Once an important banana port on Costa Rica's Caribbean coast, Puerto Limon (also called simply "Limon" by locals, although that is also the name of the province) is better known today as a good jumping-off point for visitors headed to Cahuita and Tortuguero national parks. The city, which is about 100 mi/160 km east of San Jose, is also a popular stop for cruise ships. Unfortunately, there really isn't much to see or do in Puerto Limon itself—unless you are there for the huge Columbus Day Carnival in October.
Must See or Do
Sights—Exploring the Mercado Central (Central Market); relaxing at Playa Bonita; a boat trip up the Tortuguero Canal; snorkeling at Cahuita; viewing wildlife at Tortuguero National Park.
Memorable Meals—The bargain-priced buffet at Resturante Brisas del Caribe; authentic Caribbean cuisine at Black Star Line; Ital (Rastafarian) fare at the Irie Restaurant; Caribbean seafood at Miss Junie's in Tortuguero.
Late Night—Dance to reggae and salsa at Disco Acuario; chill with killer tropical cocktails at Ricky's Bar, in Cahuita; partying on the beach at Johnny's Place in Puerto Viejo; grooving to calypso during the city's annual carnival.
Walks—Hiking the wilderness trails in Cahuita National Park.
Especially for Kids—An evening turtle-watching excursion at Tortuguero National Park; viewing sloths close-up at Aviarios del Caribe Sloth Refuge.
History
Limon Bay has a unique spot in Costa Rica's history. It was there that Christopher Columbus first stepped ashore on the region's Caribbean shores in 1502 during his fourth and last voyage to the New World. The Genoese explorer anchored off Isla Uvita and called the region "La Huerta" (The Garden). Spanish conquistadores soon decimated the local population (many native people were enslaved to work in gold mines elsewhere in Central America), although that part of the coast was never really settled to any degree.
Pirates were a constant scourge along the coast. Many operated as loggers and smugglers—they also introduced the first African slaves to the region—and allied with coastal natives against the Spanish. Cacao was introduced in the 17th century, and for the next two centuries was the region's major export. In the latter part of the 19th century, Jamaican laborers were imported to work alongside Chinese indentured laborers building the Atlantic Railroad (completed in 1880), linking the then-minor port town of Puerto Limon to San Jose. Many stayed to infuse the coast with distinctive Caribbean island cultural traits. The railroad's developer, Minor Keith, negotiated a huge land grant as part of the railroad deal and introduced bananas to the Caribbean lowlands. The industry thrived until disease struck in the 1930s.
In 1979, the cacao industry was effectively destroyed by Monilia fungus. The desultory port town limped along and was dealt another blow in 1991 when a severe earthquake destroyed many buildings, including the city's major hotel. The past decade has seen a remarkable recovery and development, assisted by a regional tourism boom and major investments in a new cruise terminal.
Potpourri
Manatees inhabit the waters of wetland systems along the shore. These marine mammals spend most of their time submerged and thrive on munching water hyacinths. To spot them, look for bubbles erupting at the surface—the result of flatulence.
Sloths can often be seen in the trees around Puerto Limon and even crawling along telegraph wires. Many of the sloths at the Aviarios del Caribe Sloth Refuge center were electrocuted while crawling along the wires.
Many black costenos (coast-dwellers) speak a lilting patois—part English, part Spanish, part Creole—that can dumbfound visitors.
Iguanas are called "tree chickens" by campesinos, who eat them. Other Costa Ricans consider the giant lizards to be "poor-man's" food.
Sightseeing
Puerto Limon is a fairly tranquil city, notwithstanding its importance as the country's main trading port. The main highway into the city is chock-full of large container trucks heading to and from the docks, and extreme caution is required while driving the highway. The city itself, however, is relatively calm. Life centers around the Mercado Central, or Central Market (Avenidas 2/3 and Calles 3/4). Leafy Parque Vargas has a bust of Christopher Columbus and an interesting, albeit much aged, mural profiling the region's history. The town hall (on the park's north side) is the only structure of note in the city, whose real pleasure lies in wandering back streets lined with colorful timber homes in typical Caribbean style. Caution is required while walking, as pickpockets abound.
Recreation
Other than surfing at Playa Bonita, the town is not set up for tourist activities. However, there is plenty to do nearby. A boat trip up the Tortuguero Canal and water-based wildlife viewing in Tortuguero National Park are the most appealing ventures. North of Tortuguero, Barra del Colorado is a prime locale for game fishing (tarpon and snook are the feisty prize). One-, two- and three-day white-water trips on the Reventazon River prove thrilling. Hikers can follow coastal trails through Cahuita National Park (teeming with wildlife), or the more rugged, lonesome and demanding Hitoy-Cerere National Park. Surfing is popular at Puerto Viejo, south of Cahuita, and scuba-diving and dolphin-spotting trips are offered at Manzanillo, south of Puerto Viejo. Isla Uvita, a small island off the coast, is a great place for kayaking, scuba diving and snorkeling.
If you'd prefer a more laid-back day, we recommend a walk through the downtown park, then stopping at a nearby restaurant for a long coffee break or to have some authentic Caribbean food.
Shopping
There are very few places of interest for shopping in Puerto Limon, although craft stalls can be found inside the cruise port. The central market also sells hammocks and crafts. The best choices, however, are found in Cahuita and Puerto Viejo, which has dedicated souvenir stores selling hammocks, batiks, shell and coral jewelry, and gorgeous wood carvings.
Day Trips
Less than an hour's drive away, to the south, is Cahuita, a colorful coastal village with a strong Jamaican heritage reflected in its cuisines, Rastafarians and reggae music. A short distance beyond is Puerto Viejo, home to a large population of young foreigners who enjoy surfing, reggae-music discos and a very, very laid-back atmosphere. It also has a nice black-sand beach. Rent a bicycle, ride up and down the beaches and enjoy the Caribbean atmosphere. The town also is home to ATEC, an ecotourism association that offers tours and provides guides for visits to many areas in the Talamanca Mountain region. Phone 506-750-0191. http://www.greencoast.com/atec.htm.
Local Tours
Among the companies offering tours in Costa Rica are Horizontes (phone 506-222-2022, http://www.horizontes.com), Costa Rica Expeditions (phone 506-257-0766, http://www.costaricaexpeditions.com) and Swiss Travel (phone 506-282-4898, http://www.swisstravel.com). Many are based in San Jose but will arrange for a guide to meet you at the cruise-ship piers.
Dining Overview
Puerto Limon has several excellent bargain restaurants, although gourmands should keep their expectations in check. The Mercado Central has snack counters where you can fill up on typical local dishes for less than US$2. Many Chinese restaurants serve classic dishes for a pittance. Restaurante Brisas del Caribe (phone 758-0138), on the north side of Parque Vargas, has a tremendous lunchtime buffet. You can watch the street life from Soda Mares (phone 758-1347), on Avenida 2, between Calles 3/5. And spicy Caribbean cuisine is a specialty of Black Star Line (Calle 5 at Avenida 5, phone 383-5491) and Restaurante Springfield (phone 758-1203), about a mile/kilometer north of town.
Personal Safety
Downtown Puerto Limon is not particularly appealing to visitors. Except for a few nice parks and some monuments, there isn't much to see. We recommend avoiding the city at night unless you're in a group and are accompanied by a local tour guide. Beware of pickpockets by day while walking the streets, and avoid the sailors' bars near the port.
Beware of dangerous riptides, which can drag you out to sea, and avoid swimming in the ocean during high surf.
For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Health
Although sanitary conditions and water quality in Costa Rica are better than in most other countries in Central America, the Caribbean is more questionable. To be safe, drink bottled water. Hot, freshly cooked food should be safe (especially if it's included on a package tour), but peel fresh produce before eating, make sure meat is cooked thoroughly and avoid local dairy products. Stick with boiled or prepackaged drinks with recognizable brand names and check the safety seals before drinking.
Malaria is found along the Caribbean shore, including Tortuguero and Barra del Colorado national parks. Consult your doctor about appropriate measures, and take plenty of insect repellent. Hepatitis A and typhoid vaccinations also are recommended. The most serious medical problems—diarrhea, amoebic dysentery, malaria and typhoid—occur more frequently outside the capital but still are relatively rare.
Snakes abound in Costa Rica, including 19 venomous species. Although snakebites are rare, they do occur and it is wise to always wear footwear that covers the ankles while hiking in Cahuita National Park and other wilderness areas. Avoid handling leaf litter and look before placing your hand on branches or in crevices. The aggressive and potentially fatal fer-de-lance is responsible for most snakebites and deaths and should be given a very wide berth if encountered.
Costa Rica generally has a strong national health care system with well-trained physicians and nurses, and the hospitals in San Jose (about 100 mi/160 km away) are good. Most essential medicines are available, but take all prescription medicine needed for the trip. The sun can be strong, so use sunscreen liberally and wear a hat. Don't forget a pair of comfortable walking shoes. Hiking boots are best if you are venturing into the rain forest. (Take plenty of extra socks. Your feet are likely to get wet, and fresh socks help prevent blisters and infections.)
Disabled Advisory
Puerto Limon is not set up for the handicapped. Few sidewalks have ramps, and even fewer public buildings have ramps, special elevators or other facilities catering to handicapped travelers.
The Costa Rican-based Vaya con Silla de Ruedas (Go with Wheelchairs) can provide information. It also operates a specially equipped vehicle as a taxi and for transfers. Phone 454-2810. http://www.gowithwheelchairs.com.
Dos & Don'ts
Do know what
pura vida (pronounced
POO-ra BEE-da) means. The often-heard phrase literally translates as "pure life." Costa Ricans use this to say hello and goodbye and to express general happiness.
Do take time to view wildlife with an experienced naturalist guide. Opportunities abound for spotting caimans (like tiny crocodiles), monkeys, sloths, snakes, poison-dart frogs and scores of colorful birds. However, spotting them isn't always easy. A naturalist guide can easily find such creatures as well as provide fascinating information about their ecology.
Don't take a flashlight when viewing nesting marine turtles by night. These endangered creatures are easily frightened off. Do observe all the rules for viewing turtles, which should be done only in the company of licensed guides.
Don't swim in the ocean during high surf. Hidden riptides can sweep you out to sea. If you get caught by a riptide, try not to panic and do swim parallel to the shore to escape the narrow rip channel. Trying to swim against the current will only tire you out.
Don't buy drugs in Cahuita or Puerto Viejo. Many locals (especially Rastafarians) use marijuana, and drug traffickers have infiltrated the region, where cocaine is readily available. Not only is drug use illegal—plainclothes police are present—but it also undermines the integrity of local communities.
Do reconfirm airline reservations out of the country. Reservations are frequently canceled (particularly during the December and January holidays) if they're not confirmed at least 72 hours in advance. Car rental reservations also may be canceled if you arrive late unless you let the rental company know that your flight is delayed.
Hotel Overview
Puerto Limon primarily offers budget accommodations, many of a questionable standard. Many such hotels are not the cleanest, and security may be an issue. One of the best budget options is Hotel Continental (phone 798-0532), which is well-kept. The city's best hotel is the Hotel Park (phone 758-3476), with ocean views and one of the nicest restaurants in town.
Many of the accommodations outside of the cities are geared to the ecotourist, but that doesn't necessarily mean they're rustic. Accommodations range from safari-style tent camps to nature lodges in the forest to tropical beach resorts that provide sportfishing and other marine activities. Many of these are small-scale operations with fewer than 40 units, concentrated around Tortuguero National Park. They're more compatible with the local environment than large-scale resorts and provide a more intimate and meaningful experience for travelers. We recommend using tour operators and hotels that actively support conservation efforts: Look for the CST icon, which indicates the Certificate of Sustainable Tourism. This will help protect the local ecology and promote sensible development.
The Barra del Colorado area has dedicated sportfishing lodges. Cahuita and Puerto Viejo also offer a spa and yoga retreat, plus a few charming upscale boutique hotels for the connoisseur of fine decor and dining.
At budget properties, rooms of different quality may be offered at the same price. Before checking in, ask to see the room (some of the cheaper places can get pretty bad) and don't be shy about asking for a better one. Accommodations can be difficult to get December-March, especially at Christmas and Easter, so book well in advance.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: Canadians and citizens of the U.K. and U.S. need passports but not visas. Australians may enter with a passport only for visits up to 30 days (which may be extended locally). Proof of sufficient funds and onward passage are also required. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.
Population: 56,719.
Languages: Spanish.
Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).
Time Zone: 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-6 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.
Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.
Currency Exchange
Costa Rica's currency is the colon, divided into 100 centavos. The U.S. dollar is accepted as legal currency throughout the country. The colon has been gradually and steadily losing value for years.
Banks in Puerto Limon can change U.S. dollars, which are also accepted by most stores and merchants. Most banks have ATMs where you can use your debit and credit cards to withdraw cash. Use vigilance when using ATMs. Ideally do so in the company of a trusted friend and during daylight hours. Traveler's checks are rarely accepted. Never change money on the street—not only is it illegal, but the chance of being ripped off is great.
Taxes
Most tourist hotels apply a 16.8% government tax. Check to see whether this is included in quoted rates. Small budget hotels are usually excepted. A US$26 passenger departure tax is usually included in cruise fares.
Weather
Costa Rica's Caribbean coast has its own unique microclimate. Tradewinds keep the weather hot and humid most of the year, and short but heavy rainfall occurs often.
What to Wear
Dress in Costa Rica is conservatively casual. You'll feel comfortable during the day in casual sports clothes, but in a good restaurant at night you should adhere to local customs. In Puerto Limon, men wear collared shirts and slacks for business meetings and women wear skirts or dresses, though young adults are prone to adopt a sexier look, with skin-tight jeans de rigueur for women and a hip-hop-inspired look for young men. Away from the city, most local inhabitants are relatively poor. Men typically may wear only shorts to beat the heat, although women always dress conservatively. Bathing suits and short shorts are for the beach or river rafting and shouldn't be worn elsewhere.
Hikers should wear comfortable shoes or sneakers (which will most likely get muddy) or lightweight hiking boots, along with lightweight pants and long-sleeved shirts to guard against thorns and biting insects. Take along a hat, not only as protection against the sun, but to keep leaves and other rain-forest debris out of your hair. Carry a light raincoat or poncho in wet season (and stick a couple of plastic bags in your pocket to protect your camera). We also recommend a change of socks (especially on long day tours) to prevent blisters. Neutral earth tones will help you blend in with the wilderness environment to enhance wildlife viewing.
Telephone
Costa Rica's phone service is very good. International calls can be made from any pay phone, which are found throughout the streets of Puerto Limon. Some pay phones accept coins, but most are now designed for use with prepaid phone cards, available at post offices and many shops. All local numbers have seven digits, and no additional area codes are necessary. (Dial just the seven-digit local number, even if you're calling another town.) Dial 0 before all toll-free 800 numbers.
Dial 114 for access to international direct-dial service and 116 for an English-language operator-assisted call. Dial 113 for local directory assistance, or 124 for international directory assistance. Canadians can reach a Canadian telephone operator by dialing 0-800-015-1161.
Internet Access
You shouldn't have any trouble finding an Internet cafe or other place to check your e-mail in Puerto Limon or Cahuita. Your hotel may offer e-mail service, and you can buy time on a few computers at the main post office. Internet cafes come and go at lightning speed, however. One of the well-established options in town is Multiconnect Internet Cafe on Avenida 4, Calles 2/3. Phone 758-1141.
Mail & Package Services
The main branch of the post office sells stamps and provides parcel post. There are rental computers available for Internet access, too. Monday-Friday 8 am-5 pm, Saturday 8 am-noon. Calle 4 at the corner of Avenida 2, Puerto Limon.
Newspapers & Magazines
The country's leading daily Spanish-language newspaper is
La Nacion, which publishes a weekly entertainment section on Thursday. The weekly English-language paper,
The Tico Times, comes out on Friday and does an excellent job of covering national news. Its weekend section has extensive listings on cultural events and entertainment. U.S. newspapers, including
USA Today and
The Wall Street Journal, are available at larger gift shops.
Transportation
Getting to Puerto Limon is relatively easy following the 2006 opening of an airport immediately south of town. It offers frequent links from San Jose to Puerto Limon and to destinations farther south. However, access to Tortuguero and Barra del Colorad is limited to small planes and water taxis.
The town of Puerto Limon is sufficiently small that you can walk virtually everywhere, although taxis are required to get to nearby Playa Bonita.
If you plan to head out of town, we recommend that you take a private or group tour from one of the companies offering trips to the country's parks and preserves, or hire a private taxi.
Public Transportation
Costa Rica also has a good intercity bus system for those interested in exploring on their own. Transported MEPE (phone 257-8129) buses operate four times daily from San Jose's Grand Terminal del Caribe. Additional buses pass through Puerto Limon en route to Cahuita and Puerto Viejo. Buses for San Jose depart from Calle 2, Avenida 2, in Puerto Limon.
Bus schedules are available at Costa Rica Tourism Institute offices in San Jose. Avenida 4, San Jose. Phone 223-1733.
Taxi
Within Puerto Limon, taxis provide the most reliable transportation for visitors. Make sure you only get into official taxis, which are the small red cars with a white or yellow sign. Cabs are commonly available and inexpensive, but make sure the meter is set when you enter the vehicle. Some drivers may claim that their meter is broken, but generally this is a scam. Nonetheless, if this happens to you, make sure to set the fare before beginning your trip—destinations within downtown should cost less than 2,225 CRC. Invariably, taxi drivers will inflate their rates for tourists—sometimes by two or three times the legal fare. Ask your cruise director or hotel concierge for the appropriate fare before hailing a cab. Drivers are usually amenable to serving as private tour guides, but settle on a price beforehand.
Calendar
Every September, the town comes alive for the Black Culture Festival, which celebrates Afro-Caribbean culture with music, dance and even dominoes. Puerto Limon also hosts the nation's biggest festival—Carnival—every mid-October. This Mardi Gras-style party draws as many as 100,000 spectators for a bacchanal featuring live calypso bands, beauty contests and floats. Watch out for pickpockets and drunks.
