Lively son jarocho groups play traditional Veracruz music that keeps folks tapping their feet as heaping platters of huachinango a la Veracruzana (red snapper, Veracruz-style) emerge from the kitchen. Squid, crab and lobster dishes, plus smooth-but-lethal toritos—tequila mixed with exotic fruit juices—have made this a popular tourist destination. Monday-Friday 1 am-midnight, Saturday 9 am-midnight, Sunday 9 am-8 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Bahia de las Palmas 37, Col. Veronica Anzures, Mexico City. Phone 9112-7476. http://www.fondadelrecuerdo.com.