Landlocked Mali is the largest country in West Africa. It is geographically dominated by the Niger River (from ghir nigheren, river of rivers), which provides irrigation for much of the country. Desert and rugged hills characterize the Saharan north, and the Sahara itself is moving south at quite a clip. Whole villages and towns have been swallowed up by sand. Desert gives way to the Sahel (arid, flat plains with scrub brush) in the center and marginal cropland in the south—only in the extreme south is there sufficient rain for crops. About 80% of the land is desert or semidesert and only 2% is arable.
For centuries it was a crossroads: Caravans crisscrossed the region during the days of the ancient kingdoms of Ghana, Mali and Songhai. Slaves, gold and ivory were brought from the south and traded in the Middle East and Europe for weapons, jewelry and salt. Mali drew people from all corners of the globe, and the city of Timbuktu was a center of learning, with a university that boasted 25,000 students. When merchant ships replaced the caravans in the 17th century, the trade routes collapsed and the region was forgotten (except, perhaps, for Timbuktu, which became synonymous with remoteness). Only recently have archaeologists begun to explore Mali's rich history.
Intensive European involvement in Mali's affairs began about 100 years ago, when it became a French colony. The colonists encouraged the raising of cash crops, such as cotton, at the expense of food crops, a situation not wholly rectified today. After gaining independence in 1960, Mali adopted socialist, anti-Western policies. Increasing economic turmoil, however, led to a 1968 military coup. The military ruled until March 1991, when riots toppled the government. Mali then switched to a half-military, half-civilian government, which lasted until elections could be held in 1992. To the pleasant surprise of many, the military stepped down and allowed former editor and government critic Alpha Konare to take his place as Mali's first democratically elected president. Konare and his supporters won again in 1997, but an opposition alliance boycotted the polls and refused to recognize the results.
Konare, however, won international praise for his efforts to revive Mali's failing economy. His adherence to International Monetary Fund guidelines increased foreign investment and helped make Mali the second-largest cotton producer in Africa. After serving two five-year terms as president, Konare retired and was subsequently appointed head of the African Union.
In June 2002, Amadou Toumani Toure, a former army officer who engineered the 1991 coup that freed the country from military rule, was elected president. In 2004, he then appointed Ousmane Issoufi Maiga as the new prime minister.
Mali's foremost attractions are fascinating tribal life, markets, the Dogon Escarpment, a unique form of Islam, beautiful mosques, Timbuktu, camel rides and the beauty of the Sahara.
The country will appeal to adventurous travelers who appreciate African cultures, enjoy desert landscapes, are interested in non-Western architecture and are comfortable traveling to places where little English is spoken. Expect a certain amount of inconvenience, heat and somewhat dirty conditions.
Foosball is a popular game in Mali. You'll see outdoor tables set up in even the smallest villages.
Many buildings in the country are made of mud. When it rains, which isn't often in some areas, the structures are hand-repaired with fresh mud.
The nomadic Tuaregs are sometimes referred to as "the Blue People of the Desert." Their traditionally indigo-colored robes color their skin over time.
Spitting is fairly common in Mali, particularly during the month of Ramadan. We were told that the spitters were showing what devout Muslims they are by refusing to swallow anything during the daylight hours of Ramadan—including their own saliva. Luckily for us, they seemed to have good aim and no animosity toward foreigners.
Animal names are popular in Mali. The country's name means hippo in the Bambara language, and the capital's name is derived from the word for crocodile.
You can find traditional water coolers made from complete goat skins for sale at markets. They're filled with water and hung from trees to cool by evaporation (though it does leave a bit of a goaty taste).
Bamako's excellent and air-conditioned museum has a world-class electricity bill as well—it's equal to the rest of the museum's entire budget.
Tuareg men don't feel completely dressed without their turbans, a 33-ft/10-m strip of cloth that covers the head, leaving only the eyes exposed to the burning sun and blowing sand of the desert.
Malians are among those who chew cola nuts. It's a very sloppy habit (you'll see what we mean when you get there), but give it a try if you need a caffeine hit. It doesn't taste at all like cola drinks (be sure to wash the nut first with clean water).
Young boys begging for food with gourd bowls are Koranic students, fulfilling part of their religious training.
Television is government controlled, but CNN and several French channels can be viewed in the top hotels.
In mid-2005, a locust plague and drought threatened around 10% of the population with starvation.
