A meal at this contemporary bistro on busy Dame Street is a soothing experience. Service is excellent, the wine list extraordinary and the food inspired. Try the New England crab cakes with piquant mayonnaise, and the sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream. Daily for lunch and dinner, Sunday for brunch. Closed on holidays. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 69-70 Dame St., Dublin 2. Phone 01-670-8236. http://www.mermaid.ie.