La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, lies near the southeastern tip of the peninsula. Although it's a port city with only adequate beaches, it does have great diving and snorkeling and some of the best sportfishing on the peninsula. It's also a good jumping-off point for excursions to see gray whales, which pass by in the winter months. La Paz also hosts a lively (and popular) Carnival celebration each year just before Ash Wednesday (reserve a hotel far in advance if you plan to see it). While in town, visit the cathedral, the Museum of Anthropology and the
malecon, a waterfront sidewalk bordering playgrounds and restaurants on the sand.
La Paz is also the terminus of two ferries, from Mazatlan and Topolobambo, and the departure point for trips to Espiritu Santo Island. We recommend going there to explore the wilderness and the many caves along the beaches that were once used by the native Indians. The island is also a great place for snorkeling, kayaking and camping. At the sea pinnacles, called El Bajo, you can scuba dive with hundreds of seemingly docile hammerhead sharks. (This is not a recommendation—only experienced divers should attempt it, and then at their own risk.) Back on the Baja Peninsula, some of the finest less-developed beaches in Mexico lie to the northeast of La Paz, around Pichilingue—Balandra, Tecolote and Coyote (you need a car to get to them, and only Tecolote has watersports-equipment rentals). 725 mi/1,165 km south of San Diego, California.