We've heard it said that Ensenada, Mexico, is a city built around a bar. Although that's not true, Hussong's has enticed revelers to Ensenada since 1892—a date that's easy to believe once visitors see the legendary cantina's clapboard exterior and scarred wooden floors covered in sawdust. It's true that most tourist dollars are spent by U.S. partyers who drive south or arrive on cruise ships out of Southern California.
Another Ensenada attraction is the low-key and truly Mexican flavor of its reasonably priced restaurants, shops and hotels—all only 65 mi/105 km south of the U.S.-Mexico border.
Visitors soon find, however, that Ensenada isn't really a beach resort: The beach closest to Ensenada is a 15-minute drive away, and the most important occupant of the waterfront seawalk is a bustling fish market. But although downtown Ensenada doesn't have the pretty beach boardwalk of Puerto Vallarta or Mazatlan's "Golden Zone" of beaches and bars, Ensenada has all the earthy attraction and friendly people of an authentic Mexican town.
The lack of palm-lined coves and colonial architecture doesn't keep tourists away, however. Visitors to Ensenada can visit a cantina or sidewalk cafe and stroll through the market and adjoining seafood eateries. Tourists should stroll along Ensenada's main shopping district, Avenida Lopez Mateos, with its sidewalks, refurbished storefronts and ornate streetlamps. Visitors to Ensenada can also enjoy good wine from gold-green Guadalupe Valley outside the city.
Sights—Fabulous views of the harbor, city and one of the largest flags you'll ever see from El Mirador, the scenic viewpoint on Chapultepec Hill; water spouting up at La Bufadora.
Museums—The Museo del Puerto.
Memorable Meals—Fresh fish tacos at one of the seafood stands facing Ensenada's daily fish market; seafood at Casamar.
Late Night—Sway to the Bee Gees or rock to something more modern at Papas & Beer.
Walks—Strolling along La Ventana al Mar (Window to the Sea) park.
Especially for Kids—Epocas Family Amusement Center.
Downtown Ensenada faces Todos Santos Bay, which curves along the waterfront Boulevard Costero. Most of the restaurants, shops and businesses geared toward tourists are along the waterfront and Avenida Lopez Mateos (known as Calle Primera), one block inland. Ensenada's best beaches are about a 15-minute drive south of town.
The good fishing may have been what enticed the nomadic Yumano Indians, the first known visitors to the region, but they never established a permanent settlement. Portuguese explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo (exploring in the name of Spain) stopped briefly in the area around 1542, and in 1602, Sebastian Vizcaino named the bay Bahia de Todos Santos (All Saints' Bay). He dubbed the shore Ensenada, which means "cove." Ranching was the town's first industry, but mining took over after a gold strike in 1870 and, in fact, established Ensenada as a port. Once the mines were depleted, Ensenada drifted into obscurity until film idols bucking U.S. Prohibition started driving down to indulge themselves.
Another boost to the economy came when Southern Californians started building vacation homes around Ensenada. Nonetheless, the town has a thoroughly Mexican flavor, though it is less obvious when the cruise ships call. But even when business is booming, locals approach their work with a sense of calm, certain that everything absolutely necessary will get done eventually. Visitors soon slip into the same pace. Just relax and sing along with the mariachis.
Filibuster William Walker invaded Baja California in 1853, declaring it the Republic of Lower California, and made Ensenada his headquarters, living in the only house in town. He wanted to annex Lower California to the U.S. as a slave state but failed.
Following the end of the Civil War, a wave of U.S. adventurers immigrated to Ensenada hoping to make a fortune from the 1870 gold rush.
The Spanish commandant of Baja California purchased what was then Ensenada for two pesos in 1806. In 1887, it sold for 10,000 pesos.
"Poker Charlie," a local character of the 1890s, when Ensenada was still a frontier town, claimed to own the only kangaroo racehorse, a mix of coyote and burro.
Ensenada hosts one of Baja's largest Carnival celebrations, with parades, fiestas and dances. In general, the city's high season corresponds with U.S. holidays—expect crowds during the summer months as well as at spring break, Memorial Day, the Fourth of July and Labor Day.
