This hotel enjoys views of Mount Fuji and volcanically active Oshima, 8 km south of Ito Station and 90 minutes southwest of Tokyo by bullet train. This establishment is, like the Fujiya in Hakone and the Nara Hotel in Nara, one of Japan's most venerable hotels. This resort opened in 1936, its Spanish-style building reflecting founder Kishchiro Okura's nostalgia for his playboy days abroad (news of which prompted his father to force his return). The prodigal then set out to build a European-style hotel and, after a gardener dared to put a golf course in the field Okura had reserved as meadowland, the Kawana was born. There are still 10,000 cherry trees on the premises, but the gardener's insubordination is what made this place into a world-renowned golf resort that, according to one pro, is on par with Pebble Beach.
Arrivals slide across checkered marble floors to check in with the friendly staff at the inconspicuous reception desk. Across the hall, the grand two-story lobby is little changed since Joltin' Joe and Monroe honeymooned here. The black leather seating set on plush Oriental rugs faces a massive marble fireplace. The carved wood, wrought-iron fixtures and coat of arms help maintain the somber Spanish look. The lounge on the upstairs balcony has a more studious tone with its books, historical photos and old library desks, including four that
provide computer hookups at no extra charge.
The all-purpose, casual Grill serves Japanese and Western fare, but for a splurge there's the quaint main dining hall offering French cuisine or the 300-year-old garden farmhouse. Drinks flow in the darkened bar and in the oval-shaped parlor, where striped rattan chairs and potted plants bask in solarium sunlight, and views of Mount Fuji are a treat on clear days. Room service is available from 8 am to 10:45 pm.
Meeting space is the peninsula's largest, with a capacity of 900 for receptions. Even so, few come here to work. The two 18-hole golf courses, traced out across the broad, rocky grounds, are wonderfully challenging and boast views that may distract from the game. The older Oshima Course is open to the public, with self-driven golf carts, and the Fuji Course uses caddies and is open only to hotel guests. (Reserve tee times when booking rooms; both courses are often reserved five months in advance, not to mention the occasional international golf tournament that fills its greens.)
Nongolfers enjoy three outdoor pools (one of which is a children's pool), two unlit tennis courts, a jogging course and garden paths, but the extravagant fees, such as $14 to swim in the pool, will annoy some. Guests can walk 1 km to the rocky shore, but sandy beaches are nonexistent hereabouts.
Accommodations vary by age, size and exposure, with the oldest rooms and biggest balconies in the main building. The older rooms have pink and peach color schemes, scarred furniture, minibars, Japanese-only TVs and hair dryers. Newer rooms add electric drapes and bland furniture. The combination baths are merely functional, though some have two sinks. Windows disclose pleasant garden or sea views, some surveying Oshima. Traditional tatami rooms are offered, but wheelchair-accessible options are not. Only five rooms are designated smoke-free.
The friendly, hardworking staff makes this classic, though aging, spot a top-rated retreat for golfers, as well as for anyone else seeking a secluded spot for relaxation.
