Our favorite of the Society Islands (the most visited of French Polynesia's archipelagoes, 110 mi/180 km northwest of Papeete), Huahine is a great choice for anyone who wants to see something aside from the main tourist islands (Tahiti, Moorea and Bora Bora). It's uncrowded enough to fit most people's expectations of a sleepy Polynesian isle, yet it has a couple of upscale resorts and enough tours and outfitters to make it easy to do things. Plan three nights at the minimum, five if you're capable of kicking back to full relaxation mode.
The small town of Fare (pronounced FAH-ray) is a big part of the island's charm. Small stores, restaurants, guesthouses, warehouses and assorted offices line its two main streets, one of which is along the water. It's a bustling place on weekday mornings or anytime that a freighter pulls in. Trucks, children, tourists and dogs scamper about, intent on their missions. But take a walk along the main drag on a Sunday, and you'll think you're in a ghost town.
Because Huahine has limited public transportation, having your own car is a big advantage. The usual around-the-island drive on Huahine actually involves two islands that are separated at one point by a narrow channel (there's a bridge).
The larger island, Huahine Nui, is where the airport and Fare are located. A treasure trove of ancient sites can be visited on the northeast corner of Huahine Nui, near the village of Maeva. Several maraes can be seen just off the main road, fronting an inland lake. Others can be seen by taking a short hike up the mountainside. These ancient ceremonial sites now appear as stone-floored plazas. Also along the lake is Fare Potee, a museum housed in a replica of a traditional building. The most interesting archaeological sites are in the lake, however. V-shaped fish traps are visible in narrow parts of the waterway and are thought to have been constructed centuries ago. They're still used today. If you're lucky, you may see locals harvesting the fish from a boat.
Like many French Polynesian islands, Huahine does not have a lot of sand beaches—the protective reef prevents them from forming. The only sand beach of note on Huahine Nui is not far from Maeva, at the Sofitel Coralia Heiva resort. Visitors can use the beach, so long as they don't appropriate beach chairs and other items intended for hotel guests. Another option when you want some shore time is to head for one of the motus (small sandy islets) just off the main island. You'll need a boat to get there (tour companies run motu excursions). Hanging out on a deserted isle for a few hours is a great experience, provided you have provisions (food, water, beer) and some shade. Motu Topati, on the island's east side, is an especially nice getaway.
Huahine Iti, the southern half of Huahine, is still old Polynesia with small villages, vanilla plantations, a few quaint pensions and some nice beaches. It's less populated than the northern half and has fewer attractions. A drive around the shore road yields some nice views of the lagoon and the waves pounding against the distant reef. A few guesthouses and resorts are situated on the far southern end of the island, near the village of Parea. Some of them have access to the nice sand beach there.
There are good spots for surfing, snorkeling and scuba diving around the islands. Three scuba operators run trips—one based in Fare, one at the southern end of Huahine Iti and one from a 36-ft/12-m sailboat. Fishing and sightseeing boat trips are also available. La Petite Ferme, a horse stable near the airport, offers horseback rides. A typical outing runs along a section of beach, then down many less-scenic roads and across a portion of the lakeshore. Unless you absolutely love horses, you may want to save the riding for another island. It can be a long, hot expedition with little in the way of tour chatter to liven things up.
