If you can visit only one city in Japan, Kyoto is the one. This ancient city was the capital of Japan for more than a thousand years and still is considered the country's spiritual capital. Kyoto is graced with an abundance of temples, palaces, gardens and museums (as well as plenty of tourists, so expect crowds).
Try to budget three nights for Kyoto. However, if you're short on time, concentrate on three sites: the Golden Pavilion, Nijo Castle and the Kiyomizu Temple. You can see them all by city bus, but taxi fare between them is not prohibitively expensive. There are also bus tours that will give you a glimpse of all three sites and others, though probably not with sufficient time to contemplate them in depth.
The Golden Pavilion (Kinkakuji) is impressive: Each of its three stories reflects a different architectural style, but what most people remember is that it's covered in gold leaf. The small lake nearby adds to the glimmer. No one is allowed inside, but you can take pictures. The actual building is a perfect reconstruction, erected after a disaffected monk set fire to the original, centuries-old wooden structure in 1950. Don't miss the classic teahouse that's nestled in the trees nearby—it has a celebrated, rough-hewn central pillar.
At the 17th-century Nijo Castle, you can see the architecture change as you go from the most public spaces to the private chambers of the shogun. There's an imaginative security system, too: The floorboards were deliberately built to squeak when walked upon (a sound poetically compared to the call of nightingales), thereby impeding attempts to eavesdrop upon or assassinate those inside.
Kiyomizu Temple, on a hillside at the east edge of the city, is famous both for its waterfall and for the stunning view from its vast wooden terrace. The temple is particularly beautiful in April, when cherry blossoms abound, and in November, when maple leaves show their autumn colors. After your visit, stroll through the narrow lanes of traditional houses, boutiques and stores below the temple—the area is famed for its pottery shops.
Among the many other stops you should make in Kyoto is the Nanzenji Temple, which has a pretty view of the city. From there, stroll down the Philosopher's Walk (a footpath along a canal lined with cherry trees) to the Ginkakuji (called the Silver Pavilion, though the plan to cover it in silver was never carried out). Ginkakuji has a pretty garden with a stylized version of Mount Fuji crafted from sand.
Another wonder is the Sanjusan-gendo, a hall built in 1266 that's famous for its 1,000-handed statue of Kannon, a representation of Buddha usually known as the Goddess of Mercy. The main statue in the hall is surrounded by 1,000 smaller statues of the same deity. If you can pull yourself away from the multifaceted Kannon, take a look at the statues of the 28 Faithful Followers, represented as a bizarre mixture of animals and humans (the facial expressions are wild).
Kyoto also is famed for its rock gardens, with their carefully raked gravel and asymmetrically placed stones. Among the best-known is the garden at Ryoanji Temple, with 15 rocks arranged in five groups on white sand. Some observers say the design symbolizes islands, or a mother tiger and her cubs swimming toward a fearful dragon. But it was designed for contemplating in Zen meditation, and its meaning and symbolism are entirely in the eye (and mind) of the beholder.
Visiting the Imperial Palace requires a permit, but don't let that put you off. Foreigners need only turn up with their passports at the office in the Palace Park an hour or so before the free English-language tours (weekdays at 10 am and 2 pm), and admittance will be granted. The complex is impressive yet austere—in modern Japan, it's hard to imagine that emperors lived (like everyone else) in unheated wooden buildings.
At night, stroll through Pontocho, the traditional nighttime entertainment spot. This narrow little street may be the most romantic street in Japan. You might even see a geisha (or a maiko—a young apprentice) scurrying to a theatrical performance or an assignation at a local bar. Fans of Arthur Golden's novel Memoirs of a Geisha might like to stroll around the Gion neighborhood, where the story was set. It's also possible to be dressed and made up as a geisha in studios catering (mostly) to Japanese women. Contact the tourist office for details.
The Traditional and Japanese Arts Theater presents authentic demonstrations of flower arranging (ikebana), court music, kyogen farces and the tea ceremony. We especially liked the National Museum, which exhibits ancient porcelain, lacquerware, swords and kimonos. If you'd like to buy modern versions of these crafts, stop by the Kyoto Handicraft Center, which has six floors of shops.
Even if you don't arrive in Kyoto by train, you can't help but notice the train station. It's one of the most imposing modern buildings in the country. Many people opposed its construction, especially traditionalists concerned about its impact on such a historic city. By the time you get to the top of the 11-story escalator (you can get off at each level or just keep going up and up), you'll realize they've built a mountainous modern mall in the middle of Japan's spiritual heart. There are plenty of shops and restaurants, and the tourist-information booth there is very helpful.
If you tire of the crowds, get a map from the tourist office and take a short ride on one of the local trains to scenic spots in the mountains around the city. Arashiyama (to the northwest), Fushimi (to the southeast) and Ohara (to the northeast) are particularly pleasant areas to explore.
Those interested in temples should make a stop-off in Uji on the way to Nara, home of the 1,000-year-old Byodoin Temple. This temple among the tea plantations to the south of Kyoto has a phoenix theme: The building is shaped like the mythical bird and has two bronze phoenix statues perched on opposite sides of the roof (these are reproductions—the originals are in the nearby Homotsukan Treasure House). The temple and the statue of Amitabha Buddha inside are considered national treasures.
If it fits your schedule, ride on the bullet train between Kyoto and Tokyo—it really is fun. 30 mi/50 km northeast of Osaka.
