Sights—The Catedral; Parque Mirador Independencia and its view of the canyon; Palacio de Gobierno to see Jose Clemente Orozco's legendary mural; Ballet Folklorico, the University of Guadalajara's respected traditional dance troupe.

Museums—Instituto Cultural de Cabanas for Jose Clemente Orozco's murals and his masterpiece, Man of Fire; Museo Regional de Guadalajara for a quick overview of anthropology and painting in the state of Jalisco; Wixarica Museo de Arte Huichol for background information about the yarn paintings and beadwork that represent Huichol culture.

Memorable Meals—Mouthwatering Argentinean-style steaks and high-end service at La Matera; gourmet regional specialties and an agave education at La Tequila; a relaxed evening sampling the gourmet European specialties at Brasserie.

Late Night—Salsa and various Latin dancing at Casino Veracruz; fusion cuisine, a large wine selection and a cosmopolitan, loungelike atmosphere at Tinto & Blanco; all-night dancing at La Marcha.

Walks—Sunday's Via Recreativa, in which Avenida Juarez/Vallarta is closed to automobiles; Saturday walking tours originating at Plaza Guadalajara; a stroll from the Catedral through plazas and pedestrian zones to Instituto Cultural de Cabanas.

Especially for Kids—The Zoologico Guadalajara; Trompo Magico Museo Interactivo; Selva Magica amusement park.

The capital of the state of Jalisco, Guadalajara is located in the Atemajac Valley, on a highland plain that is 5,141 ft/1,567 m above sea level. The city is surrounded by hills and sierras, some of which are falling prey to housing projects. The metropolitan area comprises the neighboring municipalities of Zapopan, Tlaquepaque and Tonola.

To the northeast of the city, there is a huge canyon known as Barranca de Oblatos, with an impressive waterfall called Cascada Cola de Caballo (Horsetail Falls). A large forest, La Primavera, borders Zapopan to the west of the city. Much of the forest, which is home to natural hot springs and more than 200 animal and bird species, is protected natural land. Miguel Hidalgo International Airport lies beyond Tlaquepaque to the south. Past the airport, about 25 mi/40 km south of the city, is Lake Chapala. The communities surrounding the country's largest lake have become expat enclaves, drawing many U.S. and Canadian retirees to the temperate climate.

Although the area around Guadalajara saw an agrarian society blossom as early as 200 BC, it did not foster a pre-Columbian empire comparable to others in Mexico. Indigenous groups such as the Huichol and Chapalas were residents of the surrounding highland areas. The region was brought under Spanish domination in 1532 through the bloody campaign of Nuno de Guzman, whose exploits were so brutal that he was recalled by Spanish authorities in 1538. A final site for the city of Guadalajara, which was named after Guzman's birthplace in Spain, was not chosen until 1542, after three previous sites were abandoned because of attacks and rebellions. Guadalajara, which became the capital of Nueva Galicia (and later, the state of Jalisco), was an important agricultural and commercial center in the colonial period, trading wheat, cotton, wool and livestock, and developing important textile and leather industries. Its university was founded in 1792.

In 1810, Miguel Hidalgo y Costillo, a liberal priest and a leader in the independence movement, established a revolutionary government in Guadalajara, but his troops were defeated the following year. The mid-19th century (War of the Reform) and early 20th century (Mexican Revolution) were marked by rebellion and civil war, with Guadalajara the site of some fighting. By the end of the 19th century, Guadalajara was becoming an economic powerhouse, known as the "Pearl of the West." This is reflected in the neighborhoods outside the city center, most notably along the Avenida Juarez-Vallarta, where the wealthy built elegant houses with a European flair, modeled on villas in France and Spain.

This prosperity and growth continued in the 20th century, when a variety of industries flourished. In 2007, a leading financial publication ranked Guadalajara second on its list of most important cities in North America with economic potential. Industries settling there can count on a strong work force consisting of the 65% of the population that is younger than 25. The city also has the prestigious University of Guadalajara and many other schools that turn out prepared professionals.

It's against the law to use swear words in public in Zapopan.

Artist Jose Clemente Orozco had to learn to paint with his left hand after his right hand was badly injured in a firecracker accident as a child.

Mexicans (and tapatios) claim the best-looking people are from Guadalajara, many of whom have pure Spanish or French ancestry.

Guadalajara's Chivas soccer team has two noteworthy characteristics: The team fields only Mexican players, and the uniforms have no advertising.

Secret tunnels underneath the Catedral connect with passageways to other old buildings in the city's center. They are remnants from the days of colonization, war and religious persecution. Some houses downtown still have tunnel access.