ATMs are located inside banks and major terminals, such as Penn Station, Port Authority Bus Terminal and Grand Central Terminal. They are not in subway stations. Always be alert when retrieving money from a cash machine in the city; try to use only those in well-lit, populated areas or in the secure lobby of a bank (banks are especially plentiful in Manhattan).

Banking hours are generally Monday-Friday 9 am-4 pm, but some banks open at 8 or 8:30 am and close at 5:30 or 6 pm. Some banks are open Saturday morning and even Sunday.

Sales tax is 8.25%. (Some weeks are tax-free, when some clothing and shoes are not taxed. Check with the New York Convention and Visitors Bureau for dates.) You will pay an additional 5% tax plus US$2 a night for your hotel room.

The appropriate tip in restaurants is generally double the tax, about 17% to 20%. You should also make sure you tip taxi drivers and hotel porters.

Songwriters have idealized New York in spring and autumn for a reason—the city is most beautiful then. If you visit April-June, you'll find comfortable humidity. Temperatures in April range from a low of 36 F/3 C to a high of 54 F/12 C. By June, expect daytime highs of 75 F/24 C and cool nights of 56 F/12 C. In September and October, the clear days will be comfortable in the 60-70 F/15-29 C range, with nights demanding a warm jacket or sweater. Winter can be cold and bitter in New York, and the damp wind cuts to the bone. But New York is magical and quiet after a heavy snow (until it all turns to dirty slush). In general, extremes of temperature and humidity can make winter and summer the least dependable times to visit—and waiting on the platforms for subways can be unbearable.

As with all things New York, appropriate dress covers the full gamut. Bear in mind that at most public venues—Broadway theaters, concerts, etc.—one encounters every kind of fashion, from T-shirts to tuxedos. "Business casual," the standard of many restaurants and entertainment venues, means no sneakers, no shorts or jeans, and no shirts without sleeves (for men). You may want to inquire in advance. "If I'm paying this much I can wear what I want" doesn't work in New York, unless you're a celebrity with a publicist in tow.

In general, let the weather and your own comfort be your guide. This will dictate taking your sturdiest and most comfortable pair of shoes. More than any other major U.S. city, New York is a town in which walking is often the most efficient mode of transportation. You will be walking much more than you expect so comfortable shoes are essential.

Summertime can be extremely hot and humid, dictating light, breathable clothing. For sightseeing, shorts are certainly OK (although you'll stand out as a tourist), and for summer evenings, casual or semiformal summer wear is acceptable. In spring or fall, take an extra sweater and an umbrella. Winters can be as cold as summers are hot, and the winds are often strong and chilly.

As you might expect, business attire in New York is both formal and fashionable. Since walking is the best means of transportation in the city, people usually wear comfortable shoes.

Internet access is available throughout the city at public libraries, Internet cafes and copy shops. Rates vary significantly. Some of the cheapest commercial rates we've found are in small shops just east of Fifth Avenue, between 30th and 33rd streets. The shops usually have high-speed access and charge much less per page printed than do most copy shops.

easyInternetCafe has an outlet on 42nd Street, between Seventh and Eighth avenues, and it's pretty cheap. FedEx/Kinko's has many outlets throughout the city; it also has the highest rates in town. It is, however, open 24 hours and offers many services in addition to Internet access.

Those with the requisite technology on their laptop or PDA may want to check out one of the free, public, wireless networks located in such places as Bryant Park or Central Park, local coffee shops and many hotels. A network map of those locations can be found on the Internet: http://www.nycwireless.net.

U.S. Post Office

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The main U.S. Post Office is open 24 hours (and is known to have a line of customers at all hours of the day). Try to avoid the rush 5-7 pm. Some special services, including registered and certified mail, are offered only until midnight. Cutoff time for express-mail next-day delivery depends on destination. You must deposit regular mail by 7 pm for same-day postmark. The other U.S. Post Offices, scattered throughout the city, are open Monday-Friday 9 am-5:30 pm and are easily accessible. Some branches may have Saturday hours. The government-issue blue mailboxes, including boxes for express mail, stand at many intersections, especially in Midtown Manhattan. The main post office covers an entire block, across the street from Madison Square Garden-Penn Station. 441 Eighth Ave., at 33rd Street (subway line 1, 2, 3, A, C or E to 34th Street), New York City. Phone 212-330-3002. Toll-free 800-275-8777. http://www.usps.gov.

The New York Times and The Wall Street Journal are available everywhere. The daily tabloids—New York Newsday (respectable), The New York Daily News (local and national news) and The New York Post (sensational local news, outrageously tacky headlines and an excellent sports section)—are also available everywhere. The Village Voice, an alternative weekly paper covering politics and the arts, has vast entertainment listings. It's published on Wednesday and is available at most newsstands, now free in Manhattan. Pick up a Voice at your local deli to find clubs to attend and restaurants to try. The New York Press is the Voice's competition. It can be found all over the city and is also free. You will often have several free daily newspapers placed in your hands when entering or leaving the subway.

New York magazine is a weekly with articles on local trends and events plus entertainment and restaurant listings. The New Yorker, more of a national than a local magazine, has complete weekly listings of local cultural happenings and stories of local interest. Time Out New York, newer than the others, has extensive listings covering everything from where to tango to the best places for Cambodian food. Most newsstands carry all three magazines.

Less known but also impressive are Paper and Gotham magazines. These slick glossies—all competitors—focus on New York's avant-garde music, nightlife and arts action, as well as on interesting little-known shops and restaurants. Their event listings are more limited than those of the weeklies, but the articles are more involved and perhaps better capture the flavor of the city's cultural offerings.

Two free entertainment guides are found in most hotels: Guest Informant and Where. Informant contains information on shopping, dining and sightseeing. Where has more comprehensive information regarding shopping, entertainment, dining, art and antiques. The best entertainment guides, however, are in The New York Times (especially the Weekend section on Friday and the Arts & Leisure section on Sunday), The Village Voice and Time Out New York.

When making phone calls within New York City, you must dial 1 and the area code before all local numbers. Long-distance charges may apply if you make a call to another borough of the city—from Manhattan to Brooklyn, for example. Pay phones are available—even on subway platforms—and usually take coins and sometimes credit cards.

Most cell phones do not work in the subway or on subway platforms. On the streets and in most office buildings, hotels and other venues, service is generally excellent. Some businesses, such as restaurants, frown on cell-phone use and will ask their patrons to go outside. Be aware that using a cell phone inside a New York City theater is illegal.

There are three major airports in the metropolitan area: La Guardia Airport, John F. Kennedy International Airport and Newark International Airport. A fourth, MacArthur Airport on Long Island, is sometimes used by visitors to New York, but it's quite a distance from the city. Allow plenty of time before your flight—these are busy, congested airports in the best of times.

You won't need a car—in fact, a car will be more hindrance than help, as parking is expensive and in short supply. This is a mass-transit city, and most of it has resumed normal operations since the attacks on the World Trade Center on 11 September 2001. You can find an updated list of allowed carry-on items on the Transportation Security Administration's Web site: http://www.tsa.gov/311/index.shtm.

Taxis are easy to hail and reasonably affordable, especially if there's more than one person in your party. A ride from Midtown to Greenwich Village, for instance, runs in the neighborhood of US$10—depending on traffic, of course.

Our favorite way to travel in New York, though, is by foot. As you make your way, be alert for cars, taxis and even buses running red lights. Also, cabs will make left or right turns at an intersection without a thought for the pedestrians crossing with the green light. The best strategy is to walk purposefully and don't hesitate when you cross a street.

Port Authority Bus Terminal

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Nearly all long-distance bus service from New York City departs the Port Authority Bus Terminal. Greyhound, Trailways, Olympia Trails and Peter Pan (incorporating Bonanza) are among the bus companies that offer service to and from New York. 42nd Street and Eighth Avenue, New York City. Phone 212-564-8484 for Port Authority bus information. http://www.ny.com/transportation/port_authority.html.

Unless you are planning a day trip out of town, there is absolutely no reason to take a car into New York City, particularly Manhattan. There are restrictions on single-passenger vehicles entering Manhattan, which are barred at some bridges and tunnels Monday-Friday 6-10 am. Vehicles are also subject to checks at many entry points.

The major East Coast interstate highway is Interstate 95. From New England, take I-95 South all the way into the Bronx, then take the Bruckner Expressway to the Triborough Bridge (US$4 toll) and continue into Manhattan via the FDR (or East Side) Drive. From New Jersey and the south, take the New Jersey Turnpike to the Lincoln Tunnel (US$6), which will take you straight into Midtown Manhattan at 42nd Street. You can also travel over the George Washington Bridge (US$6) and enter Manhattan via the West Side Highway (also known as the Henry Hudson Parkway).

Many hotels offer packages including parking, and it is worth asking about specials and checking for Internet deals. However, be aware that garage rates are often very high—more than US$30 per day, particularly in Midtown, and some garages may refuse very expensive or large vehicles. Even with hotel discounts, these rates will still be much more expensive than anywhere else in the country. With patience, street parking can be found in almost any area of New York, though it is much more difficult in Midtown. Be aware of daily and weekly street-cleaning schedules, which are posted on signs. Cars must be moved during these hours, which are different for every block.

New York Water Taxi (NYWT)

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If you don't feel like hailing a cab and would rather opt for a scenic, relaxed method of transportation, try New York Water Taxi. Located beside New York Harbor, NYWT works as a great means of transportation to several spots in Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens. Fares are about US$6 per ride (depending on where you board) and can be bought in economical passes for a day, week or month. Phone 212-742-1969. http://www.nywatertaxi.com.

Staten Island Ferry

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Crosses Upper New York Bay from the southern tip of Manhattan to St. George on Staten Island. The schedule is on the Web site, http://www.siferry.com. For information on updates or changes see http://www.nyc.gov/dot or dial 311, the city information line. It departs Monday-Friday approximately every 20 or 30 minutes 6:30 am-12:30 am, hourly 12:30-6:30 am; Saturday and Sunday every 30 minutes noon-7:30 pm, hourly 7:30 pm-noon. Free. The Manhattan terminal is at the southernmost tip of Manhattan, known as South Ferry (it's next to Battery Park—take subway line 1 and sit in one of the first five cars of the train), New York City.

The Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA) operates the bus and subway systems in New York as well as several commuter railways. In general, we've found that subways are the best means of moving north-south in Manhattan (e.g., from uptown to downtown, and vice versa), and buses are best for moving east-west (e.g., from the West Side to the East Side and vice versa). Subways are also by far the best means of getting to other city boroughs, such as Brooklyn and Queens.

Purchase a MetroCard to use the buses and subways (you swipe it through a card reader on the bus or at the subway turnstiles). The card is available as a pay-per-ride card in selected dollar and ride amounts or as a card that allows unlimited rides in a certain time period. MetroCards can be purchased at many subway stations and in shops and newsstands that display the MetroCard logo. (Ask at your hotel for the closest place to purchase a MetroCard.) You can no longer use tokens on subways and buses.

For more information, including interactive maps of the bus and subway routes, visit http://www.mta.info.

Subway—The cheapest and usually the most efficient means of getting around. Though lots of movies have portrayed New York's subway as the scene of crime and danger, it's generally safe, assuming you exercise common sense. Today nearly all subway cars are made of gleaming stainless steel, and the air-conditioning usually works, though the platforms are extremely hot and uncomfortable in the summer. Plenty of people ride the subway at night, but it's safer during the day and early evening. If you ride at night, wait for the train in the designated off-hours waiting area (usually in the middle of the platform) and board a car that has other riders.

The system can be a bit confusing because of the large number of lines and trains. Pick up a copy of MTA's The Map (available at subway stations and many hotels), which outlines the subway routes. There are also maps posted in the subway stations and in all train cars. The trains are identified with numbers or letters. Signs outside the stations indicate which trains stop there. You will also encounter express and local trains: The express trains stop only at selected stops (identified on The Map with white circles) rather than at every station on the line.

Make sure the train you take is headed in the proper direction: In Manhattan, where the majority of lines run north-south, the platforms are usually labeled as Uptown (for northbound trains) or Downtown (southbound). Others may read Brooklyn or Queens. At some stations, a street entrance may take you only to one of the two platforms. In those cases, you often have to go back up to the ground level, cross the street and locate the other entrance. Subways operate 24 hours a day. Tokens are no longer used; entrance is only by MetroCards. Purchase MetroCards at subway stations, newsstands and other locations.

Watch for frequent service changes, particularly on the weekends. These are posted on the MTA's Web site and on signs in all stations. However, changes can be confusing and often lead to longer-than-expected travel times, particularly if you are traveling to or from Brooklyn or Queens.

Security has been increased on all New York City subways and other transportation modes. Since June 2005, all packages and bags are subject to inspection at any time.

The fare is US$2 per ride, US$7 for a daily pass (from first use until 3 am the next day), US$24 for a seven-day pass and US$76 for a 30-day pass. A pass for six single rides costs US$10, giving you one free ride.

Bus—MTA runs a huge fleet of public buses. More than 80% are equipped with wheelchair lifts. Bus routes run north-south and east-west, with schedules usually posted at the bus stops. Buses run 24 hours a day, though service on most lines is heavily scaled back late at night. Buses make frequent stops, generally every two blocks. This means that you rarely have to walk very far to a bus stop, but it also means that buses are not the fastest method of transportation and are generally slower than the subway. It may be more time-efficient to walk that extra block or two to the nearest subway station in lieu of sitting on a bus in traffic for an extra hour.

MetroCards are used to pay fares on the bus. The basic fare is US$2 for a ride on a regular bus, US$5 for a ride on an express bus. A daily pass (good from first use until 3 am the next day) costs US$7; a seven-day pass costs US$24; and a 30-day pass costs US$76. You can also pay a bus fare with coins (no bills), but few people do.

Cruise ships dock at the Passenger Ship Terminal, located at 711 12th Ave., between 48th and 55th streets. Most cruise lines provide transportation from the airport to the cruise terminal. However, if you're spending extra time in the city, you may need to arrange your own. The closest airport is Newark, followed by La Guardia. The docks can be reached from the West Side Highway (also called 12th Avenue) by car, taxi or bus. The closest subway stop is 50th Street and Eighth Avenue on the E or C line. For more information, call the Passenger Ship Terminal. Phone 212-246-5450. http://www.nypst.com.

Although airports, many hotels and some restaurants have taxi stands, you may hail yellow cabs anywhere. They're so numerous in Manhattan, you seldom have to wait long to catch one, and you never actually have to phone for a cab. Just walk to a corner, make yourself visible and raise your arm as the river of traffic comes toward you. If the yellow light on the top of the cab is entirely on or off, the cab is either occupied, off duty or on call. If the center portion of the light is on, the cab is available.

Rush hour and evening supplements are added to the metered fare. The fare from John F. Kennedy Airport into Manhattan is a flat US$45, plus tolls and tip. You will get a fare ticket from the taxi dispatcher outside the baggage claim. The fares from the other airports are metered, plus tolls and tip. La Guardia is the closest airport to the city and can be an inexpensive cab ride (if you travel late at night or early in the morning, when traffic is light).

One fare covers all passengers. It's always a good idea to ask for a receipt when paying—the receipt will have the cab identification number, which will help if you've left behind an umbrella or shopping bag. Note that cabs have a series of surcharges, including at night and at peak hours. More and more taxis now will also take credit cards for a small surcharge.

Livery cabs are non-yellow cabs with an L on the license plate. They're not supposed to pick up passengers in the business areas of Manhattan. Most of their pickups are in the other boroughs and in Harlem. If you spot a cab that's not yellow, make sure it's got an L on the license plate. The livery cabs are not metered, so you'll have to negotiate a rate.

We do not recommend accepting rides from gypsy cabs, unofficial taxis that roam the streets offering rides for negotiable fees. If you are a tourist, the gypsy cabs will spot you immediately and may be aggressive in their pursuit of your easy business. Just ignore them or tell them that you are not interested, and they will go away without too much trouble.

New York City Taxi and Limousine Commission

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Complete information about taxi fares, policies and regulations can be obtained there. Phone 311. http://www.nyc.gov/html/tlc/html/contact/contact.shtml.

Grand Central Terminal

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At least 1,000 trains rumble into and out of this station each day, including Metro-North trains (four commuter lines to Connecticut and the New York suburbs). The enormous, vaulted main room, with its sparkly ceiling of stellar constellations, is reason enough to go. Grand Central Terminal also offers its fair share of shopping. With a food court, upscale clothing stores, bookstores and even a gourmet-food market, the terminal caters to the wealthier travelers in and around New York. 42nd Street at Park Avenue (42nd Street-Grand Central subway station), Manhattan, New York City. Phone 718-330-1234. http://www.grandcentralterminal.com.

Penn Station

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In addition to lots of commuter traffic into and out of New Jersey and Long Island, this terminal handles the longer, commercial train routes to other major cities. Carriers operating from Penn Station include Amtrak, New Jersey Transit, the Long Island Rail Road and New Jersey PATH. It also houses an array of restaurants and pubs where you can pass the time while waiting for a train (office workers who spend their days in the enormous surrounding buildings can shop and eat there). Seventh Avenue between 31st and 33rd streets (34th Street-Penn Station subway station), Manhattan, New York City.

NYC & Company

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Provides maps and information on hotels, restaurants, sightseeing, shopping and theater. You can also request the Official NYC Visitor Guide. Monday-Friday 8:30 am-6 pm, Saturday and Sunday 8:30 am-5 pm. 810 Seventh Ave., between 52nd and 53rd streets (subway line N, R or W to 49th Street), Manhattan, New York City. Phone 212-484-1200. http://www.nycvisit.com.