For breakfast near the Zocalo, this stately, colonial restaurant is highly recommended. Diners can enjoy freshly baked pastries and some of Mexico's best hot chocolate, as well as enchiladas and varied egg dishes. It tends to fill up quickly on weekends—plan to arrive early. Later in the day, El Cardenal serves hearty, traditional Mexican fare. A second branch is located inside the Sheraton Centro Historico Hotel, across from the Alameda at Juarez 70, Col. Centro (phone 5518-6632). Daily 7 am-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Palma 23, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5521-8815, or 5518-6632 for El Cardenal at Sheraton Centro Historico Hotel.