| Dining Overview | Top  |
In recent years, the restaurant scene in Jakarta has experienced enormous growth, catering to the young business elite who have profited from the national economy's precipitous ups and downs. For gourmets, there's a wide selection of elegant restaurants, some set in lovely old mansions, others in cool, chic modern hotels. Geographically, two areas stand out for dining: Jalan Wahid Hasyim, near Merdeka Square, and Kemang in the southern part of the city. Both offer diversity in terms of cuisine and price.
For a uniquely Indonesian treat, try the rijsttafel, or "rice table," invented by the Dutch, which includes an array of small dishes that are brought to the table by a parade of servers. Restaurants specializing in fusion food—Asian cuisine with a twist—are also increasingly popular. Vegetarians will have a tough time finding meatless offerings, although most hotel cafes and Indian restaurants do offer some vegetarian dishes.
Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than 100,000 Rp; $$ = 100,000 Rp-200,000 Rp; $$$ = 200,001 Rp-400,000 Rp; $$$$ = more than 400,000 Rp.
| Local & Regional | Top |
An antiques store turned exquisite dining experience, the mazelike Dapur Babah Elite is an outstanding tribute to Babah culture and authentic Babah Jawa cuisine. Babah cuisine is a mixture of Chinese, Dutch and Javanese food served with a wide variety of small servings rather than a single large dish. The menu can be a tad intimidating, but the knowledgeable staff will help you out. Try for a seating in one of the large rooms toward the rear—atmospheric Jakarta dining at its best. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch, lunch and dinner. $$$. Jalan Veteran 18-19, Jakarta. Phone 385-5653.
Set in a house typical of the Dutch colonial period, Kedai Tiga Nyonya is an affordable option for delving into authentic Nonya (or Peranakan) food. Nonya is a fusion of Malay and Chinese cuisine, and the house specialty of Garoupa is well-worth sampling. The interior of the two-story house is a spectacle in itself with a meld of Batavian and Chinese artifacts. Open daily for lunch and dinner (Sunday-Thursday closes at 10 pm). $$. Jalan Wahid Hasyim 73, Jakarta. Phone 316-0971.
This restaurant is housed in an old Dutch villa with stained-glass windows. Strolling Batak singers entertain diners, but they tend to be distracting amid the elegance. (The cashier may insist on giving you an audiotape of their songs to take home.) The Continental dishes are good, but the 12-course traditional rijsttafel served by a parade of 12 servers is not to be missed. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations required for parties larger than two. $$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Raden Saleh Raya 47, Menteng, Jakarta. Phone 315-0646.
A decades-old Jakarta chain with seven branches. The location in the center of town is very pleasant, with wood paneling and floor-to-ceiling windows. The restaurant specializes in
satay—choose from chicken, beef, mutton or tripe. It's served on sizzling hot plates, 10 sticks at a time. Traditional soups such as
sop ayam (chicken soup) and grilled carp, squid and king prawn are also available. Daily for lunch and dinner. $. Most major credit cards. Jalan Kebon Sirih 31-A, Menteng, Jakarta. Phone 3192-6238.
Despite being an Indonesian restaurant chain, the food at these eateries is both authentic and very good. There are more than 15 outlets around Jakarta. You'll find them to be clean and professionally managed. Daily for lunch and dinner. $. No credit cards. Jalan Bendungan Hilir Raya 1, Pusat (in front of the BCA Bank), Jakarta. Phone 571-2741.
The interior is chic and comfortable, with Indonesian teak chairs and a large Chinese gate at the entrance of the private dining room. Food is modern Asian with a European twist—try the lamb chops with spicy roasted sweet potatoes, mint salsa and green chili. The crowded bar is the semiofficial watering hole of Jakarta's press corps, which is headquartered in the Deutsche Bank building next door. Large wine selection served generously. Open daily for dinner. Reservations recommended one day in advance. $$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Imam Bonjol 76-78 (in Plaza Gani Djemat), Menteng, Jakarta. Phone 390-3615.
Very popular with Chinese businessmen entertaining in the central business district. It serves a number of elaborately decorated appetizer dishes—try the cold lobster—as well as seafood and spicy Szechuan entrees. A dim-sum brunch is offered on Sunday. Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Sudirman 25, Menteng (on the ground floor of Plaza Lippo), Jakarta. Phone 522-1933.
Hazara has moved locations, but the food has remained excellent. Now housed alongside Lanna Thai and Face Bar, Hazara pushes itself as "frontier cuisine," and the menu, divided into Tandoor and Hindi, will take more than a few visits to exhaust. Intimate yet comfortable, the setting is well-enhanced by the friendly and helpful staff. If one of your companions would prefer Thai, you're also able to order from the Lanna Thai menu if you wish. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Kusuma Atmaja 85, Jakarta. Phone 3192-5037. http://www.facebars.com.
A relaxing gallery restaurant that allows you to admire paintings by local artists as well as the street scene visible through the glass facade. Pan-Asian menu with salads and freshly made desserts. Daily for late lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Mahakam 1-2, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta. Phone 722-2864.
Arguably Jakarta's most popular Thai restaurant, Lanna Thai is set atop a stunning traditional wooden house in the heart of central Jakarta. Service is prompt and professional, and the menu is simple yet comprehensive. Dishes are a little on the small side, so don't hesitate to order a few. Start the evening with a
lychee martini at the very popular Face Bar downstairs. Indian cuisine from the adjoining restaurant Hazara is also available. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Kusuma Atmaja 85, Jakarta. Phone 3192-5037. http://www.facebars.com.
Payon's superb garden setting makes it a must for first-time visitors to Jakarta. Exquisite Indonesian food is delivered under an ornate
sala, which looks out over the
frangipani-studded garden. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Kemang Raya 17 (in the heart of Kemang), Jakarta. Phone 719-4826.
The Champa restaurant's intimate atmosphere is accentuated by discreet service and decorative Asian weavings, which separate some of the tables. Specializing in Thai and Vietnamese cuisine, Champa is well-worth considering as a diversion from the more traditional Indonesian fare on offer elsewhere in Jakarta. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Also known as the TC Kafe and Bar, this Kemang hangout has an outstanding jazz singer Thursday nights and is popular with young Jakarta professionals. The cuisine is a hodgepodge, with "classic global sets" that include Indonesian, Asian and international dishes. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Kemang Raya 24-A, Kemang, Jakarta. Phone 719-4268.
Alex is an expert on wine and serious about making foodies feel at home at his signature restaurant in Kemang. The house specialty is tournedos with mushroom ragout. Also recommended is the roasted quail stuffed with foie gras and risotto, wrapped with bacon and sage. The smallish wine list contains one gem after another, and after-dinner cigars are almost de rigueur. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Raya Kemang 30, Kemang, Jakarta. Phone 718-2770.
Jakarta's elite like to wine and dine at Margaux amid the splendor of elegant French decor. The beef dishes are recommended. Sunday brunch, Monday-Friday for lunch, daily for dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Sudirman 1 (in the Shangri-La Hotel), Menteng, Jakarta. Phone 574-8462.
Located in the shadow of the Grand Mosque, among a spread of fine-dining choices, is this nice, quiet place for a long lunch. Choose from the extensive pasta and pizza selections or let the chef offer you a sampling of appetizers and entrees from different regions. The Cuba Libre cigar lounge upstairs tends to be empty, but that's part of its charm. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Veteran I 30, Jakarta. Phone 344-7288.
Izzy makes probably the best pizzas in Jakarta in a comfortable, family-orientated fashion—and best of all they deliver. A huge leap ahead of other semi-fast pizzas, Izzy has a half dozen branches spread across Jakarta. If you're staying in a hotel, ask the hotel to call for you—they'll have an account. Mahakam Jalan Mahakam 17, Jakarta. Phone 720-8888.
It's not exactly the gates of Venice, but the ambience is fairly romantic, with elegant candlesticks and murals of medieval Italian grape-picking scenes. The lunch menu includes Asian fare, as well as pasta dishes, Greek salads and Mediterranean-style fillet of snapper. The dinner selection is mostly Italian; pumpkin ravioli is one of our favorites. But the real standouts are the breads and the desserts: Try the
cannelloni dolci. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Garnisun Dalam 8 (in the Aston Hotel), Semanggi, Jakarta. Phone 251-5151.
A stylish, sometimes hyperdramatic Italian restaurant at the InterContinental Hotel. Scusa's menu is small and somewhat predictable, but the food is well-cooked and delicious. The pizzas have a yeasty, spicy tang, and the pasta is gratifyingly al dente. Daily for dinner only. $$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Sudirman Kav. 10-11 (in the Hotel InterContinental Mid-Plaza), Jakarta. Phone 251-4188.
| Middle Eastern | Top  |
This restaurant features authentic Turkish food served in a pleasant lounge, where you can smoke a hookah pipe after your meal. The mixed grill is a favorite dish, as is the hummus served with fresh-baked pita bread. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Kemang Raya 110 A, Kemang, Selatan, Jakarta. Phone 719-658.
| Cafes & Tearooms | Top |
This very popular cafe in the heart of Jakarta offers extensive buffet selections, as well as dishes that can be ordered from the menu—the tasting trees are excellent. The smoked salmon on croissant is a good choice for breakfast. The cafe has ringside seats overlooking the Welcome Statue roundabout—a good observation point during political demonstrations. Service can be surprisingly slow for a hotel of this class. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Thamrin 28 (in the Grand Hyatt Hotel), Jakarta. Phone 390-1234, ext. 3300.
Curl up with a book, sip exotic teas and allow yourself to be lulled into tranquility by traditional Javanese music. High tea is properly English—finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and preserves, and a choice of teas. Daily 7 am-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Brawijaya Raya 26, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta. Phone 725-8181.
| Coffeehouses | Top |
This place offers a lot of fantasy concoctions, including coffee with avocado or coconut cream. Generally crowded with shoppers, it's a good place to people-watch or buy bags of coffee beans from all over Indonesia. Daily 10 am-10 pm. $. Most major credit cards. Plaza Indonesia, Jalan Thamrin 28-30, Menteng, Jakarta. Phone 3192-7059.
This is an intimate restaurant offering vibrant southern European seafood dishes as well as lots of meats and fresh herbs. Drinks are available at the cozy lounge down the hallway. Monday-Friday for lunch, Saturday for dinner only. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Rasuna Said X-O (in the Gran Melia Hotel), Kuningan, Jakarta. Phone 526-8080, ext. 2320.
The lavish red-and-gold decor of this restaurant is said to be inspired by the eighth-century Sriwijaya kingdom. Diners seeking to savor as much of its haute cuisine as possible might want to try the tasting menu for 575,000 Rp. Innovative fish dishes are also a good choice. Attentive but unobtrusive staff. Daily for dinner only (last order at 10:30). Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Brawijaya Raya 26 (in The Dhamarwangsa), Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta. Phone 725-8181.
Occupying a beautifully restored 19th-century Dutch-colonial building in historic Fatahillah Square, this restaurant and late-night club serves good Chinese and European food as well as midnight snacks. The decor is eclectic, with cloth-draped birdcages in the main dining room, cowhide bar stools and an assortment of celebrity portraits on the walls. A jazz band plays on Friday and Saturday nights. Otherwise the crowd tends to be thin and mostly tourists. Open 24 hours a day. $$$. Most major credit cards. Taman Fatahillah, Kota, Jakarta. Phone 691-5531.
This Jakarta branch of a Hong Kong seafood restaurant serves classic Cantonese cuisine in a bright, contemporary dining room accented with historic photographs of the Hong Kong fishing village that gives the place its name. Try the poached clams in Shaohsing wine sauce, stewed
garoupa in casserole or "Buddha Jumps Over the Wall," a thick, luscious soup. Daily for lunch and dinner. Most major credit cards. Standard and Chartered Bank Building, Jalan Surdiman Kav. 33-A (basement level), Jakarta. Phone 5795-1646.
Set in spacious grounds next to the Parliament complex, Pulau Dua tries to evoke rustic island dining through the clever use of moats and bridges. Often crowded with large parties. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Gatot Subroto, Taman Ria Senayan, Jakarta. Phone 570-8906.
| Steak Houses | Top |
If you're adventurous enough to want to eat where locals do, try Abubakar's Steak Grill and Barbecue, where your food is cooked right before your eyes. The interior dining area is very small, with a larger but crowded space for tables outside. Though not fancy, the food is great, and the cost is very low. You can't miss the place—because of the open-air cooking, the smoke from the grill can be seen (and smelled) from far away. Very little English spoken. Daily for lunch and dinner. $. Jalan Cipete Raya 6, Selatan (located in far southern Jakarta), Jakarta. Phone 751-2337.
For many years the unrivaled king of posh expense-account restaurants in Jakarta, the Steak House serves superb American beef with all the fixings, perfectly prepared and presented in an atmosphere of relaxed elegance. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Rasuna Said (in the Four Seasons Hotel), Kuningan, Jakarta. Phone 252-3456.
| Other Options | Top |
From the gleaming wine racks at the entrance to the wide-open kitchen where woks rock and grills blaze, this stylish restaurant at the Grand Hyatt is pure theater. When it opened in 2002, it became one of the city's favorite eateries overnight, and even now its popularity hasn't ebbed. Try the traditional grills and classic Chinese food or savor such delicacies as the gratin of plump Aussie oysters or seared foie gras. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Plaza Indonesia (in the Grand Hyatt Hotel), Jakarta. Phone 390-6056.
This street stand is the best place to try
martabak, a deep-fried Indonesian egg pancake.
Martabak manis is a pancake with chocolate, peanut or cheese filling. Try the chocolate: The unique Indonesian taste is unforgettable.
Martabak Telur is a pancake with a vegetable omelet pastry. If you don't want it too spicy, ask for it "
sedikit pedas." If you're concerned about your cholesterol, don't watch as your food is prepared—your cholesterol count will jump 10 points just by looking. But one
martabak meal while you're in Jakarta is worth it. $. Fatmawati 22 (just south of D'Best Mall, near the intersection of Jalan Cipete Raya and Fatmawati), Jakarta. Phone 766-1666.
This elegant, cosmopolitan restaurant on bustling Wahid Haysim has become one of the most popular places for young professionals to meet—the huge mirrors hanging on the wall fronting the balcony are an entertaining flirtation device. Spicy Thai soups make perfect starters, followed by grilled U.S. beef, fish or shellfish. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Wahid Haysim 55-A, Menteng, Jakarta. Phone 314-4113.
A dinner theater, Sampan Bujana Sentra showcases the work of well-known Indonesian dancer and choreographer Sampan Hismanto. He stages an hour-long program of three regional dances—from Bali, Sumatra and Java—and an
angklung music recital. The shows are offered Monday-Saturday, with dinner beginning at 7 pm and the performance at 8 pm. Reservations required. $$$. Ticket includes dinner and a drink. Most major credit cards. Jalan Teuku Cik Ditiro II 1, Menteng, Jakarta. Phone 392-3930.
A combination English pub and German
bierkeller, it serves typical pub fare as well as steaks you cook yourself. It's popular with young diplomats, thanks to its location close to the Indonesian Foreign Ministry. Daily for dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Jalan Prapatan 44-48 (in Hotel Aryaduta), Jakarta. Phone 2352-1234.
