Although its population is primarily ethnic Chinese, Macau—because it was a Portuguese territory for so long—has a distinctly Mediterranean flavor: a languorous pace; balconied, pastel buildings; and open
pracas, or squares. Over the years it has maintained a downright raffish atmosphere, complete with warring gangsters.
Its character could change, however: After centuries of administration by Portugal, Macau was returned to Chinese sovereignty in 1999. China has promised 50 years of noninterference in Macau's economic and social systems—but given the mercurial nature of the government in Beijing, all bets are off.
For now, though, Macau is a wonderful place to stroll: If you're feeling energetic, you could walk to almost all of its sights in a day—it covers only 11 sq mi/28 sq km. We loved the feel of the hilly, winding streets and back alleyways. (Although the European-style architecture and plazas are unusual for this part of the world, you could never confuse Macau for Lisbon.)
The most famous landmark is the Church of Sao Paulo (circa 1600). All that remains is the facade—the rest of the church was destroyed by fire in 1835—but it's worth climbing an imposing set of stairs to view the ruins up close, especially at night when you can see the lights of the city below. Farther up another set of stairs is the Citadel of Sao Paulo do Monte, where you can still see the cannon that helped repel the Dutch invasion of 1622. The view of the city and countryside is fantastic.
Once you're back in the city, visit the Temple of Kun Iam—we think it's the most impressive religious shrine in Macau. We especially liked the miniature tree that was pruned into the shape of the Chinese character for long life, the bas-relief of a god creating wind and the statue with the round, bulging eyes (said to be Marco Polo).
Offshore are two islands. Taipa, which is linked to Macau by a dramatic bridge, offers a chance to visit small fishing villages, a horse-racing track (the Macau Jockey Club) and a fascinating Chinese cemetery (the burial sites are carved out of the side of a cliff and face the sea). The Taipa Folk Museum depicts the life of the early Portuguese settlers. Across the causeway from Taipa is Coloane, whose main sites are the Chapel of St. Francis Xavier, a 16th-century missionary (his arm is in a reliquary there), and two popular beaches, Cheoc Van and Hac Sa.
Macau has long been a gambler's destination of choice, and in recent years, world-famous casinos such as the Sands have opened huge venues there. In fact, the total gambling revenue for Macau in 2004 was higher than Las Vegas. It is now clear that Macau is slated to become the gambling destination of choice in the world.
On weekends and holidays, Macau is filled to capacity with Hong Kong residents, who go for the gambling and the slower, more relaxed pace of life. So we highly recommend that you visit during the week. Macau is about 35 mi/60 km west of Hong Kong.
Weather
Macau has a tropical climate with hot, humid summers (April-September) that can reach temperatures of 95 F/35 C. Winter is short, January-March. Heavy rains June-September make summer a less desirable time to visit. Clear, sunny days make October-November the best time to visit.
