As would be expected, the sushi and sashimi (small blocks of raw fish) are excellent. Other specialties include Kobe beef served as steak (very expensive) or in sukiyaki; cooked salt- and freshwater fish (often served whole); miso soup; and a wide variety of vegetable dishes. Tempura and teriyaki are two popular ways of preparing seafood and vegetables. Chilled
mori soba (cold buckwheat noodles) are refreshing in the summer, and hearty
nabe hot pots are warming in the winter. If you're feeling a little adventurous, try broiled eel—it's delicious. Tofu is commonly eaten, either chilled with a simple dip, cooked in soups and stews, or basted and grilled (
dengaku).
For those on a budget, noodle shops offer meals that are simple, quick and satisfying. Ranging from basic stand-up counters on station platforms to more sophisticated places serving a range of side dishes, these are Japan's original fast food outlets (feel free to slurp—in Japan it means you are enjoying the dish). Yakitori, a very popular dish, is made from chunks of chicken or squid on skewers, grilled over charcoal and served with a sauce made from soy and sake.
Japan is not an easy country for strict vegetarians to visit, as most of the soup stocks and dipping sauces are made with fish extracts. You can find excellent Chinese food, including popular gyoza potstickers and the ubiquitous ramen noodles. In Hiroshima, try okonomiyaki, a pancake filled with cabbage, meat, seafood and sometimes noodles. Be sure to specify how you want your meat cooked—it's generally presented raw to medium.
Following your meal, try some refreshing green-tea ice cream. There are several varieties, and it's available in Japan's numerous convenience stores.
Less-expensive restaurants and those in department stores often have window displays of the foods they serve—the plastic food in the displays is amazingly realistic. Sometimes this display takes the place of a menu: One waiter took us outside to the window so we could point out our choices. If you cannot understand a printed menu, you can (discreetly) look at the dishes on the other tables and (discreetly) point out to the waiter what looks good to you. Generally, Japanese food is made from fresh ingredients and is not highly seasoned (though soy sauce is used throughout).
The appearance of a meal is an important aspect of the art of Japanese food preparation, so take a moment to appreciate the visual presentation before you dig in. Try a Japanese breakfast—at least once. Even if you don't prefer cooked rice, fish and miso soup for breakfast, it's an adventure and the presentation will brighten your day. Expect to eat a lot of eggs if you order the "American" or "Western" breakfast. Western food is widely available in larger cities—especially Italian (spaghetti and pizza are almost as widespread as they are in the West). Outside Tokyo, French food tends to be formal and pricey. Lower down the food chain, there are fast-food and burger chains—both homegrown and imported—on virtually every corner.
Green tea is the preferred beverage with many meals, but you can find alternatives such as soft drinks. Don't expect to find decaffeinated coffee, however. The Japanese drink the real stuff—and really strong. You should sample some sake while in Japan—the famous rice wine is more akin to a liquor than a wine and can be an acquired taste, but it's an essential part of the Japanese experience.
While not strictly a dining experience, if you have the time to spare, try one of the maid cafes, the latest craze to hit Japan. Waitresses in saucy French maid uniforms will call you master or mistress and use the ketchup bottle to paint lovable characters on your meal. On the other hand, they may abuse you from the time you enter the cafe—or they may do both. Shows are usually a part of the experience, and its quite amusing to watch geeks along with salary-men as they sing along with gusto as their favorite waitress belts out the latest J-pop tune. The cafes can be found around Akibahara in Tokyo and Nihonbashi in Osaka.
