| Dining Overview | Top  |
You'll find great eateries everywhere in Mexico City, from taco vendors to upscale restaurants. You'll also find cuisines from every part of the world, especially in Condesa and Polanco. In addition, a lot of big hotels routinely host food festivals with invited chefs who prepare their best dishes.
There are a number of not-to-be-missed treats representing authentic Mexican cuisine. First, foremost and ubiquitous are tacos—corn (or occasionally flour) tortillas wrapped around any of a variety of meats, from chicken and seasoned steak to criadillas de res (bull testicles). Also try carne asada, thin slices of grilled beef fillet, and if you see chiles en nogada (poblano peppers stuffed with meat and fruit and topped with a walnut cream sauce and pomegranate seeds), be sure to order it (some restaurants only serve it seasonally).
Another traditional dish is mole, a thick sauce that is available in many varieties, not just the kind made with chocolate: It's generally served with chicken and is one of the best-known dishes of the country. Sopa de tortilla, chicken-tomato broth with strips of fried tortillas, chilies and bits of cheese, is tasty and not too spicy.
Some traditional restaurants also offer pozole, a hearty soup filled with hominy and shredded pork. And be aware that Mexicans are more likely to sip tequila or mescal than to gulp it down in one shot, though it's done both ways.
Typical hours for breakfast are 8-11 am. Many of the large hotels offer sumptuous breakfast buffets and weekend brunches. The main meal of the day is usually eaten at a leisurely pace between 2 and 4 pm. A lot of business is conducted during those long lunch hours. Most restaurants remain open into the evening—you may dine as early as you choose, but don't expect to see many other diners before 9 pm. Many restaurants close early on Sunday evening.
Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than M$100; $$ = M$100-$200; $$$ = M$201-$400; $$$$ = more than M$400.
| Local & Regional | Top |
Hip Kitchen
A good name for an ultra-hip place. Mostly Mexican but with a brush of Asia, Hip's menu by chef Lalo Vasquez has imaginative dishes drawing crowds of local professionals. Decorated in stylish black and red colors, it features shrimp seviche, roasted duck in raspberry sauce, huitlacoche (corn fungus) in noodles and wicked martinis. For starters, try the fried soy beans with ham and shrimp. The cheesecake can't be beat for dessert. Live jazz on Saturday. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night. Reservations recommended Wednesday-Saturday nights, when the place gets packed. $$$. Most major credit cards. Avenida Mexico 188, Col. Hipodromo (in the Hippodrome Hotel), Mexico City. Phone 5212-2110.
San Angel Inn
A meal in this magnificent old hacienda, once owned by European counts, is perfect for a special occasion or if you just want to experience the grandeur of a bygone era. Graceful archways, dark mahogany furniture, crisp white tablecloths and beautiful Talavera tablewear complement the excellent white-glove service. The menu of classic Mexican dishes with creative twists includes outstanding huitlacoche (corn mushroom) crepes, Peking duck in prune sauce and dark mole over turkey. Desserts don't disappoint either, with rich cream-filled pastries to lighter meringues, and the wine cellar is excellent, too. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended on Friday and Saturday. Diego Rivera 50, San Angel, Mexico City. Phone 5616-1402. http://www.sanangelinn.com.
This well-established restaurant is decorated with handsome hand-painted antique tiles and 18th-century paintings. Enchiladas Tacuba (a casserole of chicken-filled tortillas covered with a spinach and green poblano-pepper sauce) are especially delicious, as are the
chalupas a la poblana (an open taco served with spicy chorizo sausage). This downtown restaurant has spirited
estudiantina (student minstrels) Wednesday-Sunday starting in the afternoon. Daily 8 am-11:30 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Tacuba 28, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5518-4950 or 5521-2048.
Spacious, bright and airy, El Bajio draws a mixed crowd of businesspeople, neighborhood locals and a smattering of tourists. The space, laden with folk art, is the perfect place for a leisurely, traditional Mexican lunch. The menu features traditional Veracruz, Michoacan and Puebla specialties, expertly prepared with a gourmet touch by owner-chef Dona Titita. Recommended are the
tacos de jaiba estilo Xico—three small crab tacos steamed in a banana leaf, with spicy seasonings—and a variety of delicious mole platters. Daily 8 am–6 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Ave. Cuitlahuac 2709, Col. Obrero Mundial (six blocks from Cuitlahuac metro stop), Mexico City. Phone 5341-9889. http://www.carnitaselbajio.com.mx.
For breakfast near the Zocalo, this stately, colonial restaurant is highly recommended. Diners can enjoy freshly baked pastries and some of Mexico's best hot chocolate, as well as enchiladas and varied egg dishes. It tends to fill up quickly on weekends—plan to arrive early. Later in the day, El Cardenal serves hearty, traditional Mexican fare. A second branch is located inside the Sheraton Centro Historico Hotel, across from the Alameda at Juarez 70, Col. Centro (phone 5518-6632). Daily 7 am-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Palma 23, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5521-8815, or 5518-6632 for El Cardenal at Sheraton Centro Historico Hotel.
Tacos in all their sizzling, greasy glory. The specialty is tacos
al pastor—slabs of pork marinated in a spicy sauce and cooked on a rotisserie. Look for the giant hunk of meat cooking on a spit by the entrance. Daily for lunch and dinner. $. Various locations around town, including Campeche 362-A (at Cholula), Condesa, Mexico City. Phone 5211-5139. http://www.eltizoncito.com.mx.
Lively
son jarocho groups play traditional Veracruz music that keeps folks tapping their feet as heaping platters of
huachinango a la Veracruzana (red snapper, Veracruz-style) emerge from the kitchen. Squid, crab and lobster dishes, plus smooth-but-lethal
toritos—tequila mixed with exotic fruit juices—have made this a popular tourist destination. Monday-Friday 1 am-midnight, Saturday 9 am-midnight, Sunday 9 am-8 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Bahia de las Palmas 37, Col. Veronica Anzures, Mexico City. Phone 9112-7476. http://www.fondadelrecuerdo.com.
New Mexican cuisine from noted chef Patricia Quintana with pre-Hispanic influences, such as
huitlacoche (a mushroomlike corn fungus) sauce or a marinade for fish made from pulque, a fermented agave drink. Exotic specialties include venison cooked in banana leaf and lobster enchiladas. The decor is Aztec-inspired, and the atmosphere relaxed. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-midnight, Sunday 1-6 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Mazaryck 513, Local 3, Polanco, Mexico City. Phone 5280-1265 or 5280-1671.
This lively Mexican restaurant, formerly known as Agave Azul, offers interesting variations on traditional fare. Try the
pollo poesia, chicken stuffed with fruit and nuts and covered in plum sauce. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Prolongacion Bosques de Reforma 1303, Col. Bosques de las Lomas, Mexico City. Phone 5596-9691 or 5596-9681.
Bright, vibrant colors, pottery and paper decorations festoon this little piece of Oaxaca in the heart of Mexico City. The food is fiercely regional, with items to challenge the most adventurous diner. You can choose from delicious moles made with chilies and a long list of other ingredients that sometimes includes chocolate,
chapulines (fried grasshoppers) or the pounded beef called
tasajo. To wash it down, try Oaxaca's most famous firewater, mescal. Daily 9 am-8 pm. $$. Most major credit cards, but not American Express. Andalucia 241, Col. Alamos, Mexico City. Phone 5590-2761.
Situated among the patio restaurants that line the Plaza Jardin Centenario in central Coyoacan, Los Danzantes serves nouvelle Mexican cuisine with a strong Oaxacan influence. The decor and presentation are hip and design-conscious, the atmosphere and service comfortable and friendly. Most important, the food is outstanding. Try the
hoja santa appetizer, a leafy herb stuffed with Oaxacan and goat cheeses, and the
raviolis de huitlacoche stuffed with a mushroomlike corn fungus and topped with rich cream sauces of poblano chili and squash blossom. Plan ahead by ordering the quince empanada for dessert when you order your meal (it requires about 30 minutes of prep time). Sip some Los Danzantes artisan mescal, made using traditional methods at the distillery in Oaxaca. Monday-Wednesday 1:30-11 pm, Thursday and Friday 1:30 pm-midnight, Saturday and Sunday 1:30 pm-1 am, holidays 9:30 am-1 am. Reservations available. $$$. Most major credit cards. Plaza Jardin Centenario N-12, Col. Coyoacan, Mexico City. Phone 5658-6451, 5658-6054 or 5554-2896. http://www.losdanzantes.com.
One of the trendiest restaurants in the historic center, serving light new Mexican cuisine and featuring meats and fish blended with exotic herbs. The adventurous may try fried grasshoppers or maguey worms, traditional pre-Hispanic fare that now shows up on trendier menus. There is a second location on Presidente Masaryk 275 PA, Col. Polanco (phone 5282-3291). Tuesday-Saturday 1 pm-midnight, Sunday and Monday 1-9 pm. Reservations suggested for lunch. $$$. Most major credit cards. Xicotencatl 1, Plaza Manuel Tolsa on Calle Tacuba, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5510-0630. http://www.restaurantegirasoles.com.
Specializes in tamales and offers a broad variety. Takeout only. Daily 7:30 am-9 pm. $. Cash and most major credit cards, but not American Express. Emilio Castelar 227, Polanco, Mexico City. Phone 5281-5167.
This restaurant serves sushi and Japanese cuisine that will make travelers think they've been magically transported to Tokyo. Ordering can be a challenge—the menu is dozens of pages long with hundreds of options. But when in doubt, the
uzaku (river eel with marinated cucumber) and
yosenabe (a stewed mix of meat, vegetables and seafood that feeds several diners) are good options. Tuesday-Saturday 1-10 pm, Sunday 1-7 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Pestalozzi 1238, Col. Del Valle, Mexico City. Phone 5605-6317.
This elegant restaurant specializes in Hunan-style cuisine and is one of the best options for Chinese food in the city. Pretty decor—the dining area is surrounded by lush greenery. (A second location at Pedro Luis de Ogazon 102, Col. Guadalupe Inn, phone 5661-4288, is convenient for those staying in the south of the city.) Monday-Thursday 1:30-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 1:30 pm-midnight. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Paseo de la Reforma 2210 (on the corner of Ixtlan—about 5 mi/8 km west of the city center), Col. Lomas de Chapultepec, Mexico City. Phone 5596-5011.
A no-frills sushi and sake restaurant in Polanco that draws a lot of Japanese diners. Instead of the ultra-hip attitude found elsewhere in this upscale area, Murakami serves up exquisite sushi in a relaxed neighborhood setting. The
hamachi (yellowtail tuna) and
toro (tuna belly) were some of the best we've eaten in Mexico. A wide selection of sake and a full bar are also available, and regulars can keep a reserved bottle behind the bar. Monday-Saturday 1-10 pm, Sunday 1-7 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Torcuato Tasso 324, Col. Polanco (between Presidente Masaryk and Horacio), Mexico City. Phone 5254-4518.
Some of the best Japanese food in Mexico. You can eat in one of the private dining rooms, in the teppanyaki room (where your meal is cooked on a grill in front of you) or at the sushi bar. Second location at Montes Urales 535, Col. Lomas de Chapultepec (phone 5202-4711). Monday-Thursday 1-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 1-11:30 pm, Sunday 1-9 pm. Reservations highly recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Torres Adalid 14, Col. Del Valle, Mexico City. Phone 5536-9432.
Mexico is hardly known for its East Indian connection, but Tandoor exceeds expectations by serving fresh, authentic Indian and Pakistani dishes far, far from home. The chicken tandoori is a long-time favorite, and the goat vindaloo is hotter than all but the most fiery Mexican salsas. Monday-Saturday 1-11 pm, Sunday 1-8 pm. Reservations recommended on weekend nights and for large groups. $$. Most major credit cards. Copernico 156, Col. Nueva Anzures, Mexico City. Phone 5203-0045 or 5545-6863.
The atmosphere at this tasty French bistro is welcoming, and the service is outstanding. Located inside the Presidente InterContinental Hotel, which features a number of top-notch restaurants, Au Pied de Cochon is a replica of the Paris bistro that shares its name. The duck with marinated pears is exquisite, as is the seafood bouillabaisse. The restaurant boasts one of the most impressive wine cellars in Mexico and has been known to draw many international celebrities. Open daily 24 hours. Reservations recommended, particularly for dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Presidente InterContinental Hotel, Campos Eliseos 218, Col. Polanco, Mexico City. Phone 5327-7756.
A tiny bistro and deli whose menu, carefully prepared by the French owner, changes daily. Try the house-made pate or one of various cuts of beef. Daily for lunch and dinner (closes Sunday at 5:30 pm). Reservations not accepted. $$. Most major credit cards. Michoacan 10, Condesa, Mexico City. Phone 5584-2932.
Elegant French-Continental atmosphere in an old European-style mansion. The main dining room is a leafy covered garden. Specialties include tongue Veronique in a champagne and fresh grape sauce, as well as trout marinated in white wine. Lavish dessert menu. Monday-Saturday 1-11:30 pm, Sunday 1-6 pm. Reservations recommended. Jacket required for men. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Rio Sena 88, Col. Cuauhtemoc, Mexico City. Phone 5533-3390 or 5533-3440. http://www.lesmoustaches.com.mx.
| Latin American | Top  |
A cafe, bar and Argentine restaurant on a main pedestrian thoroughfare in Zona Rosa, Blah Blah offers great lunch deals and fare that's a cut above many of its neighbors. Try the
vacio, a tender cut of beef, for dinner or as part of the
comida special in the afternoon. Daily for lunch and dinner, till 1 am Thursday-Sunday. Reservations available. $$. Most major credit cards. Florencia 44 at Londres, Zona Rosa, Mexico City. Phone 5514-6753.
This restaurant, with locations both in Polanco and along Insurgentes near San Angel, specializes in Brazilian dishes and steaks—it boasts 20 different cuts. The Polanco branch is at Arquimedes 31, Col. Polanco, and the Insurgentes branch is at Insurgentes Sur 1674, Col. Florida. Daily for lunch and dinner. Late night Tuesday-Saturday. $$$. Most major credit cards. Phone 5280-2256 for Polanco; 5662-7470 for Insurgentes.
| Middle Eastern | Top |
A stately, if slightly worn, Middle Eastern palace of a restaurant in chic Polanco, this place was opened in 1982 by a Lebanese immigrant. He has since opened three other branches as well as an import grocery store adjacent to the original eatery. Lighting is dim, the elderly waiters are professional and helpful, and the food is terrific. Don't be ashamed to fill up on a variety of appetizers, particularly the falafel and the
shanklish (curded yogurt cheese dip). Live Middle Eastern music and dance Thursday-Saturday from 10 pm. Daily 1 pm–1 am (or whenever the music stops and the diners depart). Reservations available. $$$. Most major credit cards. Homero 424, Col. Polanco, Mexico City. Phone 5531-6940.
| Breakfast & Brunch | Top |
This restaurant, part of the Sanborn chain, is called the House of Tiles, and a single glance explains why: The spectacular, 400-year-old building is covered in striking blue tiles. The food is nothing special and the service can be slow, but the colonial interior, with high ceilings and murals gracing the stairwells, makes it a pleasant place to enjoy a leisurely breakfast. Try one of the many exotic juice combinations, such as orange and grapefruit with carrot, or papaya with lime. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. No reservations. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Madero 4, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5512-1331.
The Saturday and Sunday lunchtime buffets are relatively inexpensive, and the view is splendid at this restaurant on the rooftop of the Hotel Majestic, overlooking the enormous Zocalo. This is also an ideal spot for a drink later in the day. Go around sunset and watch soldiers lower the gigantic flag in the middle of the Zocalo. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Madero 73, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5521-8600.
| Cafes & Tearooms | Top |
This bustling cafe on the main drag in Polanco looks not unlike an upscale coffee-shop chain from north of the border, but it's actually a small Mexican chain with four shops around the Polanco area. Sit by the windows watching the passenger traffic of this ritzy neighborhood, and sip good coffee or tea or have a sandwich—try the grilled pita stuffed with veggies and cheese. Daily till 10 pm. Reservations not accepted. $. Most major credit cards. Temistocles 73 (at Presidente Masaryk), Col. Polanco, Mexico City. Phone 5280-4901.
This European-style cafe, though part of a small chain, is a respite from the fast-food chains that surround it on a pedestrian stretch of the Zona Rosa. Its "international cuisine" is better than average and its coffee is good, but primarily it's an excellent place to people-watch from the patio. The breakfast menu, in particular, is long and includes many varieties of egg dishes. Daily 7 am-11:30 pm. Reservations available. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Genova 61, Zona Rosa, Mexico City. Phone 5511-0722. http://www.konditori.com.mx.
A delightful Greek bakery and coffee-and-tea shop. Pick up a whole cake for your dinner hosts or just grab a slice to have with coffee or tea in the dim, cozy back room. Monday-Saturday 9 am-10 pm, Sunday 9 am-6 pm. $. Most major credit cards accepted, except American Express. Orizaba 87, Col. Roma, Mexico City. Phone 5208-7810.
A traditional lunchtime haunt of the country's political elite, set in a mansion built in 1915. A favorite is
filete chemita, beef tenderloin cooked in caramelized sugar. Daily 1-7 pm. Reservations not accepted. $$$. Most major credit cards. Londres 95 (between Genova and Niza), Zona Rosa, Mexico City. Phone 5207-4978.
A magnificent restaurant with a mix of Mexican and Mediterranean decor. You can dine next to a fountain in a lovely patio area. The menu has excellent international fare—some favorites are the quail, pheasant and the trout amandine. Live piano music. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-1 am, Sunday 1-6 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Insurgentes Sur 2465, San Angel, Mexico City. Phone 5550-0852.
This restaurant and cafe, located inside a leafy park in the city's south, is perfect for relaxing on a sunny afternoon. The menu is mostly international fare, but don't miss the delicious Mexican buffet on weekends. Daily except Monday 8 am-6 pm. $$. Credit cards accepted, but not American Express. Ave. San Fernando 765 (inside the Parque Ecologico Loreto and Pena Pobre, Col. Pena Pobre), Mexico City. Phone 5666-7205 or 5665-8411. http://www.laterrazaverde.com.mx.
Exquisite seafood served in simple, unassuming surroundings. The menu is not fancy, but the dishes are fresh and well-prepared. Try the
tuna sashimi tostadas, the signature appetizer featuring tuna, chipotle mayonnaise and sauteed leeks atop large, crunchy corn chips. This place attracts capacity crowds. Daily 1:30-6:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Durango 200, Col. Roma, Mexico City. Phone 5514-9217 or 5514-3169. http://www.contramar.com.mx.
| Steak Houses | Top |
A romantic dining spot overlooking a lake. A majestic fountain is part of the unique modern architecture. The menu is made up of contemporary Mexican cuisine, and specialties of the house include prime rib and grilled meats. Daily except Monday for brunch, lunch and dinner. Reservations required except Sunday. Coat and tie required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. On Lago Mayor in Chapultepec Park, Mexico City. Phone 5515-9586.
Located on Coyoacan's picturesque plaza, this steak house specializes in pasta dishes and Uruguayan-style beef cuts. Daily 1-11:30 pm. Reservations accepted. $$$. Most major credit cards. Jardin Centenario 14-C, Coyoacan, Mexico City. Phone 5659-0066.
| Other Options | Top |
Extremely popular with residents and tourists alike for its international food and its barbecue. Informal atmosphere, friendly service and good Mexican specialties. Try the barbecued ribs. Daily for lunch and dinner (closes at 6 pm Sunday). $$. Most major credit cards. Paseo de la Reforma 382 (near the Angel of Independence monument), Zona Rosa, Mexico City. Phone 5208-2150.
The atmosphere in this restaurant evokes old Portugal with mosaics, rustic wood decorations and the plaintive musical form called fado. The appetizers and soups are light and delicious, and the entrees include variations on cod, both salted and dried, as well as traditional
feijoada. There is a wide choice of ports to finish off your meal. Daily for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Emilio Castelar 111-A, Polanco, Mexico City. Phone 5281-0075.
