Compared with the hearty cooking style in Tokyo and the northeast of Japan, dishes in Osaka and the surrounding area tend to be lighter in color and taste (the term used is usukuchi). Although Japanese food uses far fewer spices than the cuisines in many neighboring Asian countries, that does not mean it is bland. Some of Osaka's tastiest treats are its local street foods. These delicacies include udon, white wheat noodles, often served with a thick curry sauce (or more traditionally with a hot savory soup); okonomiyaki, a thick, double-sided pancake cooked on a griddle, featuring pork or seafood with chopped cabbage, bean sprouts or noodles and often topped with an egg (it's far tastier than it sounds); and takoyaki, balls of batter containing small chunks of octopus, cooked crisp on the outside but still molten-soft inside.

It would be remiss not to mention two symbols of Osaka cuisine, the giant crab of Dotombori and the giant blowfish in Shinsekai (synonymous with the Kanidourahonten and Zubara restaurant chains). Looking for a quick and tasty snack while waiting for the train? Join the locals and tuck into a tasty, pork-filled Chinese dumpling from the 551 stand in front of any of the major stations.

Lunchtime is the best time to explore Osaka's numerous restaurants, as most offer set meals at reasonable rates. At Japanese restaurants, a useful term to know is teishoku, or "set plate." Although the contents of the meal will vary, usually it will comprise a small appetizer, a main dish served with rice and miso soup, and unlimited amounts of green tea to wash it down. Some places allow second helpings of rice, salad and soup.

There is no shortage of foreign cuisines in Osaka, and in recent years standards have risen. Many restaurants, most notably Italian and Indian, are owned and operated by people from the respective countries, ensuring the cuisine is authentic. Although budget operations serving American, French or Italian food are likely to be tailored to local tastes and expectations, there is a growing sophistication and appreciation for authentic flavors.

A convenient way to find a suitable restaurant is to head to a department store (or main shopping area). These dining areas are not like American-style food courts but are floors of restaurants with table waitstaff. For example, check out the sleek designs on the fifth floor of Herbis Plaza ENT or the basement restaurants in Hilton Plaza West in Umeda. In Namba, try Namba Parks, and in Tennoji, the teen crowd heads to the upper floors of Mio department store, while families go to the dining floors at Kintetsu.

The Japanese are big coffee drinkers. Since the arrival of Starbucks in 1995, the coffee experience has improved dramatically in Japan. Not only have cafes become warm and friendly places to meet friends, refresh and get some work done, but the coffee has improved. Besides Starbucks, there is Tully's and the Excelsior coffee shops.

Breakfast is usually eaten between 7 and 10 am (but take note that breakfast dining options are limited). Lunch starts from 11:30 am or noon and is likely to run until 2 or 2:30 pm. Most restaurants open for dinner at 6 pm, although they usually don't fill up until around 7 pm. In trendier parts of town, young people tend to dine out fairly late, especially on the weekends, and a growing number of places stay open until the wee hours. Tipping is neither expected nor practiced in Japan.