The Mexican peso (officially abbreviated MXN) has been fairly stable for a number of years, generally hovering around 11 pesos to the U.S. dollar. There are plenty of ATMs around the city, and they accept major bank cards and credit cards if you obtain a PIN prior to travel. Look for machines with Cirrus, Plus, MasterCard and Visa signs. They dispense pesos at the going rate of exchange. Your financial institution might charge a small ATM fee (likely M$30), but you avoid paying the larger commissions charged by the casas de cambio. However, don't rely on just one bank or credit card to obtain cash. Sometimes a card inexplicably won't work in an ATM, but don't panic—it will likely work in the next one. When using an ATM, however, use common sense: Don't do so late at night or in deserted areas. If the machine has been noticeably tampered with (check the slot in which you insert your card), or if people are loitering near the ATM, use a different one. Another useful tip is to use an ATM only while the bank is open—that way, if it swallows your card, you can immediately alert the staff and probably get the card back quickly.

Casas de cambio usually give you a better deal than banks for large amounts, but only for wire transfers and not on currency transactions. Casas de cambio are all over the city but are concentrated around the major hotels and in the Zona Rosa. Banks are generally open Monday-Friday 9 am until 4 or 5 pm. Some branches open on Saturday until 2 pm. Branches at the airport are open daily but mainly as money-exchange bureaus.

Note that many establishments—inexpensive and midrange restaurants, for instance, and many retail stores—don't accept credit cards. Never assume that you can pay with your credit card; verify ahead of time.

The sales tax in Mexico, known as IVA, is 15%. Hotels charge an additional 2%, but both are included in quoted prices unless otherwise stated. Visitors can receive a full refund of the IVA on purchases of at least M$1,200 by presenting receipts from creditable merchants at the airport at special kiosks.

A 10%-15% tip at restaurants is usual for good service—most people don't bother to figure out the pretax total so they end up tipping 10%-15% of the entire bill, though either way of calculating is fine. Hotel porters should receive about M$15 per person, although airport porters expect a little more. Tipping a taxi driver is not customary in Mexico, but an especially helpful driver could be given a small tip. Hotel housekeepers get M$1-$2 a night.

Because of its altitude (7,350 ft/2,240 m), Mexico City doesn't usually get blisteringly hot. The rainy season is June-October. The afternoon rain showers then can be fierce, leaving the streets flooded for a few hours. Smog is the worst in winter (December-February), when you may see some frost. Summers are warm, but not oppressively so. We think the best time to visit is during Easter week and the Christmas holidays (the week before Christmas and the two weeks after). Many residents flee to Mexico's beaches at that time, making the city seem surrealistically calm and enjoyable. (As a result, there's also less smog during those three weeks.) Always take along a sweater and a light jacket.

Many who visit Mexico City dress as if they were at a resort, in shorts and skimpy clothing. This certainly marks you as a tourist, because none of the locals will be dressed in a similar manner. Shorts are not considered appropriate for men or women. Remember, too, that the weather is not tropical—though it gets warm at midday, it's cool at night year-round. When attending business meetings or going out for business-related evening dining or entertainment, men should wear suits or sports jackets and ties, and women should wear dresses or pantsuits.

Most hotels offer Internet access in their business centers, and Internet cafes are plentiful throughout the city. Internet cafes generally consist of a bank of computers (rather than necessarily being a cafe, as such) and are usually inexpensive—about M$10-$30 per hour. Wi-Fi hot spots are steadily increasing in number—look for signs that designate a red inalhambrica (wireless network). You can find them in many nicer hotels, as well as in cafes, some restaurant chains and the airport.

The bookstore chain Librerias Ghandi offers free Wi-Fi access at two of its Mexico City stores: near San Angel at Miguel Angel de Quevedo 134, Col. Chimalistac; and at the branch located at Ave. de las Palmas 840, Col. Lomas de Chapultepec. The Holiday Inn Zocalo (located on the Zocalo at Avenida 5 de Mayo, Col. Centro) also offers free wireless Internet to anyone with a room.

Using the postal system is fine for letters and postcards, although it can take anywhere from a week to a month for delivery outside of Mexico. It's not a good idea to send packages abroad (or to receive them from abroad) through the government mail service: The red tape can be exasperating when the packages are being checked by Mexican customs officials. It's much better to use a private package service that has its own customs broker. Even then, be prepared to face possible delays and pay extra taxes to customs.

Servicio Postal Mexicano

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The nationwide government-run postal service has branches throughout the city. The most convenient branch, and an architectural treat in itself, is the main office downtown. Stamps can be bought there, at branches or at a stamp machine in the international airport. Monday-Friday 8 am-8 pm, Saturday and Sunday 8 am-4 pm. At the corner of Plaza Tacuba and Lazaro Cardenas, Mexico City.

The English-language daily called The News has been resurrected, but it's hard to find if you don't have a subscription. Some big hotels, Sanborn's and the airport supposedly carry it, but we found it challenging to unearth one at these places.

Visitors should look for a free monthly magazine in English called Inside Mexico (http://www.insidemex.com). It is distributed in a number of areas frequented by tourists and has listings, as well as dining and shopping tips. More listings can be found in Tiempo Libre (the entire publication is in Spanish, but it's useful for dates and venues even if you can't read the reviews).

The International Herald Tribune, the Wall Street Journal and the New York Times are flown in daily but may arrive late. Many U.S. magazines are available at Sanborn's department stores around the city. There are no newspaper vending machines in Mexico City, but there are many newsagent kiosks.

If you're calling Mexico from outside the country, first dial your country's international access code, followed by Mexico's country code, 52, and then Mexico City's city code, 55. If you're calling Mexico City from another part of Mexico, dial 01 and then 55, followed by the local number. To call the U.S. or Canada from within Mexico, dial 001 before the area code and local number.

To use most pay phones, you'll need a phone card, and it's essential to purchase one if you plan to call taxi dispatch services. You can buy cards (which will say Ladatel) at street kiosks or in hotel gift shops. They are available in denominations of M$30, M$50 and M$100.

Cell phone coverage in Mexico City and outlying areas is generally good. Some visitors may even find they can still receive calls on mobile phones from their home countries—but it's a good idea to consult your company's roaming fees before talking for too long, and you may need a special code for calling from Mexico.

Overall, taxis are the most efficient way to get around, but never forget this extremely important rule: Do not hail a taxi from the street or take a cab from a taxi stand. Violent assaults on tourists and businesspeople have occurred in taxis. It's best to have your hotel's door attendant arrange for a cab or to engage a car and driver for several hours—most hotels can arrange this.

Depending upon where you are and where you're going, the metro, or subway, can be a good and fast way to get around. Pick up a metro map—the system is huge, and can be far faster during times of heavy traffic. It's inexpensive, but be aware that pickpockets sometimes take advantage of crowded cars and stations. Microbuses can also be good options, particularly if you're headed down long avenues, such as Reforma and Insurgentes, and if you know where you want to get off. And don't forget about walking, at least in daylight hours, if the weather is good.

Another transportation mode is the Metrobus, a designated-lane articulated bus system that has fixed stops. The Metrobus currently runs up and down Insurgentes Avenue, and the construction of more lines is under way. Like the Metro, however, it can get uncomfortably packed during peak hours. To use the Metrobus, users buy a rechargable card for M$11, which is then swiped across a sensor at the station entrance.

Most international flights arrive at Juarez International Airport (MEX), in the eastern part of the city. Note that, especially for domestic travel within Mexico, an increasing number of travelers and airlines are using the Toluca airport (TLC). Toluca is about 45 mi/75 km west of Mexico City, however; if someone in Mexico City refers to "the airport," it's safe to assume they're referring to MEX. Travel time by car or taxi to major hotels is about a half-hour or less, except during the morning and evening rush hours, when it can take up to an hour or more.

Major expansion was marked by the opening of a new Aeromexico terminal called T-2, which is slowly adding other airlines and absorbing some of the millions of passengers flying through. The challenge, however, is if you don't fly Aeromexico into the airport and have a connecting flight on it because it is located a couple miles/kilometers from the main terminal. You must either take a van for a M$5 fare between terminals or hop aboard a tram. Once at the terminal, check-in counters are easy to get to on the top floor while baggage claim is directly below on the ground floor. A small gallery of pre-Hispanic artifacts from Mexican archaeological zones is an engaging pastime before passing through security. Immigration has been moved closer to the international arrivals area in the main terminal and upgraded with more officials to handle tourists, so lines have been cut considerably.

Recent renovations to the airport have spruced it up, but the gates and ticket counters in the main terminal are still spread out and not always well-marked, so it's best to arrive early before flying out of MEX. Phone 5571-3600 or 5784-0471. http://www.asa.gob.mx.

Connecting Transportation

Best way

Take an official Transportacion Terrestre taxi: Purchase a ticket from the booth inside the arrivals area of the Aeromexico terminal, next to the baggage-claim area, or in the main terminal, walk a few paces more to the right outside the arrivals area. A ticket to most downtown areas cost about M$180. You won't mistake the yellow-and-white official taxis. These are the only ones permitted to park outside the airport exit.

Other options

Hotel courtesy vans and rental cars are available. However, be aware that cars rented at the airport are subject to a special airport tax, so it's often cheaper to rent a car somewhere else. The metro has a station within easy walking distance from baggage claim, but take it into the city center only if you have very little luggage.

Bus lines connect the city to all parts of the country. New buses offer such amenities as movies, soft drinks and clean baths. In terms of comfort, executive-class buses put commercial airplanes to shame.

The bus terminals include Terminal Central del Norte, which serves northern destinations, including Queretaro, Guanajuato, Zacatecas and border states, as well as Guadalajara (to the northwest); Terminal Central del Poniente, also known as Central Observatorio, serves destinations to the west such as Toluca and Michoacan, and offers some departures to Guadalajara; Terminal Central del Sur serves southern destinations, including Cuernavaca, Acapulco and Taxco; and Terminal del Oriente, also known as Terminal Tapo, serves Oaxaca, Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, Veracruz and the Yucatan peninsula.

For most bus lines, reservations can be made in advance or can be purchased over the phone with a credit card. Some travel agents also sell bus tickets. Book early on holiday weekends, when tickets sell out extremely quickly.

Ticket Bus

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This ticket reseller for some, although not all, of the major lines can be helpful. Additional locations in the city. Insurgentes Sur 1222, Col. Del Valle, Mexico City. Phone 5133-2424. http://www.ticketbus.com.mx.

If you're going to stay within the city, it's generally better to hire a taxi by the hour than to rent a car. Driving into Mexico City can be confusing because the highways are not well-marked and local traffic can be hectic and aggressive. Few drivers pay attention to the speed limits, even when the limits are posted. If you're going to take a day trip outside the city, we recommend joining a tour bus with a guide rather than driving yourself. It will give you more time to look at the scenery.

Vehicles are driven on the right side of the road. In general, speed limits on highways range from 45 mph/70 kph to 70 mph/110 kph. Traffic police in the city are generally less interested in speeders than in cars being driven illegally on the Day Without a Car. (To decrease pollution, drivers must leave their cars home one day—sometimes two days—each week, as determined by license-plate numbers. Most rental cars are exempt.) Cars with foreign plates are held to the strictest standards, including the Day Without a Car restrictions, especially by police looking for a bribe.

Buses

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The bus system in Mexico City has the advantage of being inexpensive and ubiquitous. You can get almost anywhere in the city by bus for M$2.50-$5, and you'll rarely have to wait more than 10 minutes. It has the disadvantage, however, of being chaotic. Even where signposted, official stops are not always recognized nor are official routes followed. Particularly bad are the smaller green-and-white microbuses known as peseros, whose wild-eyed drivers like to imagine they are at the wheel of a Formula 1 car. More tranquil are the larger electric buses that ply the main thoroughfares, although these are less common. Because the system can be confusing, we don't recommend taking complicated journeys by bus. On the other hand, nothing could be faster and more efficient for moving up and down Reforma Avenue between Chapultepec Park and the center.

Subways

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Mexico City's metro is an excellent system: generally well-run, on time and inexpensive, although cleanliness has suffered somewhat in recent years. Tickets can be bought at the booths in each station. A small brochure showing the routes and the stations can be obtained at the city tourism office in Zona Rosa. They have put up maps in most stations, but a pocket map can be a big help on a crowded metro when you are trying to decide where to get off. There are women-only cars at the front on some lines, put in place to protect women from unwelcome groping, but because entrance is not restricted to women at all stations their usefulness is somewhat limited. Be careful with your wallet during rush hour—pickpocketing and purse snatchings do occur. The metro runs Monday-Friday 5 am-midnight, Saturday 6 am-midnight, Sunday and holidays 7 am-midnight. The fare is M$2. Phone 5627-4741 or 5627-5051 (Spanish only).

Though not as common as several years ago, violent assaults involving passengers in taxi cabs are still known to occur. Under no circumstances should you hail a cab from the street or a taxi stand. This even includes cabs that are parked in front of such well-touristed places as the Palacio de Bellas Artes and in front of hotels, restaurants and nightclubs. (Avoid Volkswagen "bug" taxis altogether.) Have your hotel concierge or restaurant call a cab from a reputable company, one it regularly deals with. Because these cabs are in high demand, some waiting time may be required, but it's critical that you wait. You can also ask a cab driver to wait for you outside an establishment for an additional cost.

Sometimes the hotel cab companies will surprise you by charging for a supposedly bilingual driver whose English is actually very limited. Ask the price beforehand. You may be able to negotiate a lower one before starting off, although dispatch taxis usually have a fixed tariff.

Many people choose to hire their own car and driver for the day or for an evening—most hotels can arrange this. This isn't prohibitively expensive (about M$150-$300 per hour, depending on your starting point, number in your party and the type of car), and we think it is the wisest, safest choice.

City Tourist Information

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Rather terse information about the city is provided at a small information kiosk at the southwest corner of Paseo de la Reforma and Florencia, across from the Angel of Independence monument. Daily 8 am-2 pm and 3-6 pm. No phone.

Secretaria de Turismo

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The national tourist-information office. Walk in for information and maps. Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm. Masaryk 172, Polanco, Mexico City. Phone 5089-7500 (24-hour telephone service).