In the days of the Amazon rubber boom (before the invention of synthetic rubber), Manaus was known as the Paris of the Jungle. Apart from some splendid colonial buildings and the magnificent Teatro Amazonas, an opulent 19th-century opera house whose materials (Italian marble, Scottish wrought iron, Murano glass) were shipped over from Europe, most vestiges of those glory days are long gone. Today's Manaus is a somewhat chaotic and ramshackle place, although it also has an exotic feel to it.
Most importantly, Manaus serves as a base for tourist excursions exploring the mid-Amazon region. Day trips can be made by riverboat to visit villages built on stilts or to hike through the jungle on foot. Several jungle lodges in the vicinity offer a wide variety of rain-forest programs. When cruising down the river about 12 mi/20 km from town, watch for the "Meeting of the Waters," where the dark, muddy waters of the Rio Negro begin to merge with the light, yellowish waters of the Rio Solimoes to become the mighty Amazon. Adventurous travelers might consider long-distance river journeys to or from Belem (though to be honest, we were bored out of our gourds after three days on the river).
The city itself, though rather dirty, is worth exploring. Despite the fact that it's 1,000 mi/1,600 km inland, huge oceangoing ships dock there to distribute their cargo throughout the Amazon basin, and it's fascinating to watch them unload. Amazon wildlife can be easily seen at the CIGS zoo, and the Municipal Market on the river is colorful and lively, with plenty of indigenous crafts, herbs and medicines—try to visit when fishermen arrive and unload their catch.
Stay clear of the port area—and Praca da Matriz—after dark. Also be wary of strangers offering jungle tours, particularly at the airport, bus stations or hotel districts. Make tour arrangements ahead of time or through the city's official tourist office. Plan two nights in Manaus. 1,200 mi/1,930 km northwest of Brasilia.
