Foreign currency can be used for some transactions at a very limited number of shops and restaurants that cater almost exclusively to foreign tourists (such as those in the town of Narita, near the airport), but the yen is preferred and is required at most establishments. The most convenient place to exchange money is at the airport upon arrival, followed by the exchange desk in your hotel (though the exchange rate will not be good). The next easiest place is at a bank displaying the Authorized Foreign Exchange Bank sign. Most banks in Tokyo can exchange your currency with minimum hassle. Many of the larger stores have their own foreign-exchange counters offering competitive rates. Passports usually are required when converting currency.

You can extract yen at the going rate of exchange, using either a bank or credit card, at some (but not all) ATMs. (ATMs that accept credit cards usually have an option for English-language instructions.) Bank cards operating on the PLUS, Cirrus, Maestro and Visa Electron systems can be used at ATMs, as well as VISA, MasterCard, American Express and Diners Club credit cards.

Since most banks with ATMs accept cards issued only in Japan, the best place to find ATMs that accept foreign cards is at a post office or 7-Eleven convenience store. In addition, Citibank's ATMs also accept cards on the PLUS and Cirrus systems, as well as Visa and MasterCard, but not all foreign cards may be accepted. They have English-language menus and operate 24 hours a day. You can find a list of all Citibank ATMs in Tokyo at http://www.citibank.co.jp/en/atm. Remember to choose a numerical PIN: There are no English alphabet keys on Japanese cash machines.

There is a consumption tax of 5% on all purchases, which is included in all listed prices, including in restaurants and hotels. Technically, nonresident foreigners are exempt from the tax for purchases of goods, but if you're not dealing with a shop that has a rebate counter for foreign tourists or you don't have your passport with you, you'll pay the tax. Hotels in Tokyo also levy a room tax of ¥100-¥200 per night per person on rooms that cost ¥10,000 and up.

Tipping is one of the few bargains in Japan: It isn't practiced. However, the more expensive restaurants and hotels will tack on a 10%-15% service charge. Porters aren't as common as they once were, but expect to pay a few hundred yen per bag. Taxi drivers don't charge extra for handling baggage.

The temperate climate brings dry and mild to cold winters, warm and humid summers and pleasant springs and autumns. Rainfall is common March-October, especially during the rainy season from mid-June to mid-July. The best times to visit are April-May, for the blooming cherry blossoms and pleasant weather, and October-November for changing leaves and similarly enjoyable weather. It can get hot and muggy in August. Winter seldom brings snow, but temperatures usually drop below freezing for a few days. Average temperatures: January 39 F/4 C; April 56 F/13 C; July 78 F/26 C; October 63 F/17 C.

In general, the Japanese are easygoing about dress in restaurants and at public events. Very few places have a dress code. If you were to show up in jeans for a reception or other important event, you'd probably just be considered eccentric, and your attire would be politely ignored.

When visiting a shrine or temple, it's best to dress in a respectful manner—T-shirts are OK, but don't go in shorts. And in winter, take along warm socks because shoes are removed when visiting many places, and central heating is not common. Hotels may provide slippers, but they're generally tailored for smaller people, so you may be more comfortable if you take your own.

Japanese businesspeople tend to be more conservative than their Western counterparts, but in recent years there has been movement toward more casual clothing. A dark gray or dark blue suit is normal business attire for men. Businesswomen will want to wear suits. Outside of business, expect to see Japanese in very stylish fashions.

Most major hotels offer high-speed Internet access from at least some of their rooms; some charge for the service, but an increasing number are providing it free. You'll also notice phone booths on the city streets that provide high-speed data lines—you can plug your laptop directly into them. However, high telephone charges makes surfing the Internet expensive. Most young Japanese use their mobile phones to send mail and go online. For that reason, Internet cafes aren't that common in Tokyo. There also is less demand for public Wi-Fi there than in some other areas.

Marunouchi Cafe

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Free Internet access. Monday-Friday 8 am-9 pm; Saturday, Sunday and national holidays 11 am-8 pm. Shin-Tokyo Bldg. 1F, 3-3-1 Marunouchi, Tokyo. Phone 3212-5025. English assistance available.

The Apple Store

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Free Internet access and many English-speaking staffers. There's another location in Shibuya. Open daily 10 am-9 pm. 3-5-12 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo. Phone 5159-8200.

Yahoo! Cafe

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Free Internet access when you buy a drink. Some staffers speak English. Daily 24 hours. There are other locations in Hibiya (Monday-Friday 9 am-8 pm); Narita Airport, Terminal 2, Third Floor (Monday-Friday 8 am-9 pm); and in Haneda Airport, Terminal 2, Departures Lobby (Monday-Friday 8 am-8:30 pm). Free registration required. Main location in Shinagawa Prince Hotel Executive Tower, 7F, 4-10-30 Takanawa, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3440-1111 (Shinagawa Prince concierge).

Japan has an extensive and efficient postal system, and all hotels will provide mail and package service.

The Tokyo International Post Office

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For international parcels and registered mail. 24 hours. 2-3-3 Otemachi (next to Otemachi station), Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3241-4891. http://www.post.japanpost.jp.

Tokyo and the rest of Japan are served by two major daily English-language newspapers that can be found at most kiosks and foreign bookstores: The Japan Times and The Daily Yomiuri. For local financial and business news, The Nikkei Weekly is published every Monday. Tokyo Journal is a local English-language, monthly magazine found on newsstands in some hotels and foreign bookshops.

Many major international newspapers and magazines are available at hotel newsstands and foreign bookshops. The Economist, The Financial Times, The New York Times, Time, Newsweek and The Asian Wall Street Journal are just some of those available.

The Weekender and Metropolis are two English-language entertainment publications with excellent upcoming events and gallery listings, as well as bar, disco and restaurant listings (although these tend to be paid advertisements rather than impartial reviews). Both are available free in some hotels and foreign bookshops.

With the proliferation of mobile phones, there has been a cutback in the number of public telephones in public areas. However, they are still reasonably common, and many now have data ports. Some will only accept coins, but newer models take prepaid phone cards, too, or only prepaid cards. Buy phone cards at vending machines, kiosks or major convenience stores.

Japanese telephone numbers can be confusing. If you're calling a number in Tokyo from inside Japan but outside the city, add the Tokyo area code (03) to the number. If you're calling Tokyo from outside Japan, you'll need to dial the country code (81) and the area code (3) without the leading zero. Toll-free numbers begin with 0120 or 0088.

The subway and surface train system is, without a doubt, the most efficient way to get around Tokyo. Both are clean, quiet and efficient. However, it's best to avoid rush hours, since they can also get incredibly crowded (and don't even think about taking luggage with you in the morning rush hour). But at other times of day, trains are a much better option than taxis, which are not only expensive (usually ¥660 for the first 1.2 mi/2 km) but often get caught in the tangle of traffic. The rail system may seem complex, but the secret is knowing the color and letter codes of the line that stops nearest your destination. Maps are available in English.

One of the very best aspects of travel in Tokyo is the people. Most of them will bend over backward to help you. Just point out your destination on an English- and Japanese-language map or show them your destination written out in Japanese by your hotel staff. They'll almost always help you buy your ticket and direct you to the right platform. And don't be surprised if they take you halfway across town, right to where you want to go, just out of kindness—or, sometimes, for an opportunity to practice speaking English.

Most international flights to Tokyo land at New Tokyo International Airport (NRT) in Narita. Narita is located some 40 mi/65 km east of Tokyo, but because of the heavy and unpredictable traffic, it can take as long as 90 minutes to reach the city by car or limousine bus. During heavy traffic—which is much of the time—a drive to or from the airport can take three or more hours. For that reason, it is usually more reliable to use one of the train services. If you have an early flight, consider booking a room near the airport for your last night.

Narita has two terminals, each with a tourist information office, ATMs and currency exchange counters, post offices, cell phone rentals and luggage storage. A renovation of both terminals relocated airlines based on their partner affiliations, created new business and first-class lounges and includes a revamp of departure floors. http://www.narita-airport.jp/en.

Most domestic flights, and some international flights from Asia, land at Tokyo International Airport (HND) in Haneda. Haneda (nicknamed the Big Bird) is conveniently located between Tokyo and Yokohama, about a half-hour bus, train or monorail ride from downtown Tokyo. Terminal 1 handles Japan Airlines (JAL) flights exclusively, and Terminal 2 handles All Nippon Airways (ANA). http://www.tokyo-airport-bldg.co.jp.

Connecting Transportation

Best way:

The most convenient way to travel between Tokyo and Narita is using the commercial shuttle buses (known as Limousine Buses (http://www.limousinebus.co.jp/en/index.html). The Limousine Bus Service counter is in the arrivals lobby, and the staff speaks English. Destinations to all major hotels, train stations, and the Tokyo City Air Terminal (T-CAT; http://www.tcat-hakozaki.co.jp/eng/top.html) and Yokohama City Air Terminal (Y-CAT; http://www.ycat.co.jp/indexe.htm)—actually bus terminals—are displayed prominently. You don't have to be staying at a major hotel to take the bus, and if your hotel isn't served directly, the conductor will put you on a bus to the hotel nearest your destination. The fare to most destinations in the city is about ¥3,000. Buses leave every hour or so for each hotel from around 5:30 or 7 am until late afternoon, depending on the hotel. (If you miss the last bus because of a delayed arrival, ask the airline to provide transportation, because a taxi to downtown is prohibitively expensive.)

Other options:

We really don't recommend that you drive in Tokyo, but if you do decide to, cars from most recognized international rental companies and some Japanese companies are available at both Tokyo airports.

Both Keisei Corporation and Japan Railways (JR) run express train services between Narita and points downtown.

An interesting ride and a good way to avoid heavy highway traffic, the JR Narita Express, called NEX, stops at Tokyo, Shinjuku, Shinagawa and Shibuya stations inside the city, as well as at Yokohama and Ofuna to the south of Tokyo. The NEX is the most popular way to and from the airport. It's fast, comfortable and convenient, but you might have a long wait for a seat going into the city. Be aware that you'll have to climb up and down stairs to reach the trains, so this is a good option only if you can easily manage all your baggage. If you are arriving at Terminal Two, be prepared to get on the train quickly, as it will only stop for a minute or so. Prices vary somewhat during the year, based on peak travel times; the trip to Tokyo station costs ¥2,940. If you have a validated JR Rail Pass (you can have it validated at Narita airport), use it to get your ticket on the NEX. English-language information is available from the JR East Infoline daily 10 am-6 pm (except year-end and New Year's holidays); phone 050-2016-1603.

The private Keisei Line links Narita with Nippori and Ueno stations in eastern Tokyo. The Skyliner express takes a little more than an hour and costs ¥1,920. There are also some through trains on the Keisei Line connecting Narita with Haneda Airport, via the Asakusa subway line. Because this line runs down the eastern side of central Tokyo, it is not convenient for most of the hotel and business districts. Unless you are staying in Shinagawa (and you're traveling light and know what you're doing), it is best not to attempt using the subway on your first trip.

It is possible to take a taxi from Narita into the city, but it'll cost an astronomical ¥20,000-¥30,000. Taking a bus or a train is much less expensive and won't take any longer.

Few foreign travelers use the intercity buses in Japan. Tokyo can be reached by bus from most major cities on Japan Railways (JR) highway buses. These leave distant cities in the evening or late at night, arriving at Tokyo station and a few other locations around the city early in the morning. For information in English, phone 050-2016-1603 (JR East Infoline) or contact the tourist information office.

Traveling by car is not a good choice in Japan. There are only about 4,065 mi/6,545 km of expressways, and more than 72.8 million cars clog them 24 hours a day. Traffic jams that back up 20-30 mi/30-50 km and last an entire day are not uncommon, especially during peak travel seasons. Toll roads are everywhere, and the prices make driving almost as expensive as flying or taking the train.

If you do decide to drive, rental cars from most recognized international companies and some Japanese companies (Orix, Nippon and Toyota) are available at both Tokyo airports and at numerous city locations. Be sure to obtain an international driver's license. Driving is on the left side of the road.

Tokyo's public transportation is fast, clean, safe and convenient to use. Most of the yellow-and-black directional signs are in both English and Japanese. Start with good maps of the rail and subway systems—you can pick them up from the Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO) or in most subway and train stations.

Japan Railways (JR) runs three main lines in Tokyo: The Yamanote loop line encircles the center of the city, making it a good route for visitors; the Keihin-Tohoku Line runs between Tokyo and Yokohama; and the Chuo Line/Sobu Line cuts east-west through the city. There are also numerous privately owned lines to practically anywhere you want to go in Tokyo or beyond. Tokyo station is the hub of the system. The two other main train stations are Shinagawa, Shibuya and Shinjuku. Fares start at ¥130. For information in English, phone 050-2016-1603 (JR East Infoline). http://www.jreast.co.jp/e.

Fortunately, the subway system recently introduced a new coding system that makes getting around much less stressful if you are not very good with Japanese station names. Each line is now represented with a letter in addition to the existing color (the Ginza Line being G and the Marunouchi, M, for example) and each stop on any line with a number. So, Ginza station will appear as M16, G9 or H8 depending on which line you use to get there. A downloadable English map can be found at http:www.tokyometro.jp/e. You can transfer between any of the lines, and they all connect with the JR Yamanote Line at some point. Fares start at ¥160 and go up to ¥300; you can buy a prepaid Passnet Card (also called SF Metro Card) for ¥1,000, ¥3,000 or ¥5,000, good for travel on subways and also on the suburban private lines. Try to avoid the subway at rush hour unless you're curious to see the "pushers" actually pack people onto the crowded trains.

Tickets for trains and subways are sold in vending machines. Figuring out how to work the machines is the hardest part. The fare for your destination is shown on the wall map above the machines, which is not always in English. It helps to know the color code of the station closest to your destination. Insert coins or bills (all the machines give change), press the button showing the required fare and out pops a ticket. You'll need the ticket on both ends of your journey, so don't lose it. If you get confused trying to buy the right ticket (or are in a rush), buy a minimum fare ticket and then use one of automated fare adjustment machines (usually just inside the ticket gates) when you get to your destination. They operate in English as well as Japanese. Alternatively, purchase a Suica prepaid card for ¥2,000, which eliminates having to buy individual tickets for each ride and can be used for almost all trains, subways and buses throughout Tokyo.

Although city buses cover far more territory than the subway, they are not recommended unless you can read Japanese. Almost none of the drivers speak English, and buses are subject to the same congested traffic conditions as cars and taxis.

Taxis are clean, safe and readily available everywhere in Tokyo. Most hotels and all train stations have a taxi stand. You also can flag down a taxi by holding out your hand. However, the taxis may pass you by to pick up Japanese people—most drivers do not speak English, and they're afraid of communication problems with foreigners. Because traffic moves on the left-hand side of the street, enter and leave the taxi using the left-hand door. But don't open it yourself—it's operated automatically by the driver.

Taxis can prove hard to find late at night after the trains and subway stop running, especially on a rainy night. A red-lit sign in the left front window of the taxi (or on the roof at night for visibility) means it's available; yellow means that the taxi's on radio call and will not stop. You also can order a taxi by phone for a 20% surcharge. From 10 pm-5 am there's a 20% surcharge on fares.

Have your hotel write down your destination in Japanese and make sure to take the hotel's taxi card along so you can get back: Japanese names for hotels are not always the same as the English names, and drivers won't be able to understand where you want to go. Carry an English- and Japanese-language map to point out your destination if necessary. One good feature of Tokyo taxis is that most of them come equipped with in-car navigation systems, so if you give the taxi driver the exact address of where you want to go he can program in the route and get you through even the most confusing of backstreets.

Japan has some of the best train networks in the world—fast, safe, efficient and clean. The main network is operated by the Japan Railways (JR) group of companies, and there are many other privately operated lines. Stations in the city include Tokyo, Ueno, Shinjuku, Shibuya and Yurakucho. For information, see http://www.hyperdia.com or http://www.jorudan.co.jp/english. Just type in the name of your departure and arrival stations to get detailed information on the various ways to get there by train. Or, for information in English, phone 050-2016-1603 (JR East Infoline).

Japan Travel Bureau

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The biggest tourist travel agency in Tokyo (more than 40 offices). The objective is to sell you package tours—its employees are competent, efficient and trustworthy, but they're not going to give any information other than their canned tours (which, if they fit your needs, we highly recommend). Many of the offices of the Japan Travel Bureau are in hotels. JTB operates the Sunrise bus tours of Tokyo and the area.

National Tourist Offices

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The Japan National Tourist (JNTO) is an excellent resource for all types of tourist information. If you're already in Tokyo, you can get maps, books and other information from JNTO's Tourist Information Center. (The branches at Narita Airport are on the first arrival floors of Terminals 1 and 2.) At all locations you can get up-to-date information for Tokyo and elsewhere in Japan. The TIC will also book inexpensive hotel accommodations free of charge. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Tokyo Kotsu Kaikan 10F, 2-10-1 Yurakucho (near Yurakucho station on the JR Yamanote loop line), Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3201-3331. http://www.jnto.go.jp.