When the first atomic bomb exploded over Hiroshima on 6 August 1945, the city became an immediate symbol for the horrors of war. Today, Hiroshima has several moving reminders of that day of utter devastation.
The centerpiece is called the A-Bomb Dome—it's the skeleton of a domed building that survived the blast. Across the street is Peace Park, where you'll find the Cenotaph for the Victims (it contains all of their names) and the Atomic Bomb Museum. The museum's photographs are compelling (and horrifying): They show the actual effects of heat and radiation on human flesh.
The most moving monument is the Children's Peace Memorial, which celebrates the desire for long life and happiness, traditionally expressed in the folding of paper cranes. You may see groups of schoolchildren adding more paper cranes, strung together in rainbow garlands, to the millions that already surround the base of the memorial.
In the years since the war, Hiroshima has been rebuilt into a fairly typical industrial city (Mazda has a huge factory there). You'll find covered shopping arcades, lively department stores (with ardent consumers) and a helpful information office. Hiroshima is a good city for walking, but it also has an efficient streetcar system that provides announcements of stops in both Japanese and English. Just be sure to get the correct streetcar number from your hotel's concierge before venturing out.
The island of Miyajima lies just off the coast from Hiroshima—a short ferry ride from the end of the streetcar line. The main reasons to go there are the solitude, the view and the Shrine of Itsukushima, which is built on wooden piers over the water. The shrine's torii (the huge gate at the entrance to a Shinto shrine) is out at the head of a bay—its orange paint, stunning against the blue water, has made this one of the most photographed places in Japan. To get the best pictures, be there when the tide's in—the torii will look like it's floating. The shrine was constructed in 593 to honor the fishing gods, and for centuries, boats coming to the island had to pass under the torii. Today, travelers often find lodging on Miyajima while visiting Hiroshima. Don't leave the island without sampling the locally made crackers. Beware of the overly friendly deer wandering through the area.
Near the southwest tip of Honshu, about 50 mi/80 km west of Hiroshima, Hagi is an old castle town with a number of attractions. Though scenic ruins are all that's left of the castle, you can stroll through two neighborhoods of preserved samurai houses, some of them open to visitors. Horiuchi, with huge houses hidden behind picturesque ancient walls, was where the top rank lived; Jokamachi was home to the lower ranks. The town is also famous for exquisite tea-ceremony pottery. A score of kilns are still in operation, and many of the workshops are open to the public. If you have time, we recommend renting a bicycle and pedaling along the Aiba waterway, a tranquil old canal filled with colorful koi, or Japanese carp.
The most famous bridge in Japan, the Kintai-kyo, is found in Iwakuni, some 30 mi/45 km southwest of Hiroshima. Built in 1673, the Brocade Sash Bridge is composed of five gracefully arched spans. The bridge originally was meant for the use of samurai—all others were forbidden to step upon it. 175 mi/280 km west of Osaka.
