this traditional-style restaurant replete with robed waiters who yell out a greeting when you walk inside. Try the
zha jiang mian noodles and the selection of old Beijing street foods. Daily for lunch and dinner. $. No credit cards. Dongsi Shitiao (655 ft/200 m west of Poly Plaza), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 8403-7831.
Right in the middle of the Houhai nightlife district, this restaurant is a Beijing institution. It offers cuisine of the Chinese Muslim minority, specializing in barbecued lamb and steamed sesame buns. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order 11 pm). $. 14 Qianhai Dongyan, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6404-2554.
Great Shaoxing (a town in Zhejiang province) style cuisine at these restaurants named for the downtrodden character in a Lu Xun short story. Try the
zui xia drunken shrimp (eaten raw and wriggling) if you dare. The more picturesque Houhai location, set by the lake, is the best one to visit when you tour the surrounding
hutongs. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order 10 pm). $$. No credit cards. South bank of Houhai, Shichahai, Deshengmennei Dajie, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6618-4917.
The Hakka people of China's southern provinces have developed one of the country's most interesting cuisines, using the freshest ingredients. This faux-rustic setting is an ideal place to savor traditional Hakka fare. Fish dishes can be excessively salty. A second location in Qianhai (called Han Cang) has scenic views of Shichahai lake. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. No credit cards. Opposite north gate of Beihai Park, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6404-2259.
Owner Mr. Li was the head chef at Quanjude in the early 1990s before he branched out on his own. His small restaurant is great for out-of-towners who want to experience a Peking duck meal in an authentic old Beijing (albeit decrepit) setting. Best to have a Chinese-speaking guide with you, as the place is tricky to find in the winding
hutongs. Get there soon: The neighborhood where Liqun is located could be demolished at any time. Daily for lunch and dinner (till 10 pm). Reservations required. $$. No credit cards. 11 Beixiangfeng, Zhengyi Lu (northeast of Qianmen), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6705-5578.
Flash-boiled lamb (
shuan yang rou), a variation on the Szechuan hot pot, shows the influence the nomadic Mongolian people have had on Chinese culture. A self-contained kettle is set to boil, and spices and vegetables are added to create a soup base. The main dish is lamb, but beef, vegetables and rice vermicelli can be added as well. After cooking, each piece is dipped into a peanut sauce flavored with cilantro and chili oil. The restaurant is not easy to find, but it's so famous that most drivers and hotel personnel know it. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. No credit cards. 5 Taipingqiao, Baitasi, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6595-7241.
This is the most elegant of the Quanjude chain of restaurants, but it's also more expensive. The cheapest way to go is right next door, where the same kitchen does the same exquisite duck for about one-quarter of the price (served fast-food style or as takeout). Either way, don't overlook the asparagus. Daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 32 Qianmen Dajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6511-2418.
Housed in a lovingly renovated, traditional courtyard dwelling, this is the place to splurge on a meal fit for emperors. The menu is crammed with Beijing favorites. Nostalgia is the watchword there: The Red Capital Club features a 1950s-era cigar and cocktail lounge. (Pick up the retro-style black phone and listen to speeches by Mao Zedong.) Daily for dinner (closes at midnight). $$$. Most major credit cards. 66 Dongsi Jiutiao, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6402-7150.
One of the see-and-be-seen places frequented by Beijing's
bobo (bourgeois bohemian) set. This restaurant, opened by famous contemporary Chinese artist Fang Lijun, serves Yunnan-style dishes with an urban twist. Try the water-dipped fish (
zhanshuiyu) and the famous rice wine (
mi jiu). Funky, modern and hip. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order 10:30 pm). $$. No credit cards. Lotus Lane (Hehua Shichang), Shichahai, Qianhai Xiyan, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6615-5515.
The Red Rose serves delicious Uighur food in a lively atmosphere. The lamb kebabs and the house band are big draws. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order 11 pm). $. No credit cards. Xinfu Yicun Qixiang (in a small alley across from the Workers' Stadium), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6415-5741.
This chic favorite of the city's bohemian crowd is the brainchild of three artists from Guizhou province and is famed for its fiery cuisine. Don't miss the fragrant peppermint salad (
xiangban bohe) and the sour fish soup (
suantangyu). Daily for lunch and dinner. $. Most major credit cards. Jianwei Soho Building 3, 39 Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 5869-0598.
Consistently one of the most popular Japanese restaurants in Beijing, Hatsune serves up California-style fusion sushi in a sleek modern environment—one of the few places in town that serves fresh avocados with its rolls. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Heqiao Dasha, Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6581-3939.
Renowned by Japanese and
gaijin (foreigner) alike for its authentic Japanese cuisine, this upscale restaurant serves Kyoto-style Japanese food, specializing in fresh fish dishes. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Go south from China World (Guomao) and cross to the east side of the street next to the Yanyuan Hotel, Beijing. Phone 6771-0218.
This cozy, stylish eatery serves excellent Thai food—try the milk tea and the delicious green curry. Conveniently located near the embassy area. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. No credit cards. The Gateway Building, 10 Yabao Lu (across from the Bank of China), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 8561-5236.
Serves some of the best Thai and Southeast Asian food in town. The artistically decorated dining room is a bit small, but it's conveniently located and a great place to dine before sampling the local nightlife. It has a nice, elevated sidewalk deck for spring and summer evenings. Daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$. No credit cards. Sanlitun Bar Street, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 8454-4580.
There are three Sorabol Korean restaurants in Beijing. Filling standards:
kalbi (short ribs),
bulgogi (barbecued beef) and
mandu (dumplings filled with ground pork, kimchi, spring onions and bean curd). Vegetable side dishes are a meal in themselves. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. 2-F Landmark Towers, 8 Dongsanhuan Bei Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6590-6688, ext. 5119.
Just like a French brasserie, from the well-prepared steaks to the onion soup to the comprehensive wine list. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order at midnight). $$$. Rainbow Plaza, 16 Dongsanhuan Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6595-5135.
Authentic German food featuring sausages, sauerkraut, German beers (the draft Wernesgruner is only 16 yuan) and outstanding oven-roasted pork knuckles. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order at midnight). $$. 15A Guanghua Lu (east of Ritan Park south gate in the Ritan Office Building), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 8562-6439.
This Italian restaurant is known for its 18 varieties of wood-fired pizza. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. 16 Xinyuan Lu, 984 ft/300 m north of Capital Mansion, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6460-0896.
Big, comfy chairs and excellent service. A good choice for entertaining, business lunches or dinners—it definitely makes the right impression. But frankly, for the price, the food should be much better. Daily for lunch and dinner (till 10 pm). $$$. Most major credit cards. St. Regis Hotel, 21 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6460-6688, ext. 2441.
Great home-style Italian food served by Gisa herself, proud owner of Beijing's only dairy farm that specializes in European-style cheeses. Daily for lunch and dinner (till 11 pm). $$. Most major credit cards. 1 Nongzhan Nanlu (by the west gate of Chaoyang Park), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6594-0938.
The place for fresh pasta and one of Beijing's best Italian restaurants. Choose a pasta from column A on the menu and a sauce from column B. Try the spinach ravioli but start with an appetizer (they're all good) and leave room for the marble cheesecake. Daily for lunch and dinner (till 10 pm). $$. Most major credit cards. 6 W. Workers' Stadium Road (Gongti Xilu), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6552-7828.
| Latin American | Top  |
This elegant restaurant in the heart of Sanlitun frequently pops up in the Best Restaurant category in local listings magazines. It's easy to be won over by its unpretentious contemporary Brazilian cuisine, friendly service and cheerful, well-designed interior. The lunch menu is the best value in town. Daily for lunch and dinner (till 10:30 pm). Reservations recommended. $$. Sanlitun Beijie (beside the Nali Mall), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6417-8084.
| Middle Eastern | Top  |
Beijing's best Middle Eastern restaurant serves excellent versions of all the standards: tabbouleh, pita bread and lamb kebabs. You can even rent a hookah to smoke tobacco while you watch the belly dancer. Daily for lunch, dinner and late-night (till 2 am). Sanlitun Gongti Beilu (across from the Zhaolong Hotel), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6532-4050.
This upscale restaurant features Spanish paella and sangria. It's a nice place for a romantic dinner and an ideal place to check out Beijing's art scene—the walls of the restaurant are lined with paintings by contemporary Chinese artists. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. No credit cards. 168 Xinzhong Jie (opposite Workers' Stadium), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6416-6231.
This has been one of Beijing's hottest tables. It is mainland China's finest Catalan-influenced eatery, with a well-trained waitstaff and fine Spanish wines. Prices are not cheap, but this is a restaurant that could hold its head up in any city of the world. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Second floor, Commercial Zone, Jia 6, Chaoyangmenwai Dajie (north of Central Park Apartments), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 5907-0088.
Great mock-meat dishes made from tofu and gluten products. Try the spicy "lamb" kebabs and spicy "chicken." Daily for lunch and dinner. $. 12 Liufang Nanli, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6465-3299.
Fascinating restaurant run by Buddhist monks where all the dishes are veggie, even the ones that resemble meat. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Zhongguo Wenlianyuan, 10 Nongzhanguan Nanlu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6592-3627.
| Breakfast & Brunch | Top  |
Founded by a bona fide grandmother from Texas, this is the capital's best American home cooking. Service could be better, but the young waitstaff tries hard. Stick with the classics: pancakes, waffles, omelettes and skillets. Two locations. Daily 7:30 am-10 pm. $. 11A Xiushui Nanjie (behind the Friendship Store), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6503-2893.
Founder Peter is the adopted son of Grandma from Grandma's Kitchen, and she certainly taught him everything he knows about cooking. The omelettes and burritos there do the Lone Star State proud. Daily 7:30 am-11 pm. $. 88A International Club, 21 Jianguomenwai Da Jie (next to the St. Regis Hotel), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 8532-2449.
A rowdy nightlife spot after dark, The Den does a consistently good and civilized champagne brunch for about 80 yuan. Its convenient location next to the City Hotel and near the Sanlitun area makes it an ideal meeting spot. Open 24 hours on weekends; till 7 pm weekdays. $. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6592-6290.
A small, vibey
hutong cafe that is the spot for an unpretentious, homestyle Sunday brunch with a group of friends. It draws a varied crowd of savvy Beijing residents for its Western breakfasts, pastas, burgers and salads—and the portions are more than respectable. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 31 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District (near the Lama Temple), Beijing. Phone 6402-7961.
One of the most popular upscale dining venues with the business-lunch crowd. Swanky environment. Daily for lunch and dinner (last order 10 pm). Bar is open 11 am-1 am. $$$. Most major credit cards. 2/F China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6505-2266, ext. 36.
Molecular gastronomy and experimental eclecticism is giving this eatery a very good name with local and visiting foodies. The only downside, apart from the prices, is the location, which is a ways from downtown. The high-class cuisine is worth the cab fare, however. $$$. Most major credit cards. Shangri-La Hotel, 29 Zizhiyuan Lu, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6841-2211.
Beijing institution serving delicious Belgian dishes, including veal, steak tartare, juicy mussels and, of course, waffles. Terrific selection of Belgian beers. Two locations. Daily except Monday for lunch and dinner (last order 10:30 pm). Bar closes at 1 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Gongti Beilu (across from the north gate of the Workers' Gymnasium at the Chunxiu Lu intersection), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6416-8802.
The Courtyard is a magnificent upscale restaurant set on the banks of the Forbidden City's moat. Housed in a tastefully decorated, gray stone building with exposed ceiling beams and well-worn leather armchairs in the upstairs cigar bar. Works by local contemporary artists are on display. The decidedly European menu is inventive and changes regularly, but the salmon is a constant favorite. Daily for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. 95 Donghuamen parking lot (adjacent to the Forbidden City), Beijing. Phone 6526-8883.
| Other Options | Top  |
Funky fusion food or pretentious schlock? You be the judge. The minimalist-inspired place serves "conceptual cuisine" amidst obtrusive chairs and artsy paraphernalia. A good taste of contemporary Beijing cultural kitsch. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. No credit cards. No. 6 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6552-8311.
Another minimalist-inspired contemporary venue that appeals to yuppies of all stripes. There's an open-plan kitchen reminiscent of bistros in the U.S. Daily for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Peninsula Palace Hotel, 8 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6559-2888, ext. 6714.
Good, authentic home-style Russian restaurant right next to the Russian Embassy off Dongzhimennei. A great place to eat hearty Western food (including black caviar) on the cheap. Daily for lunch and dinner. $. No credit cards. 1A Xiyangguan Hutong, Beizhong Jie, Dongzhimennei Dajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6403-1896.