The currency is the Egyptian pound, which for the last several years has hovered at just under £E 6 to US$1. Most large hotels have bank desks, which are usually open 24 hours a day. Currency-exchange bureaus are located throughout the city and generally offer similar rates to those of banks. ATMs are widely used and can be found at most large hotels, in front of most banks and in some stand-alone locations. They accept credit cards (Visa and MasterCard) and debit cards on the Plus and Cirrus networks. Traveler's checks can be changed at banks (including at their desks in large hotels). Generally, banks are open Sunday-Thursday 8:30 am-2 pm. Many downtown branches are also open evenings for currency-exchange transactions only.

For tourist-related services, you can rely almost exclusively on credit cards—either paying directly with the card or using it to get Egyptian pounds from an ATM—though it's wise to carry some U.S. dollars or other hard currency as an emergency reserve. Note that hotels and other tourist-related services are heavily taxed, so always confirm whether the price you are quoted includes taxes.

Hotels, restaurants and cafes charge a 10% sales tax and 2% city tax, and add a 12% service charge.

On purchases you make in shops, the list price includes taxes.

In most restaurants, a 12% service charge is included in the bill. However, you're expected to add a little extra as well, depending on how satisfied you are with the service—that 12% does not necessarily go to the waiter. About 10% is expected at better restaurants.

Because wages in Egypt are quite low, baksheesh (tips) are a vital supplement to the income of workers. You're expected to tip a small amount (£E 1 minimum) to a porter or doorman. In general, you should always have small bills available to tip people who may do you a service. A little goes a long way—as well as a smile and a thank you. You may also hear requests for baksheesh from people who have performed no service. They are simply begging, and their requests may be politely turned down.

Cairo has a desert climate with hot, dry summers and mild winters. May-September temperatures are 90-105 F/32-40 C. January and February are generally the mildest months, with average temperatures peaking around 65 F/18 C and dropping to about 45 F/7 C. There is virtually no rainfall.

Spring and fall are the most pleasant times of the year. Summer is blazingly hot in Luxor and Aswan but much nicer on the northern coast and the Red Sea/Sinai areas. Winter is cooler than most visitors expect between Cairo and Alexandria.

The windy hamasin (sandstorm) season runs late March-early May. The sandstorms are not heavy enough to bury you, but they do raise the dust and turn the air a hazy, gray-beige color.

Cairo's residents are predominantly Muslim, and visitors will fit in better if they dress conservatively. For men this means long pants and long- or short-sleeved shirts (no tank tops). Women generally should not wear shorts or leave their shoulders uncovered. Good choices are loose-fitting, midlength cotton dresses and skirts or loose-fitting pants; tops can be short- or long-sleeved. The evenings in winter can be cool, so carry a jacket or sweater. Because Cairo's streets are dusty, closed shoes are better for walking. When visiting Muslim religious sites, modesty of dress is required, and both men and women will be expected to remove their shoes.

Almost all business centers in large hotels offer Internet and e-mail services. Internet cafes, however, are less expensive (£E 2-£E 15 per hour) and can be found on nearly every major street. Many of them are open 24 hours; otherwise, typical hours are 10 am-midnight. Wi-Fi access is fairly available, with coffee shops in the cosmopolitan areas of Cairo using free Wi-Fi to attract customers. The most reliable are the Cilantro and Beano's coffee-shop chains.

Post offices are generally open Saturday-Thursday 8 am-2 pm, but post-office personnel usually speak only Arabic, and postal service is random and unreliable. Mailing from an upscale hotel, or sending your package via Federal Express or DHL, is the best option. All upscale hotels have business centers where you can arrange to send mail. They'll generally send a messenger to one of the express-mail couriers.

Major English-language newspapers include Al-Ahram Weekly (semiofficial), The Middle East Times (weekly, independent) and The Egyptian Gazette (daily, very official). They're available at newsstands throughout the city. The International Herald Tribune, USA Today and The Wall Street Journal are available at major hotels and at some of the larger newsstands. Be aware that all overseas papers arrive at least one day late. The glossy monthly Egypt Today is a good source for restaurant and nightlife listings.

The Al-Ahram Weekly is a good source for comprehensive listings of upcoming events.

Pay phones are common on the streets—look for the yellow and green Menatel booths. Other phone booths are red or blue. Phone cards, which you purchase from most convenience stores, can be used for local and regional calls. It's also possible to use them for international calls, though better to seek out a business service center.

Cairo's telephone numbers have switched from seven to eight digits. Most now have a 2 in front of the original seven-digit number, although those in Giza take a 3, and some other areas take a 4.

Cell phones are widely used in Cairo—everyone from monied businessmen to cab drivers and the proprietor of the local corner store seems to have them. Mobinil and Vodacom are the main companies, and the network for both is very good, covering essentially everywhere in the city. Starter packs are available at the Vodacom and Mobinil shops that are found almost everywhere for about £E 60—when you buy one, be sure to ask staff to change the settings to English. Top-up cards are also widely available, sold at almost every shop.

Getting around in Cairo can be an adventure (or nightmare) for newcomers. Although new street signs have been posted in English and Arabic, house numbers are often not posted at all. You will generally have no problem getting help from passers-by, though.

Taxis are probably the best means of transportation for visitors because they're inexpensive and plentiful. The metro (subway) is easy to use, but it doesn't go to all parts of the city. (It's very good for getting to the Coptic Quarter in Old Cairo, however.) Buses are only for the very adventurous.

Because Cairo is overloaded with cars, traffic jams are frequent, and parking can be a chore. Walking around downtown can be both interesting and pleasant, but be alert: Pedestrians don't have the right-of-way in Cairo, and crossing the street can be a challenging, frustrating experience.

Cairo International Airport (CAI), located in Heliopolis, is about 15 mi/24 km from downtown (40 minutes to one hour during normal traffic conditions—allow more time during rush hour). Most visitors will arrive and depart from Terminal 2 (the new airport), which is strictly for international flights. Terminal 1 (the old airport) services all Egyptair flights and is further divided into three halls, each about two to three minutes away from each other by car. A third terminal is under construction and due to be completed in early 2008. Always reconfirm with your travel agent which terminal your flight will be using for departure. There is shuttle service between terminals 1 and 2, although it may not be moving quickly or at all. Phone 02-2291-4266, 02-2265-5000 or 02-2265-2222. http://www.cairo-airport.com.

On arrival, just before you reach the passport control section, you will pass by a gauntlet of bank representatives offering to change currency and sell you a visa (citizens of the U.S., Canada and many western European countries can obtain a visa at the airport—the price is about £E 85). They are legitimate. The exchange rate is what is offered at the bank, and if you need a visa, you'll get a large passport-page-sized stamp that should be presented to the customs official together with your passport.

Connecting Transportation

Best way:

The quickest, most convenient way into the city is by taxi. There aren't any taxi stands, but don't worry—the cabdrivers will rush over to you. The fare to downtown from the airport ranges £E 40-£E 60. Be prepared to bargain and settle on a fare before getting into the cab.

Other options:

An air-conditioned Airport Express bus leaves every 20 minutes from Terminal 2 and Terminal 1, Hall 1. It travels to Tahrir Square and Mena House Oberoi Hotel (in Giza, near the pyramids). The price for both destinations is £E 2 (local currency only). Hotels near the airport operate courtesy vans; pickup arrangements must be made prior to arrival. Rental car companies have booths at both terminals, but we don't recommend cars for first-time visitors.

Most buses arrive at and depart from Turgoman Garage, west of Ramses Square in the Bulaq neighborhood. Bus tickets are best purchased at least a day in advance. Departure times change frequently, so be sure you arrive at the station early and check the schedules.

The main bus companies are Super Jet, East Delta and West Delta. Ask at your hotel for help with reservations.

We don't recommend getting behind the wheel in Cairo. But if you must have a car, be aware that there are really only two rules: Whoever is in front has the right-of-way, and keep honking the horn. (Cairo may be the loudest city in the world on the basis of its car horns alone.) When driving, try not to worry too much about what's happening behind you—concentrate instead on not getting side-swiped or crushed in the lane-free maelstrom. (Streets built for four lanes each way often have seven lines of vehicles going each way.) Be prepared for numerous scrapes, dents and fender-benders. Most motorists won't consider this kind of damage serious enough to argue over or even stop for. At night, be alert for cars moving without their lights on.

Traffic lights and signs exist at major intersections all over the city, but traffic is still directed by police in most central areas. Signs on the road appear in kilometers. Although you'll rarely have the opportunity to reach the speed limit in the city, speeding tickets are common in outlying areas and involve immediate confiscation of your license.

The government-run subway, called the metro, is fast and relatively clean. The first car (and sometimes the first two) of each train is reserved for women. Visitors will find the metro especially useful for traveling between Ramses Station, Tahrir Square and Old Cairo. The fare for all city destinations is £E 0.90. Purchase tickets at booths inside the stations; do not expect to receive change if you don't have the exact fare. English-language route information is available in every station and on most trains.

Most tourists do not use local buses because negotiating a route involves some Arabic; moreover, the buses are intimidating because of their hair-raising boarding procedures (generally involving hopping on and off while the bus is still moving) and overcrowded conditions. If you do brave the difficulties, expect to pay between £E 0.25 and £E 1 once you're on board; exact change is not necessary. Good luck in finding any printed schedules: It's best to ask an English-speaking local or at a tourist information kiosk (in Ramses Station, for example).

Taxis are easily recognized by their black-and-white paint scheme, although there are now also a few bright yellow private cabs. You can hail a taxi by waving your arm and shouting "Tax!" (that's how Egyptians pronounce the word). Have the destination name written in Arabic—a few cabdrivers speak some English, but an Arabic name will help avoid confusion. And always carry a card with your hotel's name and address printed in Arabic—ask for one when you check in.

The yellow private cabs have meters, which you should request that the driver use—and agree with him at the outset that the fare you pay will be that shown on the meter. Otherwise, for the standard black-and-white cabs, meters are almost never used. Fares are based on a rough estimate of distance and time traveled. Some typical fares to use as a guide: between downtown and Mohandiseen, £E 5-£E 10; between downtown and the pyramids, £E 20-£E 40. Ask someone at your hotel how much the fare to your destination should be, and bargain and settle on a price before you get into the cab. Taxis parked outside upscale hotels and tourist sites usually insist on exorbitant fares. Walk down the street a bit and then hail a taxi. When you reach your destination, step out of the cab and then hand the driver the fare. Expect that taxi drivers will ask for higher fares as the night goes along.

If you're making a lot of stops or traveling all over the city, it may be more convenient to hire a taxi by the hour. Most drivers are willing to do this. The price is usually £E 15 per hour within the city, £E20 per hour outside the city. Always negotiate the fare first, which doesn't include the expected tip.

Another option is a limousine service. These air-conditioned cars (Mercedes or Peugeots) are available at most large hotels. Rates are about double those for taxis, but service is usually good, and drivers speak English. Fares are fixed, but they change frequently. Always settle on a price in advance.

The Egyptian State Railway connects Cairo to Alexandria in the north and to Luxor and Aswan in the south. Trains run from Ramses Station at Ramses Square. The easiest way to obtain tickets is to have your hotel arrange them for you. Once at the station, a porter will take your bags from the curb to the train for a tip—he will get you to the right train, as well. Be sure to request one of the express trains.

Sleeper Train

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The Abela Sleeping Train offers a comfortable overnight service from Cairo to Luxor (about nine hours) and on to Aswan (about 12 hours). Single and double accommodations. Dinner is served in your cabin. The train also has a club car. Basic toilet facilities are at one end of each car. Porters at the station and train attendants are very helpful. Tickets can be purchased by phone—the tickets will be delivered to you—or you can have your hotel make arrangements for you. Ramses Station, Ramses Square, Cairo. Phone 02-2574-9474. http://www.sleepingtrains.com.

Egyptian Tourist Authority

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The ETA maintains tourist information offices at the airport, in the arrival halls of both terminals. Brochures are available, but the office staff generally is not very useful. The downtown office isn't much better. Daily 9 am-8 pm (9 am-4 pm during Ramadan). 5 Adly St. (half a block west of Ezbekiya Gardens), Cairo. Phone 02-2391-3454. http://www.egypt.travel.