Spreading downhill toward the river from Castelo de Sao Jorge, the Alfama evokes medieval Lisbon. This old Arab neighborhood is one of the most attractive parts of the city—we love to walk its narrow streets, peeking into its many alleys, courtyards and traditional shops. If you're lucky, you'll end up discovering an arraial, a spontaneous party in the middle of the street. On 13 and 24 June, the streets are full of people enjoying grilled sardines, wine and music. The party on 13 June is a neighborhood affair, but the one on 24 June is a citywide event in which groups representing different neighborhoods parade along Avenida Liberdade in costumes and perform traditional dances. The group from Alfama parades first through its own neighborhood, and then everyone follows it to the main event on Avenida Liberdade.