
This hotel is a wonderfully rich Umbrian sampler with distinguished food, esteemed regional wine and famous hospitality. Unlike some of the prim houses here and in Tuscany, guests at Le Tre Vaselle will feel comfortable walking through the public areas in a pair of jeans, but be forewarned, prices for everything are as steep as the Umbrian hills.
This converted 17th-century Umbrian manor offers a feast for the senses that is subtler than most in the region. The building aptly mirrors its well-equipped brethren with all of the eye-popping features worthy of a 300-year-old manor, but the decor is quite humble. Indeed, catalog appointments mingle with the hotel's abundance of rare antiques.
Massive walls of pale stone mark the three-story exterior. Rustic beams, burnished terra-cotta floors and undulating whitewashed walls set
a warm tone inside. A gigantic stone hearth heats the lounge, where tasseled sofas face each other. Another lounge puts cheap pine coffee tables together with colorful but inexpensive area rugs from Pier 1 Imports.
For many arrivals, the centerpiece of the hotel is its laudable restaurant, which gets gushing reviews in the guest book and international press. Prices are high, but the distinguished Umbrian fare, with such delicacies as truffles and other wild fungi, makes it a must-do on any culinary sojourn through this delightful region of Italy. The food is accompanied by house-produced wine and followed up with some in-house petite patisserie. Cooking classes are offered during slow periods, and a wine museum, winery and vineyard are part of this house's traditions.
The modest health club contains a well-equipped gym, a sauna
and a small indoor pool that looks like an oversized whirlpool. It is, in fact, a counter-current pool that allows guests to swim laps in peace, but it takes some getting used to, and more than a few guests have the scars to prove it. These recreational perks supplement the recently revamped June-to-October outdoor pool, set in a brick terrace facing an ancient olive grove backed by the Umbrian hills.
Private dining rooms are often used in conjunction with the meeting space, housed in its own ancient building. Together, they can accommodate 200 people. Parking is ample and free, and small pets are permitted.
The large, classic guest rooms are all pleasant, but be sure to request east-facing rooms, as these have the best views. Housekeeping is fastidious, but some of the maintenance folk here have been fooled into believing that
patina and age always stroll hand in hand. That said, all of the rooms show rays of elegance. Most have whitewashed walls, contemporary rugs atop wood floors, and a mix of rustic antiques and more urbane contemporary pieces. Standard throughout are well-upholstered seating, thermostats, TVs, dual-line phones with data ports, minibars and bedside controls. Hair dryers, robes and second phones are in the tiled baths (five without tubs); most feature whimsical trompe l'oeil bookshelves and landscapes. Four units are specially equipped for travelers with disabilities.
The helpful management and staffers speak English well, and the late 1 pm checkout is fitting in this relaxed rural locale. Though somewhat remote, this year-round hotel is a special treat for carefree wine enthusiasts and gourmets roaming through Umbria.